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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/06/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    I have this same issue on an S5. The logs fill up with ~85MB over several days, filling the device entirely. At that point, the S5 shows as being on the network, but is basically inoperable. There are three ways I've found to get the printer back into an operable state: 1) Factory Reset 2) Cura Connect Reset 3) SSH into the printer, and clean the log files directory, then reboot the printer (via the CLI) Once one of those three steps is taken, the printer will be operable again for between 2 and 10 days, at which point the cycle repeats. The root cause appears to be network connectivity issues - the printer appears to have network connectivity issues when under load (the laptop next to the printer does not exhibit any connectivity issues, and the printer is showing full signal). I see excessive avahi logs, as well as the printer's software having trouble getting firmware version information, or hitting its own API, causing it to log large python stack traces. Long term, it would be great to get a more stable network connection, as this has other issues (Cura will frequently not be able to show the status of the print, despite the printer thinking it has a network connection - this will come and go as a print is operating). Short term, monitoring the size of the log directory and removing old files, or modifying the rotation settings would be a great help.
  2. 3 points
    Because I explained it too often within the last days, I made a short video of how to apply glue stick correctly.
  3. 2 points
    Ein bisschen "off-topic" (hier im Ultimaker-Forum), aber egal...: Das ist ziemlich üblich bei diesen günstigen Druckern. Wenn "mesh bed compensation" nicht zur Verfügung steht, bastelt man sich das oft mit ein paar Lagen Klebeband so weit zurecht, das es einigermassen funktioniert. So wie hier in dem Video (ist nur ein Beispiel - davon gibt es massenweise...) Z-Hop würde ich auch wieder ausschalten, der wird eigentlich nur für Delta-Drucker wirklich gebraucht. Schau Dir mal die Hilfetexte zum "Combing Mode" an. Ich glaube der Suchbegriff in der deutschen Version ist "Kamm" oder so ähnlich. (ich glaube, der original-Begriff ist auch schon irreführend - "combining" würde besser passen - aber das ist wohl "historisch gewachsen"...)
  4. 2 points
    Hi, like @MadHatter mentioned, checking the 14mm-gap is the first thing that should be done at the "offset error" - if the diagnosis of the capacitive sensor is positive. The two most helpful things for this are in my oppinion: 1. this youtube-video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2VFp6AqoMg 2. this small tool, provided by @IRobertI: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool (unfortunately, only works with UM3, not with S5 or S3) Regards
  5. 2 points
    in addition: all parts of the print cores are documented (if you want to dig deeper...): https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3#ultimaker-3
  6. 2 points
    Ultimaker Cura 4.7 BETA is available! The development was focused on the Ultimaker Digital Factory and general improvement to Ultimaker Cura and your user experience. So what do we have in store for you this time? Improved search. The wide range of settings you have at your convenience can be a blessing when you want to fully optimize and configure your print strategy. But sometimes it can also be overwhelming. “What was that one setting called again I used the other day? It had something to do with ...” In Cura 4.7 BETA you can search for what a feature does, instead of what it is called. Practically this means you can now search for keywords that match the description of a feature. If you still find it difficult to find certain features, let us know which words you miss in the description in this thread Model error detection. When you upload a model which is not a manifold or contains errors Cura will present you with a pop-up warning. You can go back to your CAD software to correct and retry slicing it in Cura, saving you the time and frustration of discovering the error during printing. Thanks to @fieldOfView, Smartavionics, and @bagel-orb for their contributions to this feature. Adding Cloud printers. Synchronising Ultimaker Cura with the printers you have set up in the Digital Factory became much easier. To add a printer from your print farm in Ultimaker Cura, open Cura and log in into your Ultimaker account. All printers that you have set up in the Digital Factory will be automatically loaded. If you don’t log in, account synchronization can be triggered later via the “Add a Cloud printer button.” A reboot is not needed to install printers. Compared with before, you no longer need to add the printers one by one. We have also fixed over 70 bugs that improve the overall experience and performance of Ultimaker Cura. Among others: Tree-support improvements. Together with moving the tree support out of the Experimental category and into the support type dropdown, we also fixed multiple reported issues where the support branches would interfere with the model, or the support bottom distance was too small, or printing in the vase mode. Initial layer horizontal expansion to compensate for elephant's foot. We adjusted the initial layer horizontal expansion for some profiles. This compensates for Elephant's Foot, a small defect where the bottom of the print has a little ridge where it is molten to the build plate. Discard/keep changes dialog. We improved the wording for more clarity. Do you want more information on new features, bug fixes, and more for Ultimaker Cura 4.7 beta? Visit our github page for a full overview. Do you want to give it a try? You can download it here. And above all; when you give it a try, let us know what you think below!
