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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/02/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I guess the cat's out of the bag so to speak. The ring is a new addition which is an attempt to prevent filament from getting between the nozzle and the fan shroud. It goes into the hole in the fan shroud from the top and is held in place by the nozzle+heaterblock. It started getting added to machines very very recently.
  2. 2 points
    Another supplier for rubber tumblers: http://www.ukge.com/en-GB/5lb-Rubber-Barrel-for-Stones__p-1179.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjwqLWrBRC-_OaG-IfL0kASJAAbzKsV8ABGKDu0VItVIaJiRa41Mk4_IgYQv7yZ5RBWKKoZAhoCl4_w_wcB I will download the files shortly onkelgeorg, naturally I will vote Thank you for sharing.
  3. 2 points
    Here it is: http://www.instructables.com/id/Affordable-Rock-Tumbler/ Your vote is appreciated
  4. 1 point
    As many other UMO owners I was looking for a clever way to fix the 8mm x/y rods without getting a lot of abrasion resulting in black greasy dust at the endcaps and no play of the rods. The solution was actually presented in 2013 by Ultimaker on the UM2. The pulleys fix the rods with spacers from the inside. In order to make this working the bearings have to be kept in place by the side panel. The panels on the UM2 have an opening just large enough to let the rod pass at assembling. The UMO frame is different. There is just one big hole for the bearing and nothing that would keep the bearing in place - except the end caps. Sometimes the distance between the two end caps of one rod is larger than the rod itself. The result is significant play which ruins print quality. Quite a number of modified end caps deal with the problem by using e.g. screws to fix the rod from the outside. But even with special screws which have a ball at their tip one always gets abrasion. What do you need? 1. A little bit of time 2. Printed spacers 3. 'End caps' with an opening for the rods How do you do it? 1. Measure the distance between the outermost pulleys and the inner wall of adjacent wodden panel. This gives you eight numbers. 2. Add 0.7-0.8mm to each of them. This is the difference in thickness of the bearing and the wodden panels. 3. Scale the length of the spacer to these eight modified lengths and print them. 4. Print eight exemplaries of the open end caps (you may try to use the wodden end caps with hole you mounted on the inside of the wodden pannels, then you just need another two; if you have a direct drive which keeps two of the eight bearings in place from the outside, you don't even need any of the open end caps). 5. Remove the print head and all rods but leave the bearings in their holes. 6. Clean the rods (if your rods rather ressemble bananas, this might be a good time to replace them ) 7. Dismount any endcaps which may be still mounted to the wodden frame. 8. Mount the open end caps on the outside of the wodden panels. Do not mount any open end cap on the inside! 9. Re-assemble the rods: a) Slide a rod in from one side b) Slide the first spacer over the rod on the inside of the bearing (make sure you take one with correct length for this position) c) Slide a pulley over the rod; don't forget the timing belt! It should look now like this: d) Slide the corresponding x/y block over the rod. e) Complete the 'sandwich' with the pulley on the opposite side and the corresponding spacer. f) Push the rod into the bearing on the opposite side. 10. Fix the rods by fixing the pulleys and re-mount the print head. And then, enjoy friction-less and accurate printing...
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Hallo Lutz, ich drucke Material für 1:10 Modelle und bin gerade dabei meinen UM 2 auf den Olsson Block umzurüsten. Ich rüste aber nicht wegen der Druckqualität um, sondern um mit 0.8mm zu drucken. Von der Druckqualität war ich eigentlich recht zufrieden. Kommt halt auf den Anspruch an das Modell an. Druckst du den Roboter so wie er auf der SDCard kam ? Wenn nicht welche Toolchain nutzt du ? Ich habe die Erfahrung gemacht, dass man vieles durch Reperaturfunktionen bzw. Durchsehen in Cura (Schichtansicht) verbessern kann. Den Block gibt es bei @swordriff www.3dsolex.com. Dort gibt es auch ein Einbauvideo von einem der Forenmitglieder. Gerade hat @DidierKlein einen Guide online gestellt, wo der Umbau Schritt für Schritt erklärt wird http://www.ideato3d.be/actualites/install-the-olsson-block-on-your-ultimaker-2/ (Eventuell oben noch auf Englisch umstellen). Der Vorteil des Blocks ist dass man zwischen Düsen wählen kann. Der UM hat ja nur 0.4mm. Der Nachteil ist, dass der Temperatursensor kaputt gehen kann. Bei mir ging der auch nicht raus. Daher habe ich ihn im alten Block gelassen und mir einen neuen Temperatursensor bestellt. Den gibt es übrigens auch bei @swordriff. Gruß, Nils
  7. 1 point
    @valcrow please mark peggyb's first reply as the "correct answer", thanks.
