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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/07/2015 in all areas

  1. Hello all :)my promo toy new remix Madcat for Igo3d team
    3 points
  2. We're going to a fair next week, so we stole Ultimaker's idea to print the UM robot at different sizes and nozzles, but keeping the print time the same to show one of the applications for the Olsson block. 30 minutes on each print (except for the wee one, that was a bit longer as I printed three for good measure).
    3 points
  3. eine Redewendung aus dem schwäbischen die Eierlegende Wollmilchsau habe mal kurz einen Dual Druck gestartet mit der Vorlage von ultiarjan (danke dafür) Einstellungen: Layer 0.20mm Temp 1: 241°C Temp 2: 244°C Material: ABS Speed 40mm/s Die Bilder sind direkt nach dem Druck. Habe nix am Druck ausgebessert. Das Blaue Filament hat garnicht getropft. Weiß hat die ersten paar Layer getropft, danach nicht mehr als ich das Retraction etwas erhöht habe und mit der Temp 4°C runter gegangen bin. Die Idealen Einstellungen müssen bei jedem Filament erstmal gefunden werden. Das blaue ist e
    2 points
  4. Never print with pla over 240 degrees. And even 240 is high.like stu_le_brew said you shouldn't need to go over 230. You should do the atomic pull a few times to make sure the nozzle is nice and clean on the inside. As you may have Burnt the material in the nozzle it may take a few pulls to get it all out.
    1 point
  5. Pet is simular to xt so should be fine
    1 point
  6. Just tried the basic tool, like the speed and simplicity but the basic stl quality is poor and a good stl costs $2,5 wich is way to much imho for 1 conversion.... so no thank you
    1 point
  7. yes it's my design, done using 123D design 260 is very hot for PLA, it will caramelise at those temperatures, I would not print PLA over about 230 - if you are having problems printing its worth increasing the temp a little but usually there is some other problem needs fixing sounds like you are getting more confident with fixing problems, I can still remember the fear I had initially to take things apart
    1 point
  8. Pourquoi pas... http://www.purdue.edu/newsroom/releases/2015/Q4/new-revomaker-creates-working-products-straight-from-3-d-printer.html
    1 point
  9. @Labern - any news about this? Is it working? I received all the parts, found the the heater pad interfered with the 2 front clips. I cut sections out but had to patch the element. I installed it all ready to wire but found out about the 3D solex one. So I never progressed further.
    1 point
  10. Everything except the handle is printed in XT-CF20 but I used ABS for the handle. This is obviously a prototype but I still want to test it as a working example for either plastic extrusion or aluminium milling at a later date. Easier said than done of course regarding strength, durability etc but so far so good... bar a few technical issues. I've broken it down into component parts which makes printing easier of course but the handle had to be printed in one piece. Still a long way to go yet tho...
    1 point
  11. I recently printed with a roll of Bronzefill with great success. Printed items at .2 mm at 210 and 40 mm speed on Olson block set up with .4 mm stainless steel nozzle, bed at 50. Doing finish work with patina stains and solutions has been fun with this stuff. I just received Copperfill and Corkfill and will be printing with them within the next week and will let you know how it goes.
    1 point
  12. Everything is trial and error for me still but PLA gets strangely slimy in sea water so I don't bother with it... not convinced it is fully waterproof? ABS is also far easier to sand down but even better is the XT-CF20 as long as you orientate correctly. Not so good for tall prints cos layers don't seem to adhere particularly well. The handle I mentioned was a tall print so ABS was the most suitable material... as I said though all is still trial and error for me. I'll upload some photos when I get time...
    1 point
  13. I would urge ultimaker to come out with a "dual feed 1.75" "single extrusion" .4 and such and a much larger dual feed 1.75" "single extrusion" 1.5 ishmm nozzle. I know it sounds silly at first read, but consider that thought for a minute. If you know much about thermodynamics you will see what my point is.
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. I have different sample coils, small ones from ColorFabb and larger diameter from Faberdashery, not wanting to self plug but for a small sample length of 5m I use the filament hook that the filament just runs over, works fine with under 10m https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dovetailed-mounting-system/embed For larger amounts I designed this assembly, you can make as many arms as you want or need, the first time I unpack a new loose spool I carefully load it on coil by coil, 5 minutes well spent, when finished with I use some little clips with loom bands to keep the spool together, my spool
    1 point
  16. Return it an buy it again LMAO (dont do this) @sandervG
    1 point
  17. So, I wrote a long reply a day ago, but this forum-thing happily ate it all when I was about to post it.. say no more.. Anyway, I would first like to mention that Carl (swordriff) did at least 90% of the work up until Ultimaker started talking about shipping the olsson block it with the printer. Marketing, sales and manufacturing is much more time consuming than designing things after all, lets not forget about that. Then, when approaching Ultimaker, 3DVerkstan played a key role. Without Carl and 3DVerkstan this thread most likely would never have existed! For me the heater block was just
    1 point
  18. just taken a photo of a recent print job for my brother, I thought it would be of interest to you @kelechi [/media] Printed using an Olson block with a 0.60 nozzle, glow in the dark PLA using z hop when retracting - that is to say print the blue letters first then print the rest of the box lid around the letters
    1 point
  19. I crushed the end of my index finger in some old equipment that had no guarding at work yesterday. My fault, I was more thinking about a printer design then what i was doing. The bone fractured and its a bit messy. So to stop me knocking the end of my finger all the time, I printed a splint with a bulb end. It looks a bit rude but does the job.
    1 point
  20. We offer that as a (paid) service. But having the customer around when doing it... while it is always fun to talk with new users (they're so enthusiastic!), the time requirement goes up exponentially. I can do the change fairly quick at this point, but if I had a customer there chatting and asking questions at the same time, I bet it would easily take an hour to do. And then the other guys get in on the discussion and all of a sudden you've "wasted" 4 man hours on a simple nozzle change.
    1 point
  21. Nah, it's actually the thing I predict every time someone makes any kind of guess what the next product is going to be
    1 point
  22. Ok we have a winner!! . . . . . We need a design as an alternative to the 7mm hex Socket which comes with the Olsson Block. There have been several clever entries, but a decision has to be made. Favoured are ideas where the use of the wrench induces as little radial forces as necessary, in this respect the existing 7mm socket it the best but only when combined with Anders Olsson Torque Wrench. All things considered and extremely biased I vote for split between @iroberti and @meduza. Thanks to @iroberti for pointing out (and solving) the problem of the hot nozzle falling down through
    1 point
  23. You could extrude the srf area to bridge and add it as a support. Don't know if I explain myself. But since beta cura allows setting for each object I would jusr make a separated underbridge object and set it 'with supports' (only that object). Don't know if cura beta don't mess with positioning but could work...
    1 point
  24. Those bridging errors are very minor - I recommend not trying to print with perfect bridging as it involves unnecessary changes. e.g. printing slower at start of bridge so "thread" doesn't snap. Or thicker layers. But those are normal - I would just cut them off with a razor or use a butane torch to make them shrink to invisibility with a quick pass over with flame. Or a candle. But razor is probably easiest into that tight area if you don't have a really nice butane torch. Really those are fine for the raptor hand. and the ones underneath - that would touch the back of your hand - thos
    1 point
  25. I had a hard time getting XT-CF20 to stick to the bed. Try slowing your Bottom layer speed down (10-20mm/s) and changing the "Initial layer line width" to something like 120%. The XT filament is "sticky" and tends to want to stick to the nozzle itself so make sure its clean before you print.
    1 point
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