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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/02/2015 in all areas

  1. Hi, finally I have finished my carbon-tube slider for timelapse photography. As you can see, almost every part is printed. I have used the UM2 and the Colorfabb PLA/PHA, which is now my standard filament for everything. More information on the slider can be found on my website: http://puremoco.com/pages/sliderCarbon.php
    2 points
  2. Guys... I'm so sorry... this is embarrassing... It was not the pcb. It was me. Stupid. Arrgh. The answer is in the OP. I had my own heated bed. With an NTC. What do you need to change on the UM shield when you have a NTC? Yes, you need to add a 4.7kOhm resistor to R4. AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT OUT AGAIN WHEN YOU INSTALL A HEATED BED KIT FROM ULTIMAKER!!! (sorry for shouting) The additional resistor reduced the analog signal at temp2 and made the firmware believe the temperature is higher due to the negative slope of the add-on pcb. @neotko: Thanks anyway for the generous offer!
    1 point
  3. Finally after all this time yesterday got a good idea to fix 2 main problems of my setup: 1) Z alignment 2) Ptfe isolator to stay always on its place Finally what I'm doing its to keep the design but adding a spring spacer that works independently. With this: Also I'm changing the head holder to make the fan caps something that could be unplugged fast to replace, etc.
    1 point
  4. Here's the resulting guitar. still have to finish up the model of the trimmer... Took some nicer pictures today. That figure really pops at the right angles!
    1 point
  5. We are all the beta testers...it's the game The new cura is a beautiful car ...... but without fuel .... for now ... Patience @personal-drones : Nice gradual rulers ! I had the same 20 years ago Edit : another @------- with bug.... ( we are all the beta testers...)
    1 point
  6. I am also having multiple serious issues, and do not trust the new Cura for those reasons. If I cannot print with infill, as has been the case with multiple files now again in 15.06.03, this software is pretty much useless to me. Another functionality that seems to be missing from the new Cura are the plugins that used to come with the legacy version. One in particular is important to me right now, as I need it to do a print. It is the "Pause at height" plugin. I don't know if this plugin is part of the new Cura. If it is, I can't find it. The new Cura is also an enormous memory hog. It uses four times as much memory as the legacy version. So, would you please explain to me why you think the new Cura "is just a great software, so much better than the old one."
    1 point
  7. As you mentioned - it isn't... TEMP_SENSOR_2 is not relevant (not used at all for the UM2 AFAIK). The counting begins at 0 (TEMP_SENSOR_0 for the first etc.) Only two different defines are needed to compile the stock firmware either for one or for two extruders. And this should work similarly for the tinker version: Single Extruder: TEMP_SENSOR_1=0EXTRUDERS=1 Dual Extruder: TEMP_SENSOR_1=20EXTRUDERS=2 I've just added the (compiled) dual version to the recent tinker release. I'm afraid that you will have to make some other changes - but this depends on the type of your hardware modifications. Just be aware that you probably have to struggle with the compilation anyway (sooner or later)...
    1 point
  8. If you active 2 extruders and the sensor isn't connected the error will appear no matter what sensor you choose. The temp-sensor it's just to define the kind of sensor you connect. In UM2 the default (20) it's a pt100
    1 point
  9. Just updated my builder, you can now select the 'MAXTEMP' for the hot-end...
    1 point
  10. I've notified our electronics engineer, he will be able to tell if this is a problem or not. *Edit* Nope; nothing to worry about. It just discolours very fast.
    1 point
  11. I have etched one side of my glass and have very good success with a special form of hair spray and the rough surface of my etched plate. Let the hairspray buildup as it gets better. When print finishes, put the plate and print into your freezer. Wait 10 minutes and it falls off. I'm telling you it's like magic and I have tried all the ideas here. http://amzn.com/B0001DTWYG http://amzn.com/B00KIH314C
    1 point
  12. Thank you for sharing your method, Solid Print 3D! (don't know your name) I modeled my puck after the hand-held "mallets" used to play air hockey. I had some syringes laying around so keep one full of acetone close by at all times now. I had a panic at first, thinking, "OMG! What if the syringe is made of ABS?!?" :shock: Works great! Printed up one for every color ABS spool I own. My favorite thing about this method is that no matter how messy the slurry looks, it's still the same color as the filament I'm using, so the bottom is flawless! No glue swirls. Edit: I've adjusted and uploaded my .stl to youmagine. The bottom hole is now large enough so they stack on top of one another when not in use.
    1 point
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