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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/11/2015 in all areas

  1. Hey everyone! I'm new here on the forum - as you can see by that Team Ultimaker badge to the right over there, I work at Ultimaker. I'm still a n00b, just started here two months ago as part of the marketing team. You might have seen my avatar on a blogpost here or there. So quick intro, I'm an engineering dropout (both electrical and computer) turned online marketer. I'm new to the 3D printing scene, less so to the general geekery of making. Some examples of recent side projects are my DIY sous vide machine and my festival boomcase (boombox + suitcase = you get the idea). In the past few y
    5 points
  2. Nice practical use of your printer @GuyS (without the capital S it's guys? ) Welcome aboard @GuyS, you joined a great premium brand in the 3D-print industry. Feel free to share any upcoming products with us if you need any feedback before launching. (we won't tell anyone)
    3 points
  3. Here's a picture of the Cases and Cradles we make for our barcode scanners:
    2 points
  4. In reaction to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-olsson-block-fan-mount – the second version – i started printing the thing. I also printed the https://www.youmagine.com/designs/deflecteur-1p for better cooling of the white insulator, but also for better cooling the alumium thing that holds it all together. Now heat is a problem with objects around the Olson block. Solving it with black graphite stuff and kapton tape is in my opinion first enlarging the problem and then solving it. Most of the heat near the Olsson block that really reaches the fan mount is by radiaton, as conduction
    2 points
  5. Hi guys, I ordered an UMO, but in the light of the new product announcement, have made some enquiries with UM to change the order to a UM+. I originally ordered the dual extruder kit, this being the main driver to get a UMO. So the question is, will the dual kit fit the UMO+? As I understand, a separate power supply would be needed, as the inbuilt one can't drive two heated heads and the bed. So, the options I guess are to either disconnect the heated bed, install a relay and give it a second power supply....OR, and this is preferable if possible....Can I run a second power supply in parallel
    1 point
  6. https://ultimaker.com/es/community/view/8466-ultimaker-origional-and-dual-extruders?page=1 https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17881-ultimaker-dual-extrusion-set?page=last#reply-122150
    1 point
  7. PLA is crystalline, so you can anneal it by baking it at around 65C - 75C for a few hours. This will allow the crystalline structure to regrow, and should sort out the brittleness. There was an interesting discussion here a while ago, scroll down for some interesting references.
    1 point
  8. oui sur le Marvin il y a pas mal de surplomb dans ce cas temp° d'extrusion basse, vitesse d'impression très lente et une bonne ventilation. Une buse de 0.25 couche 0.6 c'est toujours un plus pour des petites impression.
    1 point
  9. A print of a statue of Venus for MyMiniFactory
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. @GuyS great use of a printer - and especially for your first use! - leave it as PLA and see what happens - it is way hardier than most people think and if you are running the shower that hot .... to stop it cracking just thicken up the outer ring and the inner ring and possibly the top - you will get to a point where it is mechancally strong - I hang off PLA handles (chin-up) that I have designed on a daily basis (they are now 2 years old) - it is really strong stuff!
    1 point
  12. Hi all, finally I got all the tings together and put them on youmagine Her you´ll find my design for the clip-on laser head and the electronics. Disclaimer: build on your own risk - I´m not responsible for any damage at you, your stuff or your wife :-) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-laser-head
    1 point
  13. I think I like the "reversed" mounting location better, I'll print off a new gearbox and give it a go.
    1 point
  14. Heres one for the garden, lol.
    1 point
  15. Oh - a few more things - I strongly dont' recommend you go to ABS without first getting really good at PLA. PLA is much easier to print and once you get 100 prints under your belt you will probably be getting "perfect" prints every time. You will see then how frustrating switching to ABS is. And the reason settings aren't posted much in e-nable is because every printer type is different. 210C for the UM2 doesn't translate to 210C for a typical reprap. Plus 10 other details. Even on this forum people get a certain set of settings that work great for them and then they stick with it. Also
    1 point
  16. Here it is adjusted for .15mm layers (I just multiplied byt .2/.15 or 1.33330: 26mm/sec at 200C 40mm/sec at 210C 53mm/sec at 225C 66mm/sec at 240C So it's important to be at 210C minimum. Colorfab tends to be less viscous and you can often print colorfab at lower temps. Or higher speeds.
    1 point
  17. These photos are great earaujo! I wish you posted those initially. Several comments: Your settings look fine - I would change the "bottom layer height" from .25 back to .3 as that is a better choice as you want this pretty thick to compensate for imperfect leveling and imperfect flatness of the glass and gantry structure that moves the head. But .25 is okay. also the fan comes on at full speed by 5mm but that's a little late for many parts (such as the fingers). I think I have mine set to 1mm which seems slow enough. If the fan comes on too fast the nozzle cools too much too fast and yo
    1 point
  18. The black areas on the rods are from not enough lubricant. You need to regularly lube them with a drop of sewing machine oil. Wash the black off with a rag with some sewing machine oil on it. Then more the head around and repeat till it nice and clean. Don't use wd40 or crc
    1 point
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