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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/2015 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Only had the UM2 a few weeks but I am starting to get the hang of it now! This is a dummy engine for a 1/3 scale Fokker D.VII. The exhaust system is printed in Colorfabb XT black and produced in sections to make fitting to the engine easier. Joints were made with wood dowel and cyano glue followed by filler resin to fill the gaps. I have just started painting it now. It will have rough weld joints and hopefully look pretty rusty by the time I have vinished with it. The main engine has some 3D printed parts though not with the Ultimaker, they were produced with sintered Nylon by a print house.
  2. 2 points
    @jonnybischof: This issue should be corrected this week, there are currently some tests on a beta version of the forum that should correct some of the bugs that are reported. This one is part of it
  3. 1 point
    Here's some first impression feedback... Mobile > I really like the ability to go to the last page of the thread on the mobile version of the forum! wanted this for a long time.. Readability > After a few hours (ok I will give it more time..) I think the readability is a lot worse than it was before, not sure whats causing it, maybe the overkill in colored dots, or the huge spacing between everything... think my main wishes for now would be; - remove the repetition of the first post on every page. (also terrible on mobile, to much scrolling) - add the "go to page numbers" also on the top of the page. quick access; I used to get a quick overview of whats new by looking at ONE start page, I would really like to get this back, please add the last post & date to every topic on the main overview page. Search > I used to get good search results with advanced google (search in the forum domain) I hope this is not permanently damaged now its on a new domain. Tried the "in site search" , first impression results are crap, hope this will improve over time but I'm afraid the history is gone. Please add a "back to forum" button on the top of the search result page. Please let me filter out undesired languages in search. General > It seems some web / youtube links work and some don't ??? Assume you'll fix it also on old pages ...
  4. 1 point
    As many other UMO owners I was looking for a clever way to fix the 8mm x/y rods without getting a lot of abrasion resulting in black greasy dust at the endcaps and no play of the rods. The solution was actually presented in 2013 by Ultimaker on the UM2. The pulleys fix the rods with spacers from the inside. In order to make this working the bearings have to be kept in place by the side panel. The panels on the UM2 have an opening just large enough to let the rod pass at assembling. The UMO frame is different. There is just one big hole for the bearing and nothing that would keep the bearing in place - except the end caps. Sometimes the distance between the two end caps of one rod is larger than the rod itself. The result is significant play which ruins print quality. Quite a number of modified end caps deal with the problem by using e.g. screws to fix the rod from the outside. But even with special screws which have a ball at their tip one always gets abrasion. What do you need? 1. A little bit of time 2. Printed spacers 3. 'End caps' with an opening for the rods How do you do it? 1. Measure the distance between the outermost pulleys and the inner wall of adjacent wodden panel. This gives you eight numbers. 2. Add 0.7-0.8mm to each of them. This is the difference in thickness of the bearing and the wodden panels. 3. Scale the length of the spacer to these eight modified lengths and print them. 4. Print eight exemplaries of the open end caps (you may try to use the wodden end caps with hole you mounted on the inside of the wodden pannels, then you just need another two; if you have a direct drive which keeps two of the eight bearings in place from the outside, you don't even need any of the open end caps). 5. Remove the print head and all rods but leave the bearings in their holes. 6. Clean the rods (if your rods rather ressemble bananas, this might be a good time to replace them ) 7. Dismount any endcaps which may be still mounted to the wodden frame. 8. Mount the open end caps on the outside of the wodden panels. Do not mount any open end cap on the inside! 9. Re-assemble the rods: a) Slide a rod in from one side b) Slide the first spacer over the rod on the inside of the bearing (make sure you take one with correct length for this position) c) Slide a pulley over the rod; don't forget the timing belt! It should look now like this: d) Slide the corresponding x/y block over the rod. e) Complete the 'sandwich' with the pulley on the opposite side and the corresponding spacer. f) Push the rod into the bearing on the opposite side. 10. Fix the rods by fixing the pulleys and re-mount the print head. And then, enjoy friction-less and accurate printing...
