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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2015 in Posts

  1. 16 points
    Ok, I gave this some thought, and I'm going to do a drastic suggestion; first of all, thank you Sander, thank you "TheDeugd" and thank you to the rest of Ultimaker who tried to improve a forum. I understand the way you wanted to go. Sort of an interactive FAQ, a place where makers and builders and designers and users could find each other, to communicate, to suggest ideas and to work together. so far, some things are great, some things are not. the path you have chosen, to take a real forum offline, to wait for a week, then bring something partially back online (still missing access to PM's and access to portions of the old forum), collect feedback while live and improve on the go, is not one that works for me. I thought the old forums where bad. the search sucked, in Internet Explorer, half of it simply did not work, some portions misbehaved but overall, it worked. it was an experience that could be improved. instead of improving, you've chosen a path of change. Remember the old saying.. change is good as long as everything stays the same.. You could have moved to new software while keeping the old look and feel then making improvements. A path that is very common amongst many companies and very successful. You choose differently. Once again, I certainly don't want to sound ungrateful, but I have a very simple but drastic suggestion: Please host a "real" forum. buy Vbulletin. buy any software. use open-source I don't really care as long as it's something trialed and proven. Give your community what it wants.. give the people bread and games. keep this and keep improving it. once it's done, and this is not an overnight fix I suppose, then start integrating things. For me, this is not working. Looking through the community I am not the only one. I have to go through a lot of effort to help other people. for free. I have to login every single time. I have to wiggle my way through the weird interactions. I can't really attach pictures without a lot of pain. I feel that halfway through a reply when something doesn't do what I expect it to do I just close the window thinking "oh fuck it". Honestly, I hope it's just me. I hope all the other people that were helping out feel very different than I do and they love this new interface and new forum. If not, more people will start closing windows. Í'll check back in a month or so if I feel more at home till then, I'll just be a vagrant
  2. 14 points
    Hey guys, thanks to the talented 3dlabprint.com team I was able to print my first rc plane on my UM2... It flies absolutely brilliantly! Challenging but fun print!
  3. 12 points
    A small update, we are doing a lot (A LOT) of testing to optimize every single part, from print time to assembly to tutorial videos. Is quite a lot of work, but so far we are on a really good point print quality. Ofc like any beta testing we found stuff to improve. Right now we have 3 versions and we are testing every single part as much as we can. Basically from the first design to the new we had 5 versions, and atm the last 3 versions are under stress testing. Also please, if someone has a REALLY difficult print, something that requieres finesse and precision, I would like to print it and test it to see if there's any weak point. Ofc if someone want to share it with me and keep the files form being public that's ok too. I would really like have an architecture file or something really challenging apart of voronoi and very thin walls. Also after talking to @bondtech and we just got 2 ideas that could be really interesting for the guys like us that want as much precision as possible from the extrusion, up to the decimal points of estep calibration for each kind of filament. Very interesting stuff, we will publish more when we have more tests of this ideas.
  4. 10 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  5. 10 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  6. 10 points
    Update 2015-04-12: - The heater block can be ordered here: http://www.3dsolex.com - Further information about ordering and installing the custom heater block can be found in this post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=95991 - Some more things to keep in mind when installing the custom heater block: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=89581 Hi! I have printed some very abrasive home-made filament lately which eats my expensive UM2 nozzle a bit too quickly... :shock: Removing the nozzle also feels like an accident waiting to happen. I particularly dislike the fixing screw for the sensor and the heater. In fact, at one of my heater blocks the screw does not even fix the heater. The heater still stays there since it is pushed in by the cable, but I don't see that as good way of fixing it. So lately I have been putting some effort in finding a better design. I looked around for nozzles and the smallest suitable one I found was the E3D-V6. Based on the design of the original heater block I made a slightly stretched version with a modified way of fixing the heater and the sensor. Here is the result: :smile: Some of the dimensions were a bit off and I only just started testing it, but it looks fine so far and I think this could potentially be a way forward. At least for me it would be a major improvement if this works smoothly.
  7. 9 points
    You, sir, are a coward. You rant and rave here, link us to your additional ranting and raving blog...and delete Nallath's well-crafted reply/comment on it. You like to make a lot of noise but can't stomach a response. Grow up.
  8. 9 points
  9. 9 points
    Here's some prototype models we did in the FDG office. Each piece is 2"x2":
  10. 9 points
    I'm not sure if you want the feedback to the new forum in one big collection topic, or separate issues in separate topics, but here goes. When scrolling through a long thread, the Ultimaker top bar popping over and disappearing every time you scroll up or down gets annoying real quick. It is also extremely large on say a wxga laptop screen, obfuscating a sizable chunk of the message body display.
