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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. No. Autoleveling is overrated (it doesn't work well in other products). Once you level it will stay level for months. However I still tweak mine a bit - sometimes you want something to stick extra well and I adjust it (simply turn the 3 screws the same amount a 1/4 turn) such that the bottom layer is squished a little more - this way the part will stick very well. Other times I'm printing something small that doesn't need to stick well but where the bottom layer is critical dimensionally. And I don't want to have to file the tiny tiny bottom layer lip off the bottom edge. So I turn the s
    2 points
  3. Ok, just like many others here i also ran into the problem with the heated bed. Here is THE way to fix this problem, it works ! The problem is on the board itself and is caused by the thin ( to thin ) lines that go to the contacts for the temp sensor. I took out my heated bed to inspect the soldering, looked fine but still the bed caused problems, the temp goes crazy, runs up to 150 degrees + and than you get the error. this is how to solve it permanently.. remove the screws on the block where the 4 wires are attached. You need a soldering iron on 385 degrees max. remove the block and c
    1 point
  4. It has begun! We've made some improvements to the search engine, and we continue to do so in the upcoming period. There are already some noticeable improvements where if you, for example, look for 'Tool changer' you find @Foehnsturm's topic on the 4th place. The other hits have a link to the thread so they are relevant as well. If you have a clogged nozzle, your first hit is 'how to disassemble a clogged UM2 nozzle' and some other related hits. But of course, we're not there yet. I would like to ask you to start use our search feature more in your workflow (I know a lot of people use
    1 point
  5. If you search 'Olsson Block' you still don't get the original post from Anders Olsson on the first result page. If you search with Google including 'site:ultimaker.com' it's the top result.
    1 point
  6. It's a good start. Thanks!
    1 point
  7. Hi to you all I'm a new happy UM2 owner since 1 month & a half. First ! many thanks to all the members in this forum, I learn here a lot before & after buying the machine. In second ! today I just want to share some experiments I done in improving the feeder system. The feeder can roll in about 30/35° angle when working, following the bowden tube curved motion, mainly in the Y translation. The spool is hooked on the left side with some freedom of movement. The UM2 works very well, I'm closed to finishing my first PLA filament spool coming with the printer, now I'll start to ex
    1 point
  8. Hi SandervG Yes ! pictures was took by phone. I still use the original feeder and its motor, had not yet encountered any particular difficulties I just concentrate for now on the routing of the filament in the Bowden tube. I found that the filament is still rigid enough so that the tube and all demand significant efforts in all motors and more particularly to the feeder one. Making the feeder pivoting requires less displacement XY force of the print head greatly and improves the sliding of the filament, being already naturally curved in the curvature of the Bowden tube, with the mark
    1 point
  9. @DidierKlein That's more or less what I'm trying to do.
    1 point
  10. I posted details in the original post. In the essence - carefully check head assembly - check nozzle, stainless steel/Teflon couplers and bowden tube (e.g. does it fit tightly Teflon coupler). There might be too much spacing in the assembly or parts may be misaligned. All of that create unnecessary friction.
    1 point
  11. Or change it on the Preferences of S3D
    1 point
  12. Maybe the way to go is something like embed a line of flexible material and cover it partially with pla with some gaps to connect with the outer part of flexible... i don't know if i'm clear so lets do a quick ugly drawing (yes i have paint skills!) The red represents flex and the black pla
    1 point
  13. The next one, an example for a simple watertight housing, was surprisingly easy. The sealing is just printed into the groove and the small membrane features tiny holes to interlock with the rigid part.
    1 point
  14. Sí, con eso se solucionó perfectamente. Muchas gracias
    1 point
  15. Autoleveling is a non feature
    1 point
  16. Just attach the bow to the top of the print head as its printing.
    1 point
  17. Do they also provide .the stl files for musical skill and talent?
    1 point
  18. bonjour, petite précision suite a vos commentaire, ayant travaillé dans une miroiterie, le verre en question est de ce qu'on appel du verre trempé, donc verre blanc recuit avec tout un processus de refroidissement pour qu'il en devienne un produit plus résistant au choc et qu'au rayure, donc suite a se traitement il est impossible de le retailler ou de le coupé, sans risque de le voir éclater ( comme une plat en pyrex ) et bien-sur au risque de s'en prendre plein le visage. info page 3: http://www.glasstime.com/download/fr/Guardian_GlassTime_FR_Chapter-07.pdf
    1 point
  19. I like using the .6 or large nozzles for Wood Filaments it gives me nice results and i'm not afraid of clogging the nozzles anymore Obviously it's also interesting for printing faster, if you want to do some rapid prototyping with no care for surface quality you can go for the 1mm nozzle and print fat layers (.5mm). It also reduces the time if you do .8 walls and it also has an impact on infill (a 20% infill with a 0.8mm nozzle will take less time than with a .4mm nozzle and be much stronger)
    1 point
  20. .6mm is twice as fast and .8mm is 4x as fast. I did most of my quadcopter parts with .8mm. If you want functional things the .8mm is great. If you want something that is a masterpiece then go with .4mm. With the .8mm I usually do 0.8mm shell - that's just one pass! And creates very strong parts. It's also useful for making a vase or a cup or something out of transparent PLA. Transparent PLA looks best with very thick layers and just one pass. 0.8mm or 1.0mm nozzles are great for that and do thick layers like .6mm thick.
    1 point
  21. Thanks Post processing on the barrel was just the muzzle end which was on the build plate. I am lazy when possible. On the carriage and wheels a little razor knife work and 100 grit sand paper not a lot. The key to this is print both the carriage and wheels in black and then go back and paint the wood on, around the bolts heads etc. I used Testors # 1140 brown, If you do just one coat and the black print shows thru some and gives it a wood look. I will ad to prints.
    1 point
  22. Hi Marin, ich habe die letzten Tage deine Wakü bekommen und am Wochenende eingebaut. Hat in Meinen Augen eine sehr hochwertige und genaue Verarbeitungsqualität so weit ich das beurteilen kann als Modellbaumechaniker. Eine kleine Tüte mit diversen Kleinteilen ist auch mit dabei. Zum Hintergrund zu meinem Ultimaker 2 der nicht ganz konventionell auf dual umgebaut ist. Ich betreibe die linke Düse mit 2,85mm Filament und dem Bondtech Extruder und die rechte bis her mit 1,75mm Filament einem Bulldog XL als Extruder und einem PTFE ID 2mm. Beide mit Olssen Block und 0,4 Düse. Wenn mein 1,75er
    1 point
  23. I will try them all in a drip test and vapor polish test to compare. Will post results later.
    1 point
  24. Interesting.....no reply from our Romanian friend anymore.
    1 point
  25. Looks great. Like the logo... looks professional indead. .. I always wondered why not more people use the um2 head on an original... I guess the new Um2 upgrade kit may change this...
    1 point
  26. Ok, just like many others here i also ran into the problem with the heated bed. Here is THE way to fix this problem, it works ! The problem is on the board itself and is caused by the thin ( to thin ) lines that go to the contacts for the temp sensor. I took out my heated bed to inspect the soldering, looked fine but still the bed caused problems, the temp goes crazy, runs up to 150 degrees + and than you get the error. this is how to solve it permanently.. remove the screws on the block where the 4 wires are attached. You need a soldering iron on 385 degrees max. remove the block and c
    1 point
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