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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 2 points
    No. Autoleveling is overrated (it doesn't work well in other products). Once you level it will stay level for months. However I still tweak mine a bit - sometimes you want something to stick extra well and I adjust it (simply turn the 3 screws the same amount a 1/4 turn) such that the bottom layer is squished a little more - this way the part will stick very well. Other times I'm printing something small that doesn't need to stick well but where the bottom layer is critical dimensionally. And I don't want to have to file the tiny tiny bottom layer lip off the bottom edge. So I turn the screws the other way. Autoleveling takes this control away from you - moves you farther from controlling the printer and gives you fewer options.
  3. 1 point
    Ok, just like many others here i also ran into the problem with the heated bed. Here is THE way to fix this problem, it works ! The problem is on the board itself and is caused by the thin ( to thin ) lines that go to the contacts for the temp sensor. I took out my heated bed to inspect the soldering, looked fine but still the bed caused problems, the temp goes crazy, runs up to 150 degrees + and than you get the error. this is how to solve it permanently.. remove the screws on the block where the 4 wires are attached. You need a soldering iron on 385 degrees max. remove the block and clean the contacts on the board and the contacts on the block. Than put new soldering on the contacts on the left ( the ones that heat up the bed ) solder the block back but only the 2 contacts on the left. Now take 2 thin electrical wired and solder them on them on the block on the right ( for the temp sensor ) In the picture you see the brown wire goes to the sensor on top, the red one goes to the sensor below. solder the 2 wires there and it works like a charm again. Here below is a picture of the solution, i think that everybody who has worked on the heated bed can recognize this and sees how the solution works. I found out that the lines on the board for the temp sensor are very very tiny, you can not resolder them, to little. but with these 2 bypasses, it works perfectly again Good luck Marco [media=11773] [/media]
  4. 1 point
    It has begun! We've made some improvements to the search engine, and we continue to do so in the upcoming period. There are already some noticeable improvements where if you, for example, look for 'Tool changer' you find @Foehnsturm's topic on the 4th place. The other hits have a link to the thread so they are relevant as well. If you have a clogged nozzle, your first hit is 'how to disassemble a clogged UM2 nozzle' and some other related hits. But of course, we're not there yet. I would like to ask you to start use our search feature more in your workflow (I know a lot of people use google (I'm guilty too!)). And when you do, and you don't find what you need could you post here what keywords you used and what you were expecting to find? It will help us to improve even more. I'll do the same, as our dev will monitor this thread and soak up all the feedback! And when you use the search, and you do find what you were looking for let us know as well It will tell us what areas do work well and that could also help fixing other things. Thank you! ---- Edit. Added criteria: - Only show relevant topics. Or 'no results'. - Look into vbulletin for advanced search options. - Rank on amount of views / popularity. - When there is a hit on page 5, go to page 5 instead of page 1.
  5. 1 point
    If you search 'Olsson Block' you still don't get the original post from Anders Olsson on the first result page. If you search with Google including 'site:ultimaker.com' it's the top result.
  6. 1 point
    It's a good start. Thanks!
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Hi to you all I'm a new happy UM2 owner since 1 month & a half. First ! many thanks to all the members in this forum, I learn here a lot before & after buying the machine. In second ! today I just want to share some experiments I done in improving the feeder system. The feeder can roll in about 30/35° angle when working, following the bowden tube curved motion, mainly in the Y translation. The spool is hooked on the left side with some freedom of movement. The UM2 works very well, I'm closed to finishing my first PLA filament spool coming with the printer, now I'll start to experiment another materials as Ninja Flex, ABS, PET.... Here some picks, better than thousand words Print head in different situations Happy again to open here my first topic, sorry for my bad English Regards PS. can't get image in right position ?
  9. 1 point
    Hi SandervG Yes ! pictures was took by phone. I still use the original feeder and its motor, had not yet encountered any particular difficulties I just concentrate for now on the routing of the filament in the Bowden tube. I found that the filament is still rigid enough so that the tube and all demand significant efforts in all motors and more particularly to the feeder one. Making the feeder pivoting requires less displacement XY force of the print head greatly and improves the sliding of the filament, being already naturally curved in the curvature of the Bowden tube, with the marking made by the knurled wheel being at the inside of the bend. I found that the printer is considerably less noisy, the X and Y movements are softer and very sharp. All the engines are less hot than before. Noting that there is great radial pressure working on the knurled wheel, I also added a bearing hub to the original feeder body it supports the end of the motor shaft thus eliminating the overhang of the drive shaft that will suffer less while benefiting from more torque to push the filament. For now I have only printed the PLA, it will certainly be a different story for other types of materials !!!.....