  5. 1 point
    After several months without any 3D printing at all I finally found the time to fix some issues with my latest project. So this is my modular printhead, now fitted with a direct extruder: a NEMA 8 stepper with a 1:40 worm gear, MK8 drive gear, 0.55 amp stepper current, microstepping set to 2, 760 steps/e. As expected, retraction works like a charm. Torque hasn't been an issue so far but the weakness of several idler arm designs. Right now it's reliable running with approx 70 mm/s @ 0.2 mm layer height. I didn't try to push it further as i'm printing some christmas gifts. Please don't look at the wiring :oops:
  6. 1 point
    Picking up an idea from here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo?page=5#reply-108156 If you didn't follow the linked discussion: The Trinamic TMC2130 stepper motor driver has a feature called StallGuard2 which detects when the motor stalls, and reports that to the controller. For now, these drivers aren't available as a ready kit for 3D printers (Note, the Silent StepSticks use the TMC2100 which doesn't have the SG2 feature), and there is no firmware support for the feature. But that could both be arranged, if there is any actual use for it. ------------------------------------------ Let's say our motor drivers were able to detect and report stalled motors. Could - and should - this feature be used to simplify the homing process on a 3D printer? Meaning: Instead of using a limit switch as an endstop, just let the gantry bump into a defined obstacle and have the motor driver report the stall. --> Any negative effects on the... motors? drivers? gantry mechanics? homing precision? ...? ------------------------------------------ Motors: Stalling a stepper motor doesn't have a negative effect on the motor itself. At least not if it's only for a short time. Drivers: The Trinamic drivers with SG2 functionality don't have a problem with stalled motors. The feature wouldn't make much sense otherwise... Gantry mechanics: A hard "crash" should be avoided. Maybe rubber bumpers can be used? Homing precision: There is actually no need for super-precise XY homing, because the position of the printed object on the build plate doesn't need to be accurate or repeatable to 0.001mm. 0.5 to 1mm repeatability would be enough. The Z axis is another matter entirely, as it does in fact need very precise and repeatable homing. A hard and precise bumper would be necessary. I doubt that the Ultimaker's leadscrew mechanics will give a precise result, even if there is a hard endstop. Any torsion in the coupling (for those who use a flexible shaft coupling - no go) or maybe even in the leadscrew itself would have a negative impact on precision / repeatability. Another thing: Homing could sound a little ugly. Wouldn't be a real concern, but if people think there's something wrong, it might be a problem... ------------------------------------------ Why bother at all? Why not use a driver's feature if it's readily available? It's useful for detecting stalled motors, for example due to things like people's hands obstructing the gantry. The material savings aren't great, but you can actually save some material costs. More importantly though, you can save some wiring inside the printer, facilitating the machine's design and shortening assembly time. Now that is a reason to bother!
  7. 1 point
    I will on Thursday, currently we are in the last steps of testing and implementing any required fixes. Thursday we will go live, and I will use that opportunity to create a list of what survived beta testing and what was added. I will update this page.
  8. 1 point
    Not as simple as that... "# Layer xx" is as you say a comment, it is what Cura does, but there is no guarantee that it will be there if you are using another slicer. So you have to look at the Z movements to make up you mind. And also, layer is not necessarily a good representation of time, depending on the complexity. Some layers take much more time... So after all, looking at the percentage of GCode actually printed is definitely not a bad option and in my view much better than number of layers.
  9. 1 point
    Je vis depuis quelques années en Chine où je bosse dans l'industrie. La réputation d'usine du monde de la Chine n'est pas usurpée: TOUT est fait ici. Notamment beaucoup de choses qu'on achète ensuite comme du Made In France, Made in Germany...etc. Les produits Apple sont quasi parfaits, et tout est fait ici. Donc quand on achète en Chine, on en a pour son prix tout simplement. 2-3 fois moins cher qu'une marque reconnue: OK, il y a toujours de forte chance que la qualité soit au rendez-vous, économie sur le marketing et on ne paie pas "la marque". 10-100 fois moins cher, il faut commencer à s'attendre à des choses rigolotes... Pas d'autre choix que de tester donc. Ensuite le pb c'est que les revendeurs changent eux-memes de fournisseurs dans le temps, donc pour assurer la stabilité de la qualité c'est encore une autre paire de manche si on ne travaille pas en direct avec le fabricant.
  10. 1 point
    50mm/sec .2mm layer .4 nozzle is 4mm^3/sec. Which is really pusing it at 210C. And some temp sensors read high so you might actually be closer to 205C or even 200C. If you really want to print this fast I recommend 240C which works great at these relatively high (but still reasonable) printing volumes. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. If you want to print parts much faster than this then I recommend getting a larger nozzle such as a .6mm nozzle.