  7. 2 points
    good morning, it came out amazing - its 0.15layer height, 30% infill, no support. just pretty small failures under the ring, but in general im more then happy. Used ABS for that. Thanks for the support.
  8. 1 point
    You should have no trouble keeping them on the bed. I mean I usually recommend a diameter 1/5 of height so that the part isn't likely to fall over but you can exceed that ratio. here I see 20mm diameter and 300mm tall which is a bit of 1:10 ratio. 1) Put them on the center of the bed. 2) Are these PLA? If so, make sure bed is 60C (should be) and use glue and thin&spread the glue with a wet tissue. This makes it more dilute and more even (thinner is better for getting parts to stick well). 3) Use brim (I see you are in photo) 4) MOST IMPORTANT is to squish. You want that first layer squished really well. Here's a video I made that shows what the first layer should look like (how squished you want it). If parts are coming loose you want more squish:
  9. 1 point
    Ah good to know. How do I disabled my flow sensor and the print managed to finish the pieces, although I did start getting over extrusion at 150% flow. Maybe its a filament compatibility issue, also had some minor bridging so i may reduce the head temp. Thank you for your help I will order some of the correct filament today. -Kieran
  10. 1 point
    Your topic title suggests you have a S3 to sell. However, the S3 was just introduced in fall 2019. Could it be it is an Ultimaker 3? Also, currency, your location / locations you could ship it to, some pictures and details about print core usage, etc. might help you finding a buyer.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Bonjour... Les problèmes de firmware sur UMO viennent souvent lorsqu'on installe un firmware UMO (carte verte) sur une UMO+ (carte blanche) et vice-versa... Mon vieux firmware dispo sur https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ est toujours d'actualité et fonctionne parfaitement sur mon UMO et UMO+ (avec les bonne options bien sûr, ce n'est pas un firmware universel). (Je ne suis pas très présent sur le forum, mais mes UMO tournent toujours, ça a beau être du vieux matériel, ça reste toujours top)
  13. 1 point
    That is possible. You need to use the "Support interface extruder" setting for that.
  14. 1 point
    All clear and dry. I thought it would be done with an explanation at first, too. I can well understand the -rmerlo- and many others here. That's why I like to measure up a little. I cannot explain it. The situation of the people is, like my own, difficult to transfer. You have to experience that yourself. I've been printing many thousands of hours with UM2+ for five years. No problem at all. But the S5 Pro is unfortunately a different matter.
  15. 1 point
    Ok, if you're the type that struggles to set the clock on your microwave, UM's flavor of Cura is for you. But you're flat wrong about S3D not handling dual extruders well. My son and I both have dual machines (mine is similar to UM's - his is dual directs sharing the Xaxis. ) S3D handles them both quite well, which is yet another reason we use it. Cura isn't slow, UM made it that way... Features? you gotta be kidding me.. I already listed some things it won't do... there are others.
  16. 1 point
    Hi @Suffolksails, There is an emergency fix for this, but only works if there is no cracks in the the "black" sliding blocks.. I've been using "post it labels paper" cut to match the width of the block (13 mm or 1/2") actually like a rectangle.. A "shims" like this will increase the clamping and is a permanent solution for my UM2+ (been for 3 yrs). Here's a picture of how I did it. Don't use to much paper around the axe, -if, it will be hard to snap on and the block may crack! Try to adjust so it become like the ones that's ok. Hope this helps until you have got a new replacement. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Vielleicht auch zu berücksichtigen. Der Anycubic i3 Mega hat vier Stellschrauben für den Tisch und eine Glasplatte. Zu stark anziehen darf man die Schrauben am Tisch womöglich auch nicht sonst verspannt sich die Platte. Es sieht jedefalls dannach aus.
