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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/21/2016 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Ok I admit it, I didnt 3D print this. BUT...i certainly played my part it making Her ultimaker has one more fan to add to the list. Hello World
  2. 3 points
    Yeah, its definitely more fun making things naturally!
  3. 2 points
    No, you have to wait 6 month for the design files of the Ultimaker 2+ to be relased to the public.
  4. 2 points
    Yes i already read that, i dont expect everything seperate, but including the ob would be very annoying since by now almost everyone has one, and it would add around 79euros. I have one and dont even use it so if it was in the upgrade kit, id have two just sitting in a box, as all the currently remaining um2s come with tem and have so for over 2 months. Eitherway, we'll see.
  5. 1 point
    Hi guys, maybe my experience will help someone. So, I've spend a lot of time to solve temperature fluctuation and error type: MINTEMP err I cursed AD597 - huge amount of electric noise was collected by a thermocouple, when I turned on stepper motors that was unacceptable at all, also problem will rise when you have not good power supply with big high frequency noise. I will skip my all attempts with wrong wiring etc how its was says on many forums, so the main error in wrong datasheet and controller AD597 design itself. The solution is simple - Instead of grounding pin (8) of chip, you must include a (pull-down) resistor, 10k-100k, between minus thermocouple pin and the ground. This greatly decreased the electric-noise-induced current picked by the thermocouple, improving your accuracy to about +/-0.1C. Also I put 4,7mF ceramic capacitor to filter +5V and I used 0.22uF ceramic capacitor in OUT signal, that improved my accuracy to at least +/- 0.02C. A brief note, different types of capacitors do differ. For low pass filters, use ceramic! My handdrawn pics and mods photos included!
  6. 1 point
    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-bed-leveling-guide
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    I always put my filament on the floor so it doesn't matter to me. Also some spools have the center hole too small for the spool holder on the UM2. So just put it on the floor. I'd be more concerned about the filament diameter. Colorfabb 3mm filament is actually closer to 2.9 or 2.85. But this brand you bought I've never heard of and it says it's "3.00mm +/- .05mm". I wouldn't buy that. If it hits 3.05mm and gets squished out of round a bit by the feeder it can easily get stuck in the bowden. The symptom will be massive underextrusion but you won't know what's causing it. It may be fine for 10 meters and then stuck in the bowden for the next meter. One way to do it on the floor:
  9. 1 point
    yeah, the sound of a printer is better than any other lullaby!
  10. 1 point
    Congrats Skint to you and your wife! Just remember you can use the sleepless nights to keep your printer running! SK
  11. 1 point
    Yes, and what a drain on resources for UM, and what a drain on moral for everyone. The light this whole debacle shines on their decision making process is unsettling to say the least. But we've be over this many many times.
  12. 1 point
    Shes adorable, congrats mate! I have two of my own, aged 3 and 1, and have on several occasions used my printer to print various things related to them (its a great tool for fixing cheap plastic toys), so on top of all the happiness (and concerns), see her as another excuse to put your printer to good use
  13. 1 point
    Oh, boy. This forum is certainly not good for finding information, or just browsing. I have better luck using Google searching for Ultimaker information. And that is coming from someone who is yet to post/subscribe much since I just got my printer. So I have mainly been looking around for information and following the forum for ~2 months so far.
  14. 1 point
    @skint congrats enjoy the happy moments (there will be a lot) and also congrats to your wife
  15. 1 point
    @skint, congrats! All the best. As we are in the "mine are..." mood, mine are 6 and 5
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Here is your excuse to design some smart toys for her Congrats!
  18. 1 point
    Nothing but acetone for me now (no surprises there, lol). I dont even bother sanding anymore. Zero effort, but near perfect results. I would tend to sand flat stuff though with 400 grit sand paper.
  19. 1 point
    I've seen a few threads and with the search not working well, I thought it best to ask. Going from a UMO with no heated bed to one with a heated bed has been quite interesting. A lot of things you Ultimaker 2 owners take for granted is brand new to me!
  20. 1 point
    Il y a une semaine, j'ai reçu un devis pour la production d'une série de pièces. Jusque là rien de bien exceptionnel vous allez me dire, mais avec cette demande et les plans, j'ai aussi reçu un modèle type imprimé par une Stratasys. Après 20 minutes de réflexion/Slice, j'ai sortie mon proto.... Je ne peux malheureusement pas vous poster une photo de comparaison pour des raisons de confidentialité , mais une chose est sur : Stratasys va tuer Makerbot et nous allons tuer Stratasys
  21. 1 point
    You should have left the direct sales option. Once again, this is a bad decision. Probably just because you did not want to support your customers directly, a pity, for such a great brand.
  22. 1 point
    ah, super! congrats, nature is way better at making things then Ultimaker will ever be :)have fun with the sleepless nights.... she'll be growing up in the blink of an eye (mine are 15 already...)
