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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/11/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Yes you found the fault You are a hero
  2. 2 points
    I just came across this article, where in Amsterdam you can now find 3D printed figurines, based on refugees. Apparently these figurines will direct you to a website where some refugees tell their stories and you can help. 'Although the stage may appear to be miniature in size, the voices behind these figurines are what speak the loudest. ' Great initiative, and I like those public guerilla projects. Not exactly comparable, but like Sad Neo and Little people. Unfortunately, I never came across one in real life.. :( Did anyone ever? And to speak with the author's voice; 'no matter where we come from or what are beliefs may be, we are all, first and foremost, an equal part of humanity.'
  3. 2 points
    Haha, I've given the frog to my brother! The accuracy is taken care of my the magnets and the locating cones idea that foehnsturm came up with. The head offsets are set in cura until they are perfectly aligned (although I think I can do more on that, will print more calibration items off). By using a wipe and prime tower, the oozing nozzle isn't a problem, as it just gets caught on that before moving to the print. I would still like to try to incorporate a wipe anyway though to neaten up the build area a bit. Here's a photo of a finished robot before cleaning up: The White and orange are both pla. My next print I'm going to try abs and pla. I've done a njnjaflex and pla print which turned out ok, but pla doesn't adhere to ninjaflex that well.
  4. 1 point
    At Open Bionics, we've been experimenting with automatically changing the filament in the hotend. The goal was a solution which could accept as many different filaments as we could control off the board, with only one hotend. In theory it wouldn't require complicated parts, and could be highly expandable. The idea was to withdraw the current filament from the hotend, and push another one in, extrude that, and repeat. We used a "tight" demultiplexing part, where the filaments were fully enclosed by bowden tube for as much time as possible. This part screwed onto the top of the U2 head. The filaments slided through easily, although some chamfering with a knife was needed on the inside of the receiving bowden tube to enable a smooth transition. Withdrawing the filaments (we are experimenting with PLA and ninjaflex) caused significant stringing on the withdraw - which blocked the bowdens. We experimented with different withdrawal rates, and temperatures. We found some success with double and triple "dipping" techniques - where instead of pulling the filament straight out, it was dipped back into the hot end, and then withdrawn again, to detach the string. A similar technique is used in industrial cake decorating robots! We managed to develop dipping techniques for both plastics which avoided any stringing, and produced the most consistent head. However, even our best attempt was temperamental - one day it would work, the next not... The dipping process was implemented by altering the Tool Change Command in Cura. We gave up feeding flexible filament through a bowden, and switched to the Flex3drive (a direct drive). This posed a problem with our technique: the flex3 could only withdraw filament as far as just above its gripper wheel, meaning we could extrude extremely well, but couldn't change filament. We developed the idea of using bowden extruders simply to change the filament, with the flex3drive providing the actual extrusion force. We had some success with pushing through the bowden, and then switching to the flex3 and getting it to grab the filament and push it through - but again, it was temperamental. Ideally both steppers would be pushing at the same time to get a good grab, but the firmware mods were taking too long... Worth noting that the you need to disable the bowden stepper whilst the flex3 is extruding (this is a firmware bodge) - it is strong enough to pull through the disabled stepper (but not enabled!). Even when this is done, the filament tends to build up tension and then ping through, leading to an inconsistent extrude volume. Further difficulty is added by the e_steps being different between the drives, so no easy electronics fix there. The upside to using the flex3 is that the filament path behind the flex3 doesn't have to be fully enclosed. We used an "open" demultiplexer part, where the deformed filament heads are stored when unused. This avoids the heads getting stuck in tight bowden tube (the bowden down to the flex3 was drilled out to 3.5mm). This part was very easy to make - and works well. It also eliminates compression in the filament between the drivers because of the open section. So... we made some progress with this technique. However, there were too many points of uncertainty introduced: the strings, the flex3 grabbing the filament, the tension between extruders, clogging in the demultiplexers. We concluded that it's a road fraught with difficulty! On paper it works, but printers will be printers. Would be very interested to hear if you've managed to get this to work! TLDR: - Retracting filaments from hotend causes strings - difficult to get rid of - Need to use flex3 to consistently extrude flexible filament - Difficult firmware mods to get flex3 to grab filament from bowden tube - Filament changes are very slow - Poor synchronisation between extruders leads to inconsistent extrude volume - Don't try this at home!
  5. 1 point
    I have been in the CAD/CAM software development business for over 25 years. Before that I wrote slicers and post processors and wrote code at MIT. I am an older guy now and have enjoyed making things again with CAD. I found UM and Cura and love the openness of the code and the community. However this topic of auto slice or not has me discouraged. Cura developers, please understand you cannot build the perfect product. Customers will use your products and each person has their own quirks and bugs that are called preferences. The customers are telling you that too many of us have the same preference. Please reconsider your responses and be brave and imagine how many will applaud the option to choose auto slice or no slice at all. Remember that feedback is like an iceberg,... what you see here on the forums is only the tip.
