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  1. The newer firmware works with weak spring and with stiff spring. Replacing the spring is not necessary, but feel free to do so. The behavior you describe is of course not how it should be. You may want to reach out to your reseller, they will be able to help you. How is your bed positioned? I always make sure the bottom of the glass plate is slightly (0.5mm or so) higher than the top of the alu at the front. The screw on the back must be adjusted so that the bed is parallel to the gantry (I do that by manually raising the bed, and then manually move the printhead from front to back
    2 points
  2. That fixed it. It is now printing, and well too 🙂 🙂 🙂
    2 points
  3. Your start gcode does not include any commands to heat up your extruder or your bed. Cura sees this, and tries to help you by adding a heatup sequence before your start gcode. This is handy, but not flexible. Here's a sequence that first heats up the bed and hotend, but uses the "standby temperature" that is low enough that no oozing will happen. Then it does the leveling, before heating the hotend all the way up in time for priming. ``` M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.0
    2 points
  4. When you have some results with the two materials, please report it back, maybe someone else is also looking for it in the future. Good luck!
    1 point
  5. Hi John I think you don't need to replace so much. Important are Bowden tubes, print cores, belts if they look bad. The rods should be ok, maybe they don't look nice anymore but I don't think you need to replace them. Maybe you need to replace some bearings as well if the printer is in very bad condition. The printhead itself should be ok, I would not replace the whole head. Maybe the fans, but only if you see that they are not working well. Maybe a new glass plate if it is chipped. I would replace the whole print core if you see any wear. There ar
    1 point
  6. The temperature chart from above can be requested from the printer: http://<ip_address>/info/temperature.html
    1 point
  7. Hi fodskammel, You can find those washers at RS Components AS in Denmark. Here's three variants of Stainless Steel. Good luck. Hilsen Torgeir
    1 point
  8. Well if you want to pay for Cura, feel free to sponsor my work on it as a 3rd party contributor to the project: https://github.com/sponsors/fieldOfView/
    1 point
  9. On the Cura downloads page you will find a text link under the latest version download button to view all versions, but to save you a few clicks here is the direct link to the Cura version you are after: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/14.07 But can i ask why you want a version that's 6 years old, when the latest most up todate version supports the Anet A6? https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
    1 point
  10. Formfutura cardboard spool adapter for UM S3 and S5 I print all my outdoor parts with FormFutura ApolloX (ASA) on Ultimaker. This material is just too great in terms of thermal, mechanical, UV and water resistance, while printing super easy like PLA. However, formfutura switched from plastic spools to cardboard spools and the latter get stuck on the UM S3 and S5 spool holders. (no issue so far on S5 material station). Hence i created a little adapter with which the cardboard spool works fine again. See here on grabcad or thingiverse: https:
    1 point
  11. It is always terrible when such things happen, but great that you were able to solve it quickly!
    1 point
  12. Glad it worked! When you know FreeCad it makes no sense to learn another software when you are happy with it.
    1 point
  13. I ended up trying it in both TinkerCad and Fusion360 and gave up too steep a learning curve and too different to FreeCAD. So I re-drew it in FreeCAD doing it differently and it sliced fine and is now printing. 😀 Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
    1 point
  14. @ ahoeben, thx for you quick answer, damm you are right I dint checked that. I was the meaning that the file will be stored as gcode. Made my day
    1 point
  15. You get little strings from some filament that get into the fan and wrap around it, best to give the fan a good clean and pull any strings out. If its all clean and still not sounding right then i would replace it as its a cheap but very key part of the printer.
    1 point
  16. Octoprint itself works fine, so I suggest to solve your Octo problem with their community first and then install the amazing Octoprint plugin for Cura. I have 3 printers running with Octoprint and Cura plugin and it works great. BTW thanks again @ahoeben for the great plugin 👍🏻
    1 point
  17. You've probably been looking at all the settings but is the prime tower enabled? Or a wipe or nozzle clean or a plug-in?
