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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2015 in all areas

  1. I printed the cabins using better filament and Cura at the normal setting (as opposed to superfast using Simplify3D and a profile that I am not happy with). I think the results confirm the 5 degree increment prints though: The zebra effect is gone at 15 degrees of rotation. Previous prints would suggest that it goes very soon after any rotation as it faint at 5 and seems gone at 10 (and we know it is gone at 15). ob·ses·sion - əbˈseSHən/ - noun - noun: obsession the state of being obsessed with someone or something. "she cared for him with a devotion bordering on obses
    3 points
  2. Quick and dirty prints, my kids are making a board-game for a school project/greek class... yes that's a troyan horse ... and the 3Dbenchy's have captains
    3 points
  3. As some of you may know, I'm working on a big step forward in 3D printer electronics. Today I'm releasing the first piece of the cake: The printhead controller! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printhead-controller Note that this design is not finished yet, but it is at a state where I want to go public and get you guys involved. So... What does it do, and why? Simply put - I'm outsourcing the printhead functions (temperature, heater and fan control) directly into the printhead, where they belong. The electronics mainboard will only have to send commands to the printhead like "put the noz
    2 points
  4. Yep, like i said, the default settings are fine, and the only real settings you need to play with are temp and layer height and speed according to what type of filament you use. Also shell but (again only what in the basic settings) the other stuff is more complicated if you dont know what you are doing you are likely just making things worse. Im glad temp solved it for you and can confirm raising the temp fixes these problems, especially for colorfabb. I had people telling me my printerwaas faultly when i printed at 50mm/s 0.2layer height at 230, but hey its what worked for me, and the tune
    2 points
  5. A while ago I saw a prototype of this project in a video but never heard of it again until just now. MX3D will be 3D-printing a bridge over water, with the robots who build it on the very same bridge, going from one side to the other. Joris Laarman is also part of the team, who we may know from this famous chair. Next to this bridge, Amsterdam is also still working on building this full size canal-house. I must admit, we are doing some pretty cool stuff here in the Netherlands
    2 points
  6. Here is my print (#27 btw) that was done at 50% infill. If you squint you can almost, just almost, make out some stripes. Is infill masking the problem? And here is an army of boat cabins, at 5 degree offsets, rising from the proverbial mud.
    2 points
  7. Hey guys So I wanted to somewhat enclose my UMO to keep the hot air from my heatbed in and cold air (+ small child fingers) out... The top, I am still hoping will be "enclosed" by a air curtain coming from my massive cross-flow fan (man that thing blows air! ) I have looked at various enclosures that people have made, and came up with a few design goals: - A plan all along has been to keep my UMO sort of stylish, and as non-bulky as possible, so this applies to the enclosure as well... I decided I wanted the sides to actually sit IN the hole in the frame, rather than on top of i
    1 point
  8. Hallo, ich bin seit ein paar Tagen hier im Forum unterwegs und habe seit ca. 3 Wochen eine Ultimaker 2. Wie das halt so ist probiert man natürlich bisschen herum und nun würde mich interessieren ob jemand schon Erfahrungen mit Innoflex (sehr weich und dehnbar, von Innofil) gemacht hat? Ist es überhaupt möglich dies mit dem UM2 zu drucken und wenn ja braucht man irgendwelche modifikationen. Ich bekomme es bis dato nicht wirklich gescheit hin weil ich große Probleme habe das Material ordentlich zum Hot End zu befördern, (verwuschtelt sich z.B. im Förderrad) :???: Danke schonmal für Eure Zeit
    1 point
  9. Je vous poste le miens qui est en trois parties (voir plus haut) dans la soirée. Mais attention, la pièce centrale devras être en XT ou mieux. L'avantage, c'est que vous pouvez régler la hauteur indépendamment sur chaques support ventilo.
    1 point
  10. Here are top recommended speeds for .1mm layers: 40mm/sec at 200C 60mm/sec at 210C 80mm/sec at 225C 100mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. 60mm/sec infill at 210C should be okay for most PLA and most printers but it's the fastest I like to go for that temp. I've never printed PLA/PHA but I'm not surprised that it needs a bit more heat. Note that when you have a 100% infill like this and you overextrude at 110% you run the heavy risk of too much pressure build up - no place for the
    1 point
  11. Not so fast Martijn! This is not solved yet! I looked at the gcodes for the lines that get those diagonal lines on benchy. To the left of the arch (near the top of the arch) a typical movement in X is 7mm and in Y is .363mm. The steps/mm for the UM2 is 80 for X and Y axes. This means one microstep is .0125mm (1/80). That means there were 29 steps on the left side of the arch. So there should be 29 lines when benchy is not rotated yet the photo shows 2 lines. looking even more carefully it looks like the Y movement between 2 "zebra" lines is about .18mm which is about 15 or 16 microstep
    1 point
  12. Your cilinder test looks great and so does your Atomic Method (if you performed it correctly, your nozzle is very clean!)
