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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/14/2019 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 4 points
    WARNING: The website, www.3dlac.nl does not belong to our company and we have no link whatsoever, there have been customers who have told us that they have bought there and do not send anything. we have communicated to the web, the possible crime that they are committing by using a registered trademark, in addition to defrauding users. We are going to take the appropriate legal measures JOSE ANGEL CASTA├ĹO CEO 3DLAC
  3. 2 points
    It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  4. 2 points
    This is a common problem and trivial to fix. It usually happens when someone picks up the printer and they squeeze a long belt too hard and it skips a tooth. Push the print head to the center of each of the 4 sides and pay attention to the side blocks and see if they stop at the same point or if one can keep moving. Also look straight down on the two rods that pass through the head and see if they visually don't look quite square. If either of these are true then it's easy to fix. Here is one description of how to fix it: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles
  5. 2 points
    I was stupid enough to order a couple of cans at https://3dlac.nl. The site turns out to be fake. No products were delvired. No reply to email. There's no phone number to call. The address doesn't exist. ­čĺę­čśź
  6. 1 point
    Huhu, Octoprint hatte ich mit Tinker V16.08.2 am Laufen. Mit der original Firmware lief es bei mir nicht. Siehe https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases Ich nutze Octoprint immer noch, allerdings ist mein U2E mittlerweile mit einem Duet-Board best├╝ckt. Das invertieren der X- und Z- Achse mach bitte in der Firmware. In Simplify3D wird nur die Y-Achse invertriert. X0,Y0 muss vorne links sein, Z0 ist "oben". Dann deaktiviere erst einmal alle plugins, die du zus├Ątzlich installiert hast. Im Terminalfenster von Octoprint die Haken setzen: Danach kannst Du direkt G-Codes absetzen und ├╝berpr├╝fen, ob das Koordinatensystem passt. Z.B. G1 X0 Y0 F1200 Gru├č, Dirk
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    You should post your questions in this thread
  9. 1 point
    Im in Barcelona at the moment checkin out Gaudis style. Did a few scans we'll see how good they come out when I get back!. Also finally started to paint my nakedish lady. Will post pics soon. Doing some concrete molds as well looking good. Shame I have a job to do.... just not enough hours in the day! Keep it up k-man always an inspiration!!
  10. 1 point
    I've been looking into this more and found the "fan at full height" setting. I wonder if this has anything to do with it? As in the layer is turning on at 100% at the second layer and subsequently cooling the hot end slightly causing an underextrusion. Unless it's already enabled. I do have Cura 4.0 as my slicer, will need to look into this setting some more.
  11. 1 point
    I know you're struggling with it, but when you see the finished model, you almost can't believe it. Don't be impatient and look forward to the incredible result.
  12. 1 point
    That looks awesome, @kmanstudios!
  13. 1 point
    I am sorry, I don't know, never used that option. Yes ­čÖé Welcome on board!
  14. 1 point
    I also have a lot of problems with supports, among other tings with v4.2.1. I reinstalled v4.1, and noticed a setting that might contribute to the problem: "Minimum Support Area" are set to 10 mm2 in v4.2.1, while in v4.1 it's set to 0 mm2. Also, i found support harder to remove with the "Enable Support Interface" enabled - and i found the "Support Wall Line Count" set to 1, a waste of time and filament... ­čÖé
  15. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  16. 1 point
    Yes but you are going to tear your adhesion sheet very often anyway so it's not as wonderful as you might think. Also you can print on both sides of the glass if you want. If you use PVA glue I'm not sure that it makes a difference which side you print on. I've printed on both sides of the glass on 4 of my 7 UM printers (so far) because after a year or so I usually manage to chip the glass. It might make a difference but I haven't noticed.
  17. 1 point
    See https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5265.
