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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/16/2015 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi guys, thanks for helping out @therazerkid So just abit of background therazerkid has bought a brand new ultimaker2 from us here in australia. He hasn't been getting any good prints on his machine. He is using all UM filaments. We've tried troubleshooting with him along with our local reseller iprint3d. Checked pulleys are not loose Checked firmware and software both using 15.04.02 after a number of unsuccessful rounds of testing we got it shipped back to us to the other side of australia in Melbourne from WA. We also provide a loan machine for him to use while we repaired his machine. Upon receiving we tested the machine. Our first observation was that the bed thumbscrews were far too loose. We tightened this and proceed to test print several models. They all came out perfect. No banding issue. And we couldn't replicate his problem. So naturally we thought problem solved. It was a loose unstable bed. Before therazerkid got back his machine iprint3d had done his own test printing a Le fab elephant and came out perfect as well. Now therazerkid has got back his machine, he is still having the same banding issues. We thought perhaps something got loose during transport like the axis rods. Therazerkid has confirmed this is secure. I have requested therazerkid to print a gcode I sent him and take a video of the printer in action and showing us the print head, and the settings he use on the printer. Hopefully we can spot the problem from the video.
  2. 2 points
    Think your part has a big footprint so you don't need to use a brim at al imho .. If you'r worried about sharp corners lifting you can also make small "ears" on it in CAD, so you have less material to remove, like this;
  3. 1 point
    Hi, I wonder if it's possible to improve the print status display. So 1 hour is not very informativ because it could be 1h 59 min as well 1 h 1 min. Generally output in minutes would be more informativ. 119 min or 61 min for example. Furthermore, instead of the progress bar actual and preselected temperature of buildplate and print head could be more useful. Uli
  4. 1 point
    I had done a few small prints on my UM2go with CPE and it worked ok till i printed one with a bigger base. So I found a $15 silicon heat pad that's 24v 10w and the perfect size. So my question is, If i plug this in with a flat PT100 on it, will this work or kill my UM2go? Some concerns I have are is the power supply big enough to handle another 10w? am i able to tell the firmware that a heat pad is present? Or will the main board just release its smoke?
  5. 1 point
    After printing with the standard 0.4 nozzle and Carls (http://3dsolex.com/) changeable nozzles (0.4 and 0.6) i must get two things of my chest: Why does UM not put the changeable nozzle standard on all UM's? Changing the 3Dsolex nozzle is a piece of cake and different nozzles give different results and advantages. When the nozzle is ruined by bamboo (frustration...) or another experiment, you simply change the nozzle in a minute. Nozzle 0.6 really rules. A 0.6 shell is solid enough, so one 0.6 shell layer is enough. With 0.4 nozzle you print a 0.8 shel, so you print the shell twice. With 0.6 that is just once and that saves some filament and loads of time. In normal print work i do not see the difference with 0.4
  6. 1 point
    While a changeable nozzle system is certainly desired on a FDM printer, I understand why UM is not stressing too much on changing the hotend. First, they might have a significant number of heater blocks / hotend of the current design on stock. Second, changing these parts might make it necessary to repeat some offical tests like EMC which is ususally quite some money.
  7. 1 point
    Apparently, it was about the filament. I tried to print the same model using Ultimaker black and pink PLA. Black worked without any problem; and the pink with almost no problem. Thanks again ultiarjan.
  8. 1 point
    Well the z adjustment addon works great. It's a bit bigger and I'll try to make it smaller but for now I need to focus on the wiper and fixing 'again' my umo+ board since freaking again the transistor died (even with the pwm bow outside). So right now I'm a bit tired of this board and I'll just have to take out two of the 4 fans and connect them on an outside pwm box to 'hopefully' avoid killing this weak board transistor again. I just can't get it but the only factor that's common to all the events it's that I did turn off the machine while having the fan at max. Anyway this are the photos of the z addon. Works great and it's big for now to have a really really stable sollution (without just changing the full design).
  9. 1 point
    Scaling is laggy with or without the slicing. The slicing is done in a separate thread, but all the gui stuff is done on a single core (due to python reasons)
  10. 1 point
    Hello Mahmoud, Problem is not the simplicity of your question. It's the complexity of it, and also because it seems you have some misconceptions that needs to be addressed. But fear not Controller 1 I'll strongly recommend using an Arduino + Ramps combination over the UM build. Partly because of the price, but mostly because you do not get locked down when going the Arduino way, and you can use the board for other projects later on. The UM2 controller board is based on arduino + something and is just their own package of the same with some added features. I'll bet it's easier to start out with Arduino + Ramps as it has much more info on it.. that said, you CAN find preconfigured Firmware for UM2 board https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin - if you go this route, you learn "nothing" though. But that can be ok if it is what you want. Controller 2 You might even look at Rambo boards or similar, which are combined and extended arduino+"ramps", but lets say you go for the "Arduino Mega 2560 r3 + Ramps 1.4 road" Firmware Marlin Then you need the Marlin firmware, found on Github: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin you really only (mostly) need to edit just 1 file in there: "Configuration.h" you might want to change some info in the "Configuration_adv.h" and maybe pins file... but you can simply read through all the files. Some are just code, skip those, but others are filled with usefull comments. Mostly I just searched/googled if I needed to add some feature, to figure out where I needed to make some change (if it wasn't in the 2 standard files) Arduino IDE You use the Arduino IDE program to open the Marlin firmware files, which are really just a bunch of files. Each called a "sketch". You use the program to modify the firmware files, meaning you change parameters to match your build. Then you press upload and the Arduino IDE is going to Compile it and upload it to your device. https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Firmware HEX file That is just a precompiled firmware file, which you can upload using Cura. Cura Cura is not a program you are using to setup/configure your printer in any way at all. Cura is a Slizer program, which means it opens the 3D object file, usually an STL, and slizes it into layers with information on print-speed, temperature etc, and outputs a .gcode file, which your printer uses to figure out how to move to print the object.. Understanding all the parts of a 3D printer: That is the real challenge now :)You could read the instructable I made a while ago Complete newbie step by step, 3D printer with all parts lists and use Google a lot. My instructable has nothing to do with ultimaker, but then again, I've tried to cover all parts of a 3D printer and Ramps in detail, and should prove usefull in those aspects. What clone to build? I'm currently building the extremely cool clone Aluminum Extrusion (2020) UM2 Printer - which you might want to take a look at. - The most info for doing that project can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271 (not firmware wise though) I recieve notifications on this thread, so/and please ask if there's anything :)I can put the firmware somewhere as I'm just finishing it up
  11. 1 point
    Sweet, I pm'd gr5 and he said colorfabb from printedsolid was the way to go. Really looking forward to my bag of Gummy Bears XD
  12. 1 point
    No worries i have tightened all the pulleys and made sure that the belt was not rubbing on the frame and now all is working again. Thanks for the help!