  19. 1 point
    Meine Eingebung zum zu Leveln. Eine Aluplatte dehnt sich beim erhitzen und das wird bei der Beschreibung komplett übersehen. Wie macht man es richtig? 1. Erhitze dein Druckbett auf die Bett-Temperatur des Filaments, das du nutzen wirst. 2. Die Düse erhitzt du auch auf die zu dem Filament passende Temperatur. Wenn beides die Temperatur stabil erreicht hat, nimmst du ein ganz ordinäres DIN-A4 Druckerpapier (bedrucktes Papier für die Tonne) und kein Thermo-Papier... 3. Teste an allen 4 Ecken und in der Mitte. Die Höhe ist richtig eingestellt, wenn sich in allen 5 Testpunkten das Papier unter der Nase mit einem leicht hör- und spürbaren Kratzen bewegt, vorzugsweise an jeder Stelle gleichmäßig. Prüfe dies mehrfach, da jede Drehung an den 4 Schrauben die Höhe beeinflusst. Wenn du damit durch bist und die vier Ecken gleich sind, dann sollte auch die Mitte einigermaßen passen, falls nicht: noch mal von vorn, bis du auch in der Mitte ein wenig Grip hast. 5. Nun ein Einlayer-Testdruck - vorzugsweise größer als 20x20 mm. 50x50 wäre schon angebrachter. Der Layer muß (!) gleichmäßig aufgebracht und ohne Lücken sein. Bezüglich Höhendifferenz wäre es von Vorteil, diese Werte auch zu verstehen. Du wirst nirgends eine Floatglas-Scheibe finden, die einen Höhenunterschied von 0,2 mm auf einem 300x300 mm Stück hat! Ich weiß, dass solche Behauptungen immer mal gerne kolportiert werden. Spezialisten leisten besonderes - insbesondere, wenn sie sich Experten nennen. Zum Verständnis, Glasplatten werden in Größen von über 3 m Breite gefertigt. Da darf es dann zwischen ganzen Platten diese Toleranz geben. Wenn du bei einer 300mm Platte eine solche Höhendifferenz hast, hat dir jemand Produktionsabfall verkauft, was eigentlich unmöglich ist, da solcher Schrott sofort wieder in die Wanne als Rohmaterial wandert... In all den Jahren, in denen ich auf Glas drucke, habe ich noch keine einzige Scheibe mit dem Problem gefunden. Ich drucke PET-G fast ausschließlich auf ordinärem Float-Glas, gemeinhin auch Fensterglas genannt (4 oder 6 mm Stärke, i.d.R. Verschnittabfall). Retract: Bei 6 mm ziehst du wahrscheinlich schon Luft in dein Hotend. Ich wiederhole aus meinem vorherigen Post: Messe 120 mm Filament am Anfang des Extruders ab, fördere 100 mm Filament durch das auf die richtige Temperatur eingestellte Düse. Danach messe was von deinen 120mm übrig geblieben ist. Es sollten 20 mm sein. Wenn nicht, musst du entweder die E-Steps anpassen oder den Durchfluss-Faktor korrigieren. Letzteres würde ich machen, wenn man unterschiedliche Filamente und Herstellern nutzt. Ersteres würde ich wahrscheinlich machen, wenn ein Drucker immer nur ein Material benutzt oder die Werte abseits von gut und böse liegen. Z-Sprung: Sei vorsichtig damit, der erhoffte Vorteil kann ganz schnell auch ins Gegenteil drehen. Lass den erst mal weg. Dein Hauptproblem liegt erst mal in den Grundeinstellungen, als da wären: Leveln und Durchflußmenge. Wenn dies passt, kannst du dich um weitere Dinge, wie Filamenttemperaturen, Retract und Druckgeschwindigkeiten kümmern. Deine ersten Druckversuche mache bitte mit langsamer Geschwindigkeit. Schaue nach, was dein Filamentlieferant als niedrigsten Wert vorschlägt und den benutze dann in den Einstellungen des Slicers. Später, wenn alles läuft, kannst du mit diesen Werten experimentieren.
  20. 1 point
    @Enigma_M4 Thanks for this response! I wanted to say that this solution, in regards to the my error message, was hard to find. I am going to print this nice tool.