  18. 1 point
    Das Problem mit Luft drucken kenne ich. Dein G-Code ist sauber, konnte da nichts auff├Ąlliges finden. Versuche bitte folgendes: Erhitze am Drucker das Hotend auf 170┬░ und schiebe das Filament von Hand aus durch, erh├Âhe und wiederhole diesen Vorgang steppweise um 10┬░ bis 230┬░, nach jedem Versuch sollte das Filament durch das Hotend leichter gehen weil das Filament fl├╝ssiger wird und nach jedem Versuch das Filament um ca. 1cm zur├╝ckziehen. Sollte nach erh├Âhen der Temparatur das Filament schwieriger durch zu schieben, ist die Verbingung zwischen Hotendschraube und Hotend nicht mehr ok, oder wenn das Filament aus der D├╝se deutlich kleiner ist als der D├╝sendurchmesser dann ist die D├╝se verstopf. In diesem Fall Hotend auseinander und Fehler beseitigen. Sollte alles ok sein dann die D├╝se auf 200┬░ erhitzen und L├╝fter auf 100% einstellen und das Filament am Displaymen├╝ durchlaufen lassen, wenn er das nicht schaffen sollte, ist der Extruder nicht mehr ok.
  19. 1 point
    BTW, you can save yourself some time and filament by switching to gyroid infill at a much lower density than what you are currently using. It will still be stupidly strong. I also recommend enabling the optimise wall printing order setting.
  20. 1 point
    It would be worth taking the Bowden tube off and trying with a piece of filament if the tube feels rough. In the five years I have had my UM2 I have changed the tube at least once, some times in a desperate attempt to solve an extrusion problem. You have changed all of the other elements in the materiel feed chain good luck
  21. 1 point
    Thanks for the project file. Hmm, very weird, It looks to me that those sections are being inverted, i.e. the hole is treated as solid and gets skin and the non-hole area which should be skin is empty (if you turn off the fill gaps between walls setting). At this time, I can't say where the bug is. Possibly in the front end but it looks more likely to be in the slicer back end. Interestingly, when I sliced the led_panel.stl using different settings there wasn't a problem so I will continue to investigate.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks for the models. I was wrong, the models are OK. However, I can slice led_panel.stl and it looks OK. It must, instead, be a problem with the settings. Please save the project file and attach to this thread. Thanks.
  23. 1 point
    Hier ein post mit gleichen Problem evtl. vielleicht gleicher Fehler!
  24. 1 point
    Was hast du denn eigentlich f├╝r Werte im Cura f├╝r Geschwindigkeit, Beschleunigung und Ruck/Jerk?
  25. 1 point
    I expect the model has a problem. Please attach it to this thread. Thanks.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Actually, I think what is happening is that the wall overlap compensation is enabled and because the wall is thin, the resulting 2nd wall contains very little filament. To stop the pointless travel set the minimum wall flow value to something like 50 (or even higher) and it should stop that pointless travel occuring.
  28. 1 point
    Hallo Psychotron, es k├Ânnte folgendes sein: 1. Die Z-Achse Kabel k├Ânnte Schaden bekommen haben, ist zwar nicht durchgetrennt aber vielleicht nur noch 1 oder 2 Dr├Ąhte haben noch Kontakt und haben nicht genug Ampere. 2. Die Treiber k├Ânnten besch├Ądigt sein, sie leben nicht ewig. 3. Die Z-Beschleunig in der Firmware oder Slicer sind zu hoch. 4. Z-Achse klemmen ein bischen. Folgendes versuchen, starte ein Testdruck und gehe am Anfang auf ca. 10% Druckgeschwindigkeit runter und warte bis das Display die n├Ąchste Schicht anzeigt wie Z0.2 auf Z0.4 und beobachten ob die Z-Achse sich hebt oder senkt, wenn ja so lange mit Geschwindigkeit erh├Âhen bis auf 100% bzw. die Z-Achse sich nicht mehr hebt oder senkt. Wenn der Fall, dass vor 100% die Z-Achse sich nicht hebt oder senkt, dann Punkt 1-4 durch checken. Bei Manuell der Z-Achse senken (auch Xund Y) oder heben hat man eine andere i.d.R. eine niedrigere Beschleunigung und Geschwindigkeit als beim Drucken, weil der Slicer es so vorgibt, deswegen hat man da keine Probleme.