  6. 1 point
    Yes i have experimented with different concentrations, dont even waste your time. Use pure acetone or nothing at all. I even tried diluting the acetone with a little nail varnish remover and it didnt do a damn thing. the acetone needs to be absorbed by the PLA and when it 'sweats' is when it smooths. The sweat style condensation that appears after a dip are the impurities coming out and smoothin the surface. You can dip it all day long with low concentrations to no avail. There is no avoiding using pure acetone. Anything less is a waste of time. Ive spent many hours on this believe me, and diluting the acetone is a no go. Think about it, even with pure aceone and pla you barely remove the lines so if you dilute it you wont even barely remove the lines. I havent had the chance to acetone the new um blue pla i got, but the last stuff i had from um smoothed like a dream. You didnt need to dip it, you could vapour smooth it and brush it on untill you were happy the lines had gone. Im gonna be trying it soon so ill let you know.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    You know, I should have done that right away! hahaha I checked the heaters and they measured 8.2 ohms in parallel. After switching back to the stock heater, everything seemed fine. But a few days ago, I got another heating failed error. I went underneath and reseated the heater wires in the terminal block. Since then, I have run a couple 7 hour prints without issue. I'm wondering if that error was just coincidence. The physical size / mass of the heater block isn't as important as the steady state characteristic of the whole thermal system. Basically, looking at all the heat flows (at the desired temp): into the filament, up into the heat sink, and radiative/convective loss. All that combined equals the steady state power consumption. Things like surface area can definitely have a big impact here. But mass / volume would just slightly slow the initial heating.
  10. 1 point
    If you haven't already, put in a support ticket or I can tag @SandervG so he is aware of your issue
  11. 1 point
    Fair point! lol. I should have just said its more effort in general than my method, my bad! By time, i just meant monitoring or keeping an eye on it or general babysitting. I can dip my model and go to sleep and forget about it after 35seconds of effort, but i cant put in the oven and go to sleep, it would also need time to heat up and cool down not to mention all the rubbing mentioned afterwards and the fact that i dont thing it will work......the waiting thing after the dip is for best effect.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks for your quick response! I'll ask the support.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Indeed, I even read that all figurines are hand painted.
  15. 1 point
    We do want people testing the new version, else it will never get out of beta
  16. 1 point
    It would be an interesting idea to sell these online and donate the profits. Like a crowd funded charity.
  17. 1 point
    I have a random question. What are you doing as far as making sure that the head stays accurate? Do you add limiter switches to the front, left, and right to re-zero the head when you pick those heads up? Also are you cooling the unused head after a switch? Do you think that you could build a wipe plate at the nozzles "resting location" to wipe the nozzle after pickup and before drop off? Have you considered using that heat resistant rubber for a wiper on those...hmmm...i don't know what these are called. http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-High-Heat-Spoon-Scraper/dp/B00Q8KIMC4 I made something similar for a previous employer for a tool switcher for a multi-axis cnc mill except it was a quick high pressure spray of coolant, dragging it through a wire brush with a slow backspin and dipping it in its rest in oil so I am very interested in how yours will turn out.
  18. 1 point
    @ataraxis I was looking for other stuff and I saw this, I don't know much about this stuff but seems like it might work (the e3d little amplifier) http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D_PT100_Amplifier_Documentation
  19. 1 point
    We've got ninjaflex and PLA printing well out of 2 nozzles, as per my post in the Flex3 thread, linked below. This is usable, though not totally reliable (though often bizarre non-recurring errors, such as z-shifts mid way through a 20 hour print...). We've also got a Diamond Nozzle (discussed below). For now, the yield rates are unsatisfactory, so multi material is going on the back-burner. We'll look into The Palette, or a 3mm Diamond Nozzle, when released. Interchangeable heads plus diamond nozzle would be fantastic (6 filaments!) - but we need to get the individual components working well enough first. This demultiplexing idea is also on hold, until we muster up the courage to try it again! I don't see the Flex3drive as mutually exclusive to any solution. I've designed parts to allow it to be mounted on each of the diamond nozzle heatsinks - and it could work on interchangeable heads too. Simply, where there is flexible filament, we're going to need a flex3. Reducing the hot zone could work. We've also been experimenting with the Diamond Nozzle (on a Lulzbot), which has produced decent results printing with PLA and ninjaflex. The temperature difference doesn't seem to be too much of a problem. The main issues have been with the nozzle oozing during the print (both materials), and filament jamming in the bowdens (we're using 3mm filament in a partially drilled out 1.75mm diamond - so not ideal!). See here. Will hopefully get the U2 flex3 STLs up soon.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Ulticoffee for makers mmmm sweetened with magnalube
  22. 1 point
    Tree frog success. Printed at 80% size, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s.
  23. 1 point
    Haha, no i'm not that advanced! The third 'umbilical' is for the parts fan on the main gantry head
  24. 1 point
    Meh, I might be bothered to build it next week. I will call it the BARBARIAN plugin though
  25. 1 point
    @Zoev89, can you give some more details on what phone you are using, and what version of android? We need that info if we want to fix this. Thanks!
  26. 1 point
    It's me , when i want read the "Estimated Print-time" Please for my eyes....i'm young.... Thank !
  27. 1 point
    @TheDeugd @SandervG I think you should consider Robert idea ...
  28. 1 point
    We did test, quite a bit. But... well, all our originals where upgraded to + or heated bed upgrade status. So that was missed. There is a workaround, you can enable the heated bed setting and set that to 0, that will work around this problem till we have a fix out.
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