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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2015 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I printed the cabins using better filament and Cura at the normal setting (as opposed to superfast using Simplify3D and a profile that I am not happy with). I think the results confirm the 5 degree increment prints though: The zebra effect is gone at 15 degrees of rotation. Previous prints would suggest that it goes very soon after any rotation as it faint at 5 and seems gone at 10 (and we know it is gone at 15). ob·ses·sion - əbˈseSHən/ - noun - noun: obsession the state of being obsessed with someone or something. "she cared for him with a devotion bordering on obsession" an idea or thought that continually preoccupies or intrudes on a person's mind. plural noun: obsessions "he was in the grip of an obsession he was powerless to resist" Gee, sad when you put it that way. It's not like I am not getting other stuff done at the same time. Honest!
  2. 3 points
    Quick and dirty prints, my kids are making a board-game for a school project/greek class... yes that's a troyan horse ... and the 3Dbenchy's have captains
  3. 2 points
    As some of you may know, I'm working on a big step forward in 3D printer electronics. Today I'm releasing the first piece of the cake: The printhead controller! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printhead-controller Note that this design is not finished yet, but it is at a state where I want to go public and get you guys involved. So... What does it do, and why? Simply put - I'm outsourcing the printhead functions (temperature, heater and fan control) directly into the printhead, where they belong. The electronics mainboard will only have to send commands to the printhead like "put the nozzle temperature to 210°C, and set fan speed to 50%", instead of having to compute and control these functions by itself. The mainboard can then concentrate on other tasks, and leave the printhead to itself. This becomes especially interesting when you want to control 5 printheads, or if you have a modular printer which may have even more than 5 different toolheads. As another goodie - the amount of wiring between mainboard and printhead is reduced to 5 wires (or even 4 if you use a 12V heater cartridge). And, more importantly, the noise on this wiring is reduced. There is no more sensitive temperature signal going all the way in parallel to the motor and fan wiring, reducing signal noise and increasing temperature sensing accuracy. -- have to get back to work, will continue this soon -- /edit: Accidentally deleted the topic o.O
  4. 2 points
    Yep, like i said, the default settings are fine, and the only real settings you need to play with are temp and layer height and speed according to what type of filament you use. Also shell but (again only what in the basic settings) the other stuff is more complicated if you dont know what you are doing you are likely just making things worse. Im glad temp solved it for you and can confirm raising the temp fixes these problems, especially for colorfabb. I had people telling me my printerwaas faultly when i printed at 50mm/s 0.2layer height at 230, but hey its what worked for me, and the tune button is great for experimenting on the fly.
  5. 2 points
    A while ago I saw a prototype of this project in a video but never heard of it again until just now. MX3D will be 3D-printing a bridge over water, with the robots who build it on the very same bridge, going from one side to the other. Joris Laarman is also part of the team, who we may know from this famous chair. Next to this bridge, Amsterdam is also still working on building this full size canal-house. I must admit, we are doing some pretty cool stuff here in the Netherlands
  6. 2 points
    Here is my print (#27 btw) that was done at 50% infill. If you squint you can almost, just almost, make out some stripes. Is infill masking the problem? And here is an army of boat cabins, at 5 degree offsets, rising from the proverbial mud.
  7. 1 point
    Hey guys So I wanted to somewhat enclose my UMO to keep the hot air from my heatbed in and cold air (+ small child fingers) out... The top, I am still hoping will be "enclosed" by a air curtain coming from my massive cross-flow fan (man that thing blows air! ) I have looked at various enclosures that people have made, and came up with a few design goals: - A plan all along has been to keep my UMO sort of stylish, and as non-bulky as possible, so this applies to the enclosure as well... I decided I wanted the sides to actually sit IN the hole in the frame, rather than on top of it. - I hate hinges, and opening a hinged door requires space next to it, which you often do'nt have (because you are messy) so you have to move stuff around to open the door etc. I wanted to be able to open my enclosure without much space next to the printer - You often have to fix stuff in the printer, take your glass plate out, put a new one in, etc. etc., This means you will often have to open a side or front panel, fix stuff and close it again... Hence it should be an easy "snap-in-place" operation With these things in mind, I went to GitHub and downloaded the open source lasercutter drawingings for the printer... I took the "hole parts" of the drawing, and modified them a bit (added slots for magnets and some fancy safety warning text). Then sent the drawings off to a lasercutter service to have them cut in 5mm. acrylic. Here is the result, loosely placed in the holes of the frame: I will now mount some sqare magnets that I got from ebay, into the slots along the edges of the panels, and drill holes in the edge of the printer frame, to add some cylindrical magnets there. This should snap the panels in place, and make them easy to take in and out of the hole... the whole setup adds no extra bulk to the printer, only a slight weight increase.