  29. 1 point
    Ich dachte eigentlich du w├╝rdest den gcode auf einen Stick oder sdkarte packen und direkt vom Ger├Ąt drucken. Also ohne Cura dazwischen Sag mal, wie steuerst du denn deinen Drucker mit Cura, das ist doch nur ein Slicer. Oder nutzt du das Pronterface ui?
  30. 1 point
    Hast du das gleiche Teil schon mit einem anderen Slicer wie z.B. dem PrusaSlicer probiert?
  31. 1 point
    Hello, just go on the display to the filament an then touch the three points on the right top. There should be the option move or something. With this option the extruder gets hot an you can move the filament with the two arrows in both directions. I hope i could help
  32. 1 point
    Ich kann da Breakaway von Ultimaker empfehlen. Damit druck ich ohne Luftspalt zwischen PLA und St├╝tzdach. Nach dem Druck l├Ąsst sich das einfach abl├Âsen. Hat auch den Vorteil das du das Bauteil direkt benutzen kannst und nicht darauf warten musst bis sich das PVA aufgel├Âst hat. PVA benutz ich nur falls ich das St├╝tzmaterial sonst nicht entfernen kann. Oder wenn ich mal was mit Nylon drucke. EDIT: Um etwas Material zu sparen Drucke ich oft nur das St├╝tzdach aus Breakaway. Die Struktur dann einfach aus dem Druckmaterial, meist PLA.
  33. 1 point
    What layer thickness are you printing this with? From what I have read elsewhere, using a single wall to calibrate flow rate is not a good measure. To check for proper calibration, print a calibration cube with infill and measure the resulting cube. AFAIK, to check for proper flow and bonding with a single wall, you want to focus on the finish of the surface and layer bond strength of a spiralized cylinder.
  34. 1 point
    Wer dennoch was Spitzes drucken m├Âchte, kann ├╝ber St├╝tzstrucktur machen. Winkel auf 80┬░ eingeben. Wenn das St├╝tztmaterial zu klein ist, kann ├╝ber "Horizontale Erweiterung der St├╝tzstrucktur" und "St├╝tz Brim aktivieren" auf 1 oder mehr eingeben und gegebenfalls St├╝tzdach aktivieren. Die Pfeilerfunktion h├Ątte sowieso keine Bedeutung, da Spitze auf Spitze nicht funktionieren w├╝rde.
  35. 1 point
    Turn off active leveling. I don't recommend it. But keep in mind you need to not touch the printer during active leveling. Stay at least a foot away. Keep anything that radiates electromagnetic energy away from it also. It's very sensitive. Also the spring settings matter so make sure the bed springs aren't too tight and maybe take out the core, remove the clear top and stretch out that spring a little. You need the core spring to be stronger than the bed spring. Anyway, just turn off active leveling. It's just a gimmick and if your bed isn't level it makes the bottom of your parts tilted (on purpose of course - it slowly recovers level over the bottom few mm). For the S5 active leveling is much better as does more than just tilt correction - it corrects at each spot of potentially wavy glass. Also open the print head and look inside at the part that flops down - the inside bottom of the head. There should be 2 wires (typically red and white). Tug on them very gently. If either comes loose then that was your problem (that's the leveling sensor).