  11. 8 points
    Big announcement! [German version] [French version] [spanish version] Hold on to your seats. It is not every week I can make an announcement of this magnitude. In a few weeks time Ultimaker will migrate its forum to a new forum software, provided by IPboard. For some it may be a surprise, for others it may be a decision overdue. Nonetheless we are happy and confident that this is the best decision we could make to provide a healthy environment for our community and ensure a bright future. We are aiming to migrate mid-December and do the complete the migration in ~3 days. Some parts of the preparation are still in progress, so the exact date may change (if it would get too close to the holidays, we might decide to do it early January instead). In any case, we wanted to share this prospect with you ahead of time. Make sure to like or follow this topic, so you will be kept up to date about possible changes and there will be no unpleasant surprises. Migrating means there will be a period of time that the forum will unavailable for contributions. In order to migrate all content, we have to close it down, bundle everything and deploy it in our new environment. We are looking into keeping the forum available for searching but no new posts can be made. Or perhaps have a designated chatroom available to bridge this period. Obviously we try to mimic the existing forum as much as possible for a smooth transition, however it is inevitable some things will work and look a little bit different. We’ll do our best to make the introduction as easy as possible. Why IPboard? A little while back I invited some of the most active members of our community and Ultimaker to help test different types of forum software. Among others we tested vBulletin, phpBB, IPboard and we looked into Vanilla and Discourse. After some thorough testing it was pretty clear that IPboard won the comparison with a landslide. Why migrate to a new forum? There are a few different reasons why we think it is a good move to migrate to a new forum. For starters, there have been some bugs haunting the forums which have proven difficult to fix. Some of these bugs have been more intense than others, regardless, they boiled to a point where they (could) harm the user experience significantly. Obviously, that is the last thing anyone would ever want. Secondly, when we moved to our existing forum we had big ambitions to build a collaborative forum where users would gather and ignite projects together. For example, in the user tab you could look for users with certain skill set, to potentially invite to your project and many interesting projects would surface from our community. And indeed some have, the Mark 2 project being one of my favorite community projects. But we don’t feel that vision still matches with our community, with knowledge increasingly becoming more important. The Ultimaker 3D printers becoming more advanced, a better ‘out of the box’ experience will take over a lot of the questions originally asked in our community. At the same time, that is where it gets interesting! After the ‘out of the box’ experience and your first handful of prints, you want to go and explore what you can really do with 3D printing and the Ultimaker ecosystem. And that is where the community shines. We have so many product experts in our community, it is unbelievable. That is also where we want to focus on in the upcoming era, educating our community further. Of course, we need a healthy, cooperative and supporting software environment to do this in, so the migration is step 1. If there is anything you want to learn from us, make sure to let me know! Can be about CAD modeling, post-processing, materials. But more about this, in our new forum As always I’m curious to hear what you think. Make sure to follow this thread so you will be kept up to date when things get more clear further down the road.
  12. 8 points
    Option of a bigger build volume. New silent step control board with more smarts. Closed-loop stepper-motor control with step-loss compensation. Light weight direct drive. 5 extruders, system like the mark 2 with ability to have other attachments other then filament extruders. Enclosed with temp control. Smart filament sensor that can compensate drive slippage, detect run out etc. Failed print camera detection also to detect if head is out of position if a pulley has slipped. Failed print recovery. Auto part removal for production runs. Stiffer bed on ball screws. Light weight stiff gantry. Touch screen with a ton of options for adjusting on the fly or customising printer setup manually. (Options were less on um3 compared to um2 where it should have been more like tinkerware.) Nozzle tip cleaner on material change With ability to set tip clean intervals for single extruder prints. Hot swap spool changer for filament run out. Phone notifications on printer status. Probably missed a few things because I just woke up. And make all this cheap enough so i can afford a print wall .
  13. 8 points
    I've been meaning to do this for a while, but I finally got around to posting the CAD files & assembly instructions to my bag and wallet on YouMagine. The little hinges are printed in place. If you use a heated glass bed (like on Ultimaker 2 or 2+), you can achieve a glossy candy-shell finish. The clasps are magnetic, so they snap shut and open without the need for fumbling to find buttons or zippers. Files & Instructions: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mixee-wallet and https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mixee-bag Photos
  14. 8 points
    As you might have noticed, I have sadly given up this forum long time ago. It is still, after almost ten months online, unacceptably slow to navigate compared to all other forum softwares and full of annoying bugs. I just can not take this kind of stupidity, that is why I am not active anymore. And I am seriously worried that the mentality that keeps this software alive might bring Ultimaker as a company down in the end. The whole idea if inventing the wheel again in this way is very difficult to understand for me. If the new forum had obvious advantages over all other common forum softwares it would be one thing, but I fail to see any advantages at all actually? As I mentioned in another post, the post counter is not working properly anymore, but I reckon that we still see about 40% of the posts that the old forum had last year at this time. Considering that Ultimaker probably sold a five digit number of printers or so since then, I would say the figures are alarming. This also brings up a very serious issue: Many people, including me, paid a lot extra to get the Ultimaker in favor of other brands just because of the (old) forum. The fact that Ultimaker ruined that means serious badwill for Ultimaker as a company. So why is Ultimaker not doing anything about this? Most likely because: 1. Too much money was spent on this project, so it simply can not fail (a bit like a certain fighter jet project). 2. Ultimaker is scattered as a company and the board is disconnected from the community section, not realizing the value of the community. 3. There are still enough users that whoever defends the forum can claim that it is just a temporary drop and that it will soon recover, that all questions has been answered, and such excuses. I would also say that the mentality that "we will never consider vbulletin" is very worrying. That goes against the open source community concept that Ultimaker used to stand for. I personally think it would be reasonable to let the community be part of selecting the forum software, as the community members largely works completely for free for Ultimaker when they post here. Forcing them to use software that does not work properly when they are trying to help other users for free is a very risky move in the long run. I am actually a bit surprised that no one has started an independent Ultimaker forum yet, I would have moved there immediately. So what can one do, apart from starting another forum? Well, the forums it its users, so I guess that if everyone just stopped using the forum until it runs on properly working software we could have it back on vbulletin in a few months..