  21. 1 point
    Press on the fx-icon in front of the Infill Line Distance value
  22. 1 point
    I'm dealing with @tiagomaricate's problem on the OctoPrint forum here: https://community.octoprint.org/t/cant-store-the-print-job-on-the-printer-sd-card-cura-and-octoprint/22864
  23. 1 point
    My username here is @ahoeben. @Aldo is someone else, but Aldo is my first name. @fieldofview is yet another account, that came to be at some point after a forum migration because I also needed an account to upload my plugins to the Ultimaker Marketplace, but I don't use that account. So if you want to ping me on this forum, please use @ahoeben.
  24. 1 point
    As I have already answered on the OctoPrint forum: The message Can't store the printjob on the printer sd card. is shown in Cura when OctoPrint returns a 409 http response code when uploading to the printer sd card. As always, we need logs to see what is going on. In this case, both octoprint.log (from octoprint) and Cura.log (from Cura). Without logs, I can only guess; You cannot store a file on the printer sd card when the printer is printing. You also can not upload a gcode file with the same name as the file that is currently selected in OctoPrint.
  25. 1 point
    This error I found was difficult to get good guidance about. KB about this error had me calibrating the lift switch, looking for a bad connection on the pcb behind the print cores, and the printer itself said, vaguely, check your bed and print cores. Other posts about this error suggested the most obvious things like "is there chunks of material on you build plate". I did not find any of this to be helpful. I called Ultimaker support and the agent suggested that I re-calibrate the axes alignment. I was going to do this but had not printed guides to test the squareness of the rods. I slept on this and realized this had nothing to do with the probe sensor in question as the probe is testing z axes movement. I continued to look for other posts about the nozzle probe and how it works and this led me to this vid about "Ultimaker 3 Error: Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values". This seemed to make some sense to me that over time the adjustment of the build plate could end with running out of z axes headroom so the print core probe bottoms out. This worked for me, and I have had the error before and it just went away before by me taking everything apart and putting it back together. I suggest trying this step if you have this error because it is an easy to do.
  26. 1 point
    Oh, it's FULL of flaws. How about, not having control over where support goes? or being able to select the lateral distance support is from the model?!? Add those to the things I've already listed. Ultimaker's flavor of Cura is pitiful. SO SLOW!!!! takes forever to purge, set height, and table level it's frustrating.. the table is mechanically level, turn off the auto-level! And spewing the purge all over the inside of the machine, later trapping it under the table. I had a Stratasys machine 20 years ago that caught all the purge in a box to be easily emptied later. I shamelessly copied that for my personal machine. It'll take some time to get the FFFs right but I'm wholesale changing R&D machine at work to S3D.
  27. 1 point
    I was in exact the same situation, Building 3d printers, and found my "heaven" in S3D. I hated Cura, because there where so many things missing. But now, in the current status, (UM2, UM3, UM S5), with the current Cura, it works so good!!! For professional use, there is almost no tinkering, just plug and play. Yes S3D is surely better in some ways, but the package Cura + Ultimaker works almost flawlessly.
  28. 1 point
    @WesleyFreitas - sorry this is the english section of the forum. Portuguese only allowed over here: https://community.ultimaker.com/forum/129-other-languages/ So Cura is made by Ultimaker for free. sidewinder is a competitor. But if they create a profile (or if you do) and submit it to the cura team they will include it in a future release of Cura. Maybe ask the sidewinder people to do this for you?
  29. 1 point
    Yes, the sliding blocks and copper bushings get replaced with the belts, they are one assembly. They can be un-assembled, but I wouldn't recommend it. Doesn't look like you're in the US, but here's what the belts should look like for your UM2+ https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/sliding-block-setum2series https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/timing-belt-200-x2
  30. 1 point
    I've had my UM2 (recently upgraded to UM2+) for 5 years and put close to 4k hours on it. You can certainly get more then 5 years out of it.. as long as you stay ahead on your maintenance. The largest maintenance cost will be changing the six belts (<$100 here in the US) which I did at around 3500 hours. Like gr5 said there will be other small maintenance costs that are more regular. I've also been told there's UM2's in the wild that have over 10k hours and are on their fourth set of belts. For a business I'd look at doing a 3-5 year depreciation.