  13. 1 point
    Wish we had that kind of service here in the U.S
  14. 1 point
    I would offer in general 3D printers are more tools than a product you put on the shelf like a paper printer. Like most tools there is a right way and a wrong way to use them. Like complex mechanical tools they have different personalities an quirks. In my very short experience Ultimakers are well behaved when compared to other manufactured brands. Little love goes a long way for successful prints.
  15. 1 point
    He threw in a bag of Gummy Bears on my last order. Our fate is sealed
  16. 1 point
    I can't really see the problem, you just ignore the fact that the auto slicing is going on and go about your work of changing settings, adding things etc.. There is no need to wait for anything.
  17. 1 point
    I had to to tweak my UMO Ulticontroller after about a year. There's discussion somewhere but it's pretty simple. Remove all the wood around it and inside is a potentiometer that you can rotate with a plastic screw driver. Play with that until display looks ideal. It adjusts brightness/contrast or something similar.
  18. 1 point
    UPDATE : another serious try to print the iron throne. A lot better than the first spider's web print though. Still many small threads I had to remove with a pincet afterwards, but I'm getting there. Also, as you can see in the 3rd photo, the plateau did bend at the end of the 45 hours printing, any reasons for this? Any other tips to improve my throne a bit more?
  19. 1 point
    At least it is intended this way... BTW: this applies also to the parking position (during pause) and the positions of the bed leveling wizard. And keep in mind that the x/y "home" position is x_min / y_max if you calculate the values.
  20. 1 point
    I think this is what you want: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code And to get you started: ;Layer count: 3039 //I think this is self explanatory ;LAYER:0 //I think this is self explanatory M107 //Print cooling fan off G0 F9000 X98.997 Y100.966 Z0.300 //Set Feedrate to 9000 (F) and do a rapid linear move (G0) to the specified XYZ coordinates ;TYPE:SKIRT //Start printing skirt G1 F1200 X106.740 Y95.343 E1.14832 //Feedrate to 1200 and Linear move (G1) to the specified XY coordinate, while extruding 1.14832 mm. filament etc. Btw. are you sure those are the first lines of code? I would expect something like this to come before it (Kind of a bad example as this is a 1 layer print with almost no time or filament used... but it was something I had lying on my desktop and I guess you get the idea): M190 S60.000000 ;Set bed target temp. to 60 degrees and wait M109 S220.000000 ;Set hotend target temp to 220 degrees and wait ;Sliced at: Tue 18-08-2015 21:19:56 ;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 0.8 Fill: 0 ;Print time: 0 minutes ;Filament used: 0.02m 0.0g ;Filament cost: None ;M190 S60 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S220 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F12000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F12000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing...
  21. 1 point
    Tree frog success. Printed at 80% size, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s.
  22. 1 point
    i agree about the waste, but i don,t cut off tiny pieces any more, and as this printer is not mine i want to get the best i can with the stock equipment. if you show me where to buy the parts and stuff id give it a go but i dont have the time to research this at the mo as i'm going through a bad patch at work and have enough to worry about as it is, on top of maintaining the printer and doing my daily work and the usual life problems. id love to be able to do everything but i just dont have the time, thats when i resort to paying for stuff. i do a lot as it is, lol. bearings wont stop a tangle unfortunately so if i want something almost guaranteed perfect i know im highly likely to get it off the roll. i do print on the roll, but only when the filament used is too much to cut off the roll. my early prints where all on the roll, so its not completely useless, but the angle of the roll holder would greatly benefit from being at a slight angle towards the feeder as the fact that its straight means its always pulling harder towards the printer when its further away on the roll which shifts the filament and most likely is responsible for a large proportion of tangles.
  23. 1 point
    We are going into our 3rd year now, those kids were from the 2nd year. We have learned a TON! kids love 3D printing, you can get at so much math and other technology ideas when the carrot at the end is their own 3D printed object. You can look over some of our slides from two presentation we did at the 2015 US NSTA STEM conference , here http://tinyurl.com/kxseykr
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