  15. 8 points
    In my life I have many questions. Are we alone in the universe ? My wife loves me ? after oil , what new energy ? Why my son is like the postman ? The earth is round ? There is another man in the life of my wife ? The Postman ? But today I have only one question in mind : What is this " 8)" ? After many investigations and research , here is my conclusion. it's the smiley " black mamba " ! Now, I have 3 questions to the designer : When to use this smiley ? Do you take drugs ? You know my wife ? ++
  16. 7 points
    Hello tout le monde, Je vous présente la mascotte que j'ai modélisé sous ZBrush pour la futur B-Velta, une imprimante de type delta Made in France, qui sera en kickstarter dans les prochains jours. Le gcode du modèle sera intégré directement dans la bécane. La modélisation a été pensée pour que la figurine s'imprime sans supports biensûr Hauteur totale -> 180mm Buse -> 0.6 Hauteur des couches -> 200µm Remplissage -> 20% 2 impressions pour voir la différences des détails : Colorfabb ngen silver metallic et Octofiber Light Wood Pour ceux que ça intéresse, voici le lien de la page de la b-velta -> https://www.facebook.com/BVELTA
  17. 7 points
    Next to our successful Ultimaker 2 family, another dynasty will be added shortly. Just a few more days until we can really get to know it, but we figured we could already start showing what it can do. In the next few days I will update this thread with some new shots and video's that reveal something. We feel this machine is a great fit for the industries where there is a need to print even more complex things than what was ever possible before. The next era of 3D printing is about to land, make sure you have a front row seat video 1 video 2 video 3 video 4 If you have watched and inspected our video's closely, but you are still eager for more, join us while we make a trip down to memory-lane. See what the last 5 years have done for Ultimaker. 'It all started with a RepRap project that served as a true inspiration for many creative thinkers, among them 3 fellas with a bright future ahead of them...'
  18. 7 points
    Voila le mien Il est plutot grand (environ 50cm de long) imprimé sur Ultimaker 2, Extended et Go. Je ne sais plus combien d'heures en tout, je dirais pas loin de 100h
  19. 7 points
    It's been very wintery here too I got yelled at for using alternate transportation
  20. 7 points
    Hi, ich habe noch ein weiteren Dual Druck hinter mir. Einstellungen: Layer 0.10mm Temp 240°C Speed 40mm/s Material ABS Druckzeit 20h 31min Und anschließend noch mit Aceton Damp behandelt. Ich wurde jetzt schon öfters gefragt, wie ich meine WaKü umgesetzt habe. Damit ich nicht jedem einzeln das Erklären muss, hier ein paar Fotos mit einer Erklärung. Durch den linken Anschluss Strömt das Wasser rein, bis 3mm vor an die Kante zwischen den Düsen und wieder zurück zum Rechten Anschluss. Die Zwischenplatte wird zweimal vom Wasser umströmt um die Kühlleistung zu erhöhen, der Deckel unten und oben ist bis auf 0.50mm Dicke ausgefräßt, um die Entkopplung der zwei Düsen herzustellen. Der Ausgleichbehälter und Radiator wird noch unterm Ultimaker verschwinden. Den Strom wird das Ulti Board liefern, dazu habe ich mir einen DC-DC Wandler für 3€ auf eBay gekauft der die 24V Spannung auf 12v reduziert. Ich werde meinen zweiten Ultimaker 2 auch damit aufrüsten, dann werde ich Bilder vom Innenleben der WaKü machen und Posten. Bei Fragen oder Kritik, nur her damit! Gruß Marin Mihatov
  21. 6 points
    TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO SAY ACETONE DOES NOTHING TO ALL BRANDS OF PLA.....YOU ARE WRONG. LIKE TOTALLY WRONG. THIS NOW APPLIES TO COLORFABB NON SPECIALITY FILAMENT ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (as i have not tried speciality filaments.) If anyone from colorfabb wants to send me some samples id be happy to try them out, ;)lol. (EDIT: UM BRAND PLA NO LONGER SMOOTHS due to changes in their manufacturing process) Just to let you know. The red one below is Colorfabb BTW and so is the black t-rex beneath that. And that still should work, im getting more new filament soon so ill kee you updated if it also changes. But seeing as they still add pha to it i think it should be fine. UM no longer does and i think that is the reason. I do need to say this also probably wont work with cheap brands of PLA from what i've heard, due to the lack of dissolvable plastics