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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/2015 in all areas

  1. voici quelques photos apres install du olsson block pour info ça fais deux cm de haut buse 0.25 de gauche a droite layer 0.1;0.06;0.04 vitesse 40 " /> après sous couche " /> et un vase avec la buse 0.8 layer 0.15 " /> voilou pour le moment que du bon
    4 points
  2. https://hackaday.io/project/5023-automatic-print-ejector
    2 points
  3. Since some time I am working on printing logos and badges with more than two colors and only one hotend. This is the result: Printed on an UM1 with a heated bed (works on blue tape as well) Maybe some of you want to try simple multicolor prints, too. So, this is how I do it: First split your CAD model according to the colors. E.g. one STL for blue, one for red, one for white and so on. The models for each color should be 0.2mm heigh. Only the last color you will print can be as high as you want. Slice them and then print the first color: Do not remove the result from your bed! I am u
    1 point
  4. Hello, I don't know if you had this type of problem, but I hate to repeat to print an object only because I had a electric blackout. To solve this problem you can save in the Rom the number of line of model Gcode and decrement it in the printing phase. In order to tell to the system that the object is not printed yet, for blackout or for power cord accidental removing, I think you can implement a one bit variable, a flag, checked by the system in the startup operations. If the flag is one the system read the actual Gcode line number and continue to print from it else, if the flag is zero, t
    1 point
  5. Mouahahah ce qu'il ne faut pas voir ! Vous prônez le respect de la première couche alors que, je cite: "il faut l'imprimer plus chaud" "il faut qu'elle soit bien écrasée" "n'hésite pas à la réduire" C'est très vexant pour une première couche.. Elles vont se sentir brimée ^^ Si vous l'aimez tant cette première couche --> imprimez là en double et en épaisseur 2mm ^^
    1 point
  6. En fait elle reste toujours présente....c'est juste quelle a la même hauteur de couche que ta valeur principale donc ce n'est pas une disparition mais un camouflage ! Signé : le CSPC " comité de soutient de la première couche "
    1 point
  7. BTW, I just cross-checked my measures with the ones from @ataraxis and I had the same +/- 0.5mm, so we can assume it is a very good basis. For the short belts (yes I'm old school), I printed small spacers (1.2mm) to get just a small space between the short belt pulleys and the wood.
    1 point
  8. I was going to post this yes This is ideal for auto prints! Just print, cool down, TIGER UPPERCUT, and start printing the next one
    1 point
  9. There is a good chance that the filament you have is poor quality. I have bought a variety of filament, both ABS and PLA. It's a hit-and-miss affair. Some PLA turned out to be OK for printing, i.e. 210C - 220C, 0.1mm layer height at 50mm/sec, but quite brittle. Also, at 0.2mm I had to drop the speed to around 25mm/sec. Some simply was useless, and I use it for pinning, head-cleaning and little else. My current favourite (despite it's awful smell) is some cheap ABS I bought of ebay, followed by the black PLA from 3dfilaprint.com which can be pushed quite hard. The ABS manages 60mm/sec at 0.
    1 point
  10. Ultimaker a ses problèmes, comme les autres. Mais la plupart des gens savent les résoudre ;-) A mon avis, se qui limite surtout ou ralentit la démocratisation de cette technologie, c'est essentiellement la modélisation de l'objet 3d ou pouvoir facilement modifier l'existant pour l'adapter a ses besoins. La copie c'est bien, la création c'est mieux ! Il existe pas mal d'outil pour cela, gratuit, payant, mais il faut s'y plonger sérieusement. Ce n'est pas a la porté de tous. Le plus souvent par manque de temps. Le succès de l'impression 3d, quelque soit la technique utilisée, passera pas la s
    1 point
  11. Température de transition vitreuse
    1 point
  12. There was one small change in 15.04.. Expert Settings now has a checkbox for "Infill prints after perimeters".
    1 point
  13. Made the upgrade this w-e (Both short & long belts, no direct drive) These twisterblocks are really neat, easier than the 'Bananas blocks' I had before.
    1 point
  14. Sorry, but I'm not a coder. What I can contribute is a couple of specific requests for Cura. I did get a response from Daid last year, indicating a total lack of interest in the issue. I'm well aware that the start/end-points can never be completely eliminated, but the way Cura goes to the "nearest" start-point makes it impossible to use for rounded objects - the results are random vertical scars that drunkards-walk up the sides of the piece in disjointed unpredictable pieces - seriously ugly. It's worth noting that Kisslicer, Slic3r, and Simplify3D all have decent approaches to this issue
    1 point
  15. I've done some quite a few of these myself - your prints are very nice. One of the key things from blecheimer is that the white portion (the part itself) must have a much thicker bottom layer than the initial one layer prints - from above: which is significantly thicker than his .1mm layers of the other colors. Note also that his white part (e.g. the circle) above does *not* know about the text such that it just prints a "flat bottom" on top of the text/colors. I did the same thing. There is no need to avoid the colored areas - the filament just flows in and around the letters. Som
    1 point
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