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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/07/2015 in all areas

  1. https://hackaday.io/project/5023-automatic-print-ejector
    3 points
  2. Dear @theDeugd, @SandervG et all there - you should work 24/7 just to bring back all the basics that were lost. All the detailed explanations, however they are justified in your eyes - are meaningless for us, the end users. The forum I used to love, trust and rely on was gone. Now it looks like it is going to come back. Please make the comeback sooner than later. Before it is too late. Well, at least for the UM people I met at 3d printshow London (@SandervG being one of them) I had the impression they would actually work 24/7 to improve the forum if this would make sense (it's not Sander who is coding the forum ... ) You may have the impression that improvement need some time to appear here. You're right. Because they are thoroughly tested by forum members before. Theses beta tests are something UM missed on the initial launch but introduced after the shitstorm and fruitful discussion with various forum members. And the beta testing goes on. UM is well aware that it should not take too long for improving the forum. And I must say it's quite ok what they have done in the last few weeks. Especially if you consider that there is a second, even larger software project in beta test phase (the new Cura).
    2 points
  3. I agree with others. This site is much more navigable now. Thanks for working on it!
    2 points
  4. Hi everyone, I installed new pulleys and belts (GT2) on my Ultimaker Original and - at first - didn't recognized any difference . But when you take a photo through a macrolens you can see how much difference there actually is: size: MXL: GT2: The other settings where exactly the same, therefore i really really can recommend it to everyone that owns an UMO. You have to change the steps/mm to 80.00! (thanks ) Have a nice day, Ataraxis
    1 point
  5. Yeah, that's probably better than drilling. . . . . just need to work around the LED strips, the're glued to the front panel, but I can make something to fit over them.
    1 point
  6. Hallo NicoLinux, aktuell bin ich dabei die Druckqualität zu optimieren. Ich habe den Olsson Block und habe mich an 0.8er Düse mit 0,1 mm Druckhöhe versucht. Das scheint nicht so ohne weiteres zu gehen. Nun werde ich mal die 0,6er Düse probieren. Bei den Feedern gibt es ja so viele verschiedene, fast so unübersichtlich wie bei den Lüfterabdeckungen .... Daran werde ich mich aber erst wagen, wenn die Druckqualität stimmt und S3D ähnlich gute Ergebnisse liefert wie Cura Gruß, Nils
    1 point
  7. Sorry, but I'm not a coder. What I can contribute is a couple of specific requests for Cura. I did get a response from Daid last year, indicating a total lack of interest in the issue. I'm well aware that the start/end-points can never be completely eliminated, but the way Cura goes to the "nearest" start-point makes it impossible to use for rounded objects - the results are random vertical scars that drunkards-walk up the sides of the piece in disjointed unpredictable pieces - seriously ugly. It's worth noting that Kisslicer, Slic3r, and Simplify3D all have decent approaches to this issue built-in. IMHO, what Cura needs to be competitive with the other three competing programs in this respect, i.e. the ability to print round objects, is: - A random start-point choice that distributes the blivets at random around the periphery. I'm aware that this would slow the print, but the choice should be up to the user. - A feature that allows the user to specify where the start-points should be, as an angle relative to the Y-axis. This would permit the user to choose where on the print the scar can best be hidden from view. - An expanded angle feature as Kisslicer has, with the ability to choose a range of angles within which the blivets are randomly distributed.
    1 point
  8. Filament wiper addon. I need to improve it so it's easier to remove without compromising how steady it is.
    1 point
  9. Good suggestion! I was advised of this spam message and the user was banned, but it took a user (thanks to him) to take some time to copy paste the message and pm it to me.
    1 point
  10. It also differs between fans. Some come on earlier than others.
    1 point
  11. The fans need around 25% to 30% to get started. Once moving you can lower to around 20%. Maybe even lower. There is a feature that if you go from *off* to 20% it over powers the fans at 100% for a half second or so then lowers to 20%. This works great and jumpstarts them but if the first layer is 5% and the second layer is 10% it only jumps 0-5% and not 5-10% so the fans don't come on until around 30%. by the way the % represents the duty cycle. So if the fan is at 50% that means it is at full power/voltage for half the time and off the other half the time. The cycle is 5 to 10 times per second. Same method for setting power to the heater in the nozzle.
    1 point
  12. Okay reading around - I'm not sure - but I think you push down on those orange parts with a screwdriver against a spring. Then slide in the wire and release. edit: original poster confirmed this works (see his post below).
    1 point
  13. Ok many thanks but questions remain... - TG ? - Strength to chemicals ? - optimal print setting ?
    1 point
  14. I got this info from Ultimaker support: ---- Printing with CPE has its pro's and con's, please see below: Con's: You need to print CPE on higher temperatures just like ABS. (240/250) Printing on higher temperatures will cause the PTFE to wear out faster and that is why we included one when you purchase a spool of CPE. CPE has just like ABS the tendency to warp, a heated camber may help reduce this. Pro's: CPE is just as strong as ABS. It does not have any dangerous fumes or strange odeur. It has nice bright colors.