  23. 1 point
    Hi Skint Congratulations, now the fun part starts....
  24. 1 point
    Issue found, in Safari it somehow strips the #unread marker out of the URL. Will have that fixed as soon as possible.
  25. 1 point
    I've built my own frame using alu extrusions from Misumi, and wanted to share an experience: You can have Misumi add some options to the profiles that makes joining them accurately and very strong (!) super easy. Of course you pay considerably more for the extrusions (just about double), but the result is well worth it in my opinion. A combination of "Tapped Holes on End Faces" (LTP or RTP for one end, TPW for both ends) and "Wrench Hole Machining" (lots of different options available) will allow you to bolt the extrusions together using nothing but an M5 screw (2020, or M8 for 3030 extrusions). The screw's head goes into the slot of an extrusion, and screws into the other one's end face. The wrench hole is needed for the wrench to go through the extrusion and tighten the screw. This gives awesomely rigid 90° joints without any brackets! You just need to be careful to align the extrusions well when tightening them. I've used 3030 extrusions which go with M8 screws and 24mm long threads. I tightened these screws ridiculously and I'm confident these joints will last forever. But even with the smaller 2020 and M5 screws you should still get very strong joints. /note: You can make all these modifications yourself if you don't wanna pay Misumi to do it for you. The "Tapped Holes on End Faces" use the already existing center hole - just need to tap the holes. The wrench holes don't need to be perfectly centered - you just need to get the wrench through there. Alignment is still possible even when these holes are about 1mm off. /edit: I strongly suggest using hex or torx (star) screws. You wanna be able to tighten them down really hard...
  26. 1 point
    Nicely pimped out UMO @alex_3d
  27. 1 point
    Ich hab Mal an einem Metall-Feeder gearbeitet, codename "Warthog": Der funktioniert im Grunde sehr ähnlich wie der UMO feeder. Im Detail habe ich allerdings viel verbessert. Das Übersetzungsverhältnis der Zahnräder ist, wenn ich mich nicht irre, anders (kleine Änderung in der Firmware, wirst du sowieso machen müssen, wenn du einen anderen Feeder verwendest). Und ich verwende ein MK8 Transportrad + Kugellager, sowie eine präziser steuerbare Anpressfeder. Der Quick-Release für den Filamentwechsel ist derselbe wie beim UMO (es gibt keinen besseren Mechanismus...), allerdings geht das Einführen des Filaments bei mir besser, weil die Zuführung verbessert wurde. Dann wäre da noch das markante Schrägkugellager, welches als Aufhängung dient. Durch diese bewegliche Aufhängung verbessert sich die Führung des Bowden-Schlauchs; durch das Kippen des Feeders verringern sich die Biegeradien beim Drucken. Bisher habe ich ihn übrigens nicht verwendet - mein UMO läuft und läuft, und ich will einfach nicht Hand an eine einwandfrei funktionierende Maschine legen. Stattdessen baue ich seit langer Zeit an meinem eigenen Drucker (sitze gerade am dritten Prototypen), in welchen all die schönen Sachen dann eingebaut werden sollen. Wenn du Lust hast, den Warthog zu testen, kann ich dir einen zuschicken. Ich habe noch ein paar Stahlteile rumliegen... /edit: Auf den Bildern ist übrigens nicht der fertige Extruder zu sehen. Da fehlt z.B. noch die Getriebe-Abdeckung und das manuelle Antriebsrad..
  28. 1 point
    Made a few mods and pimped out my original Ultimaker a bit I really wanted to install Robert's cable chain, so I had to make a mod for it. Also, I made some reduced ratio herringbone feeder gears for use with SilentStepStick stepper drivers. If anybody needs some of them I uploaded them on YouMagine page
  29. 1 point
    Hi, 25 micron is very very small for any FDM printer out there. But I'd say that if one printer is able to achieve that resolution reliably then it would be the Ultimaker 2+. Since you can change nozzle sizes, you would be able to pick a small nozzle and print with it. You just need to be realistic about resolution. Any technology has its limits. If you can share the figurine, I am sure some users here would love to try their hand at printing it. Then you can decide for yourself. And one more thing, the people on 3DHubs.com are not vendors. Most are just private users that happen to have a 3D printer so quality and experience does vary greatly.
  30. 1 point
    The same here... it always ends up between and My solution: use the Poor man's openscad screw library or the OpenSCAD threads library - generate the needed threads with OpenScad, export in stl-format, import and use it in FreeCad... Good enough for me.
  31. 1 point
    Did you level it with the bed heated or cold? Heat may cause the bed to change very slightly. It's a bigger issue with other printers. I'd also tighten all three adjustment screws a few turns, move your Z stop down a little and level it again. If the adjustment screws are way too tight, the springs might putting too much tension on the assembly, and I'd loosen them and move the z stop up a little.
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