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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/03/2016 in all areas

  1. 3DKitbash Boon dinosaur printed in 3DOM buzzed filament He got busy evolving himself and he created.....Boon-Dominus Rex! Printed in Faberdashery Architect's Stone Got to love framily Birthday gifts for my youngest son,
    5 points
  2. What have you made: 175 topics Tips & Tricks: 506 topics Troubleshooting & Maintenance: 3466 topics Anyway: Love my UMO and enjoyed the read.
    2 points
  3. Non c'est tout à fait normal. Comme je l'expliquais dans un autre post: quand tu demande un autohome et que un des switchs est déjà fermé alors la tête incrémente sur x et y pour s'éloigner de la position home puis décrémente sur x et y jusqu’à ce que les switch soient à nouveaux fermé. Ici comme le switch de Y renvoi toujours l'information qu'il est fermé la tête s'éloigne en Y mais ne revient pas. et du coup ça fait le décalage à chaque autohome. C'est un bug qui pourrait être corrigé dans le firmware. l'imprimante devrait voir qu'en éloignant la tête des switch il y'en as un qui reste collé. ce qui pourrait signifier que soit il n'ay as pas d'entrainement mécanique soit le switch est bloqué.
    2 points
  4. also, the original head had a 25W heater to allow a secondary heater to be added. as we all know dual extrusion never happened so that additional power was never needed. an additional advantage that has not been mentioned enough is that a larger heater will get you better quality. to keep a nozzle at a certain temperature, let's say 250 degrees, you don't just set a dial on a heater. basically, the nozzle is on or off so the PT100 measures the temperature, and you see the temperature fluctuating. there is a complex algorithm that decides when to turn on the heater and for how long. you can use in certain situation things like alternation to fire up the heater in small increments but unsure if Ultimaker uses it. anyhow, if you have a small heater, you need to take larger dips into account. in reality, setting the temperature to 250 will realistically lead to temperatures between 248 and 252. you;'ll undershoot and overshoot the temperature target. the more plastic you feed it the harde the heater has to work to get it to that temperature and the higher your temperature differences will be. with a larger heater and a 35 watt heater is about 37 percent more powerfull, you have to apply heat for shorted periods to get to your target temperature, getting a more consistent temperature in your nozzle, leading to a nicer print. some filaments are highly impacted by temperature flucttuations. fluctuations that will be a lot less with a bigger heater. so in short, a bigger heater is better for your print quality and your printer. but do you need it? no. do you want it? yes
    2 points
  5. I made this to be able to spool the loose filament faster, I know many people like the filament loose, but I don't. Video: There are two mounts, one for faberdashery spools (4 symmetric holes on the mid-center plastic) and Colorfabb (3 asymmetric holes). Also works with Smartmaterials pla plastic and probably much others. I made this for the 100m packs of Faberdashery 1.75mm filament, using the Spool holder by creativetools as base. Youmagine link
    1 point
  6. Ahh that ones on umo+ can be 1mm shorter for sure. Sorry I been having the busiest day ever, fast reading everything
    1 point
  7. @neotko. You got me all inspired, just used stuff I had already laying around....
    1 point
  8. ... I did it anyway tonight, ripped the old umo blocks appart (without actually destroing them), took out the bushing and replaced them... my printhead moves like jagger (again). So all good.
    1 point
  9. what about some nozzles with similar size to 1mm but with wire-cut crazy shapes like piping tips At larger layer heights it could give some interesting effects. This sounds like a fun project. What we need is some nozzle blanks ( solid right to the top of the thread ) that we can experiment with. Ones that work best for flexi materials is definitely at the top of the list seeing there are some different hard ones available.
    1 point
  10. Awesome! thanks for the resources. I just used the firmware you made and it let me use the second extruder bay, but the motor still didn't work. So I'm calling it a bad motor. The parts are still under warranty to Fabrc8 is already sending me a replacement. When I get it and install it I'll give you all an update. Cheers again and thanks to everyone who helped!
    1 point
  11. We have seen them. But I can imagine, the creative and expert group of people we are, we could even think of other nozzles / applications as well. If not.. makes our job a whole lot easier
    1 point
  12. Wow..... What a rookie error!!! Thank you it is all sorted
    1 point
  13. Ahh, like it, will also start spooling my loose plastic... I noticed last week that the coil size of the faberdashery loose material is now a lot smaller than it was something like 1 year before..... annoying even if you have an adjustable spool holder like the one based on woofy's I use.