  8. 1 point
    Hallo, ich bin seit ein paar Tagen hier im Forum unterwegs und habe seit ca. 3 Wochen eine Ultimaker 2. Wie das halt so ist probiert man natürlich bisschen herum und nun würde mich interessieren ob jemand schon Erfahrungen mit Innoflex (sehr weich und dehnbar, von Innofil) gemacht hat? Ist es überhaupt möglich dies mit dem UM2 zu drucken und wenn ja braucht man irgendwelche modifikationen. Ich bekomme es bis dato nicht wirklich gescheit hin weil ich große Probleme habe das Material ordentlich zum Hot End zu befördern, (verwuschtelt sich z.B. im Förderrad) :???: Danke schonmal für Eure Zeit, Lg Lukas
  9. 1 point
    Je vous poste le miens qui est en trois parties (voir plus haut) dans la soirée. Mais attention, la pièce centrale devras être en XT ou mieux. L'avantage, c'est que vous pouvez régler la hauteur indépendamment sur chaques support ventilo.
  10. 1 point
    Here are top recommended speeds for .1mm layers: 40mm/sec at 200C 60mm/sec at 210C 80mm/sec at 225C 100mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. 60mm/sec infill at 210C should be okay for most PLA and most printers but it's the fastest I like to go for that temp. I've never printed PLA/PHA but I'm not surprised that it needs a bit more heat. Note that when you have a 100% infill like this and you overextrude at 110% you run the heavy risk of too much pressure build up - no place for the extra PLA to go so it skips back. Whereas 110% on a wall should be fine as there is plenty of "air" for that PLA to fill into.
  11. 1 point
    Not so fast Martijn! This is not solved yet! I looked at the gcodes for the lines that get those diagonal lines on benchy. To the left of the arch (near the top of the arch) a typical movement in X is 7mm and in Y is .363mm. The steps/mm for the UM2 is 80 for X and Y axes. This means one microstep is .0125mm (1/80). That means there were 29 steps on the left side of the arch. So there should be 29 lines when benchy is not rotated yet the photo shows 2 lines. looking even more carefully it looks like the Y movement between 2 "zebra" lines is about .18mm which is about 15 or 16 microsteps. Wait! Aha! Are these steppers set to 16 microsteps? If so then those lines appear to be at one FULL step. That shouldn't be visible, right? Also I confirmed that the slope of the walls is tilted horizontally outward as you move towards the bow, and outwards as you move up. This COMPLETELY agrees with the theory that this is a step issue as the diagonal lines are like isolines on a contour map. Also the outward-toward-bow angle is stronger than the outward-toward-the-top angle which makes sense as the diagonal zebra stripes are not exactly 45 degrees but are more vertical. This completely agrees with Martin's step theory. The only detail is that it is happening every 16 steps! Not every micro step. This could be a servo issue or a driver issue. The UMO has similar mircostepping - 80 microsteps per mm (actually 78) so I'm curious to know if it has the same zebra stripes.
  12. 1 point
    Your cilinder test looks great and so does your Atomic Method (if you performed it correctly, your nozzle is very clean!)
  13. 1 point
    Whichever you believe would help a future reader! And without a doubt a big thank you 2 @Nallath and @MartijnvG
  14. 1 point
    I don't see infill as having anything to do with it! It seems that the solution is to rotate the piece being printed such that the slicers lines look straighter across the steps. It is still a bit confusing to me as to what is specific about the Ultimaker that brings out this problem. There are a LOT of prints of this model out there in the wild without stripes...including the ones from my Wanhao Duplicator 4S. Obviously it is something about the hardware / firmware interface as the phenomenon was also evident when I sliced using Simplify3D for the Ultimaker 2...and I suspect that Marlin on some other hardware might be producing a shippy without stripes as well. Too bad I just sold my Prusa machine with Marlin last weekend! I will stipulate that I can now print a ship without the zebra stripes...am not completely sure who gets the best answer. MartijnvG did all the work and documented the final solution so I think his last post gets the check...but...nallath was the first to suggest angling.
