Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2020 in all areas

  1. Hi all, We've released a new patch upgrade to firmware 5.8.0 today. All Ultimaker S5 and Ultimaker S3's will be able to upgrade, but the main added value is for the S5-Pro Bundle. You can read the full release notes here. Notably though, I would like to highlight the following: Unload button on screen. With firmware 5.8.0, a new feature was introduced whereby after a print filament was parked above the printhead, before subsequently retracting to the Material Station. This occurred on a timer. We have now added an unload material functionality on the display of th
    3 points
  2. Hi fodskammel, You can find those washers at RS Components AS in Denmark. Here's three variants of Stainless Steel. Good luck. Hilsen Torgeir
    2 points
  3. Well if you want to pay for Cura, feel free to sponsor my work on it as a 3rd party contributor to the project: https://github.com/sponsors/fieldOfView/
    2 points
  4. The newer firmware works with weak spring and with stiff spring. Replacing the spring is not necessary, but feel free to do so. The behavior you describe is of course not how it should be. You may want to reach out to your reseller, they will be able to help you. How is your bed positioned? I always make sure the bottom of the glass plate is slightly (0.5mm or so) higher than the top of the alu at the front. The screw on the back must be adjusted so that the bed is parallel to the gantry (I do that by manually raising the bed, and then manually move the printhead from front to back
    2 points
  5. As a matter of fact, it's exactly the feature I'm working on right now. We're currently implementing the same auto positioning library as PrusaSlicer uses.
    1 point
  6. Actually, the M206 command is one of the commands TH3D disabled in the FW. I was able to get your json editing technique to work though! Check it out: This gives enough clearance for my mini EZABL probe mount on the X axis and the wheels hitting the front of the frame in the Y axis. For those playing along at home with your own Ender 5 (or other printer), here's what I did (obviously, make sure Cura is closed before doing this): The file you need is C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.7\resources\definitions\creality_ender5.def.json. (edit the f
    1 point
  7. Les règles de dessin sont les mêmes : il faut que ta pièce plie mais pas trop. Ta largeur de languette est beaucoup trop grande. Ta longueur de tige n'est pas assez grande (donc trop rigide) Imprime avec un filament composite et la pièce sera plus solide. Note : ça ne sert à rien de reproduire parfaitement une pièce originale sauf à reproduire des défauts de conception. L'important, c'est la fonction.
    1 point
  8. I already said it before, this is an English forum, please write in English or move to the Dutch section to write in Dutch.
    1 point
  9. Thanks! I already updated the S3 and the S5 without any problems.
    1 point
  10. Hi mrGokhan, What Erin said is important, this sensing of the "captive" sensor measuring the distance between the head nozzle and the bed are using capacitans in order to measure distance. This kind of sensor is very sensitive for noise and such fans can radiate much noise (if it fails). So it is a good advice to disconnect them and do another test! The first thing she asked was to check the red and withe wires connected to the captive sensor. Those two wires may break at sometimes, because they is bend every time the front door is opened. Ok. Inside the
    1 point
  11. As far as I know, there is not official spare part, but on Thingiverse you can find two versions: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2742644 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2970562
    1 point
  12. Well. If you're willing to send me money, I'd love to work on things on my own time. But sorry I misread your question. I don't think that your very long rant was a warranted response though. You could just have said "Sorry, not the stuff I'm looking for"
    1 point
  13. Perhaps you can add a link to the post you found that helped you, in case someone stumbles upon this thread with a similar issue 🙂 Thanks!
    1 point
  14. When you have some results with the two materials, please report it back, maybe someone else is also looking for it in the future. Good luck!
