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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I agree with you, but I'm developer and this is the reason why I'm on beta. I have tried to report problem with Cura to help Unimaker developers. 😉
  2. 2 points
    Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; Cura settings explained. We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you!
  3. 1 point
    I see the Z numbers in the file match what you saw on the LCD. The numbers I posted above were off the top of my head. The numbers from the file are: Layer 18 at 3.9 Layer 19 at 4.1 ;Pause before layer 20 Repeat Layer 18 at 4.3 Repeat Layer 19 at 4.1 Layer 20 at 4.3 Layer 21 at 4.5 Maybe a moderator can comment on that. It's not making a lot of sense to me. Regarding the flow - the numbers you entered into Cura (114%) are used to calculate the E values that Cura put into the Gcode file. So the E values are already at 114%. When you manually add an M221 you will be changing those 114% values so go with the M221 S115 and then bring it back down with M221 S100. I get good adhesion from PETG and PLA doing that even when the top surface cools down when I'm slow to get the printer started again. Not to knock your design there, but I'd put a slot from the front ring to the tail hook attachment point. You could wire them together and it would be a lot stronger than trusting the plastic to keep a strike from tearing out the hook.
  4. 1 point
    If you don't mind we'll leave this up in case anyone else has the exact same question. Note that in cura, in PREVIEW mode make sure moves are visible (checkbox) in "color scheme: line type"and there are 2 shades of blue. Blue moves are non-extruding moves. One shade is for retraction moves. That's a really good way to tell which are which very quickly. The rules for if a retraction happens is complicated so it's good that Cura shows you which are which.
  5. 1 point
    Stimmt, meine Filafarm Switch ist auch Flexibel. Die flexibilität der Platte kann ein Vorteil sein. Aber wenn das Teil, je nach Filament (auch Temperatur usw.), auf der Platte faktisch verscheißt ist ist das Problem nur verlagert. Die Platte hinter noch heil, aber Teile kapput. Daher habe ich darauf hingewiesen das die Platte zusätzlich etwas experimentelle Erfahrung erfordert. 250 Steine zu bezahlen um ein Problem zu beseitigen kann funktionieren muss aber nicht. Daher kann es vielleicht zuvor gut sein zu Erfahren, dass die Filafarm Switch auch nicht die ultimate Druckplatten ist (ich hoffe die Händler dieser Platte hier im Forum sehen mir das nach) . Vielmehr ist es der Beginn eines Exkurs in Z-Offset Plugin usw. . Wenn man diese Erfahrung dann inne hat, kann man theoretisch getrost wieder die Glasplatte verwenden. Zuvor vl. etwas PVA auftragen, auf aggressive Glasreiniger verzichten, sich eine Plate oder Auflage aus G10, POM oder ALU fräsen. Jedenfalls mit Geld alleine kommt man da nicht raus. Meine Dauerdruckplatten liegen auch die meiste Zeit im Schrank. Ich denke das ist Standard für gehypten Sachen. Bin in dem Zusammenhang direkt froh, dass der S5 tatsächlich druckt 😅
  6. 1 point
    Nevermind: Moderator - I figured it out, and you can feel free to remove my post, I can't figure out how. I realized my extruder is in absolute mode, so I don't have movements that are negative, they just go to lower positive values, and I do find places where that occurs.
  7. 1 point
    Hi Alex, As those wiring is mowing all the times during printing, those wires might break sometimes. This fan is using 5 V DC, also your model is a UM2+ right. So a question, is your printer an upgraded UM2 to + version, -or is it a factory new UM2+? I'll ask this because I'll think the factory new versions aft fan is temperature controlled, -so if this control circuit stop working it's a problem, -but can be fixed. The old UM2 have a fixed 5 V DC, so when power is applied it will start and will stay as long power is applied. Check those small connectors and carefully inspect that the wires is properly connected to the two pin connectors. This wires may also break at the place where it "tends" to bend when printing.. It might be close to the attachment at the back of the printer or quite close to the extruder. But this might not be because of the replacement of the coupler, as your first pictures indicated expanded filament up hi at the "cold" side of the hot end. So if the fan have had this issue for some time, the coupler had suffered due to high temperature and become deformed due to this fact. So as you've tested the fan with external power, the issue may be just a broken (open) connection in the aft "fan wiring". Hope this help. Regards Torgeir
  8. 1 point
    Why isn't there a simple link to an online shop for spare parts and other OEM bits & pieces? I'm having difficulty sourcing some replacement nozzles, that I'm confident will work with my machine (Ultimaker 2 plus).
