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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/28/2015 in all areas

  1. Bonjour à tous, je souhaitais ouvrir ce topic pour vous présenter la maquette que j'ai réalisé à titre professionnel pour un certain fournisseur d'électricité français qui possède de nombreuse centrales sur le territoire. la maquette représente une salle de contrôle type. tout est imprimé sur une ultimaker 2. l'ensemble des éléments sont imprimés en 3d ( à part les cloisons biensûr) puis peints pour enfin être assemblés. voici donc quelques photos du projet. je voulais partager avec l'ensemble du forum ce projet qui montre toutes les capacités de l'ultimaker. alors ceux qui hésite encore
    4 points
  2. It's me , when i want read the "Estimated Print-time" Please for my eyes....i'm young.... Thank !
    2 points
  3. @SandervG: don't you know the latest photos showing the 3dsolex workshop? Can you imagine a machine that outperforms the precision of this one:
    2 points
  4. A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ? Morning guys. I had a nice little idea. When I lived in Ireland, it was very normal for people to ask you how your day was or how yesterday was. It was a simple sign that people wanted to learn a little more about you and were interested in you. I really miss that since im living in Germany. If you ask a german you work with, how was his day... he normally thinks.. why are you asking me this and I dont have to tell you.... its a very different mentality and not a good or happy one.. So because there is such an amazing and warm friends atmos
    1 point
  5. Note: This experience it's based on UMO+ adapted to 1.75mm filament. Printed on cool bed with blue tape at 245C-250C and then lowered to 245C to check. Speeds of 70mm at 0.2 layer. The first top layer did an awesome job (not fully covering all) but the second was a perfect cover. On Colorfabb and most pla (except Faberdashery) I need 4 top layers to have a perfect cover. I used 20% infill with a 45/-45 pattern (s3d). The holes cover really really nicely so I assume the bridging capabilities of this filament are amazing. Got the print with a little bit of fan (enough to cool my printed h
    1 point
  6. Have you checked those? They are kind of a statement. Click on image for full size.
    1 point
  7. And I thought I was so cool with my miserable 2.2 Kg You are. Because you're using it while I used just a few grams from that spool (lack of time...).
    1 point
  8. Hi amico [media=3321][/media] I use only 2.2 kg... non c'è problema
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. Can we please have e-mail notifications. It's been a long long time now. I think this single feature could be a boost to forum life.
    1 point
  11. Tien @rigs, imprime lui déjà ça ou bien reprend le stl ! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:700919
    1 point
  12. I prefer the 60 (or is it 65) year old lathe form Germany ( Eh... West Germany) because it is extremely accurate! I Can drill 0.1mm holes with a precision of 0.005mm. There is are noe bearings which rattle, everything is silent.. so when I turn it by hand it makes totally no noise I can hear (maybe getting old). The motor makes a wheee though... I had some nozzles made in Taiwan and they came in horrible. All 040s where 033-038. So I had to drill them all out. Never again. I do it myself now. The lathe can operate without chucks, just uses colletts. So just a move by the hand ("-these arent
    1 point
  13. Bonjour, je n ai pas d um, mais un gros clone Je le trouve pas mal @rigs pour faire patienter ton fils Les roues tournent et le coffre se ferme Alex
    1 point
  14. Hi @greengecko & @neotko, then I think there was indeed a miscommunication, we don't have a full video so I wouldn't have kept you waiting. Following the demand we are moving towards a more detailed and documented way to share the content from the Ulti-evenings. Yesterday was the last edition with Roos Meerman whom you may know from our story. We will document her presentation, even though it has some similarities with the info shared in the story. The wow-factor of blowing up some prints live is something we unfortunately can't share over the internet
    1 point
  15. Yes I always respond to tags... ... just need to be patient, it's not a secret I don't like this new community thing so I don't pass here very often. That combined with vacation time But I'll have a look to add this feature in my builder...
    1 point
  16. You know why white wine selling so well in Norway in the summer? - because it always maintains the correct temperature, by itself; beween 11-13 degrees! Anders Olsson visited me yesterday! We tried some new procedures on my 60 year old German lathe. Today going to turn down lots of steel couplers which are all 20 microns too large. We also discussed and made plans for a completely new kind of nozzles. Weather is horrible..
    1 point
  17. @sander: maybe a misunderstanding I meant a complete video this is just merchandising. I always talked about the whole evening or at least the presentations. still don't get it why there is no better exploitation of this great feature to get people involved and informed on the activity. a lost opportunity.
    1 point
  18. I have had these problems a few times, the small piece has sharp edges and is bent a little, and thus stuck in the tube. I just bought a 50cm 3mm metal rod (alu, brass, steel or long welding rod at any DIY store), open one end of the bowden tube, and just push the small part out if it is really stuck, just tap the metal end with a hammer, and it comes out in seconds. that's why I hate cheap PLA, if you leave it for a few hours, after finishing, it breaks at the feeder, or even worse in several places inside the bowden tube :(
    1 point
  19. Heat the tube from the outside with a hairdryer /hot air gun. If you dont have it or haitdryer not hot enough, soak outside of tube in boiling water, when pla is soft inside push it out with new PLA. When you have run sevral hundred hours, the tube gets lots of little scratches inside and is not really slippery! A new tube is a total difference!! You can try filament in old tube and new tube manually, and there is no more discussion about it.
    1 point
  20. Mine just hung as well, but the same model worked just fine in the legacy cura, so this one is fussy with its models. Check your obj or whatever. Dont bother using this one yet in my opinion. Its slower as well.
    1 point
  21. A few things; Where are the different views, X-ray, Transparency and Overhang? I see the Overhang view option in preferences but overhang indication will not appear unless you have "Enable Support selected". How do you know if you need support if you don't see any overhang indications? Where is the nozzle size selection, the new options are very confusing. Please bring back the mm^3 per second indicator under the print speed box, that was super helpful.
    1 point
  22. If you print slower than the jerk setting (20mm/sec) then you should get blobless printing also as now the feeder just runs at a constant speed for the whole print without slowing down or speeding up. But it would be lovely to get high quality prints at 100mm/sec and for this we need this feature. If you read all the comments in the second link you post above, people mention that in *Marlin* this feature is called "advance". I have been meaning to test it out. I haven't heard anything from anyone who uses the feature on the UM1 or UM2. Here is the relevant setting - you have to uncomment
    1 point
  23. Hot off the servers in 2.67: http://wiki.blender.org/index.php/Dev:Ref/Release_Notes/2.67/Print_Tools
    1 point
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