  15. 1 point
    What tend to do in this scenario is first check that the temperature reading is correct. Heat the nozzle to 210 and press a piece of filament against it. If it melts easily, your temperature is fine. Next, atomic pull as everyone has suggested. Should not take more than ten minutes if you are doing say 5 pulls. After the atomic pulls, feed a twist-tie (that you get with sandwich bags) through the hot nozzle. It should slide in easily for around 30mm or so. Use tweezers or pliers to feed it in. If there is a blockage, this will help loosen it up. Next, listen to your extruder. Is the motor going tock every 10-20 seconds? If yes, then you are pushing too much plastic through the nozzle. This means either hotter temps or slower speeds. Or both! Another thing to do is get a roll of PLA from a different supplier, or try printing with a known-good roll again and see if you have an issue. If only the orange is a problem, you have a dud roll. Nothing unusual about that, but does not happen too often. I have had rolls whose quality changed in mid roll! Lastly, and this is just for the overly paranoid, bake you PLA. Either put it in your oven at 45C (any hotter, you will get close to the glass transition point and you will cry or will be shot) or what I do is to put it on a hot radiator. Essentially just find somewhere really warm, put some silica gel crystals or a cupful of rice in a box with a lid, and dry out the filament for a few hours or even 24. If you are desperate enough, put it in a pillow case with a cupful of rice and run it in your dryer for a couple of hours. Then try printing again. Occasionally I have bought some plastics that are more hygrophilic than others, and this baking helps.
  16. 1 point
    Something else @IRobertI can add to his guides
  17. 1 point
    (hors-sujet) Comme le dit @rigs, je suis assez occupé de ces temps ci, et comme je n'accroche pas du tout à ce "forum" je ne passe que de temps en temps pour voir ce qui se dit coté firmware et hacks, et je participe très peu -- mais je m'efforce de répondre aux tags Le firmware de mes UMOs évolue toujours lentement au gré de mes besoins, et je le publie toujours via mon petit site...
  18. 1 point
    @tinkergnome OUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU ! Welcome, it's a good day !
  19. 1 point
    Guys check this out, amazing stuff "With our robots that can “draw” steel structures in 3D, we will print a bridge over water in the center of Amsterdam. We research and develop groundbreaking, cost-effective robotic technology with which we can 3D print beautiful, functional objects in almost any form. The ultimate test? Printing an intricate, ornate metal bridge for a special location to show what our robots and software, engineers, craftsmen and designers can do." http://mx3d.com/projects/bridge/
  20. 1 point
    As it happens, almost everyone flogging printers give roughly the same impression, that all you need is a 3D printer and then the world is your plastic oyster. The shining exception is this video: in which Brook Drumm states quite clearly that 3S printing is hard.I never expected the Ultimaker to be a walk in the park, but as it happens it turned out to be a flatter learning curve than expected, largely because the Ultimaker 2 and Cura combination are simply superb for what they offer. With regards to ABS, I love the stuff. Weirdly enough for precision parts or quality surface ABS seems to do a superior job over PLA.
  21. 1 point
    I think that I may have shot myself in the foot in the interest of speedy prints, but, based on what I did print I would say that the zebra stripes are largely gone as soon as you rotate the piece, and pretty much completely gone at 15 degrees: Zero: Five: Ten: Fifteen: Full Ship at Fifteen Degrees versus one at Zero Degrees: The stripes are more noticeable as image quality improves so I may print another couple of cabins tomorrow at higher resolution and slower...but...I am finally getting tired of the little shippy. Also, my wife thinks I may be ready for a padded room.
  22. 1 point
    Phew! I am back! Thanks to Arjan who has redirected me to Sander... Thanks to Sander who has passed my issues with the forum account to the developers... ...and thanks to the nameless developer who was able to reset my password manually... I somehow like the term "big bang"... Seriously: The custom firmware is compiled with PID control for the printbed temperature. Because of this reported issue i released the "b" version with the standard "bang-bang" control method (in addition). The difference is described in the links. If i find some spare time it will become a selectable option someday... (it's on the todo list) Greetings from the tinkercave!
  23. 1 point
    Petite nouvelles Le transporteur est venu chercher l'imprimante mercredi matin (11h), Makershop la reçu l'imprimante le jeudi matin (j'était assez étonner quand même moins de 24h pour traverser la France c'est pas mal ° J'avais aucune nouvelle, j'ai renvoyer un mail aujourd'hui et.... Makershop à commandé une carte mère et attend de la recevoir pour la monté sur mon imprimante
  24. 1 point
    j'ai causé vite fait avec @amedee sur twitter dernièrement, pas mal de changement de son côté. Lui, @tinkergnome et d'autres...bref...regardons devant
  25. 1 point
    Alors moi j'ai imprimé quelques figurines En layer 0,04 Vitesse 35 In fill 40% Paroi 0,50 Temp plateau 40 Temp tete 200 Avec du filaments winbo Apres une peinture rapide sans ponçage ni retouche.