    1 point
  15. Well, then... flip the axis direction and the end-stop position for y in the configuration file and your clone should be satisfied 🙂 See: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/47115
    1 point
  16. Hi John I think you don't need to replace so much. Important are Bowden tubes, print cores, belts if they look bad. The rods should be ok, maybe they don't look nice anymore but I don't think you need to replace them. Maybe you need to replace some bearings as well if the printer is in very bad condition. The printhead itself should be ok, I would not replace the whole head. Maybe the fans, but only if you see that they are not working well. Maybe a new glass plate if it is chipped. I would replace the whole print core if you see any wear. There ar
    1 point
  17. The temperature chart from above can be requested from the printer: http://<ip_address>/info/temperature.html
    1 point
  18. On the Cura downloads page you will find a text link under the latest version download button to view all versions, but to save you a few clicks here is the direct link to the Cura version you are after: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/14.07 But can i ask why you want a version that's 6 years old, when the latest most up todate version supports the Anet A6? https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
    1 point
  19. It is always terrible when such things happen, but great that you were able to solve it quickly!
    1 point
  20. Found the excellent thread on how to recover a bricked UM3. Back in business. Unsure what tripped this thing up, I hadn't touched anything in a while, but better now. Great forum, this! John
    1 point
  21. I ended up trying it in both TinkerCad and Fusion360 and gave up too steep a learning curve and too different to FreeCAD. So I re-drew it in FreeCAD doing it differently and it sliced fine and is now printing. 😀 Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
    1 point
  22. @ ahoeben, thx for you quick answer, damm you are right I dint checked that. I was the meaning that the file will be stored as gcode. Made my day
    1 point
  23. Octoprint itself works fine, so I suggest to solve your Octo problem with their community first and then install the amazing Octoprint plugin for Cura. I have 3 printers running with Octoprint and Cura plugin and it works great. BTW thanks again @ahoeben for the great plugin 👍🏻
    1 point
  24. You've probably been looking at all the settings but is the prime tower enabled? Or a wipe or nozzle clean or a plug-in?
    1 point
  25. The problem with the under extrusion is in your start gcode (or the default one) Filament is retracted too far away from the nozzle from your last print or after loading and the start code primes not enough. So the Print starts in fact without filament. You can modify your start gcode to prime more filament, then the print will be fine.
    1 point
  26. Hallo, zur Teile-Bezeichnung (inkl. Teilenummern) ist die offizielle Teileliste sehr hilfreich (dort ab S. 12). UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf Zur Bezugsquelle: wie @Smithy schon sagte: iGo3D. Viele Grüße
    1 point
  27. Da liegt an SketchUp, das ist für den 3D Druck nur sehr bedingt geeignet. Ich rate dir eine andere Software zu verwenden, da du sonst auch noch andere Probleme haben wirst.
    1 point
  28. Bringt nix. Hab ich schon ein paar mal versucht... Spätestens bei G4 bin ich immer eingeschlafen. 🥱 🙂
    1 point
  29. Ich glaube, das liegt beides daneben... 😀 Im Zweifel: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html Aber wie gesagt: der UM3 interpretiert nur ein (sehr) kleines Subset von gcode-Kommandos direkt. Das meiste wird (von der Linux-Umgebung) anderweitig interpretiert oder gleich ganz ignoriert. Für die Kontrolle ist es ganz nett, G0 (oder G1 🙂) abschicken zu können, Kalibrieren mit M92 wird aber vermutlich nicht klappen - das funktioniert am UM3 (und höher) ganz anders - da folge am Besten den Instruktionen von Bondtech.
    1 point
  30. Guys, if you just post a message that slicing is not working, what do you think who is able to help you. So, if you expect help from the community, write a new good post, explaining what is exactly not working, what you already have tried and if needed post some screenshots. Otherwise nobody is able to help. And @bivai it also doesn't help if you post in several threads, that you have a problem without explaining, so please stop that and open a new thread which explains your problem.
    1 point
  31. You would need to use a Brim for the model but then you could use "Enable support brim" to give the supports a wider base.