  31. 1 point
    5 years As far as I know they last forever. You might have to spend $100 per year on maintenance ($20 on teflon part every 500-1000 hours and new set of belts every 2000 hours printing). I'm told there are UM2s with 20,000 hours printing on them which is 11 hours a day for 5 years. Wow. I think you could use half that value (10,000) and assume most printers are used 8 hours per day and 5 days per week, 50 weeks per year (which is heavy use - higher than average I suspect). That would be exactly 5 years. 5 years seems like a reasonable depreciation time frame. Even though they will last longer.
  32. 1 point
    The infill will protect the top from collapse. Support goes on the outside to help print things that stick out. There is only the ring on the side of this part that is effected but because of the shape and it doesn't stick out far I think it should be fine without support.
  33. 1 point
    I would print it as is : You don't need much support, so I would give it a try to print without support.
  34. 1 point
    Finished my investigation. Some user accounts were incorrectly marked as Essentials customer by accident, causing all non-verified (security audited) plugins to be filtered out when signed-in to the Marketplace. The team is working on resolving this, so you should be able to see the Thingibrowser, and all other plugins, again in a short while. Please let me know if this is not yet the case by the end of the day.
  35. 1 point
    Hi could be a loose pulley on one of the axles. Check if there is a play according to the instructions on the UM website. There you find also instructions how to fix it, which it is easy.
  36. 1 point
    We're only human 🙂 Thank you for helping out, much appreciated! Edit: and thanks to the others for the input
  37. 1 point
    Happy to hear you are all back up and running fine again 🙂
  38. 1 point
    Nope, but it is an item that's relatively high on the backlog.
  39. 1 point
    Hi rotorhead, Sure this is possible, but leave the original switch in place as it is meant to be used for PCB mounting. Also you don't need a switch that's need to cope with 9.4 Amps, you'll just need a switch that can do 2 Amps! This as the original switch on the PCB only direct power to the DC-DC converter (24 VDC-5 VDC), so this is the power used for the processing part of the board. The power consuming parts is delivered by the power relay mounted on the board, delivering power to heat bed, heat block and all stepper motors + logic in here. Find a switch that match (your style) and make sure to select one with good quality!--- You just need a single pole switch that's connected in parallel with the original power switch (that's to be in selected off position), then you only use your remote located as power switch. I've made a copy from the UM2 (where the power switch is involved) for you to see how it can be done. This picture shows where to connect the "remote" switch in the wiring. This picture show the location of power switch and used pins (1 and 2) looking into the pcb when still installed in the printer. So no need to do to much here, but need some skill to solder this correct. Hope this will do. Good luck. Torgeir
  40. 1 point
    PR created, https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/pull/1301
  41. 1 point
    If the brass got red hot then beware that it will be softer going forwards which doesn't affect printing but means you have to be careful when changing nozzles. Try not to go over 1 Nm of torque. For example if you use a 7mm socket but no wrench - just socket in your fingers - 1Nm is about the limit of torque an average adult can produce using absolutely all your finger strength. I can't quite get 1Nm.
  42. 1 point
    I have another request - show more info but rather in the Monitor tab in Cura and/or in the browser based Print Jobs tab. It would help to see temperatures (bed+hotend) and material remaining (at least when using Ultimaker material). This could be shown in a popup window when clicking or tapping the nozzle number or the build plate icon. Showing how much material is left would help diagnose remotely (be able to see why the machine paused or if the material will run out) and temperatures would help monitor the heat up and cooldown phases, also would give a way to confirm that the basic print settings are correct without actually being beside the printer. Obviously these things are just nice-to-haves and less important to me than the other limitations we are currently experiencing but IMO it would be a simple task to add this to the web interface.