  9. 1 point
    I'm getting the same on a new S5. Tried manual levelling twice, but core 2 (PVA) tries to print underground each time 😡. Thought it was the cores not fitted properly, but now sure they are ok. Not sure if it is coincidence or not, but downloaded new firmware, and tried again withought changing anything else and its working 😕
  10. 1 point
    Unless you've turned off active levelling, the printer will measure and take care of the height offset between the two cores. To be a bit pedantic, the UM3 can also use Breakaway. The material was launched before the S3 and S5 existed.
  11. 1 point
    you only see one layer because you have "selected only the last layer". at the bottom you have the progress of the currently selected layer while to select the layer you have to use the bar on the right
  12. 1 point
    It's done already, the 20200703 release has the fix.
  13. 1 point
    Hey all! I had the same problem with my Ender 3 (Silent board with Merlin 1.1.8 firmware). It's been printing flawless for more than a year until the latest releases of CURA. I tore down half the 3-D Printer to make sure it wasn't a mechanical issue. My solution to this problem is very simple. Just adjust the flowrate in your start G-code in the machine settings. M221 S(flowrate percent) My start G-code below: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code M221 S95 ;Set flowrate to 95 percent G28 ; Home all axes G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X2 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X2.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X2.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ To check that it is working during a print, go into the Ender 3 "Tune" menu and scroll down to flow (The tune menu is only visible while printing).
  14. 1 point
    I would suggest try reducing the retraction distance in 0.5mm steps and see if (a) the holes go away because you had too much retraction or (b) you start to get stringing or blobs because you have not enough retraction. Obviously, you can test this on a small model rather than your big print.
  15. 1 point
    You can normally tell if it's air because you can actually hear little pops as the bubbles come out of the extruder.
  16. 1 point
    Yes, but your model has no infill and you normally print infill before walls (so it says in your profile) so the air could possibly be expelled in the infill (when you use infill) and you would not notice the holes.
  17. 1 point
    I would hazard a guess and say you are using too much retraction which is sucking air into the extruder.
  18. 1 point
    Hellol Enigma_M4 Thanks for the reply, I've found it. That is the place. If anybody else missed it: In the Material/Print Core menu select the material In the Material menu select the context menu by the dots in the upper right corner In the context menu use the "Move" button to open the Move Material menu
  19. 1 point
    You are doing great so far. It's visible on COM5 so that's critical. Note that many applications might tie up this port and only one can use COM5 at a time. is it possible you launched other software (e.g. a second version of cura)? 1) Do you have an ulticontroller on your UMO? It's a display that shows a few (4?) lines of text and has a knob to go through the menus. If so then you are better off using the SD card. Save your gcode files sliced on cura to SD and then print with SD. 2) For communication between a computer and a UMO, Cura is minimal. It has the absolute minimum of features and capabilities as none of the currently sold UM printers use this feature. So instead, if you don't have an SD card on your UMO, I recommend using printrun/prontrface. It's free and full featured and MUCH better at seeing obscure COM ports (e.g. I don't think cura will acknowledge COM11 but pronterface will): printrun/pronterface/prontrface download: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/
  20. 1 point
    You doubled the steps/mm that is a lot! Cura doesn't know the value of s/mm that is stored in the firmware of the printer. Cura tells the printer to raise the Z-axis x.xmm, the printer then knows how many steps the Z-stepper has to make (with the value stored in the firmware)... In your case the Z-axis will be lowered, not raised... So I find the very strange that it is impossible to print an STL sliced with Cura! Check settings, compare them with the settings in Creality Slicer.
  21. 1 point
    Hi Lokster! SandervG gave me a ping about this. It's not unusual that it takes a week or so before we get around to reviewing and testing plug-in submissions. There are a lot of things for the developers to take care of nowadays! Sorry for the delay. I'll get it reviewed this afternoon and ask a colleague to test it.
  22. 1 point
    It's normal, using this function to modify the settings in case of Cutting Mesh is a little bit tricky. In your configuration on the Cube you must set (same as on my image in the previous post): Top Layers : Normal Bottom Layers : 0 In the regular Profil Top Layers : 0 Bottom Layers : Normal
  23. 1 point
    You don't enter the layer actually - you enter the Z height - the Z position - of where to continue the print.
  24. 1 point
    I'd get a uninterruptable power supply. So you will need 2 of the features that come with tinkerMarlin. I mentioned above - you can set the Z position of the print head exactly. In this mode you spin the dial until the nozzle perfectly lines up with the last good layer and you look at the display and it tells you exactly the position of the head. You want the print to continue on the next layer. You will have an ugly transition. If you are off by one layer then it will either over extrude or underextrude. Even if you get it perfectly the top layer may be only half done. But it works pretty well. I've done it.
  25. 1 point
    Also make sure that the bowden tube is firmly pressed in the coupler and that there is no gap where the filament might could expand when the temperature rises. It shouldn't require any excessive force, but something to keep in mind when you put everything back together. Otherwise there is a risk of that second photo you shared. Good luck!