in the PLA like HIPS/ABS/PHA which seems to be present in the PLA I use which is Colorfabb and Ultimaker Brand (my favourite). Just thought I'd add that note in case it doesn't work for you as we all know that (from a chemical point of view) PLA is not affected by acetone, but to improve the composition and printability of PLA many manufacturers add stuff to it which makes it smoothable (which is great) ! ( just need to say this as some smart arses alway tell me that PLA is traditionally not dissolvable in acetone as we all know by now. ) well i'm just telling you that I found two brands that do smooth, and i'm not bothered about the percentage of PLA in those filaments or the fact that its not 'PURE' PLA which some people seem to find so damn important, but I find the smooth-ability of it far more impotant so save all those other arguments for someone who cares. If its smoother prints you want, then read on......If you only want to use 'PURE' PLA for whatever weird reason you choose other than cost (which is a big factor I admit) then this thread is NOT for you. As from what I've read PLA blends tend to be slightly more expensive that Pure PLA, but they tend to be strionger, print better, and.......smooooth unlike pure PLA. But it IS still PLA so all you blend haters can just carry on hating what i'm lovin'. Old thread below, go to end for more recent stuff. ****PLEASE NOTE THAT I DO THINGS DIFFERENTLY NOW AND DO NOT POUR 2 LITRES OF ACETONE INTO A VAT. THE ONLY REASON I DID IT HERE WAS THAT I HAD NO OTHER CONTAINERS THAT THE HEAD WOULD FIT INSIDE AND IT WAS THE FIRST ATTEMPT I DID ON A HIGH DETAIL MODEL AND I WAS EXPERIMENTING SO YOU DONT HAVE TO! FOR SMALL MODELS YOU CAN JUST POP SOME ACETONE INTO A MUG OR GLASS, TAKE IT OUTSIDE AND DIP IT THERE, SO YOU OR YOUR HANDS NEVER REALLY COME INTO CONTACT WITH ACETONE, MAKING IT VERY SAFE.**** OK, Guys first post here, and after finding that my abs parts were breaking a lot i switched to black PLA from Colourfab the regular one 2,85 mm. After reading all the abs acetone business i still found the vapour cloud too random and thick at the bottom and thin at the top so gave up after many failed attempts. PLA However i noticed that if you print at 0.06 (or higher i guess, i didnt go bove 0.06) then the acetone just eats away enough for it to smooth any casual sanding and even most of the printing lines. Here is a quick vid i made sorry for and bad language, its just the way i speak. Good luck, no need for any other nasty chemicals! unless you're in a hurry, lol. the big head took 33Hrs to print btw.
  22. 6 points
  23. 6 points
    Hi, I have created this thread to keep an overview on which materials are available through Cura as part of our Material Alliance. We can add a short description of each material so you have at least a basic idea of its properties. Do realize this is a summary, if you want to know specific properties please visit each filament specific technical data sheet. I'll also include a link to each individual thread, in case you want to discuss a material specifically. Questions? Feel free to post them below! This thread will be updated over time. BASF - PET CF. Carbon fiber, high dimensional stability, low moisture absorption, heat-resistant of 74ºC - PP GF30 . Glass fiber (30%), extreme stiffness, chemical resistance. Clariant - Clariant PA6/66 FR. Flame retardant. - Clariant PA6/66 GF20 FR . Glass Fiber (20%), flame retardant. - Clariant Pet-G. Chemical resistance, good layer adhesion, heat-resistant ~80ºC. Colorfabb - Color On Demand, PLA in 100+ RAL colors at 2kg MOQ. - woodFill , 70% PLA and 30% wood provides a wood-like texture DSM - Arnitel ID 2045 . ShoreD 34 hardness, flexible TPC. - Arnitel ID 2060 HT . High performance TPC, high temperature, chemical resistance. - Novamid ID1030 CF10 PA6/66. Carbon fibers (10%). Dupont - Zytel 3D1000FL. Ultralow shrinkage. - Hytrel 3D41000FL, shoreD 60 hardness. Eastman - Amphora AM3300. Low-odor, styrene-free material. ElogioAM - Facilan C8 . 3D print almost without layers, good interlayer bonding. Igus GmbH - Iglidur I150 . Self-lubricating, wear resistant. - Iglidur I180. Self-lubricating, wear resistant. Lehvoss - Luvocom 3F PAHT 9825 NT. Unreinforced PAHT, low warping. Matterhackers - NylonG . Glass fiber (~20%). - NylonX. Carbon fiber (~20%). Owens Corning - XSTRAND GF30 PP . Glass fiber (30%). - XSTRAND GF30 PA6 . Glass fiber (30%).