  8. 1 point
    Nice one, Peggy! Good catch. The difference between no fan and a little bit of fan is theoretically infite (0 miles per hour versus 1 miles per hour is more than 2X. It's more than 10X). But of course in reality there is some convection without the fan so there is a tiny bit of wind. But even a very weak fan cools maybe 10X or 100X better than no fan. Getting the fan up to full speed might add another 2X to 4X cooling. Which may be relatively very little improvement. That's why even a very slow fan can make a huge difference. I discovered this years ago when doing temp measurements on an electric part. I was experimenting with different fan speeds and the part never changed temperature. Until the fan was off - then the part got very hot.
  9. 1 point
    Actually the bug fix might be in "normal" "erikZalm" Marlin but it might never have gotten into the ultimaker branches of Marlin. The bug and probably the fix were posted in the erikZalm branch of marlin on github a year or two ago by "Illuminarti" aka "Simon" so it shouldn't be too hard to search for that patch and then see if it got pulled into Daid's versions of Marlin for UMO and/or UM2.
  10. 1 point
    Definitely. There was a bug in Marlin that happened when you moved all 3 axes at the same time. I thought the bug was fixed approximately a year ago but maybe not. The bug meant that it would move some axes faster than they are supposed to move (but again, only if you move all 3 axes at the same time). Normal Cura generated gcode never (or rarely) moves all 3 axes at the same time.
  11. 1 point
    I've never had to change any parts in the UM2 (Apart from teflon part, but you get a spare one), despite it being very easy for me to do so. It could be possible that more extreme conditions (eg; Brazil is a pretty extreme climate compared to ya know, The Netherlands) give you more complications. We do test for that to some extent, but 'our' climate is tested the most, as every engineer at Ultimaker has at least 1 printer that they use to print with. With regards to new stuff; We'd love to share it, but this is sensitive information. I do think that a new machine will not automatically make the old machines useless. Look at the difference between an UMO and the UM2; the UMO can still stand up to its younger brother with regards to print quality / speed, it just needs a lot more tweaking & maintenance.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Finished this weekend. You can download the stl at: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/alien-bust-3878 but my print has more details, because i resculpted them in zbrush.
  14. 1 point
    @gizmo999 -- I'm not sure about Windows, but it should work. MSIE can be a problem, I would recommend using FireFox or Chrome. I am not providing builds other than via the builder there are too many combinations @onkelgeorg -- I'll look into that next time I play with the firmware @drayson -- not sure what your expectations are from the 'stop' function...
  15. 1 point
    I'm sure UM is working on the next printer... but the people here who know details will for sure not be allowed to tell you ... There will always be a next version, you can spend your whole life waiting for it or just start now and have fun and learn..
  16. 1 point
    I know what this could be! check if your fan underneath on the electronics is working. Had this myself lately, and found that a wire had broken from the electronics fan. With another printer the whole fan died…
  17. 1 point
    I think I have solved it! The problem was due to the Z axis slider bearings. The pillars should have NO lubrication on them at all. I had put a spot of light oil on them along with the X & Y slides. I eventually realised that the Z bearings are ball races and lubricating the pillars caused the balls to try and slide rather than rotate. Some slid, some rotated and that is what caused the jamming. After wiping the pillars dry, they began to slide really smoothly. Have done several prints since, all without any of the problem bands. I eventually got the nut undone but that rotated very smoothly. thanks John
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