    1 point
  14. Guys, stop being silly! The wobble is worse front to back but the head wobbles both ways! I tried turning the bearings around 45 degrees but that made no difference. I believe I will be getting some replacement bearings sent to me. I will let you kind fellows know. Thanks your your help Bob
    1 point
  15. Misumi https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17068-making-your-own-ultimaker-what-not-to-buy-on-china-stores-personal-experience#reply-125649
    1 point
  16. As many other UMO owners I was looking for a clever way to fix the 8mm x/y rods without getting a lot of abrasion resulting in black greasy dust at the endcaps and no play of the rods. The solution was actually presented in 2013 by Ultimaker on the UM2. The pulleys fix the rods with spacers from the inside. In order to make this working the bearings have to be kept in place by the side panel. The panels on the UM2 have an opening just large enough to let the rod pass at assembling. The UMO frame is different. There is just one big hole for the bearing and nothing that would keep the bearing in place - except the end caps. Sometimes the distance between the two end caps of one rod is larger than the rod itself. The result is significant play which ruins print quality. Quite a number of modified end caps deal with the problem by using e.g. screws to fix the rod from the outside. But even with special screws which have a ball at their tip one always gets abrasion. What do you need? 1. A little bit of time 2. Printed spacers 3. 'End caps' with an opening for the rods How do you do it? 1. Measure the distance between the outermost pulleys and the inner wall of adjacent wodden panel. This gives you eight numbers. 2. Add 0.7-0.8mm to each of them. This is the difference in thickness of the bearing and the wodden panels. 3. Scale the length of the spacer to these eight modified lengths and print them. 4. Print eight exemplaries of the open end caps (you may try to use the wodden end caps with hole you mounted on the inside of the wodden pannels, then you just need another two; if you have a direct drive which keeps two of the eight bearings in place from the outside, you don't even need any of the open end caps). 5. Remove the print head and all rods but leave the bearings in their holes. 6. Clean the rods (if your rods rather ressemble bananas, this might be a good time to replace them ) 7. Dismount any endcaps which may be still mounted to the wodden frame. 8. Mount the open end caps on the outside of the wodden panels. Do not mount any open end cap on the inside! 9. Re-assemble the rods: a) Slide a rod in from one side b) Slide the first spacer over the rod on the inside of the bearing (make sure you take one with correct length for this position) c) Slide a pulley over the rod; don't forget the timing belt! It should look now like this: d) Slide the corresponding x/y block over the rod. e) Complete the 'sandwich' with the pulley on the opposite side and the corresponding spacer. f) Push the rod into the bearing on the opposite side. 10. Fix the rods by fixing the pulleys and re-mount the print head. And then, enjoy friction-less and accurate printing...
    1 point
  17. Printed, installed, works perfect (with ataraxis's dimensions, first try). Great, thank you!
    1 point
  18. @amedee, the measurements are spot on, I installed everything inc. chopmeisters blocks, new short and long GT2 belts, pulleys and spacers + caps (plush new bushings). Great and thanks again! All fits perfectly, BUT the new bushings I got from robottdigg... 2 are good, the other 2 not so much (shame I have not tested this before... ) so I am to replace all robottdig bushings with my old UM bushings (wanted to avoid that to keep the wooden blocks intact). Grr.... I mean it prints perfectly, but I can hardly move the head by hand... so I guess the motors have a bit more work at the moment.
    1 point
  19. agree - I have not run a levelling script for over 2 years - even when I take the printer home in the car - I watch the first layer going down, make micro adjustments and off we go - it is rare that I don't have time to fix the first layer and have to scrap the print. Do i want the software to skew the print for me ..... no thanks.
    1 point
  20. It is only bits and bytes - be as verbose as you want!
    1 point
  21. I changed on pins.h #define E0_STEP_PIN 49 #define E0_DIR_PIN 47 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 48 #define E1_STEP_PIN 42 #define E1_DIR_PIN 43 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 37 Here it is. I think it's all set for umo+ board 1 extruder (switched) https://www.dropbox.com/s/ys1j2i7l8lgffrj/Marlin.cpp.hex?dl=0
    1 point
  22. Wow that looks dead to me How old it's your umo+? Can you make a close up photo of the driver chip? Also check the back side of the driver chip. Maybe it's burn... I'll get some time later today to make you a firmware so you can use extruder 1 on extruder 2 to test if it's the chip or the motor itself.