  43. 1 point
    OMG - Why is @FendrychDesign and I the only people who see this serious problem!!!! I complained about this issue A LOT early on when Cura 2.X came out. It STILL DRIVES ME CRAZY. Okay here is the problem with keep/discard. It is unclear if the question is asking about the new profile or the old profile. That's it. That's the entire problem. Let's say I was on profile A. I changed the temp. Now I load profile B. It pops up the keep/discard question. It used to be worse - the wording is better but still confusing. So here are possibilities "Keep" will modify profile A. Is that what it does? No. It makes sense that this is what one would expect though. "Keep" will copy the overrides that I just did into profile B. Is that what it does? No. "Keep" will load profile B and override the same settings you did on profile A. Bingo! "Discard" will leave profile A alone (not save changes). True but that's not the intended meaning. "Discard" will not apply overrides/changes to profile B. YES - this is what actually happens. Instead it should say something like "discard/Apply" or "transfer". "Apply will apply/transfer your customizations to this new profile without actually updating the new profile permanently". The key thing missing in the whole description is which profile (a or b / new or old) is being modified.
  44. 1 point
    I think that "ring" on your last cold pull pic should probably not be there? (See the very left border of the pic.) Long ago I have seen a short video of a coupler that did not fit well, and molten filament came in-between nozzle and coupler, pushing the coupler up like a hydraulic cylinder. I don't remember the cause, but this could happen if there is burned residue sitting between nozzle and coupler, so there is a gap. You might want to check that? But I also think you should double-check if the third fan keeps running well while printing. Worn-out or dirty fans might start well, and then slow down or stop, or vice-versa. Not saying this is the cause, but I would double-check it. For nozzle-cleaning, I also think you should wait *much* longer for the nozzle to cool down, so that the inner core of the filament totally solidifies and comes back to room temp. Then wiggle and try to rotate *gently*, before pulling. This helps dislodging dirt from the nozzle. Then I reheat the nozzle to about 75°C (for PLA), while *gently* pulling and rotating the filament, until it comes out. I never use brute force, only very gentle wiggling, rotating and pulling. And longer waiting cycles. See my very old manual on atomic pulls here (I should update it...): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Typically my cold pulls look like these below. The bottom orange one is best. For the top one, I did not wait long enough, the core wasn't totally solid yet. If there is burned residu on the walls of the nozzle that I can't get out with pulls, then I *very gently* scrape the inner core with an M3 threaded rod, with rounded end to not damage the core. Never use steel: this is too hard for brass nozzles. Very gently scraping; this is on an UM2. Not sure if this is a good idea on other printer models though... Also note that this is not an official method, just my own thing; I am not related to the Ultimaker-company and not an official spokesperson. Other puls: the white one shows a totally worn-out teflon coupler (UM2), indicated by the thick blob or "ring". This does cause underextrusion too, and needs replacement. If there would have been a gap between coupler and nozzle, the "ring" would have been where the dark line now is on the white one. On an UM2, then the whole nozzle would need to be disassembled to clean that (I don't know about other models).
  45. 1 point
    What is that? Thanks for your feedback. @SandervG, your are saying "warm" water, so as your are from Ultimaker, do I take it that there is no specified optimal temperature in the material specs or from laboratory tests? So I take from your replies, that there is no simple way got solve the glibbery leftover bits in the corners, holes and cavities without manual intervention. It funny. The first consumer SLA guys came up with extra UV curing devices all customers needed to buy after a few years. Are we looking here for new devices to remove PVA support? I am a bit surprise by that issue. I just see all these images with meter over meter of shelfs full of Ultimaker printers printing in "Printing farms". Are behind those shelfs long tables where low-cost workers manually move containers with water over hours and then finish off the last corners of industrial parts with toothbrushes in order to remove the support? Obviously that no one would like to put up an image like that 😉 Seriously, this is quite a limitation of PVA that I find quite unexpected - your page just lists steps to remove "Breakaway". By saying nothing about a prodecure for PVA you create the (high) user expectation that it is just "throw in water and done". Needing something like 10-20l of warm water and regular manual intervention over hours plus final manual corner cleaning to remove the support from about some 30 grams of netto print is quite a procedure. To be honest, I find that a bit disappointing. Maybe its because dual heads and thus the ability to print solvable support was the prime reason to get an Ulitmaker device in the first place. And that is when the device is realling doing a much better job in some areas than expected. Now, I would not like to give up so soon. Would it be worth to experiment with aectone, oils, acids, lyes, vinegar, detergents like toilet cleaner, automotive brake cleaner, petroleum, isopropyl alcohol, etc, or has that all been tried?
