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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/11/2016 in all areas

  1. Hey guys, thanks to the talented 3dlabprint.com team I was able to print my first rc plane on my UM2... It flies absolutely brilliantly! Challenging but fun print!
    3 points
  2. I'm loving it! the quality is much better and i get my print quicker!! more internal stringing but better overhangs and overall quality for some reason, i may try 0.5 instead of 0.6 as i see some non important anomalies. i had a feeing it was just extruder speed related rather than diameter related as all the surfaces are perfectly smooth. Seeing as the um2+ had heavier objects compared to the um2, is it overextruding compared to the um2? So basically if you see this, you are over-extruding, definitely better than under-extruding!!! I'm now very happy with my upgrade! EDIT: the flat surface lines under closer inspection indeed do not connect as ultijan said, but walls connect, so for organic stuf, this is a fantastic time saver, but for flat horizntal stuff no good if you want it perfect. Is there a way of increasing the flow in cura to increase it a touch as i dont like using that setting on the pinter? i only adjust temps live, flow and speed i stay away from ad they make weird noises when you change them.
    3 points
  3. Hey Guys, I posted my mini nuke a little while ago. Now my design guest blog is up on Ultimaker that goes into a lot more depth on design process. And the non-cross sectioned version of the model is now up on youmagine too! Teasers: check it out here. Let me know if stuff like this is helpful to you all!
    2 points
  4. Mauvaise manip et hop, plus de photos de ma dernière impression dans la machine :( Un support de Iphone ( combiné pour 5 et 6) pour ma vieille SMART . Photos prise in situ. M-ABS noir, 245°, 60 mm/s, couche 0.3, 7h d'impression.
    2 points
  5. So I finally got around to testing all the different nozzles. There is a massive difference between the different types except the Olsson special and brass is pretty much the same.
    2 points
  6. I'm receiving above pictured error. It's random. Sometimes I'm able to print an object. At other times this error crops up. Any tips on how to troubleshoot ?
    1 point
  7. Lol, pas pour moi! Si je regarde l'onglet "expert" je vois seulement "switch to quick print" "switch to full settings" "open expert settings" "run bed levelling wizard" "run head offset wizard"; il n'y a pas mode Complet . ?*?* Eh bien, pour tu je suppose que c'est OK. Je voulais simplement vérifier que tu utilisais la bonne "vitesse d'impression"
    1 point
  8. @cloakfiend, I will have a try In order to unplug the heater from the electronics board, you need access to the top side of the electronics. To achieve this... 1.) Remove the left motor cover. It is mounted with 2 screws, one through the back, one through the left side. 2.) Lay the UM2 on it's left side for easy access. Move the heated bed up to access the screws in the bottom. 3.) Remove the electronics cover cage, which is secured by 2 screws. ( You might already have done this for the PT100). Grab the nuts on the other side to prevent slipping. 4.) Open the 4 screws holding the electronics. They are the ones sitting in elongated holes. Be careful not to lose the small black spacers, maybe grab them with pliers while opening the screws. The electronics board is now loose but some parts like switch and power connector still stick through the backplate. 5.) Carefully pull the electronics board out of the backplate and swing it onto the table. You see a green terminal block where the extruder heater and the bed heating are connected. There seem to be different versions of the terminal block. According to the assembly manual and the schematics on github the heater wires are fastened with screws. open the screws und pull the wires. My UM2 from Oct. 2015 instead has a spring loaded terminal block. Use a flat screwdriver to push the first orange clip and while holding it down, pull the first wire. Repeat for the second wire. 6.) Make sure, that the strands of your new heaters wires are neatly in parallel or in other words, make sure there are no single strands sticking away. 7.) Press the first orange clip again and while holding it down, insert the first wire into the terminal and repeat for the second wire. If your terminal has screws, just insert the wire and fasten the screw. The 2 wires are interchangeable so it doesn't matter which wire goes in first and second place. Make sure, that all the strands go into the terminal insert. 8.- x.) remount the electronics and covers in reverse order. (I don't fell like describing it all the way back ).
    1 point
  9. How about a custom support modelling contest? Where you get a really difficult to print model and have to design, mesh mixer, or tweak cura settings in order to obtain the best results. Support is something that I see every printer still struggling with (and Cura too) A lot of the times I still end up creating my own supports to ensure a good clean break/print. And it would be quite informative to see what other people are doing to combat difficult prints. Winner goes to the one that can produce the cleanest print with the least amount of support material. And you can include everyone into the mix, people who model, who use mesh mixer, or even just cura. an example:
    1 point
  10. Just some added info to compare nozzle temp differences. Yes my heater block PT100 is not accurate but the test still shows the thermal differences between the different nozzle types.
    1 point
  11. Hé bien, voila. J'ai imprimé mes clips. Même si j'espérais des pièces plus solide, elles devraient faire l'affaire
    1 point
  12. I had a simlar problem which I concluded was caused by the filament 'remembering' it had been tightly wound on the reel - so only a problem for the last quarter of the reel, I proved this to myself by winding the fiament onto a larger diameter container and heating it in water near to boiling point. The fialment 'remembered' a larger diameter size and printed fine afterwards. I have just last weekend installed the BondTech QR feeder system and its just amazing I can now print at much faster speeds with any nozzle size I like. The print quality is incredible, I have got upto 100mm/s speeds, it also works very well with flexible filament
    1 point
  13. Hi, Nicolinux, many thanks for your prompt reply. I have enough answers to keep me busy for a while !. Thanks again,
    1 point
  14. I have a few ideas, but they might require a little thinkering. -Hm, those new couplers are UM2 only right? Otherwise you could make like a little bundle with Olsson nozzles(they fit in UMO right?) and a coupler. -Let people create their own spare part package, like pick 2/3 out of: nozzles, bowden, glass,sensor. -Also, lately I've seen a lot of people wanting to go dual fan on UMO(+). Perhaps a fan package with mount/design to print. Can be either another stock fan with the right cables to plug in two + mount. Or if you want to go fancy use those UM2 fans(not sure about voltage/power), with a new fan shroud? -I've seen people also interested in the silent chop drop in replacements for more silent printing. Especially the last two are fueled from my own wishes But I'm serious about the idea. If I'm interested, more people are, perhaps with a little market research, some R&D, you can create some fancy upgrade love me, feed me, never leave me packages for UMOs? Just like the extruder upgrade for UM2. New from Ultimaker: -Print extra details with the improved dual fan kit! Available Q2 2016 for just €XX -Want to work next to your printer? Make it super stealthy and release the printing ninja in you, stepper driver upgrade for €XX, coming Q2 2016
    1 point
  15. Thanks! Its a challenge to print and I printed the parts many times till I got proper results that I could use for the model. The Plane is actually normal PLA (Innofill transparent) und is strong enough althoug its only one perimeter (~0,48mm). The plane has five flights now and it flew perfectly well right form the start. With the current setup it does about 140km/h and has flight times of 8-12minutes, depending on throttle management. Heat was not an issue (yet) as the outside temp was only about 3°C. The motor and prop were balanced very well so no vibrations on the cell. Plane has five flights on the clock now with 38 Minutes flying time in total. No sign of cracks or other stress marks so fingers crossed. Currently printing a silver one with slightly changes settings. After that I want to do one in XT and do some high speed tests. 8)
    1 point
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