Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/13/2015 in all areas

  1. Hi Guys, long time no post. Really amazing things printed in the meantime! A little sneak peak of my latest Fusion 360 design result, my own version of the EggBot Pro from the evil mad scientist labs (props to the engineers there!). I like that little machine so much, I just had to create one by myself. From pictures online and some videos I "copied" the machine. I then added custom electronics, motors, screws etc. as you can see and vioila, a fully functioning eggbot. By the way, the white cups for the egg / pingpong ball are printed with Ninjaflex. The whole construction probalby takes ab
    3 points
  2. Nothing fancy compared to what some of you are doing, but these are some models I have been printing out for my company. These are 1:12 scale models of shoring scaffold towers and formwork deck panels. We are in the construction business, and are using these models for training. All the pieces are PLA, glued together, except for the wooden tops which are cut from strips of balsa wood to simulate real plywood. One of these days I'd like to experiment with the "laywood" or other simulated-wood filaments for printing models of plywood sheets, but for now, balsa does the job.
    3 points
  3. 2 points
  4. TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO SAY ACETONE DOES NOTHING TO ALL BRANDS OF PLA.....YOU ARE WRONG. LIKE TOTALLY WRONG. THIS NOW APPLIES TO COLORFABB NON SPECIALITY FILAMENT ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (as i have not tried speciality filaments.) If anyone from colorfabb wants to send me some samples id be happy to try them out, ;)lol. (EDIT: UM BRAND PLA NO LONGER SMOOTHS due to changes in their manufacturing process) Just to let you know. The red one below is Colorfabb BTW and so is the black t-rex beneath that. And that still should work, im getting more new filament soon so ill kee you updated if it also cha
    1 point
  5. We love to shine our spotlight on those who are using Ultimakers to make a real difference to people’s lives. One such story is that of e-NABLE. Made up of a global network of over 5,000 volunteers, e-NABLE designs, prints and donates “helper hands” free of charge to children and adults using Ultimaker printers. They work closely with people to find a 3D printer near them to print and assemble the pieces, or the hand files can be downloaded and printed at home. Pretty cool huh? This is empowering thousands of people like Luke Dennison, or as he’s known by his friends, Little Cool Hand Luke.
    1 point
  6. Don't forget that your travel speed should be higher than printing speed, or you'll get a lot of stringing. The faster you print, the smaller the print <-> travel margin becomes and the worse print quality you get. I have my travel speed set to 150mm/s (UMO). If I print at 30mm/s, then the margin is so big that I get pretty much no stringing / oozing at all.
    1 point
  7. Also, check your Bowden tubes are nice and clear and filament runs through them without any obvious resistance. But just as importantly, i would also give your printer a bit of a vacuum and clean - won't help the under extrusion, but it'll look much better in the Thread shots!
    1 point
  8. I have installed your latest firmware and it is a huge improvement over the stock. Good job, THANK YOU !!! I am much happier now with the interface and all the screen information. It always amazes me how you smart guys can code things much better in your spare time than the factory people. I understand they wanted to keep things simple, but c'mon, a more complete interface was needed, even if the expert option was hidden low in the advance menus. I havne't tried to abort a print, but if the excessive retraction is fixed, I don't see a need to purge manually quickly. The standard purge before
    1 point
  9. In theory PLA should work to extract ABS residues. Just make sure your hot temp is high enough to melt ABS. And regarding cheap chinese ABS i would not recommend printing with that, you will most certainly run into problems. Quality filament will eliminate a lot of problems (it's my opinion)
    1 point
  10. Hi @neotko You are right that g6 is the tolerance grade you want, IF you also buy Misumi bushings (#SHBR). It depends on the type of bushing. Misumi ones are made for "g6 or f8" shafts (it says so on the pdf page). I'm sure you can get other bushings that are made for h6 or other shafts. I wouldn't recommend the black LTBC coated shafts together with bronze bushings, because the coating quickly wears off. I'd take the hardened steel shafts (not stainless) with hard chrome plating. Those are really awesome. Misumi part number: PSFJ. Not sure what the LTBC is really suitable for. Maybe linear
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. Phew... this duplicity is a bit frightening... The doubled "end-of-print-retraction" (after pause and subsequent aborting) was a bug. It will be fixed with the next release of the stock firmware (AFAIK) - and is already fixed for the recent tinker version. And it seems that i share some parts of the workflow with spiruline... Actually - a preheat menu is already on my todo list for the next release. It will be accessable directly from the main menu - most probably along with "change-" and "move material". I think - first i should take a look at the UMO firmware how the preheating of the n
    1 point
  13. I used a 24v heater on the e3d v6 with no problems. If you don't want to change the ultimaker board and solder a resister to it in order to run a thermistor, e3d also sell type k thermocouples which work with the oem ultimaker amplifiers. No change of firmware is required if you go down this route.
    1 point
  14. Updates... The tinker firmware 15.07 for the Ultimaker2 is ready for testing! For a short list of changes take a look at the release page on Github. Keep in mind, that this version is only tested by myself so far - but give it a try, if you like... Any feedback is welcome.
    1 point
  15. If I needed to make a surface with lots of these cones in a grid or pattern then I think it would be much easier to use a CNC machine to make a mold from aluminum. Each cone could be made with a drill bit. Then heat it up to 150C and pour on some melted PLA and let it cool. But if you really need to print it you need to learn how to modify gcode. You might be able to do it without modifying the machine. gcode is extremely simple - you just tell the nozzle where to move to and the extruder how much to move. It even has a "sleep" like gcode to say wait here for 200ms or whatever time lengt
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...