  46. 1 point
    Yes, Cura 4.6 opens the file and gives the "Your Model is not manifold" error, but the print seems to come out fine. Probably because the error is in some place not visible or because it is a very small problem. In the course of researching this issue, I came across a free online service (Jomatik) that corrects these Holes and other issues with 3D files making them ready for 3D Printing. Check the following link. Just drag and drop your file there and it instantly repairs it. Well.... atleast it did mine. 🙂 The file now loads up in Cura without any errors. https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php
  47. 1 point
    I ran into the same problem. This did the trick, for me: Make sure there is no cura.exe process running, by looking in Task Manager (or just rebooting to be sure). Go into .../AppData/Roaming/cura/4.4 (or whatever version you are running) Delete cura.lock, if it is there. If it is not there, and Cura is not running, then this isn't the problem for you. There is no risk, at all, in deleting that file. It gets created at runtime and is really only valid while Cura is running. If it doesn't get deleted when Cura exits, it will cause the package manager to hang. Hope this helps.
  48. 1 point
    For special models and difficult to reach areas, you could model the supports in CAD in the design itself. Then you have full control and you can adjust it to your needs. See these examples for my single nozzle UM2 printers (I have no experience with dual nozzle): A few different support concepts I have used: some with extensions, so I can grab the support with pliers; some with holes to insert pins to pull the support out, some with layers that peel off easily, some with several tiny blocks instead of one big block so I can wiggle each tiny part loose, some with overhangs to improve the first real layer of the bridge, etc... These pink and orange supports extend from the model, so I can grab them with pliers, because the model is too small to get in there with a knife. Also they have a custom brim (footplate) for better sticking to the glass due to their huge overhangs: I do not want them to be knocked off when the overhangs curl up and the nozzle bangs into them. The ribs on top reduce the contact area and make removal easier, and they reduce sagging (the blue tray has to slide in the yellow part). These supports hang to the side-walls, so they don't reach all the way down. This is usefull if you want to reduce the amount of support material, or if you don't want the lower surfaces to be damaged by supports. The concept is based on an idea from another user (was that "smartavionics"?). The bottom layers of the center support bridge will sag a lot, but that does not matter, as they are discarded anyway. The inverted staircase shape reduces curling-up of the overhanging edges of the supports.
  49. 1 point
    I've never seen a nozzle I can't unclog (by the way I sell 3dsolex parts in USA). If you need to take your UM core apart to unclog it, as a last resort, you can follow the instructions in this video I made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_tMz8Dwd0 how to properly unclog a core (hot pull, cold pull): https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clogged-print-core
  50. 1 point
    If you really want you can program the AA core to think it's a BB core. UM seems to think it will clog more easily but like kman says - what do you have to lose? If you want to disassemble your core to get at the nozzle more easily or to swap nozzles (with what though?) then here is a video instructing you how to do this that I created: If you want to make your AA cores think they are BB (otherwise the printer refuses to send PVA through it) then here are instructions: Frist put your UM3 into developer mode - it's in the menus on the UM3. Your machine needs to be on your network (wifi or ethernet) if it isn't already. Once it's on the network it will show the IP address at the top of the main screen. Next you need ssh which is built into linux and Macintosh terminal but not windows. For windows I recommend putty: https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html In putty you don't type the "ssh" part but just put the ultimaker@111.222.333.444 part and click "open". ssh ultimaker@ (don't enter - enter the ip address listed on your UM3) username/password: ultimaker/ultimaker (much easier than root/ultimaker as it takes you straight into the utility to do sendgcode) Choose the type and size from the list below - T0 is left slot and T1 is right slot so before running any of these make sure the core you want to program is in the left slot if it will be AA and in the right slot if it will be BB After programming the core, slide it out and back into the slot at which point the UM3 will re-read the eeprom and realize it's new state. The software that does X,Y,Z offset calibrations for a core goes by serial number and that can't be changed so you shouldn't lose any calibration data when you do the below changes. AA 0.4 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 BB 0.4 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3400000000 AA 0.8 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3800000000 BB 0.8 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3800000000 AA 0.25 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3235000000 BB 0.25 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3235000000 AA 0.4 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 BB 0.4 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3400000000 AA 0.6 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3600000000 BB 0.6 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3600000000 AA 0.8 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3800000000 BB 0.8 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3800000000
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