  36. 1 point
    If the Z axis is consistent then just change the steps/mm accordingly in tinkerMarlin. If the stepper is losing power sometimes and the weight of the bed moves it down enough to skip a step then lower the current to the Z stepper. Ultimaker has a history of lowering the current to the Z stepper I think 2 times over the years on the UM2. First down to 1000ma and then I think down to 900ma. The stepper can overheat and turn off for well under a second. Underextrusion sounds more serious. Did you get a clone print head of the UM2? Is the 3rd fan working well? There are many crazy details about the print head that seem unimportant but really matter a lot. Like the thermal contact between the round nut and the aluminum base plate and the thermal contact to the fan heatsink in the rear of the head. Is that 3rd fan working well? Is the teflon squeezed too much? Note that the bottom layer is printed slower and with a larger gap and when you speed up slowly on the next 5 layers underextrusion just gets worse and worse - maybe you are simply printing too fast. Here's my complete list of underextrusion issues for UM2. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION UM2 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM One can quickly check the feeder (it takes seconds) so I would always do that first. The feeder on UM2+ and UM2 can push with 10 pounds (5kg) force easily so first thing is to lift that lever (if um2+, if um2 regular do move material) and insert filament so it is only part way into the bowden (e.g. half way). Then move the filament with "move material" command in menu so the feeder is energized and then pull down on the filament under the feeder. You should be able to pull with 5 to 10 pounds force without it slipping. Then have it move the material up while you pull down. 5 pounds force (2kg) is enough to make decent prints at moderate speeds listed below but you need 10 pounds (5kg) to print fast (e.g. 0.2mm layers and 60mm/sec) As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg ­čśÄ Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3 and 8mm for S5). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper.
  37. 1 point
    Certainly you can also do this by messing with the firmware. But if this really bothers you then consider ordering a spare set of LED strips. Every reseller of Ultimaker has the ability to order and send you *any* part. These parts aren't shown in their stores (there are too many) but if you email them then you can get a price quote. For example 3dverkstan.se
  38. 1 point
    The lights are actually RGBW (last one is white). In other words there are 4 different controllable LEDs inside each of the 40 or so lights. But there is no way to control just the right or left side. They are all controlled together. Maybe you could dim the blue or white component on both sides to get it more balanced. So you used to be able to change the colors with M142. I'm not sure if that works with latest firmware. One method is described here (post by neotko): The more complicated way but more interactive way of trying out different colors is shown in this video (also by neotko):
  39. 1 point
    Das ist sch├Ân und gut mit deinem Beispiel Gerd, aber diese Pfeiler tauchen fast bei jedem Objekt auf, sobald man St├╝tztsrucktur aktiviert. Es f├Ąllt euch wahrscheinlich bis jetzt nicht auf , weil sie klein sind und wie St├╝tztstrucktur aussehen. Normal sind diese Pfeiler v├Âllig ├╝berfl├╝ssing und st├Ârend. Als diese Funktion entwickelt wurde, glaube schon vor mehrere Jahren, war sie automatisch (Standard) aktiviert und ausgeblendet und ich bekam davon nichts mit. Sie war immer da sobald ich St├╝tztstrucktur brauchte, konnte mit keiner St├╝tzstrucktureinstellungen wegbekommen, weil die Funktion versteckt war, ich war ziemlich ver├Ąrgert. Hier ein Beispiel wieso sie st├Ârend sind, normal ist sie auf 3mm hier habe ich auf 6mm gemacht um besser verdeutlichen zu k├Ânnen. Also diesen Bl├Âdsinn besser deaktivieren.
  40. 1 point
    You could try rotating it 90 degrees.The problem is that printers aren't simultaneous 3d so the Z will always be in small steps because they can't move all three axis at the same time. I work with cnc's and printer is what we refer to at 21/2D.
  41. 1 point
    Hello, I have modified my SANJIU Z360 (Ultimaker 2 extended plus- clone) first with the original DXU design and after some under extrusion problems I finally got it tuned. now i have printed the second version of the head / fans and it is working very well. THANK YOU !!!
  42. 1 point
    This orange component removes the finished parts from the press. The part replaced an aluminum part, which in each case additionally had to be equipped with a teflon glider and was also much more expensive to manufacture. In addition, the 3d printed component was provided with a break point, which protects the upper punch against damage in the event of a crash.
  43. 1 point
    This is the prime tower to swipe the nozzles. You can turn it off if you want - search for tower or prime and you will find the option.
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