  24. 6 points
    Non c'est bien un raft. les lignes ne sont pas concentriques. Peut être une astuce de possesseur d'UM3 --> ils font un raft en filament soluble et à la fin de l'impression ils mettent l'imprimante toute entière dans l'eau . Comme ça le print se décolle tout seul
  25. 6 points
    Since some time I am working on printing logos and badges with more than two colors and only one hotend. This is the result: Printed on an UM1 with a heated bed (works on blue tape as well) Maybe some of you want to try simple multicolor prints, too. So, this is how I do it: First split your CAD model according to the colors. E.g. one STL for blue, one for red, one for white and so on. The models for each color should be 0.2mm heigh. Only the last color you will print can be as high as you want. Slice them and then print the first color: Do not remove the result from your bed! I am using these settings: Layer height: 0.1mm Retraction: on Z-Hop on retraction: 0.3mm Fill: 100% Initial layer thickness: 0 No skirt, brim or raft As the model ist only 0.2mm high two layers will be printed. Print the next color and use the same setting as for the first color. Like the first print only two layers will be printed. If you are using more than three colors, just repeat this step. White is my last color. It covers up all other colors. This can be as high as you want. Mine is 1.5mm These are the settings for the last color: Layer height: 0.15mm (what you like) Retraction: on Z-Hop on retraction: 0.075mm Fill: 100% (what you like) Initial layer thickness: 0.3 You may use a skirt If everything went right this might be the result: It is not perfect - my nozzle is still leaking black ABS from an earlier print. But it is good enough to decorate my toolbox. Just some more multicolor prints - try it, it's fun!
  26. 6 points
    Sorry guys, I think there will be no sensefull outcome of this discussion (and a few other discussions in the forum) any more... I just will add now my two cents to get my frustration out of my mind, and then will stop thinking about (hopefully)... Sure, parts can be sources somewhere around the world, hacked together by somebody with 2 cents hourly rate and - of couse far below 12 years old... Nevertheless, something called "inventive work" has also it´s right and know how is expensive - and those who don´t have it pay for it... that´s the world guys... So I try to put simple: the guys from Ultimaker had the effort of development, putting hours of their employees into something inventive - and of course, they need to get paied for it... and then, of course every bit and byte - and spare part - need to have a price tag PLUS some overhead cost which enables them to go forward and pay their bills and develop something new on top... Honestly - buy cheap stuff somewhere in China or elsewhere - best something your local metal workers, farmers or textile manufactors or - better - the company you work for is producing. At least you will loose your jobs as nobody will buy something "expensive" from you and your company has to close down... And this is the reason why the prices from UM are ok... because they have the KNOW HOW and the ABILITY and the WILL to engineer their great stuff in The Netherlands (and hopefully pay their guys very good as earn it...)... So finally, I also think that a UM3 upgrade kit would cost a lot and need a lot of effort to implement it correctly (CE certified, safe, monkeyproof) and that´s the reason why it´s simply not feasible or sensefull - at least from a business point of view... So, now my mind is free of frustration - thanks for reading and hopefully I ignited the plug at somebody re-thinking his opinion...
  27. 6 points
    [update: Cura 2.1.1 now available here] Hi all, Today we're proud to release the Cura 2.1 open beta Download Cura 2.1 here. Find the manual here. Find the troubleshooting pages here. Full release notes Cura has been completely reengineered from the ground up for an even more seamless integration between hardware, software and materials. Together with its intuitive new user interface, it’s now also ready for any future developments. For the beginner Cura makes 3D printing incredibly easy, and for more advanced users, there are over 140 new customizable settings. NEW FEATURES Select Multiple Objects You now have the freedom to select and manipulate multiple objects at the same time. Grouping You can now group objects together to make it easier to manipulate multiple objects. Undo/Redo You can now undo and redo your actions, like moving an object or scaling. Setting Profiles The new GUI allows custom profiles to load easily and intuitively, directly from Cura. 3MF File Loading Support We’re happy to report we now support loading 3MF files. This is a new file format similar to AMF, but freely available. Intuitive Cut-Off Object Bottom We’ve added a feature than allows you to move objects below the build plate. You can either correct a model with a rough bottom, or print only a part of an object. Please note that the implementation greatly differs from the old one where it was a setting. 64-bit Windows Builds An optimized 64-bit Windows Cura version is now available. This allows loading larger model files. Automatic calculations Cura allows to set a number of lines/layers instead of millimeters. The engine automatically calculates the right settings. Per-Object Settings You can now select different profiles for different objects and when in advance mode override individual settings. CURA ENGINE FEATURES Line width settings added per feature Global, Walls, Top/Bottom, Infill, Skirt, Support. Pattern settings improved per feature Top/Bottom, Infill, Support. Shell Alternate Skin Rotation: helps to combat the pillowing problem on top layers. Alternate Extra Wall: for better infill adhesion. Horizontal Expansion: allows to compensate model x,y-size to get a 1:1 result. Travel (Combing) Avoid Printed Parts: while combing, the print head moves around printed parts, avoiding collisions with the nozzle and a part that’s already printed. Support ZigZag: a new, infill type that’s easily breakable, introduced specially for support. Support Roofs: a new sub-feature to reduce scars the support leaves on overhangs. Support Towers: specialized support for tiny overhang areas. Special Modes Surface Mode: this mode will print the surface of the mesh instead