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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/30/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Well, I used Misumi extrusions (link in the BOM), which are custom cut to your custom requirements, so all the extrusions will be fitted at their end points. Additionally, the 3D printed parts (frame brackets and gantry brackets) help square the corners. A bracket is fitted on the top/bottom and all 4 sides of the frame. I built the frame in 2 pieces and married them together. The instructions show this process. Since all the X/Y-axis extrusions fit together at the end of all Z-axis extrusions, the process of squaring things up is just a matter of using the brackets to hold the pieces together. The gantry brackets further enforce the frame is squared up for the gantry. After the frame is all bolted together, the rest of the assembly is practically the same as the UM2. It was insanely easy and it was dead-on accurate right out of the gate. The only thing I needed to spend time on was getting the steps right for the extruder. I was using a 1.8 degree steps and running 1.75mm filament, so I printed a calibration piece on the UM2 and dialed on the new printer until they looked the same. At this point, I can swap the SD card from machine to machine and get identical results.
  2. 1 point
    I've been following this dual extrusion discussion for some weeks now. The more I read the more I get the impression that the usual approach doesn't fit for UMs at all. Too bulky, too heavy and so many well known flaws, like oozing and having the second nozzle knocking down prints. It simply makes no sense to me to carry around a second hotend all the time. So I suggested independently moving heads or a tool changing mechanism like CNC machines are using. I couldn't resist ... Just a proof of concept right now but way better then I expected: 0.0 positioning play within the mount, more than enough clamping force, no additional actuators needed C'mon, if I can get this far in two days ...
  3. 1 point
    I'm looking for information on the CPE filament by UM, Product & Safety data sheet. thanks
  4. 1 point
    Daid a fait le taf : on peut maintenant choisir l'ordre d'impression des murs et du remplissage dans la version 15.04 dans les réglages en mode expert La v 15.01 a bouleversé l'ordre d'impression murs/remplissage (perimeter/infill) en commençant par le remplissage puis les murs ce qui causait pour certains prints l'apparition de la trame de remplissage à la surface de l'objet. cf. ce topic La version 15.04 introduit la possibilité de choisir l'ordre d'impression, soit : murs puis remplissage ou remplissage puis murs ça c'est cool.
  5. 1 point
    What was the bed temperature with PET? Might have a bigger influence on distortion than the hotend temperature.
  6. 1 point
    My various paint tests.
  7. 1 point
    Hello, Bon... je trouve que tu t'en sors pas mal pour quelqu'un de totalement perdu! T' as déjà réussi à poster un topic C'est un bon début non? ++
  8. 1 point
    The trick does work perfectly. Testing priming boxes. Works fine. Just had a small problem because Simplify3D doesn't take in account that the other process does exists, so it did drop some filament because he though that the area was 'empty'. Dual extruder really needs more intelligent slicers. This to be really clean just need to change 2 thinks on the configuration. - Remove the wiping boxes that go in last order - Remove the tall brim/skirt because when going from skirt-to-skirt Simplify3D does not retract and it almost ruins the print (no biggie). - I need to make a better X/Y sequence, there's one of the positons that isn't perfect and I had 1 layer that was displaced, but it was fixed with the homming I do between changes, only 1 fail on 67 layers, but that's just means that I need better X/Y sequence. Enjoy the video and hopefully on sunday I'll upload everything. Btw this was printed on 0.1 layer at 80-70mm/s (except the first layers ofc) PLA green and blue from formfutura (blue leaks more than green). Also there's a tiny little bit of understrusion on the first layer blue just because the priming boxes where waaaaay too small. Edit: Printed this model and scaled it 0.5 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/stargate-dual-color-print
  9. 1 point
    Good Question Sander! You are concerned we will get too many notifications. Agree, but here is the deal: The activity is now so low, so there will be time for you to "consolidate" the email notifications.. Best I think, is to ONLY notify when there is PM and new Reply. Forget the likes and quotes. We will see when we click email link. You never have to email about likes etc... You must include the pm text in the email notification, and when click link bring me direct to input screen.
  10. 1 point
    Hi, it´s been a long time... So here are a few pictures of my latest project. This is a Ma.K "Fliege". I bought a plastic kit from japan and it was a little too small (1:20). I build a new one with 3dsmax and printed it with my ultimaker2. [/media][/media]
  11. 1 point
    Hi, I have enormous problems printing Ultimaker Flex PLA. I think the root cause is related to the bed leveling, or more precise the distance between bed and nozzle. If I level the bed with a sheet of paper, it seems that the nozzle is too close to the bed and the pressure that the feeder can put on the flexible filament is not enough to properly extrude the first layer. The nozzle gets clogged and the feeder eventually grinds into the filament and thats it. I use IRobertI's feeder and have also oiled the bowden a little and if I use the Maintenance --> Advanced --> Move Material function, the extrusion works perfect. Just when printing, it fails. I tried doing the bed leveling with a 0.10mm thickness gauge in case my paper is too thin, but that seems to be too much gap. The extruded filament is not pressed properly onto the bed, so it is not sticking to it and corners are straightened out to lines. It looks more like laying out a hose than extruding :( What can I do? Reiner
  12. 1 point
    I want to print as fast as possible using Ultimaker 2. I have experience with ABS and PLA and I found that Ultimaker 2 is capable of making good quality prints using ABS at 150 mm/s but I was unlucky to reach the same quality using PLA at 150 mm/s. On the contrary, I found on the internet that a 3d printer can reach higher printing speeds when it uses PLA filaments. PLA is preferred for me due to purpose of the printed items. So my question is using what filament PLA or ABS Ultimaker 2 can print faster? And how?
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