    1 point
  18. These codes should work: Start GCode ;### UM2Ext Start GCode ### M42 S255 ;turn led on G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 Z0 ;move Z to bottom endstops G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to endstops G1 X10 Y10 F4000 ;move X/Y to front of printer G1 Z40.0 F9000 ;move platform up G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 E20 F200 ;purge nozzle quickly G1 E30 F100 ;purge nozzle slower G1 E35 F30 ;purge nozzle slowly G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;set speed M117 Printing... End GCode
    1 point
  19. The problem with the under extrusion is in your start gcode (or the default one) Filament is retracted too far away from the nozzle from your last print or after loading and the start code primes not enough. So the Print starts in fact without filament. You can modify your start gcode to prime more filament, then the print will be fine.
    1 point
  20. Hallo, zur Teile-Bezeichnung (inkl. Teilenummern) ist die offizielle Teileliste sehr hilfreich (dort ab S. 12). UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf Zur Bezugsquelle: wie @Smithy schon sagte: iGo3D. Viele Grüße
    1 point
  21. Da liegt an SketchUp, das ist für den 3D Druck nur sehr bedingt geeignet. Ich rate dir eine andere Software zu verwenden, da du sonst auch noch andere Probleme haben wirst.
    1 point
  22. Bringt nix. Hab ich schon ein paar mal versucht... Spätestens bei G4 bin ich immer eingeschlafen. 🥱 🙂
    1 point
  23. Ich glaube, das liegt beides daneben... 😀 Im Zweifel: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html Aber wie gesagt: der UM3 interpretiert nur ein (sehr) kleines Subset von gcode-Kommandos direkt. Das meiste wird (von der Linux-Umgebung) anderweitig interpretiert oder gleich ganz ignoriert. Für die Kontrolle ist es ganz nett, G0 (oder G1 🙂) abschicken zu können, Kalibrieren mit M92 wird aber vermutlich nicht klappen - das funktioniert am UM3 (und höher) ganz anders - da folge am Besten den Instruktionen von Bondtech.
    1 point
  24. Guys, if you just post a message that slicing is not working, what do you think who is able to help you. So, if you expect help from the community, write a new good post, explaining what is exactly not working, what you already have tried and if needed post some screenshots. Otherwise nobody is able to help. And @bivai it also doesn't help if you post in several threads, that you have a problem without explaining, so please stop that and open a new thread which explains your problem.
    1 point
  25. You would need to use a Brim for the model but then you could use "Enable support brim" to give the supports a wider base.
    1 point
  26. It can always happen that a specific feature is not self explaining for everyone and that someone cannot understand how it works. The good news are, that Ultimaker has a good documentation on their website which explains it deeper: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013370140-How-to-adjust-print-settings-of-a-part-of-my-model-in-Ultimaker-Cura So everything is available, just not as a popping up tooltip that says, "Hey, I think you need some assistance using a feature I am guessing you want to use, let me guide you to the documentation...."
    1 point
  27. The latest version of S3D (4.1) as support for the S5 built in, but like @Smithy says it’s a little bit on the basic side next to using Cura and will only support the printer itself and that’s why I moved to Cura, only keep SSD for my flashforge printers as no working profiles for Cura. If you need a profile for older version of S3D, try this. This is working profiles for AA/AA cores and AA/BB cores. 0.4mm btw Download the attached file and unzip. Open Simplify3D, go to File > Import FFF Profile, and navigate to the saved profile. This will import the s
    1 point
  28. Ok. Semantics is it. Well I don't like "modifier meshes". How about something exciting like "Variable Density Augmenters" or "Internal Structure Adjusters" or the ever popular "Inside Topography Transformer Thingies"?
    1 point
  29. Ja sollte genauso gehen, mit dem Command sendgcode schickst du einfach alles zum Drucker was du sonst mit Pronterface machst.