of the enclosed volume. This used to be called ‘Only follow mesh surface’. In addition to the ‘surface mode’ and ‘normal’, a ‘both’ mode has now been added. This ensures all closed volumes are printed as normal and all loose geometry as single walls. Experimental Conical Support: a filament cost-reduction feature for support. Draft Shield: prints a 1-layer wall that prevents air from hitting the print, reducing warping. Fuzzy Skin: prints the outer walls with a jittering motion to give your object a diffused finish. Wire Printing: the object is printed with a mid-air / net-like structure, following the mesh surface. The build plate will move up and down during diagonal segments. Though not visible in layer view, you can view the result in other software, such as Repetier Host or http://chilipeppr.com/tinyg. SUPPORTED OS Mac OSX 10.7 or Higher Windows Vista or Higher Ubuntu 14.04 or Higher - Only 64-bit versions Note that Cura requires a video card that supports OpenGL 2 or higher. SUPPORTED 3D PRINTERS By Ultimaker: Ultimaker Original (no dual extrusion support), Ultimaker Original+, Ultimaker 2 Family, Ultimaker 2+ Family. By 3rd parties: BQ Prusa i3, BQ Witbox, 3D Maker Starter, RigidBot, Malyan M180, German RepRap Neo. There is no dual extrusion support in Cura 2.1 yet. Users with an Ultimaker Original who installed the dual extrusion upgrade kit, can use Cura 15.04. OTHER NEW CURA ENGINE SETTINGS Shell Top/Bottom Thickness: can now be changed separately! Extra Skin Wall Count: add extra walls to the top and bottom layers to improve roofs that start on infill material. Remove Overlapping Inner Wall Parts: remove narrow pieces that cause over extrusion on prints. Compensate Wall Overlaps: compensate narrow pieces causing over extrusion on prints. Fill Gaps Between Walls: fills the tiny gaps on narrow prints pieces. Z Seam Alignment: allows you to choose the z-seam location. Ignore Small Z gaps: if unchecked, fixes small Z gaps. Infill Infill Wipe Distance: allows you to increase infill overlap without over extrusion on the shell. Infill Layer Thickness: choose a separate layer thickness for the infill to save time on prints. Material Retraction Extra Prima Amount: allows you to compensate for oozed material after a travel move. Speed Number of Slower Layers: sets the first layer(s) speeds to increase build plate adhesion. Travel Coasting: prevents oozing by replacing the end of print paths with a short travel move. Cooling Regular/Maximum Fan Speed Threshold: Allows you to set the time a layer must take to linearly go from Regular fan speed to Maximum fan speed. Support Stair Step Height: allows the support to lie tightly on top of objects, increasing support stability. Join Distance: allows supports to become one, increasing support stability. Horizontal Expansion: adds extra support to the x,y-directions, increasing support stability. Area Smoothing: smooths the outside contour of support structures to minimize resonation of the print head. QUICK LINKS Download Cura 2.1 here. Find the manual here. Find the troubleshooting pages here.
  28. 6 points
    Went to the T-Rex exhibit here in leiden Holland, and this is an Impressive T-Rex, the most complete T-rex found. They made some 3D printed parts and castings from other T-rex skeletons to make it complete, and it is a beauty And what did I find at the end of the exhibit, an Ultimaker print farm of 9 Ultimakers, and this:
  29. 6 points
    Merry Christmas folks, have a good one!!!
  30. 6 points
    Heres my entry! I printed the Gorilla with bamboo and i thought i would put him in a banana kiddiepool https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/1758-gorilla-in-banana-kiddiepool
  31. 6 points
    ... finally, a boat. Quality is fairly good, so it's time to return to the actual topic of this thread ...
  32. 6 points
    I had today a very good and rather long personal talk to two people from Ultimaker which are responsible for / dealing with the forum. We were talking about how to improve the forum here. My impression was, that they take every critics, independent of the way it was written here on the new forum, very, very seriously. They ar very grateful for all suggestions, but especially about the fact a lot of you gave them in a very consistent way information about how things have to be improved. What certainly can be said at this point: improvements are on the way and they will be tested before made public (and not only by UM people... ). And they shouldn't take too long. Some of you may know that one wall of the booth Ultimaker is travelling around with from one event to the other (currently at 3D printshow London) is a wall with some text about this community. I must appologize for the bad quality of the picture, but I have to show you the last paragraph of this wall: I guess there is no further comment needed.
  33. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  34. 5 points
    Bonjour à tous, Petit sujet à flood. Il existe le même dans la partie anglaise du forum. Ca permet de mieux faire connaissance ou de simplement se défouler (si besoin), on ne parle pas forcément de sujets liés a l'impression 3D, ça peut être tout et n'importe quoi (dans la limite du raisonnable :mrgreen:) Donc j'ouvre le bal... Cette semaine c'est la dernière semaine des vacances d'automne d'été :mrgreen: bientot le retour a l'école pour ma fille... j'ai fait mon premier feu de l'année hier soir :mad: vive la Belgique. Il parait qu'il est tombé entre 500 et 1000 milliards de litre d'eau sur la belgique en 24h :shock: :eek: Bref c'est top. Surtout que j'ai de la maçonnerie a faire chez moi et sous la pluie ça marches moins bien :geek: Sinon ce weekend j'ai mon Hub sur 3dhubs qui est passé en Hub officiel Ultimaker, du coup je peux imprimer des échantillons pour eux (je ne sais pas exactement comment se passe la commande d'échantillons par contre). Voila pour aujourd'hui, je sais que les topic a flood ne plaisent pas a tout le monde mais si ça permet de nouer des contacts ou simplement se détendre 5 minutes c'est déjà bien Bonne journée à tous, Didier
  35. 5 points
    As for the flow sensor. We (the Mark2 crowd ) almost finished development for an external flow sensor for the UM2+ including firmware integration. Mechanically it fits to the UM3, but connecting to electronics and ofc firmware integration is a different story ...
