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Here my project has been growing over the last 2 weeks. I first made sections with one glass and I coupled them And now it is the final size and very difficult to move:) And here it belongs as you see the station still needs a lot of work But it is getting somewhere. And difficult to put it on my camera it is getting to big...

I bought an olsson block recently from @swordriff, and in my opinion it is the No1. upgrade for the Ultimaker. If you are going to do anything to your UM2, it's got to be an olsson block. Now go all the way and fit Robert's feeder as well. Once you have the olsson block and Robert's feeder in place you will wonder why they have not become stock UM2, the difference is that huge. Blocked nozzle? 20 seconds to get back to printing with the olsson block. Change your filament mid-print? 20 seconds with Robert's feeder.

Thanks for all the help. Looking at neotko's suggestions and that build looks awesome. Will definitely be borrowing from the list of mods. On the above image you can see the Ultibot on the left in a much more clear resolution with minimal drag. On the right is an OctoPi case for the raspberryPi . Turned out very well but I would suggest against a brim. My UMO+ is coming along nicely and i'm getting a feel for some of the nuances needed for proper printing. I am grateful for the community and support provided here. It was most certainly one of the biggest features associated with Ultimaker.

Hi all, These are some of my first studies that I made. The first stl file without errors and to see how it copes with different levels of subpatching. I made a tiny one, up to a larger one this night (that took about 12 hours to print, it was the first stress test sorta speak as well ). Everything is done on easy/medium settings.

I use "cube stick" as glue for flex pla. Works fine and probably easier than tape...

Haha, no i'm not that advanced! The third 'umbilical' is for the parts fan on the main gantry head

Without a brim parts often warp up off the bed. If you get the right tools you can remove it pretty quickly with a nice razor. Usually I do my own custom brim in CAD and just put pads on the corners like the makerbot slicer does. But this is harder to remove as it's a diagonal infill - but worth it as you only have to remove a few spots instead of every little inside corner which is unnecessary - you only need the outside corners.

its not the easiest to print with and would suggest you use Roberts feeder with the snap on guide. you can also put a drop of oil in the bowden tube. These are the settings XYZ workshop recommend to print their dress so could be a good start. Temperature - 230°C Speed- 10-15mm/s Sliced at 0.15mm Retraction - Off Fan- Off Masking tape on top of heated bed

In 'the future' when you get the felling that there's room from improvement, check the post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5103-ultimaker-black-edition there's many mods listed. Personally I love the twisterblocks and gt2 pulley/belt upgrades. Also if you fell the ultimaker 'shakes' too much get some printed foots and check Motion/Acceleration to down it to 2000-2500. It depends on how stable it's your table, how well everything it's fitted, etcetc.

This is important yes. On the youtube channel of the videos I posted there was a tutorial

This pointed me to a simple solution I guess I was over thinking things. Forgot the stepper motors are on slots so the mounting can be adjusted. I simply loosened the screwed and pressed down. Took all the slack right out. Next test

Thanks neotko Going back to basics and verifying set screws are tight and stops registering properly.

The pins i used (had them at home, dont know the source) did work right out of the box with no sanding, it surely was tight but i did not need too much pressure to fit the bearings to the shaft. @neotko, it sounds like you have got hardened pins, those are as hard as the file so thats why almost nothing happens. You can soften it by using a small gas burner to heat it to red hot and let it cool in air. A M5 screw is not that good of an option, i would look for a piece of silver steel rod (a good hardware store) or just a 5mm stainless steel shaft (hobby/rc stores can be a local source), both

so I was directed to this forum by sander. May question was why not fix the website and calling a beta a beta and directing to the last stable version of cura? my request was also fix it and not answer this post (at least one of your programmer agreed that this was a mistake, and about >5 posts in the forum do so), ...but too late... @SandervG: and yes I used the inappropriate button in the wrong sense I could not resist, because I am childish...

I can't believe how much the answers we get about simple stuff like 'beta it's beta, so just say it so before download it', it's always answerd on a perfect manner with very tasty correct ways, but on the end the answer it's no. This it's related to "https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17259-cura-150603-strange-very-high-feedrate-motions-generated?page=1&sort=#reply-117338" After all that discussion, 'A new release will come shortly' it's the answer? If you are a Political sure, but a human answer like 'we will think on that' or 'we don't like that idea after talking about that