    1 point
  13. Whichever you believe would help a future reader! And without a doubt a big thank you 2 @Nallath and @MartijnvG
    1 point
  14. I don't see infill as having anything to do with it! It seems that the solution is to rotate the piece being printed such that the slicers lines look straighter across the steps. It is still a bit confusing to me as to what is specific about the Ultimaker that brings out this problem. There are a LOT of prints of this model out there in the wild without stripes...including the ones from my Wanhao Duplicator 4S. Obviously it is something about the hardware / firmware interface as the phenomenon was also evident when I sliced using Simplify3D for the Ultimaker 2...and I suspect that Marlin
    1 point
  15. What tend to do in this scenario is first check that the temperature reading is correct. Heat the nozzle to 210 and press a piece of filament against it. If it melts easily, your temperature is fine. Next, atomic pull as everyone has suggested. Should not take more than ten minutes if you are doing say 5 pulls. After the atomic pulls, feed a twist-tie (that you get with sandwich bags) through the hot nozzle. It should slide in easily for around 30mm or so. Use tweezers or pliers to feed it in. If there is a blockage, this will help loosen it up. Next, listen to your extruder. Is the motor g
    1 point
  16. Something else @IRobertI can add to his guides
    1 point
  17. (hors-sujet) Comme le dit @rigs, je suis assez occupé de ces temps ci, et comme je n'accroche pas du tout à ce "forum" je ne passe que de temps en temps pour voir ce qui se dit coté firmware et hacks, et je participe très peu -- mais je m'efforce de répondre aux tags Le firmware de mes UMOs évolue toujours lentement au gré de mes besoins, et je le publie toujours via mon petit site...
    1 point
  18. @tinkergnome OUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU ! Welcome, it's a good day !
    1 point
  19. Guys check this out, amazing stuff "With our robots that can “draw” steel structures in 3D, we will print a bridge over water in the center of Amsterdam. We research and develop groundbreaking, cost-effective robotic technology with which we can 3D print beautiful, functional objects in almost any form. The ultimate test? Printing an intricate, ornate metal bridge for a special location to show what our robots and software, engineers, craftsmen and designers can do." http://mx3d.com/projects/bridge/
    1 point
  20. As it happens, almost everyone flogging printers give roughly the same impression, that all you need is a 3D printer and then the world is your plastic oyster. The shining exception is this video: in which Brook Drumm states quite clearly that 3S printing is hard.I never expected the Ultimaker to be a walk in the park, but as it happens it turned out to be a flatter learning curve than expected, largely because the Ultimaker 2 and Cura combination are simply superb for what they offer. With regards to ABS, I love the stuff. Weirdly enough for precision parts or quality surface ABS seems to
    1 point
  21. I think that I may have shot myself in the foot in the interest of speedy prints, but, based on what I did print I would say that the zebra stripes are largely gone as soon as you rotate the piece, and pretty much completely gone at 15 degrees: Zero: Five: Ten: Fifteen: Full Ship at Fifteen Degrees versus one at Zero Degrees: The stripes are more noticeable as image quality improves so I may print another couple of cabins tomorrow at higher resolution and slower...but...I am finally getting tired of the little shippy. Also, my wife thinks I may be ready for a padded room.
    1 point
  22. Phew! I am back! Thanks to Arjan who has redirected me to Sander... Thanks to Sander who has passed my issues with the forum account to the developers... ...and thanks to the nameless developer who was able to reset my password manually... I somehow like the term "big bang"... Seriously: The custom firmware is compiled with PID control for the printbed temperature. Because of this reported issue i released the "b" version with the standard "bang-bang" control method (in addition). The difference is described in the links. If i find some spare time it will become a selectable
    1 point
  23. Petite nouvelles Le transporteur est venu chercher l'imprimante mercredi matin (11h), Makershop la reçu l'imprimante le jeudi matin (j'était assez étonner quand même moins de 24h pour traverser la France c'est pas mal ° J'avais aucune nouvelle, j'ai renvoyer un mail aujourd'hui et.... Makershop à commandé une carte mère et attend de la recevoir pour la monté sur mon imprimante
    1 point
  24. j'ai causé vite fait avec @amedee sur twitter dernièrement, pas mal de changement de son côté. Lui, @tinkergnome et d'autres...bref...regardons devant
    1 point
  25. Alors moi j'ai imprimé quelques figurines En layer 0,04 Vitesse 35 In fill 40% Paroi 0,50 Temp plateau 40 Temp tete 200 Avec du filaments winbo Apres une peinture rapide sans ponçage ni retouche.
    1 point
  26. I got dust on my filament and then in my UM2 nozzle and had to clear 4 blockages in 4 days and now have a recommended method - would take 1 minute if I didn't have to wait for the nozzle to heat up and cool down (minimum 2 heats, one cool). The Atomic Nozzle Cleaning Method Simpler Version (July 2014) (named after Mostly Atomic Bob who may or may not have invented it - not sure) I do this method on EVERY FILAMENT CHANGE now. It keeps the nozzle clean I hope. If you have no filament in the head, heat nozzle to 180C and while waiting insert the filament manually through the feeder, cutting
    1 point
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