  36. 5 points
    This is for the users that want to get their Zebra Stripes removed (almost completely) What does it do It fixes the Zebra stripes from the stepper motors that UMO, UM2 and UM3 use (as it today 6 August 2017) Left is WITH the TL-Smooth, Right is WITHOUT. Printed on the same day, same spool, same gcode Before and After installing them. The print test used is the Curve Test by @Valcrow https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print The issue is documented on this post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes On that post you will find that one way to fix it is by doing soldering on the SMD board, a delicate endeavor not for everyone. So a month ago googling I found this TL-Smooth chips that are being sold on a aliexpress shop, bough them and test them. So far it's been a week since I installed them and I don't see any issue after using the printer that has them for the whole week. Does that mean that is safe? No. Any mod ofc might have side effects, and since isn't a UM product, who knows. But IMHO it works nice and doesn't have side effects (that I can see so far). If I find any I'll update this post ofc. The guy that found that this kind if circuits fixes the Decay-something that makes the problem, was this guy http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html The china guys sell it without mention the guy that made all the hard work, but also he never did sell them or offer them, so is a middle ground grey area, where the users benefit from this knowhow. Ofc the little boards are around 8€ for 4 steppers, so it's quite cheap, and they send it quite nicely (except the cables that they sent me wrong like they show on their aliexpress page, so at least they warn about it). So... What you get when it arrives You get 4 plastic thingys, to put the chip in, they seem to compress with heat, but I didn't tested that since doesn't seem important (or is it?) First thing to do, is to check the wire cables. The seller warns about this, and it's important to do it right. That's why I made this simple video showing the process of rearranging the cables and, ofc, twisting the pairs to avoid electrical noise. How to install them Turn off the machine (doh!) Remove the Power Plug Now, without the power cable in. Turn ON and OFF the machine. This will discharge the capacitators, so there's no residual power on the Board. Turn the printer so you can access the board and remove the cover Now, one by one, unplug the motor from the board, and plug them on the TL-Smooth. To remove the cable, use your nails from the corners and push, don't pull the cables to avoid damaging them: Do it on all your steppers, close the cover, and arrange them so they don't disturb you. Warning I take zero responsibility if anyone gets his board damaged, or if their version doesn't work. I don't sell nor promote this stuff. I just found it, bought it and share my results. Important Warning Triple check the cables are right 'in' and they don't go out when pulling them (gently). If that happens you might have them wrong when you reinserted them. Update Last week found an important issue with torque with this stuff on. I need to debug it when I get time but basically if your printer is at the torque limit (for x/y/e) this will affect the prints. Specially the extruder since it's more sensitive to this. I'll test other TL-Smooth version but probably will just move to a Duet3D board and forget about um2 boards.
  37. 5 points
    How about ditching the perspective view and switching to an axonometric projection, or at least allowing the users to select one or the other? Engineering CAD is rarely, if ever, done in a perspective view, and such a view is not really appropriate for many situations in a slicer application. The distortion that occurs in the viewport because of the perspective is a hindrance to accurate positioning and nesting of parts on the build plate. Additionally, allow the 6 (not just 4) primary side views to be viewed without any perspective. Sometimes it's helpful to see the back and bottom views of a build area.
  38. 5 points
    @zerspaner_gerd & @MarcoUbtz Thank you gentlemen, everything is working perfectly now https://www.youmagine.com/designs/flexible-coupler-using-colorfabb-ngen-flex
  39. 5 points
    Discussion is good, and emotional outbursts are bound to show up from time to time whenever there are passionate people involved. I don't consider that a problem; people are pretty well behaved in here as well. But I still think wisdom would be to hold the doomsday predictions until empirical data exists to back them up.
  40. 5 points
    Hey guys, it's been a while. I've been doing some new prints. I used 3d hubs to print some of the smaller parts on a form2 but the main bulk of these models where done on my Ultimaker2. I'd love to have the chance to use an Ultimaker3 and see what can be done without the restrictions of slicing my models into many many parts. Predator: This is my latest print I made for a lecture that I gave in Bulgaria last weekend. Alien: I made this guy for my lecture that I gave at IFCC 2016 earlier this year. His tail is missing in this image as I had to put him in a suitcase in order to get him to Croatia for IFCC VR Zombie: Another print made for IFCC 2016. This guy was really fun to make.
  41. 5 points
    I think I will become a hamster seller. $3 a hamster with a 50% discount if you buy 10. So if my half asleep brain is right I should make $50,478,242,617.455 per printer.
  42. 5 points
    Coupling and extra print head for dual extrusion now approaching pre-production state.
  43. 5 points
    Première impression de 15 heures et première catastrophe Alors j'ai refait le fichier, mais j'ai pas compris ce qui est arrivé. Là, sa a fonctionner. C'est pour mon frigo du bureau. Un modèle presque neuf d'à penne 12 ans et les supports de bouteilles on lâchés. Je les est refait en plus grand et plus solide.
