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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/07/2015 in all areas

  1. I am having the exact same issue, and I'm on my 6th returned spool from UM support, all bad so far. This is a summary of what everyone has been saying: 1. PLA off the roll seems fine, I can usually print long print jobs. 2. Every day the PLA breaks at the point it's entering the extruder and has a very brittle area around this. 3. Once the PLA is "straightened" for a while it become brittle and break easily. here's a video showing my testing method and results. SO far the batch numbers I have been sent that are "bad" are: UM-7021b075 150508b04-11 UM-7021b075 150508b04-12 UM-7021b075 150508b04-6 UM-7021b075 150508b04-9 UM-7021b075 150508b04-317 UM-7021b075 150508b04-324 I have read before that UM changes sources for their PLA from time to time, I think they are buying from a new source that is sub-par with the quality we've all come to take for granted. The bad stuff is shrink wrapped with a desiccant pack inside. I got some silver rolls from them early this year(2015) with that was not shrink wrapped, it's great.
    2 points
  2. Huh, didn't add up the bills so far. I was looking for quality not for cheap parts, so it's quite some money. Roughly: motion system parts (MISUMI) 250 €, smoothieboard and display 200 €, x/y/z steppers 50 €, laser cut metal parts 150 € + belts, bearings, PSU, ... I'll use the magnetic mount in a modified way which allows the slide-on-wedge move for coupling and decoupling from both sides. Printheads will be a story for its own. 1,75 mm E3D Lite to start with, and a modified direct drive.
    2 points
  3. @ultiarjan, I hope not..lol. It is going to be the first 3D printing show in the city and you can understand how I feel. I hope to get a good sleep.
    1 point
  4. Tiens, la dernière fois que je l'ai vu il n'avait pas tous ces cheveux. J'espère que ce n'est pas les émanations de PLA qui en sont la cause....
    1 point
  5. So, habe den Verkäufer mal angeschrieben, scheint alles zu passen, Maße stimmen, etc. Dazu habe ich das MK8 Antriebsrad bestellt. Wenn alles da ist berichte ich mal. Grüße Marcus
    1 point
  6. Curiosity killed me. Did a cylinder 6cm vby 6cm via latest cura and octoprint. ABS, full fans 220hotend 80table. I'm amazed at my first result!
    1 point
  7. Did a quick speed test. The tower on the left uses the gear extruder the one on the right uses the stock extruder. The gear extruder looks good up to 120mm/s where the stock extruder starts showing signs of underextrusion around 70mm/s. Both printers were printing clear XT at 240C.
    1 point
  8. I hope you're not planning to stay awake again this time
    1 point
  9. Thanks, you guys are great. I will upload the print once it is done. 34 hour print job!
    1 point
  10. J'ai trouvé cette vidéo qui peut aider ceux qui ne connaissent pas Cura: Vidéo explicative de Cura (en anglais) (Aussi rajoutée dans les liens utiles au cas ou)
    1 point
  11. Thank you for your good questions. To reduce the load on the extruder, print hole is not round, but in the form of droplets to remove air from the hole. Select the optimum depth of the holes and fill them 3/4. I think the depth does not exceed 1.5 mm. If the hole 10 layers of which remained not filled with 2 layers bottom and one from above, the neighboring hole will start from the layer 4 and the spike will start from the layer 6. So, do not necessary to know the exact volume of the hole.
    1 point
  12. oufffff Now this firmware is not a baby but a teenager...probably the best example of open source system. Big thanks @tinkergnome !
    1 point
  13. @kelechi, in the case of the failure in the middle of a big print, I modified the original model by cutting off the part that was printed successfully, so my new STL only contained the missing stuff. Then, after all the parts were printed, the Superglue was used to finish the job. Just make sure the glued surfaces have some good contact. In my case these were thin (0.8mm) walls, so I used reinforcement plates on the back.
    1 point
  14. I think what pm_dude meant was to rotate it around the z-axis, not so that it's standing on its side. The support is always drawn in the same direction so by twisting the model around you change how it rests on top of the support. See here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints#support-and-object-rotation Some work is being done to improve support in the new generation of cura. I doubt any of that will be back ported to legacy cura.
    1 point
  15. Hmmm, this seems to be a good starting point... Seems to be using the Kinect 2. https://channel9.msdn.com/coding4fun/kinect/Carbonite-and-3D-print-yourself-with-the-Kinect-for-Windows-v2 Or better yet: https://channel9.msdn.com/Blogs/3D-Printing/3D-Builder-Tutorial-Part-5-3D-Scanning-with-Kinect-V2 http://video.ch9.ms/ch9/7543/27d81b6d-0ae2-4431-8016-c49810ae7543/3DBuilderTutorialPart5_high.mp4
    1 point
  16. True, even I cant deny those lines look fairly evenly spaced apart. I hope this never happens to me. Looks like a nightmare. I get mad enough just hearing clicks from the feeder, lol.