    1 point
  32. We are having the same issue, unable to unload material. We've reverted back to the previous firmware. I do want to stress that we are really grateful for this new feature, as we are often repeating prints of short duration, with the same filament. It will cut back on time a lot. Can't wait for versions 5.8.1 🙂
    1 point
  33. The latest version of S3D (4.1) as support for the S5 built in, but like @Smithy says it’s a little bit on the basic side next to using Cura and will only support the printer itself and that’s why I moved to Cura, only keep SSD for my flashforge printers as no working profiles for Cura. If you need a profile for older version of S3D, try this. This is working profiles for AA/AA cores and AA/BB cores. 0.4mm btw Download the attached file and unzip. Open Simplify3D, go to File > Import FFF Profile, and navigate to the saved profile. This will import the s
    1 point
  34. Ok. Semantics is it. Well I don't like "modifier meshes". How about something exciting like "Variable Density Augmenters" or "Internal Structure Adjusters" or the ever popular "Inside Topography Transformer Thingies"?
    1 point
  35. Du kannst den Developer Mode enabled, dann mit ssh verbinden und dort dann den gcode eingeben. Du nimmst als User/Pwd ultimaker/ultimaker und schickst dann die Kommandos so ab: sendgcode G1 blablabla
    1 point
  36. Github is the place to do feature requests: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues
    1 point
  37. /sigh sorry about the multiple posts all, the edit button is missing this morning..... I modified Ahoeben's provided solution to get around the dual extruder requirement to set the "standby" temp. instead of this : M109 S{material_standby_temperature} ;Heat up extruder to non-oozing temperature use this : M109 S150 ;Heat extruder to standby temp Works brilliantly, thank you again Adhoeben 😉
    1 point
  38. That fixed it. It is now printing, and well too 🙂 🙂 🙂
    1 point
  39. @AnnaAnimus - in Cura just above all the settings type "temp" in the search box. standby temp is not visible unless you have at least 2 extruders enabled. The temp is set I think in your profile. So maybe just manually put a lower temp in there. 150C for PLA might work well. If the filament curls and hits the nozzle it indicates you could use a cleaning (cold pulls - look it up). Maybe using a hypodermic scraping the inside of the nozzle tip. But sometimes you get curling even when the amount of cleaning needed is pretty minor and at the same time very hard to get
    1 point
  40. Sorry, I mixed up some heatup commands. If you copy/pasted the code before now, please do so again.
    1 point
  41. I have had some success (depending on part geometry) using support blockers. Set "Per Model Settings | Modify settings for Overlaps" differently for the blocker. You can add walls or change the infill density to 100%. I suppose you could bring in a 2nd custom shaped model and use it as the blocker. I haven't had to do that yet but off the top of my head it sounds like it should work.
    1 point
  42. I would check the front cooling fan is spinning and working right if the filament had grown a ring around it outside of the print core, as you might have had heat creep due to front fan not working/spinning free.
    1 point
  43. Yes, I got the same problems, and only now found the solution. Just change the thickness of the filament from 2.85 to 1.75 in the settings. Of course it would help only if u use 1.75 mm filament.
    1 point
  44. In the Export Dialog Box choose "Keep Settings Unchanged" from the drop down list. The settings that will be used on your model are then those you have established under Custom in SolidWorks. For instance, here are mine: Hope this helps.
    1 point
  45. la solidité va dépendre de l'inter-diffusion de ton filament...
    1 point
  46. Oui : les filaments phosphorescents, certains filaments à paillettes, les filaments conducteurs (magnétiques), les filaments chargés en pierre, fibre de verre, carbone, kevlar...
    1 point
  47. Ok. Problème d'interdiffusion lié à la rétraction, je m'explique. La pièce à cassé au niveau d'une couche et c'est la première couche ou tu as de la rétraction sur ton objet car les pales ne sont pas contiguës. Si tu as trop de rétraction, il n'y a pas assez de filament qui se dépose sur la couche précédente et donc elles ne pourront pas correctement fusionner entre elle. Une température d'extrusion pas assez élevée et/ou une température ambiante également pas assez élevée peuvent être également à l'origine du problème. Tu peux gérer également le temps minimum par couche qui permet
    1 point
  48. Version 1.0

    849 downloads

    An opulent trophy for our building's monthly Trivia night. Embellished with the finest 24-carat gold (-colored spray paint) plating and gemstone (-looking beads). A brain is nestled within and perched atop one finds a tiny crown to finish it all off.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...