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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/21/2015 in all areas

  1. Triggered by a comment of @dim3nsioneer here on the forum I decided to try the setup of 2 Olsson blocks (@swordriff) in one head, to be able to quickly and safely switch between PLA and ABS, simply by operating separate hot ends and feeders for both materials. This also means you can use an alternative for your PTFE coupler for ABS (for example 3dsolex IPM coupler) but it's also usefull if you just use 2x PTFE, as the one used on ABS, with higher temperatures may get deformed, and will still be ok for ABS but not for PLA. In this test setup I used a standard PTFE + Korneels "spring replacement
    2 points
  2. out of these, more abstract wanderings I managed to squeeze out some more functional related designs. One is a bowl, that you can find here. the other one is a cutlery design for appetizers that you can find here.
    2 points
  3. I agree with the others in that there's too much space between the extruder and the bed. Personally, I think the "paper sliding" method is pretty terrible – paper is less uniform in thickness than most people think, and the idea that you should be able to feel when it's right is really tough for new users! Here's what I recommend: Go to your local hardware or automotive parts store and pick up a set of mechanic's feeler gauges ($5 US at Harbour Freight, but less than $10 just about anywhere). For the initial 1mm setting, put the .8 & .2 mm blades together, then adjust the bed heigh
    1 point
  4. Some guys on a printr bot forum have discussed getting the printrbot to work before. You can find it on http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10030
    1 point
  5. What kind of functional parts have you made? For your own use at home?The potential of 3D Printing is indeed huge. In so many levels. Independency, peer to peer networking, globalisation, less waste, faster and more development, democratising markets etc. So many beautiful things. But that is a whole other topic
    1 point
  6. Hi all, someone pointed me towards this very interesting video the other day about playing around with new forms/fractals. pretty amazing if you ask me More and more I see options to go back to nature for answers, and strangly so (paradoxically?) trough the use of a computer. Like we are slowly embedding computed calculations more and more as part of our own in the process of designing. One remark though, those collums still needs steel support from the inside, so it still has no structural value, a reason sorta speak to do this. at the moment this has more a baroque like decorative
    1 point
  7. Thank you for your reply. What was your goal when you decided to buy an Ultimaker? Did you already have a thought on what direction you will be heading after your abstract studies? Functional things for in the house, or? Saw the thread by the way, looking good! Curious to see where this is headed! Well, I'm curious about it too I'm having a great time with those abstract studies, but now my first more functional pieces are there as well. It's great to transform a 3D image into a object, that's for sure. Great for testing things out for design, and art wise it has a lot of potential. I
    1 point
  8. Direction la CCI la plus proche de chez toi. Ils sauront te répondre. Ils font des ateliers spéciaux pour aider les gens a commencer (35euros pour y assister. Généralement 2 fois par semaine mais ça doit changer suivant où tu habites) Les grandes lignes: Tu dois immatriculer ton entreprise (au RM ou RCS). C'est gratuit pour les micro entrepreuneur. Tu as un maximum de chiffre d'affaire à ne pas dépasser : environ 32K€ Tu dois déclarer ton CA tout les mois (ou tout les 3 mois, au choix) Tu payes 22.9% de ton CA en cotisations (sociales et impôts) Donc si pas de CA (tu vends rien), pas de
    1 point
  9. At first i bought an Ultimaker 2 because i wanted to do something creative, i'm a software developer and i wanted something that combines IT and creativity, that's when i got interested in 3d printing. After some research i found that my best bet was to go for an Ultimaker 2, and i was right! I print a lot of unuseful stuff mainly for fun, figurines, vases, busts etc... I also have a project for Veterinary use that you can find here: https://www.facebook.com/3D2Vet For the moment we are testing external fixators for complicated bone surgeries, this is an example: This replaces Titanium
    1 point
  10. Hi there Didier, No, I don't work in a restaurant Right now I'm using lightwave 3D (https://www.lightwave3d.com/)
    1 point
  11. I like that do you work at a restaurant? What software are you designing with?
    1 point
  12. Awesome. Some interesting work you are doing and a bit different which is good.
    1 point
  13. If I understand what you're saying, the deal is that you when you change speed you want to retune other parameters as well to get results comparable to the speed your more familiar with. Basically, all of your settings inputs form a configuration space. The problem is that this space is very large in terms of number of dimensions, and it's hard to tell how the parameters interact. If we want to move into the higher speed portion of the configuration space, what other things do we need to change? It seems like changes in settings are largely propagating by trial and error relative to each hard
    1 point
  14. Hi Sander, thanks for the detailed explanation. Now I entirely understand what happened and how to avoid this problem in future. I already contacted igo3d and they sorted it out very fast and professional (will send you a PM)
    1 point
  15. If you are in a rush simply run the model through the netfabb website - it's free, takes a few seconds and fixes 90% of the problems with models to make them printable.
    1 point
  16. Also, here is a practical use of your sculpture, a coat hook. Or somewhere to hang up your carcasses, or parts thereof perhaps.
    1 point
  17. OK, maybe i overeacted some what and in my own world of stress completely forgot that were probably not talking the same versions, lol. I'm using an older version, 15.02.01. as I found the new one took even longer to load my files and even refused some, but as my version is no longer supported, i cant actually complain seeing as i was just complaining about the 'eternal delay' which no longer seems to be a problem, in the new one. So my bad! i have a bad temper, sorry.
    1 point
  18. I also make a lot of one-off parts that can't be bought, mostly mechanical - spacers, hangers, brackets, clips. I don't open a toolbox or dig through scraps looking for solutions any more, but rather 3D model and print what I want (and occasionally need). I do the same for friends and customers whose eyes light up when they see a 3D printer in action - they are the ones who "get it"
    1 point
  19. Well you know some of the things I make But I also make a lot of thing for around the house. Not like vases but holders and 1off things that you cant buy. Mostly its for personal projects some projects for others. I just wish you would hurry up and release a Metal 3d printer
    1 point
  20. 2015.09.18 Update: I discovered that my problems were not with the filament, but with the Teflon spacer. I swapped it out and all of my issues went away. The Colorfabb is actually printing at 210C and at 55mm/s right now which is blowing my mind. I have printed over 500 hours and my spacer looked pretty bad when I took it out. I commented more about it in this post: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16129-ultimaker-2-grinding-at-feeder-mechanism?page=1&sort=#reply-118866 Previous post: I just purchased & used some Colorfabb PLA/PHA in White for use with my Ultimaker 2 and have h
    1 point
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