    1 point
  17. Just for fun - with power off - try moving the bed up and down by hand. To move it down is easy. To move it up grab on left and right side near the back of the bed and pull up firmly (the printer may lift off the table for a moment). Repeat this several times and try to feel for a regular resistance on each rotation or a noise that repeats once per rotation. Did your printer come with a tiny squeeze tube of green grease? If so consider cleaning the screw completely with wd40 - especially near the top - then grease it with about one or two pea-sized drops of grease.
    1 point
  18. Marlin won't let you print at 170C. If temp dips to 169C then the extruder will stop. So 180C is the lowest you can safely go. Or maybe 175C. Okay - you convinced me it's a Z problem. I know it looks "melty" but I think that's just a very glossy look. Or maybe it's just a glossy kind of filament. Those regular lines are too regular to be anything else. What happens is the Z axis isn't moving the entire .1mm or .2mm so you get over extrusion for a layer and it sticks out. I would contact support.ultimaker.com - your ticket will automatically go to fbrc8.com in memphis. Send them a link to this topic so they can see all the things you tried. Tell them gr5 says you need a complete new Z kit - vertical rods, vertical screw, z motor, z bearings and Z nut. It's a lot of parts but when you get this problem it could be any one of those. Actually because the problem is so regular I would just get a new Z nut and maybe a Z screw. The distance between those "bad layers" appears to be very consistent - possibly every 3mm (the screw I believe moves up 3mm for each rotation? Maybe? I forget - that was the UMO I think - the UM2 moves farther maybe? Anyway I think support.ultimaker.com is going to help you much faster than any other method at this point because you need to start swapping out Z parts. It's much easier to do than you might think.
    1 point
  19. They look extremely melted, suggesting it may actually be printing far hotter that it is telling you, as you cant even see the layer lines. i have never seen such melty print my self, and with colorfabb always can print at 205-209c with near perfect results. Try setting the printer to print at 170 as a test. or just manually dial the temp to 90 and pretend you are doing an atomic pull, and see when the filament start to melt. Mine starts to melt at 130c. but can only push it through quicker at around 190 upwards. if yours starts meltig earlier then its your heating sensor or heater. Also if you could post some ultra close up pics of your atomic pulls, to make sure they are ultra perfect. It might help. I get plenty of material flow, even with a blocked nozzle. I did a print yesterday with a blocked nozzle, it came out perfect, only the first layer or two did i hear the clicking and saw it skipping a few lines as it tried to layer them down. Also try printing without the olsson block installed.....Basically try everything. Ever since i installed my new PFTE my printer started to act differently after a while. No idea why but thats life. I had to change the way i worked. Maybe the olsson block is giving you issues the way its installed or something? Again i'm just guessing. I was going to get the olsson block myself, but as im in the middle of a crazy job, i just cant risk taking anything apart as if i cant put it back together properly or install something right then i simply wouldn't have the time to fix it.
    1 point
  20. Impressive! To be fair, though, the metal fan mount that comes with the UM2 isn't very efficient. It has large pockets where air gets trapped and gaps where air escapes... This is true. As the fans cant really compress the air they don't like pushing against anything. Having a flat surface so close isn't ideal and most 3d printed shrouds with 45deg fan mount have a flat surface very close.. Also you will notice that the fans are a lot quieter when horizontal as there is no side loading.
    1 point
  21. @tinkergnome: OK, so ... 1. Designed a very simple bracket to fix the filament monitor on the back of UM2 (... yes I'm NOT a designer so ... if somebody do better ... is welcome ). You can find HERE 2. Used the original cable and connector. Just rearranged the pin order on the connector, side UM2 (on the top first row of J23 you have, from left to right, pin 5, 3, 1 which are PC7, +5V, GND, which are, on filament monitor, red, white, black). See 1st image. 3. Fixed the "filament monitor bracket + filament monitor" on the back of UM2 using the two holes already present to fix the Z-axis microswitch. See 2nd and 3rd image. 4. Uploaded the new firmware 5. Fixing the "filament monitor" on the back of Z-axis microswitch probably change the zero position of the bed (you have to totally remove the old screw and to insert the new ones) so ... did "Advanced -> Adjust buildplate" to recalibrate. 6. Crossed the fingers :Dand started a long print ... I will let you know Guglielmo
    1 point
  22. Hi you can improve the surface finish of inclined surfaces, printed without support, by using a larger nozzle. The first pic is with a 0.4mm nozzle and the second pic with a .8mm nozzle; same print settings. The extra line width gives more support to the next layer.
    1 point
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