    1 point
  23. my best guess is the stepper driver, either too much or too less current, as gr5 also suggests. As you have an UMO+ I think you have a "white" control board, right? So there are no trim pots for the current per motor. You must check it in the firmware (but you resetted, right?). Anyway, check under Maintanenace, Advanced, Motion, Current E or something like that. Should be around 1250 / 1300 (mA) try to lower it or increase it (to max 1500 mA) if this is even possible. (I don't have an UMO+, so no white electronics board, maybe someone can correct me if wrong?) Also I think you can set it with M907 for all axes (so for instance M907 E1200 should be 1200 mA on E (Extruder). Hope that's right. If you can, swap motors and check again (so you have eliminated either the board, motor). Hoep that helps...
    1 point
  24. Content de voir mes écrits vous font avancer Alors c'est parti pour le questions-réponses ! Ce n'est pas le post que j'avais prévu dont le sujet est " l'interdiffusion "( toujours en cours de rédaction...) mais j'ai profité de la question de @duriel pour préparer le terrain. J’espère avoir le temps de terminer ça bientôt. Oui si tu ne possède pas de chambre chaude régulée, le rayonnement thermique de la hotend et celui du plateau chauffant ainsi que la ventilation sont autant de parasites favorisant un changement de paramètres. Parasites qui peuvent être aussi des alliés ! et c'est là que ça se complique Si tu veux être rigoureux il te faudra au minimum deux process sur une même impression, un à la proximité du plateau et l'autre pour le reste de l'impression. Je t'ai surtout donné matière à te triturer encore un peu plus le cerveau ! Si tu as trouvé ton bonheur c'est le principal Hehe patience nous parlerons de l'ABS la prochaine fois qui lui au contraire de son compagnons le PLA est un polymère amorphe à haut TG et ça change beaucoup de choses. Afin de bien clarifier la situation, conserver l'impression en chambre chaude permet de compenser un manque de puissance au niveau du refroidissement de nos ventilateurs mais pas que, car cela favorise l'interdiffusion. Un peu perdu non ? Il faut pour l'instant garder en tête qu'une couche, une fois déposée commence sa course effréné vers son refroidissement et passe par toutes les phases citées plus haut, si tu gères correctement ce refroidissement avec les outils dont tu disposes alors tu deviens maitre de ton impression. C'est plus à toi de me donner des cours du soir en électro ! Tu ne crois pas si bien dire...c'est une logique implacable A partir d'un moment si tu veux passer à l'étape suivante il te faut les bons outils, alors deux options, soit je divorce pour avoir le temps d'upgrader mon UM2, soit je me tourne vers d'autres fabricants...sachant que j'aime ma femme, le choix est fait !
    1 point
  25. The response was loss due to error on my part, I did not check the "I am not a robot" box before posting the reply. I don't quite recall which button, I think it was preview not post but it could have been either. Something to check out. I'm on a Mac running Chrome. The printer will be for both work and of course play! Lots of play! For work I will print lids for Mason Jars that hold electrodes and have vents and a logo on them, plus various parts for boxes to hold electronics and of course Earth Drops. Here is the Earth Drop, a symbol of water and humanity on Earth: Earth Drop With an Extended UM2 I can print a huge Earth Drop! For play I print Christmas ornaments, motor and gear parts, e-NABLE hands (naturally), e-NABLE wearables and circuit holders / battery holders, and generally semi - inventive stuff. Like my Thrombic Aorta: Thrombic Aorta and on and on, I run my printer all the time. Lately I've been catching up with the world in the realization that just printing stuff has its limitations, so incorporating motors and electronics and LEDs and such goes a long way. I've done somethings like that as well and plan to do more. Thanks for reading all the gibberish that I write, I tend to be verbose. Les Make history!
    1 point
  26. Did some printing this weekend. The printer didn't see any action for quite some time. Haven't had much time with the new house and so on. Printer was constantly under-extruding. Cleaning, vacuuming, greasing, nothing helped. After about 3 restarts of half an hour each I finally realised that I forgot to put my 0.4 nozzle back... It was printing with 0.8 *facepalm*
    1 point
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