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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/27/2015 in all areas

  1. You've got bigger problems....your battery is almost dead!!
    3 points
  2. Hi, @DidierKlein and I came up with a challenge which we could roll out in the community. Inspired by @Rigs print. A while back a long bearded guy named @AaronAlai tried to set up something like a monthly challenge. After a few contests this stopped because I think life happened. But I would like to give it another try, at least for this one challenge, and we can see where it goes! Price: eternal (.. or at least a month) honor and respect within the Ultimaker community! Challenge: Print this OK Hand as small as possible. Edit, We also put together some requirements: 1 the pink s
    2 points
  3. 2 points
  4. This a model of the village where our fablab is hosted. More details here
    2 points
  5. This one is less experimental, and more classic: It's a model of the village where our fablab is located. The name is St Cyr de Favières and it will host the meeting of all the St-Cyr villages of France. So every one of them will receive a small model of the village as a souvenir. I used Blender for modelling, and used pictures, map of the village and aerial view as a reference. The aim was not accuracy but that the village was recognizable. Therefore I had to balance between lack of time and printability to choose which details to models. I made two versions, one full that takes 25 hour
    2 points
  6. @neotko Seems like it was double posted and an admin removed 1 thread, where your replied in. I've moved your reply to the new topic.
    2 points
  7. Here is my last project. At the fablab, I was testing the Ciclop 3d scanner. So I started with an easy scan: a big object not shinny, a piggy money box. Scan turned out well (a lot of work with meshlab is required to get a nice mesh). Then I wanted to make my own remix of this scan, in Blender, I used a decimate modifier and the Tissue addon to get this shape: Hope you like it, and I guess my son will like it
    2 points
  8. Had this model of a heart laying around for a couple of month now. But I just received my Ultimaker three weeks ago, so it became my first bigger print. Around 13 x 8 x 16 cm. Sliced it in two halfes and clued them together. Needed a bit of sanding and a little bit of filler. Then I just spray painted it. Did a lot of experimenting trying to get a nice finish. And I'm really happy with the outcome although it has rather complicated shapes.
    2 points
  9. hi gr5 , thanks for the fast replay . have been reading your posts here for the last 5 weeks or more . and i am delighted that i can get a person like you to help me . really thanks . and thank you Ultimaker for this opportunity G.A
    1 point
  10. email notifications are back so we will spot them more quickly
    1 point
  11. Second attempt 0,25mm nozzle 5% original size 0,04mm layers
    1 point
  12. Hey jcosmo, Could you please clarify exactly what wiring you used from the link you mentioned and how you went about it in more detail? Did you use arduino as ISP to wire to the board? Did you use the sketch from gammon.com or the arduino as ISP sketch? Getting the same problem here... Hiya, Sorry for the delay in replying. When using other arduino->arduino wirings (aka sparkfun) they were suggesting wiring the 'programmer' pins 10->13 through to the ISP pins on the mega. This never worked for me, I can't remember the exact error, but it was a no go. The 'dud' mega remained in
    1 point
  13. The transparent blue stuff is translucent plastic sheet of 0.3 mm thick. I actually use 2 sheets from which I airbrush 1 with ink to the color I want and put that sprayed layer between the 2 sheets for protection. Due to the thickness of the sheet which is not stretched but just fixed into place with the printed parts.
    1 point
  14. More shoes! But not from an established fashion designer this time. It is Chris van den Elzen's turn, lets see what a talented young designer can bring to the table with fresh new ideas combined with a new technology. The world of high-end fashion is one that’s in perpetual change. It has a constant desire for original ideas and Chris van den Elzen is pushing the boundaries of the shoemaking art with 3D printed designs. The fashion world is loving every minute of it... Read all about his story here And you can watch his video below.
    1 point
  15. first prints detached from bed, rookie mistake. lets go again
    1 point
  16. Hello; while my main focus will indeed be on the UM2, most of the things i talk about will be applicable to the UMO as well
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. C'est ça didier, c'est dingue comme c'est facile le PLA et sans supports Après un mois d'essais de filament "techniques" PC/ABS, alloy910 et compagnie....quel bonheur de retourner à cette matière.
    1 point
  19. Histoire de changer les idées [media=4693][/media]
    1 point
  20. Hi Fredhi, Welcome to the forum First thing to check is the level of the build plate. Yout first layer must be squished on the platform. If the first layer doesn't stick well and the layers are "rounded" then your buildplate is to low. If the first layer is almost transparent then it's to high. What printer do you have? Assuming you have an Ultimaker 2 you can fine tune the level of the plate during the print of the first layer (best when printing the brim or the skirt). You can also apply the some glue that was sent with the printer. Put some on the glass and apply it smoothly on the g
    1 point
  21. Or mail your forum friends when in need... happy to print some parts for you in case of immergency
    1 point
  22. Here a update on my railway station project. This is a section of my middle roof:
    1 point
  23. That's why everybody should have two Ultimakers...
    1 point
  24. Hi Nico, you've made a lot of progress on your machines since we both started out about the same time! I read the Tips and Tricks on ColorFabb, it looks like you are doing everything they suggest Adviced 3d printing temperature: 240-260C (colorFabb_XT filament produced before 7th februari can be printed at 220 - 240C) Adviced 3d print speed: 40 - 70 mm/s Advised Heated bed 60-70C (colorFabb_XT filament produced before 7th februari 2014 can be printed on a cold bed) Build platform For our latest release of colorFabb_XT (production date Februari 2014) we advice to print on a he
    1 point
  25. 1) For the three bed level adjuster screws: A limiter to show where the end of tightening should be. This matters most for the back screw. If someone, like me when I first bought my UM2, is unaware of the heated bed's wire connection being sandwiched in between the bed and the supporting plate, the screw can be tightened enough to put pressure on that connection. Immediate effects: It makes the bed not level. Long term effects: it can cause the soldered joints to fail (that's what I think caused mine to break... I needed to re-solder those connections a few weeks ago). btw: I'm not in
    1 point
  26. Yes. It couldn't do one 220X220 because of the clips but since one of your dimensions (172mm) is nice and small for the platform this is an easy print. Well, easy for me. The biggest issue would be warping off the bed - this is a solved issue but new people still struggle with it. Basically you would need to print some brim on the bottom layer that you can cut off with a razor after the print is done. You would need to use the heated bed at 60C and some glue (comes with the printer). You might be unsuccessful at first but post on the forums here and I'll help you get that cuboid to stick
    1 point
  27. This thread is pretty old, but I feel like I may not be the only one who had that issue, and didn't find this info clearly explained elsewhere (but only parts of it on different threads). I very strongly believe (still under investigation but the first results are pretty encouraging) that this gap is actually crucial (which is why you should follow the assembly guide when replacing the teflon coupler and first place the teflon ALL THE WAY DOWN into the nut, then screw the nut into the nozzle until you get 1mm spacing between the teflon and the nut). From what I've seen so far, I think that
    1 point
  28. - Touch screen or wifi - ability to quickly change print heads so you can add a laser or other extruders (chocolate, dough, ceramics) - higher temperatures
    1 point
  29. SMF.01 is a simple floor lamp that will spread more light in your rooms. Combine our 3D printable set with wood strips & a light cord with light bulb socket to make your own lamp. Self Made Furniture (SMF) is a new collection designed by the polish designers UAU Project to encourage and inspire people to become makers. The 3D models can be downloaded here: https://cults3d.com/en/home/smf-01
    1 point
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