  26. 1 point
    It is not tinkering... 3 simple changes in the code, nothing go wrong with it. When there is a firmware update on the printer, then need to redo it. Bondtech give very detailed instructions.
  27. 1 point
    One way that I found to get around this issue was to use TinkerCad. I imported the STL that wasn't printing the model, only the support, into a new TinkerCad project. Then I simply exported that project to another STL file. Then I loaded the exported STL file into Cura (4.6.1) and Viola! It prints!
  28. 1 point
    Hi alexgan, Hmm.. Seems there is something going on at the coupler. How is the coupler, the white insulator that's right above the heath block? If the coupler is too much compressed in between the fixed alu spacer and the heat block, the coupler may shrink and the passage for the filament will decrease. This will create a massive resistance for the "free" feed of the filament. This pressure is set by the stainless tube screw that's attached to the heat block, however if this screw is to loose, it may lead to a leakage of filament into the extruder that will ruin you day.. Do not ask me about how tight is enough, cause I never seen any info about this. I just turn it down until it is only in contact with the coupler, then I add about (5-10) degrees more turn -so that I feel "some" resistance. I usually put one mark on the screw and heat sink so I can see that it is held in the right place and do not move. So yes, there is a critical balance in tightening this screw.. These couplers is a consumable part and we should always have some in spare. Hope this help Torgeir
  29. 1 point
    Hi Folks, This tread is kind of old, but here's at last 3 different issues that can happen with any kind of printer.. So, to the first one that's very interesting, cause this is a relatively small round print with an overhang. This problem is not related to the breakaway support, but it is because of to much heat radiation to this part/side of the printed object. As the object is round, you will see that one sector will suffer for lo blast from one of the fan and this is the problem here. This could be cause one fan is not working properly, or just stopped. Also such object may not have sufficient cooling due to the position of the fan and the fact that the object is very close to the bed. To avoid this latter, the only way is to print with blue tape and heat bed off. The break away should have some distance to the "roof" as it should not stick to hard to the print, so around a millimeter or less is what I'm using -but depend a little of filament type as well. The second print with white PLA (I guess), is something else. This color is the most difficult one to print due to it's color, -white. From the thermodynamics this is well known, object with this color do not radiate it's heat energy as well as the object darker colors. So here it is better to be on the low end of temperature advised by the producer. In this print you see some brownish remains that are in the skin of the object, this also indicates to high temperature. With a small content of water present in the filament, very small holes might bee seen in your print. Well, this is just about the old issues up there. Thanks Torgeir
  30. 1 point
    grams - Well the gcode specifies exactly how far to move the extruder. In millimeters. So cura knows how much filament is supposed to go through the extruder (if you are underextruding it will be less - for example if you are printing a bit too fast for your printer). Then Cura uses the known density for PLA to calculate the weight. It should be pretty close to the weight of your part. Actually checking the weight of your part is a good way to measure underextrusion. 10% low is typically fine. 20% low is pretty crappy. I've seen parts that were 50% underextruded - they kind of have holes all the way through them.
  31. 1 point
    Time estimates - The original author of Cura 15.X, for a while, had trouble predicting how long a print would take until he finally included the jerk and acceleration values of the printer. At that moment the predictions got impressively accurate. To this day I think cura still uses Ultimaker values of 5000 mm/sec/sec for the acceleration and 20mm/sec for the "jerk" (it's not truly jerk but that is what Marlin calls that setting). Probably they updated Cura to know the actual default settings for Ultimaker printers but probably never did that for other printers like your ONI. Those values might be somewhere in the settings of your printer profile which is probably in some .json file for the ONI. Or they might be in a default json file that the ONI inherits but doesn't modify? You might be able to enable jerk and accel settings and just set them to the actual values of your particular printer. Such that they wouldn't modify the ONI but that might be enough to get Cura to make accurate time estimates.
  32. 1 point
    Is it possible to do math in the {} ? I notice there is width and depth of the print area, but that would be much more useful if I could somehow reference the center of the bed {machine_width/2} or {machine_depth/2}.... or if they would just add a reference for the {machine_width_center} {machine_depth_center}
  33. 1 point
    Hi Alex, If the filament is soft and climbing up the tube, check that the aft cooling fan is working. This fan is keeping the cold side of the hot end "cold" in order to prevent such happen. Such thing may also happen if the printer is turned off directly after printing without cooling down. Thanks Torgeir
  34. 1 point
    The mainboard uses an Intel G31 chipset with integrated graphics engine "Graphics Media Accelerator 3100". Seems to be quite ancient... Wikipedia says, the windows driver supports DirectX 10 and OpenGL 1.5 Obviously a bit too "ancient" for recent Cura versions 👎 How old is it, 10, 15 years or something in that range?
