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Salut Suite aux diverses discutions sur la résistance inter-couches en Z je vous propose une voie en attendant un futur test mécanique / température d'extrusion. L'idée c'est d'augmenter la largeur d'extrusion du remplissage pour un même diamètre de buse et ainsi augmenter l'adhésion des couches. Afin de d'accentuer les effets de suintement et d'augmenter la visibilité j'ai volontairement imprimé ce test à 265° sur une couche de 0.4 m avec une buse de 0.8 mm le tout à petite vitesse 30 mm/s sur Simplify3d.

For your information, I have decided to remove ProCoPrint3D from the forum. Not for the sole reason of promoting a different brand, but because there was a problem in his attitude where he refused to comply to our house rules. Please feel free to read them.

Yesterday I had sometime and assembled one on my new umo+. The extra holes (pure luck) ain't block by the IRobertI feeder so it will allow to disassemble the upgrade on one piece. But to assemble it's a bit tricky to do it but posible. I still need to turn on the new umo+ but my test will be with normal motor with 1.75 filament. Anyhow everything fits nicely and the footprint is really sweet. Great design @meduza !

If someone who needs the original "ultimaker 2" or "ultimaker 2 extended" frame in a 6mm aleminum dibond, please send me materials and i will manufacture and send you back free. I am unable to find 6mm dibond in cyprus.therefore, if you just send a additional frame material for me i will do yours free of charge If someone's original frame also broken...send me front panel or any frame part and i will do it...This is the Ultimaker friendship ( note: after I have 2 frame i will not ask additional dibond and continue to make it free

Just an update: FBRC8 had a replacement fan in the mail within an hour of emailing them. I'll have it in hand on Monday. I couldn't ask for better service than that!

I finally replaced my tape mounted docks with something that clamps to the frame... and made some tiny size adjustments along the way...

Sorry I haven't shared any photos, but here's mine: I'm going to be tweaking the mount I designed for the spool holder some more as it slumps slightly down right now. I'll get more pictures, soon.

255 is a little bit hot for ABS - that is hot enough to burn bits of it and also hot enough to cause a nasty clog if you print too slow. I suppose if you are at 3 cubic mm/sec it might be okay (to check printing volume speed hover mouse over the print speed - it's a combination of nozzle diameter, print speed, and layer height). Also the variation on temp sensors can be + or - 10C. So consider printing at 250C instead. Or even 245C. I can't go below 245C or I don't get good layer bonding. Also 70C bed temp is not hot enough to prevent warping corners off the bed for ABS. I recommend 100C bed temp and enclose the front of the machine if not also the top. Although if your part is sticking to the bed then I suppose you don't need to worry about the temperature thing.

Nice idea with the coupler, but those shafts seem to have a flat on the end, should be quite easy to design a nice knob with a stop screw to prime the feeder instead of using a coupler

No, it is not that one. AFAIK we don't have LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER on the UltiController... Interestingly enough, Daid implemented a configurable beep (See this commit), but I see no evidence that these parameters were ever used... The only other evidence I see from a change is this commit where we go from 150 to 5000Hz... Need to experiment a bit with all that... [Edit] Actually this last commit is probably the explanation. The standard Ultimaker builds (and mine) are with the 150Hz -- delay(3) -- beeps while the Robotfuzz one uses 5000Hz -- delayMicroseconds(100). So when people move from the one to the other they get a different beep experience

Process is 1) download github's "ultimaker 2" STL files 2) opened in 3ds max and by selecting edges of sides, i send it to autocad as 2d (dxf files) 3) I put ultimaker 2 extended picture into autocad. I aligned with the "ultimaker 2" drawings and find the measurements (approximately) ( UM² extended is 10 cm longer than UM²) 4 I import dxf files to CNC router program and I adjust the blade thickness. CNC process is crucial. You have to know CNC router well ( for example when Plexiglass is cutting, direction of the mill is crucial etc...

Just one tip... if you make the extended I would advice to place the spool holder lower (from the bottom just as low as on the um2) for more straight fillament going into the feeder....

@neotko, of course you can suggest changes, feedback is one of the reasons for open sourcing it from the start, i want to make this as good as possible :-) I have uploaded a new version to Thingiverse with 0.15mm larger nut traps and 4.2mm wide holes over the motor screws (i had to shorten them a bit compared to your version to not make the hole too much into the nut trap, but you should be able to angle the screwdriver slightly with no problem) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-geared-um2-feeder-upgrade The file is "geared-feeder-plate-V2.stl" The shafts also look great, and if you add a knob to the outside you should as you say be able to use it to manually purge the feeder

Tree frog success. Printed at 80% size, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s.

Congratulations on completing your Ultimaker