    1 point
  30. Du kannst den Developer Mode enabled, dann mit ssh verbinden und dort dann den gcode eingeben. Du nimmst als User/Pwd ultimaker/ultimaker und schickst dann die Kommandos so ab: sendgcode G1 blablabla
    1 point
  31. Github is the place to do feature requests: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues
    1 point
  32. /sigh sorry about the multiple posts all, the edit button is missing this morning..... I modified Ahoeben's provided solution to get around the dual extruder requirement to set the "standby" temp. instead of this : M109 S{material_standby_temperature} ;Heat up extruder to non-oozing temperature use this : M109 S150 ;Heat extruder to standby temp Works brilliantly, thank you again Adhoeben 😉
    1 point
  33. @AnnaAnimus - in Cura just above all the settings type "temp" in the search box. standby temp is not visible unless you have at least 2 extruders enabled. The temp is set I think in your profile. So maybe just manually put a lower temp in there. 150C for PLA might work well. If the filament curls and hits the nozzle it indicates you could use a cleaning (cold pulls - look it up). Maybe using a hypodermic scraping the inside of the nozzle tip. But sometimes you get curling even when the amount of cleaning needed is pretty minor and at the same time very hard to get
    1 point
  34. Sorry, I mixed up some heatup commands. If you copy/pasted the code before now, please do so again.
    1 point
  35. How many steps/mm do you have for the Z axis? How far is it moving the Z axis from first to second layer? What level of substepping do you have? What is the feedrate (F command) when it moves the Z axis? (maybe paste here the exact gcode that has the Z position and the nearest F command before that and everything between).
    1 point
  36. Hi Chris, Thanks for engaging the Engineers to review the logs. From your note, the printer lost connection with the NTP servers (potentially a network connectivity issue) which then caused the Digital Factory certificates (which are time sensitive) to be invalid. To resolve the issue I performed a Digital Factory reset from the menu and removed/added the printer back in Cura which resolved the issue. Thanks again Chris and the Engineers for looking into my issue. I am able to print and complete my jobs! I appreciate it!
    1 point
  37. I have had some success (depending on part geometry) using support blockers. Set "Per Model Settings | Modify settings for Overlaps" differently for the blocker. You can add walls or change the infill density to 100%. I suppose you could bring in a 2nd custom shaped model and use it as the blocker. I haven't had to do that yet but off the top of my head it sounds like it should work.
    1 point
  38. You can change the theme in the Cura configuration. There is a light and a dark colorblind theme too there.
    1 point
  39. Have you tried to clean the nozzle with some hot/cold pulls? How old is your TFM coupler, does it look bad?
    1 point
  40. You can create a backup by going to extensions - > backups. On the new machine you can just restore the backup.
    1 point
  41. Please report such issues on the GitHub site of Cura. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues
    1 point
  42. I updated Cura to version 4.7.1 and was immediately able to login to my Ultimaker account, so I thought this issue was fixed. But I just tried logging in again, and I have the same problems as before.
    1 point
  43. Thanks for the kind words!!. Im putting all my stuff up there. Just lookup cloakfiend on patreon! There is only one. Not sure i can post links here! Let me know if you still cant find it!
    1 point
  44. This model is one of my own. But its in my patreon if you really wanted it! I've cleaned it up a bit since these were taken.
    1 point
  45. I would check the front cooling fan is spinning and working right if the filament had grown a ring around it outside of the print core, as you might have had heat creep due to front fan not working/spinning free.
    1 point
  46. @BugMeYetAgain - it's important to have both files - the content and the signature file - on the USB.
    1 point
  47. In the Export Dialog Box choose "Keep Settings Unchanged" from the drop down list. The settings that will be used on your model are then those you have established under Custom in SolidWorks. For instance, here are mine: Hope this helps.
    1 point
  48. I have created a plugin that lets Cura access HID mouse devices such as the 3Dconnexion Spacemouse. It's called RawMouse because the plugin interfaces directly to the raw device without the aid/hinderance of an operating system driver. It's not a sophisticated all-singing, all-dancing interface, it simply converts the HID mouse commands into the equivalent 2D mouse commands. It has been (vaguely) tested on Linux and Windows 10 and it should also function on MacOS (10.13 upwards). For a quick install, unzip the latest RawMouse.zip from https://github.com/smartavionics/
    1 point
  49. Is there anyone has setup details for Creatbot F430 on Cura 4.3 ? Thanks
    1 point
  50. Version 1.0

    849 downloads

    An opulent trophy for our building's monthly Trivia night. Embellished with the finest 24-carat gold (-colored spray paint) plating and gemstone (-looking beads). A brain is nestled within and perched atop one finds a tiny crown to finish it all off.
    1 point
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