  26. 1 point
    I got dust on my filament and then in my UM2 nozzle and had to clear 4 blockages in 4 days and now have a recommended method - would take 1 minute if I didn't have to wait for the nozzle to heat up and cool down (minimum 2 heats, one cool). The Atomic Nozzle Cleaning Method Simpler Version (July 2014) (named after Mostly Atomic Bob who may or may not have invented it - not sure) I do this method on EVERY FILAMENT CHANGE now. It keeps the nozzle clean I hope. If you have no filament in the head, heat nozzle to 180C and while waiting insert the filament manually through the feeder, cutting the tip of the filament to a point first. You have to push very hard to get the feeder spring to move back but then it's easy. 1) Set nozzle temp to 90C. Wait for the nozzle temp to cool or heat to this value. If heating wait 10 seconds at this temp. Push the head to the front of the machine to reduce friction in the tightly bent bowden. Grip the filament firmly below the feeder and pull down. You should get a nozzle tip shaped end on the filament. 2) Pull the tip half way through the bowden and then pause 10 seconds. If this is your first time pause 20 seconds. This is to let the PLA cool below glass temp (to about 40C) so it doesn't come apart in the feeder. 3) Pull the filament all the way out. When it is getting very close do it in one fast swift motion so that the stepper is spinning with momentum and pushes the tip out. If it breaks inside the feeder (happens about once every 50 times) instead of taking it apart you can get some small tools and push the roller away from the feeder sleeve with one tool while someone else digs around in there to get the PLA out. If that doesn't work take it apart. 4) Examine the tip for dirt, etc. Cut it off with two snips to make a chisel point. Re-insert through feeder into print head, set temp to 180C. You have to push pretty hard to get past the feeder spring. Wait for temp to hit 180C, push the filament into the nozzle and if nothing leaks out the tip go back to step 1. Repeat this procedure until the tip comes out clean and/or it starts working again. Inserting a needle through the tip may help but doesn't seem to be necessary. The Atomic Nozzle Cleaning Method (named after Mostly Atomic Bob who may or may not have invented it - not sure) 1) Remove filament (change filament menu item and just cancel after it's out) 2) Remove Bowden at print head. Follow instructions carefully - it's easy to scrape and damage the bowden on the metal blades. 2a) Remove the colored clip (red I think on mine) that holds the gray part up. I'll call the gray part the "bowden holder". 2B) Loosen the 4 thumb screws until they are about to dissapear into the bottom metal piece - until the ends of the bolts are flush with the bottom metal plate - this is to loosen upward pressure on the bowden. 2C) At this point the bowden should be able to move up and down (along with the bowden holder) freely. If not now you have to loosen the metal nut that has holes all the way around - rotating that lowers the nozzle reducing upward pressure on the bowden. I haven't messed with this yet. 2D) GENTLY raise the bowden while pushing down on the bowden holder. you do not want to pull very hard or you will scrape it. Consider pushing down a bit before pulling up. Look at it carefully when it comes out - there should be a ring where the bowden holder blades cut into it. If you do scrape the bowden you will need to cut off 2 or 3mm off the end of the bowden. Obviously you can only do this a few times before needing a new bowden tube. 3) Cut a piece of PLA filament to help you clear the nozzle - it should be 100 to 300mm long. Stick it into the nozzle from above - you should straighten it by bending it straight. Make sure the nozzle truly is plugged - when you get to the white nylon piece there should be resistance but it should keep going down. 4) At this point it is more difficult if you don't have a needle but probably not mandatory - hypodermic is good, or accupuncture or a .35mm drill bit, or a wire from the wire brush that cleans a barbeque grill, or some other metal brush, or a thick strand of copper from a power cable (this never worked for me - the power cable thing - much too small. 5) Stick the needle up into the hole and pull it out again - don't push on the filament. 6) Lower nozzle temp to 100C. At 90C pull hard up on the filament. This should hopefully remove your clog. Cut the end of PLA off and throw away that clog. 7) Raise nozzle temp to 180C. Insert PLA again and if it is working you are done and put it back together. If not go back to step 5. 8) If it isn't clogged but the PLA curls sharply (even with 30mm of freshly extruded pla pulling downwards) and touches the side of the nozzle, then there is a partial clog. Once your needle is in the head push hard in a circle to scrape the inside of the metal nozzle near the tip. Don't scratch the exterior of the tip of the nozzle. This clog should be able to go out through the nozzle so hopefully you don't need to cool the nozzle but instead can push the (smaller) clog out the tip. 9) REASSEMBLY - Remove your short piece of PLA and put the Bowden back in. Push it as far down as it will go and then tighten the 4 thumbscrews such that the bowden is in there tight. The little red clip should now do nothing - and the bowden holder should always be in the up position from now on. Also your retraction distance can be reduced from 5.5mm to 4.5mm (at least in my case). Maybe even shorter - haven't experimented much yet. edited as per Illuminarti's suggestions below. edit2: I changed the "pull up" temp to 90C as I've done this more times since I wrote this and 90C seems to be the perfect temp. 100C works but not as well.
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