  11. 1 point
    Finished this weekend. You can download the stl at: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/alien-bust-3878 but my print has more details, because i resculpted them in zbrush.
  12. 1 point
    I mostly print nylon with my UMO. I've printed Oregon brand Gatorline trimmer line, Taulman 618, and 3ntr PA6. The only one I can't get to work well is 3ntr, because the layer to layer bonds are too weak and part strength suffers (even at nozzle temps as high as 275 C at only 25 mm/sec.) I like to print the others at about 260 C for maximum layer bonding strength, typically using 0.100 layers and nice and slow 25 mm/sec speed. Even printing infill at 40 mm/sec results in a weaker part and my motivation for using nylon in the first place is high part strength (and occasionally its lubricity and chemical and solvent resistance). The only build surface material that I've found that is satisfactory for large parts is machineable Garolite--and you will have to machine it (or sand it forever on a flat glass plate) to get it really flat, which I highly recommend. Shrinkage and bed adhesion challenges make printing ABS seem like child's play, in comparison to nylon. A bed that's +/- 0.002" (or about +/- a phonebook page of paper) in flatness still deviates more than a 0.100 mm layer height and really isn't flat enough! For good results, 0.001" in level/flatness or better is necessary.
  13. 1 point
    Glass contact is OK. Glas temp is around 60. Brim helpen on a smaller part. Still must try on a bigger thing. Now for the promissed design: it is the proto and demo version of the board of a board game. Two identical parts, with thwo small hinges. Two screws keep the two parts together. Two small magnets keep the board closed. The stones, 14 in total, are kept within the box. The whole closed box is 130x105x50 mm. One half, bottom side. Two halfs together with hinges. Ready to play.
  14. 1 point
    - FINAL DESIGN - (well at least the first working version) There's room for improvement on the software side and it might need accessories bla bla bla https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-plus-dual-extrusion-magnetic-head-changer There's a PDF with 8 pages of instructions and stuff for starting gcode, toolchange, etc etc. Enjoy ! Link to the PDF https://www.youmagine.com/documents/25718/download
  15. 1 point
    Well, I used Misumi extrusions (link in the BOM), which are custom cut to your custom requirements, so all the extrusions will be fitted at their end points. Additionally, the 3D printed parts (frame brackets and gantry brackets) help square the corners. A bracket is fitted on the top/bottom and all 4 sides of the frame. I built the frame in 2 pieces and married them together. The instructions show this process. Since all the X/Y-axis extrusions fit together at the end of all Z-axis extrusions, the process of squaring things up is just a matter of using the brackets to hold the pieces together. The gantry brackets further enforce the frame is squared up for the gantry. After the frame is all bolted together, the rest of the assembly is practically the same as the UM2. It was insanely easy and it was dead-on accurate right out of the gate. The only thing I needed to spend time on was getting the steps right for the extruder. I was using a 1.8 degree steps and running 1.75mm filament, so I printed a calibration piece on the UM2 and dialed on the new printer until they looked the same. At this point, I can swap the SD card from machine to machine and get identical results.
  16. 1 point
    Good Question Sander! You are concerned we will get too many notifications. Agree, but here is the deal: The activity is now so low, so there will be time for you to "consolidate" the email notifications.. Best I think, is to ONLY notify when there is PM and new Reply. Forget the likes and quotes. We will see when we click email link. You never have to email about likes etc... You must include the pm text in the email notification, and when click link bring me direct to input screen.
  17. 1 point
    - And free Beer! This is how: I will be at the print show in London, close to UM booth on Friday. Buying me a beer earns you 3 free Nozzles. I decide when to quit. If I cannot decide, deal goes off. Carrying me to Regents Park afterwords earns you a free Hot End, ( not mine ), but one from Olsson. Thanks! Hope the wizards & oldies in here don`t ban me for this... eh.. hic!
  18. 1 point
    Yes you can. quite a few people print with it. there are some found here: http://www.blackmagic3d.com/Nylon-s/1815.htm if you click on the one you want then select printing parameters tab, this will give you recommended settings to use for that filament. Use those settings for starters then adjust from there to get the desired results your after.
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