  44. 5 points
    Well Seeing I cant win, I kinda broke the rules. I laser cut one out of balsa wood
  45. 5 points
    Hey everyone! I'm new here on the forum - as you can see by that Team Ultimaker badge to the right over there, I work at Ultimaker. I'm still a n00b, just started here two months ago as part of the marketing team. You might have seen my avatar on a blogpost here or there. So quick intro, I'm an engineering dropout (both electrical and computer) turned online marketer. I'm new to the 3D printing scene, less so to the general geekery of making. Some examples of recent side projects are my DIY sous vide machine and my festival boomcase (boombox + suitcase = you get the idea). In the past few years I'd often seen Ultimakers over at friends who work in automotive, mechanical, or industrial design fields, and they absolutely loved them so that's what inspired me to apply here. During my first week with a printer I went crazy, making the usual geeky stuff - lightsaber, Pikachu, R2-D2, Link, a Slytherin crest, etc etc etc. But fun as it was to decorate the house with that stuff, none of it was functional. And then I had a bright idea. I live in a shared house with two friends, and we have a landlord who does not believe in the concept of preventative maintenance. Or any, really. Which was not usually a huge problem, until a 'plumber' he hired to fix some leaky pipes managed to destroy our shower drain. Destroy it so badly, that he 'fixed' it by caulking the drainpipe directly to the remains of the trashed flange. With no functional trap left in the drain we had a direct line from our shower to the sewer. You can imagine the stench. Landlord then refused to do anything, because the house is so old that replacing the drain would mean replacing the original granite floor in the entire bathroom. But now, armed with my Ultimaker, I figured I should be able to fix this. I started by doing some caulkwork of my own: I jammed a short piece of PVC pipe into the drain and caulked it in place. That was going to be the new bottom end of my trap. Yes that's hideous, but please note that I never said I was good at doing any repairs myself . Anyways, I went to tinkercad and started designing. A flat cylinder with some boxes cut out of it, combined with a hollow cylinder - and my drain cover was done! The hollow cylinder would be the top end of the trap so water gets locked in between the 3D printed drain cover and the PVC pipe, cutting off the foul air from the sewer. It took a few iterations to get the design right - first my size measurements were way off, then my walls were too thin and it wasn't watertight, then I cracked one during my first pressure test (i.e. i accidentally stepped on it), and then I overextended the cylinder and water wouldn't drain fast enough so I flooded the bathroom. But version 5 was good enough to keep using. And now we've been able to enjoy a bathroom that smells like rainbows and unicorns (well, it's all relative) again for the first time in a year! We're 3 weeks in now and it's working absolutely fine. I'm going to print my design in ABS next, because I think that it's theoretically possible to get the water in the shower hot enough that it could deform my PLA print. But apart from that, I'd say my first functional 3D print was a great success TL;DR: Engineering dropout designs and prints a drain cover and is quite pleased with himself. Tuition well spent.
  46. 5 points
    Ive only got two weeks to finish it and and soo behind, but as i have only one printer i just made molds of the stuff i print and cast them in resin. I want a little train running through my set but its for work, not pleasure, lol. Even though its pleasure for me. Ill post more pics when its finished but heres a litlle idea of the amount of stuff..... cant show it all until its finished...some other cool things too, stop motion job.
  47. 5 points
    There's a bit of an improvement I think. I printed the Ultimaker robot and it came out better than my previous print. I still have problems with retraction I think (see the antenna) printed this @ .1mm And I call this one "Improvements since my projects went underground when the old forum closed"
  48. 5 points
    Mini ITX case - 193 x 196 x 116mm Had some printer issues during the print but since it took 20 hours and it's a first computer for an 8 year old, it will suffice
  49. 5 points
    un gros print de 29heures (layer200 micron,pla makershop noir fin de bobine tres difficile) creation d'un vase pour un mariage de type"metaleux,gothique"
  50. 5 points
    Hi Sander. I would love to see the more detailed reply. I felt bad writing the topic. I am not one to complain but try to see the good and try to offer constructive improvements. If I'm wrong, I've learned to admit that over the years.. I understand you are going to improve this system. fantastic. But nowhere in your post do I detect the least bit of worry around my core message; This new system is alienating people that loved going here. Ofcourse there will always be people complaining. There will always be room for improvement. In my opinion, when designing for a system, that's what you go for. a solid base, with room for improvements. The solid base is not there at the moment. If I log in and try to find new posts, I have to dig through a lot of spam posts.. I have to log in again every single time. There is no way for me to visit the old forum that was publicly advertised even though it was promised. There is no more chat. honestly, there is nothing here that is better than before. sure, some stuff is not worse. Search was not working before, it still isn't. I'm not saying you should go to a new forum. I'm saying, why not put the old one back while you work on improvements to get at the bare minimum feature parity. It was great having a usable forum hosted by Ultimaker where people could be free to express their questions, thoughts and customizations. While making posts on the old forum was not always fun (using Internet Explorer was hell, you had to use Firefox or Chrome) and there were a lot of weird things, it did get me through. I tried uploading a print here. failed. tried different method. failed. well, perhaps I'm simply wrong. or to old to understand these new things I'll check back in a month when\if the fixes have been applied
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