    1 point
  15. === PROJECT SUMMARY === Here's a summary of the project for UM2, to make it a bit easier for you if you want to try this yourself. Let me know if I missed anything. I'll put the design files on YouMagine. Mechanically this hack is simple, for the first head you don't need to touch the electronics, just dismantle the old head remove the black plastic parts and put together on the magnetic head. You'll need to glue magnets in the pickup and head parts, pay attention to the polarity of the magnets. I used superglue (Cyanoacrylate), after cleaning the magnets with alcohol. I got my magnets at "magnetenspecialist.nl" blockmagnets of 10x5x4mm (quality N50 whatever that means..) For the 2th head I took the easy option, just connected the PT100, heater and 2th extruder motor to the Ultimaker board and powered the 5 volt hot end fan from an external PSU and the 2x12Volt=24V side fans to an external controllable PSU. I'm planning on upgrading the "docking stations" to a more "click on - click off" design, but for now the mounting with tape holds up nicely. Glue the 2 parts of a dock together, I used superglue (Cyanoacrylate). To make some more space on the left of the head you need to change the position of the endstop left-back. You can use this piece for it: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adjustable-home-switch-offset-bracket Firmware (there's probably room for improvement, but this gets it to work): This is all provided you use the original UM2 components, like the PT100 as sensor etc... Before you install you need to change a few basics of the UM2 firmware; - change the startup position from front left to front middle. - change the head's bed leveling positions. - activate the 2th extruder. - I did not alter the material change positions, just don't use this anymore.. You can learn how to change and compile the UM2 firmware here; http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/7436-more-information-during-print?page=14#reply-97402 These are the settings I used: Ultilcd2_menu_print.ccp#define HEATUP_POSITION_COMMAND "G1 F12000 X100 Y45"UltiLCD2_menu_first_run.cpp#define BED_CENTER_ADJUST_X (X_MAX_POS/2)#define BED_CENTER_ADJUST_Y (Y_MAX_LENGTH - 10)#define BED_LEFT_ADJUST_X 10#define BED_LEFT_ADJUST_Y 90#define BED_RIGHT_ADJUST_X 180#define BED_RIGHT_ADJUST_Y 90Configuration.h#define EXTRUDERS 2#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 20Configuration_adv.h#define EXTRUDERS 2 Leveling: To level the bed I do this: - start the UM2 leveling procedure (with the piece of paper) with the 1st head mounted and the 2th docked. - do the first rough leveling (till 1mm from bed) - level the 1st head only at the back position, with the piece of paper. - mount the 2th extruder, level with a piece of paper.... but DO NOT LEVEL using the printer knob but instead turn the "hot end isolator" do this only while the head is warm... this thing is easy to damage.. I'll advice to keep a spare one in stock... - mount back the 1st extruder and finish the leveling on the first 2 positions. **In case you use 2x olsson block (www.3dsolex.com) make sure the block does not touch the metal fan shroud, if it does, go 1 step back and change the height of the 1st extruder head and start the leveling again) Slicing: Now your ready to go, but first You need to calibrate the G-code movements to precisely move the head on the docking station. I use the direct PC printer controls of "Simplify3D" to find the correct coordinates, but there are other options. Here's my Simplify3D tool change G-code; ;*;***************************************{IF NEWTOOL=0};change to Tool Zero-Left{IF NEWTOOL=1};change to Tool One-Right;***************************************;{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F9000 X8.6 Y160 ; back to start T-zero - left{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F9000 X8.6 Y49 ; move front park T-zero - left{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F9000 X182.2 Y49 ; move to right pick T-one{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F9000 X182.2 Y160 ;move T-one to the back - right{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F9000 X182.2 Y160 ;move T-one to the back - right{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F9000 X182.2 Y49 ; move to right park T-one{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F9000 X8.6 Y49 ; move front pick T-zero - left{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F9000 X8.6 Y160 ; back to start T-zero - left;***************************************;* And here my startup code; G28 ; home all axesG1 X110 Y45 F3000 ; bring extruder to the frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z30 ; lowerG1 E50 F225 ; purge nozzle with 50mm of filamentG1 X80 Y60 F3000 ; tikkie opzij om niet in de prut te landenG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again You'll have to figure out Simplify3D yourself if you want to use it, but some further tips: - in "Layer" use "Choose start position point closed to specific location" to start from the back (prime towers) - in "Layer" flag the tab "Print islands sequentially without optimization, to make sure it's starts with the custom made prime tower. -set the tool change retraction in the advance tab, I use 20 mm and no correction for dripping (This is up to the prime tower) Obviously you can use another slicer and "find-replace" the tool change code in the G-code with a text editor. Calibration; You need to set the XY offset in the slicer you use. Start with a rough estimate, then print calibration pieces to refine. I started with the D shape at 0.3 layers, and then went to the other one at 0.15 layers. My curent ofset is: X 44,3 Y-0,9 You'll find the calibration pieces I used here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-extrusion-calibration-tests The pieces have layers of 0.6 mm, so you can use them with layer hights of f.e. 0.3 / 0.15 or 0.1 And as extra info: My feeder design is here, to print the 2th one mirror the body in your slicer; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-for-ultimaker-2-rail-system The extruder motor fan bracket I use on the back is here; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fanbracket-for-u2rs Or just search "U2RS"to find all related parts; https://www.youmagine.com/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&search_objects%5B%5D=designs&search_objects%5B%5D=collections&search=U2RS If you want to use original UM2 parts for this project, contact UM support to order parts. You'll find the partnumbers of the stuff you need here ("download zip" button) https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2
    1 point
  16. Daid im struggling with s3d in your code does lines G92 E-??? G1 F??? E0 G92 E-??? G1 F??? E0 prime the extruder I read a thread and increased the std setting setting to 20mm but when the machine is just started 1st print this doesn't work unless I move material in the console on the machine (UM2) im struggling with the setup the bed goes down as the the extruder drops it prime and then theres a mess and the print starts a mess any help appreciated bob
    1 point
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