  35. 1 point
    Well unfortunately if @ctbeke couldn't help with this topic I probably can't either. Have you contacted your reseller to see if perhaps the wifi module on your electronics is functioning?
  36. 1 point
    Hi @Tyller that is probably my bad. Analytics and Maintenance shouldn't be in the list (yet). They should follow later. I have removed them from my post so it wouldn't confuse others. If you want to access the maintenance schedule, you can go to Cura > Monitor and click on the printer you want to see the maintenance schedule for. If you want to see the analytics page you should Cura > Monitor and there should be a button that says Ultimaker Connect / Manage printer and you should be able to find it there. (I am doing this by memory so the exact wording may be slightly off).
  37. 1 point
    that board seems to use MAXIM 31865 ADCs for RTD to digital conversion. this is not compatible with the BTT SKR 1.4 TURBO analog temperature inputs and requires an SPI connection to the host: MAX31865 datasheet
  38. 1 point
    @jnelson33 GitHub behaves a bit special when it comes to download individual files... The easiest way is: - navigate to the main page of the repository (https://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-binary-data) - click on "Clone" - download the whole content as a zip file Alternative: - click on "Go to file" - right click on a single file and download it with the appropriate browser function ("Save target as..." in Firefox) (there are probably even more alternative ways, dunno)
  39. 1 point
    You got the 24Volt part right. So UM cores are around 24 ohms and 3dsolex cores are around 19 ohms.
  40. 1 point
    The other night I printed a part over wifi to see how it would go. It was a one hour print and printed fine no problems. So last night I printed a 4 1/2 hour print over wifi and it did it again. The blobs you see in the print is were the print head pauses for about 15 seconds and keeps extruding creating a blob of filament. I'll include the log files so maybe it will help SandervG. If I didn't upload the files right let me know. I guess I'll go back to printing over the USB stick. No problems when I did that. cap_Kens-Ultimaker-3_2020-06-23_20.42.10_X180.0Y155.0_sensor_reset.log cap_Kens-Ultimaker-3_2020-06-23_20.42.16_N1_X162.0Y155.0.log cap_Kens-Ultimaker-3_2020-06-23_20.42.22_N0_X180.0Y155.0.log cap_Kens-Ultimaker-3_2020-06-23_20.42.31_N0_X200.0Y95.0.log cap_Kens-Ultimaker-3_2020-06-23_20.42.37_N0_X40.0Y15.0.log cap_Kens-Ultimaker-3_2020-06-23_20.42.41_N0_X40.0Y175.0.log flow_KensUltimaker3.log flow_Kens-Ultimaker-3.log
  41. 1 point
    "Reset Digital Factory", delete the printer from cloud an add again worked.
  42. 1 point
    Interested in this 5S. I would like to see if we could come to a deal.
  43. 1 point
    Well, if i set the flow rate in Cura to 50% it uses exactly half of the material than at 100%. On 200% the amount of extruded material is doubled. I specifically used the "Creality Ender-3 Pro" definition - just to double-check. Hmm - seems to be not a Cura issue 🤷‍♂️
  44. 1 point
    CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION UM2 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM One can quickly check the feeder (it takes seconds) so I would always do that first. The feeder on UM2+ and UM2 can push with 10 pounds (5kg) force easily so first thing is to lift that lever (if um2+, if um2 regular do move material) and insert filament so it is only part way into the bowden (e.g. half way). Then move the filament with "move material" command in menu so the feeder is energized and then pull down on the filament under the feeder. You should be able to pull with 5 to 10 pounds force without it slipping. Then have it move the material up while you pull down. 5 pounds force (2kg) is enough to make decent prints at moderate speeds listed below but you need 10 pounds (5kg) to print fast (e.g. 0.2mm layers and 60mm/sec) As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 😎 Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3 and 8mm for S5). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper. 26) Meduza - some people who install the Meduza feeder upgrade (2x the pushing power versus standard black UM2 feeder) make the belt so tight that the printer starts underextruding - typically as the circuitry heats up the extruder driver has less and less power and extrusion gets slowly worse over the course of 10 minutes or so.
  45. 1 point
    Couple photos for now.
  46. 1 point
    Has anyone tried printing Ninjaflex with PVA support? Just after does and don'ts.
  47. 1 point
    OK I found a solution/hack: I cura under "Build Plate Adhesion" add a "Skirt" using the extruder you want to have for the textlayer. This material will be printed first for the skirt and therefore first for your textlayer.
  48. 1 point
    Has there been any progress on this front??
  49. 1 point
    Any chance this approach can/will be implemented in Cura?
  50. 1 point
    Oh - and NEVER print anything before looking at it in slice view in cura. That would have saved you a lot of wasted time and filament.
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