  10. 1 point
    @DidierKlein That's more or less what I'm trying to do.
  11. 1 point
    I posted details in the original post. In the essence - carefully check head assembly - check nozzle, stainless steel/Teflon couplers and bowden tube (e.g. does it fit tightly Teflon coupler). There might be too much spacing in the assembly or parts may be misaligned. All of that create unnecessary friction.
  12. 1 point
    Or change it on the Preferences of S3D
  13. 1 point
    Maybe the way to go is something like embed a line of flexible material and cover it partially with pla with some gaps to connect with the outer part of flexible... i don't know if i'm clear so lets do a quick ugly drawing (yes i have paint skills!) The red represents flex and the black pla
  14. 1 point
    The next one, an example for a simple watertight housing, was surprisingly easy. The sealing is just printed into the groove and the small membrane features tiny holes to interlock with the rigid part.
  15. 1 point
    Sí, con eso se solucionó perfectamente. Muchas gracias
  16. 1 point
    Autoleveling is a non feature
  17. 1 point
    Just attach the bow to the top of the print head as its printing.
  18. 1 point
    Do they also provide .the stl files for musical skill and talent?
  19. 1 point
    bonjour, petite précision suite a vos commentaire, ayant travaillé dans une miroiterie, le verre en question est de ce qu'on appel du verre trempé, donc verre blanc recuit avec tout un processus de refroidissement pour qu'il en devienne un produit plus résistant au choc et qu'au rayure, donc suite a se traitement il est impossible de le retailler ou de le coupé, sans risque de le voir éclater ( comme une plat en pyrex ) et bien-sur au risque de s'en prendre plein le visage. info page 3: http://www.glasstime.com/download/fr/Guardian_GlassTime_FR_Chapter-07.pdf
  20. 1 point
    I like using the .6 or large nozzles for Wood Filaments it gives me nice results and i'm not afraid of clogging the nozzles anymore Obviously it's also interesting for printing faster, if you want to do some rapid prototyping with no care for surface quality you can go for the 1mm nozzle and print fat layers (.5mm). It also reduces the time if you do .8 walls and it also has an impact on infill (a 20% infill with a 0.8mm nozzle will take less time than with a .4mm nozzle and be much stronger)
  21. 1 point
    .6mm is twice as fast and .8mm is 4x as fast. I did most of my quadcopter parts with .8mm. If you want functional things the .8mm is great. If you want something that is a masterpiece then go with .4mm. With the .8mm I usually do 0.8mm shell - that's just one pass! And creates very strong parts. It's also useful for making a vase or a cup or something out of transparent PLA. Transparent PLA looks best with very thick layers and just one pass. 0.8mm or 1.0mm nozzles are great for that and do thick layers like .6mm thick.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Post processing on the barrel was just the muzzle end which was on the build plate. I am lazy when possible. On the carriage and wheels a little razor knife work and 100 grit sand paper not a lot. The key to this is print both the carriage and wheels in black and then go back and paint the wood on, around the bolts heads etc. I used Testors # 1140 brown, If you do just one coat and the black print shows thru some and gives it a wood look. I will ad to prints.
  23. 1 point
    Hi Marin, ich habe die letzten Tage deine Wakü bekommen und am Wochenende eingebaut. Hat in Meinen Augen eine sehr hochwertige und genaue Verarbeitungsqualität so weit ich das beurteilen kann als Modellbaumechaniker. Eine kleine Tüte mit diversen Kleinteilen ist auch mit dabei. Zum Hintergrund zu meinem Ultimaker 2 der nicht ganz konventionell auf dual umgebaut ist. Ich betreibe die linke Düse mit 2,85mm Filament und dem Bondtech Extruder und die rechte bis her mit 1,75mm Filament einem Bulldog XL als Extruder und einem PTFE ID 2mm. Beide mit Olssen Block und 0,4 Düse. Wenn mein 1,75er verbraucht ist baue ich auch auf Bondtech und 2,85mm um. Ich drucke überwiegend ABS. Bis her habe ich noch nicht viel mit dem Wakü Umbau gedruckt. Dennoch konnte ich auch schon erste Erfahrungen machen. Was mir als ersten aufgefallen ist, dadurch das die Hotzone jetzt kleiner aber dafür die Temperatur über die gesamte länge gleich mässig ist, ist ein homogeneres drucken mit dem ABS möglich. Was man auch an dem druck selber sieht. Auf einem Foto ist das leider nicht mehr erkennbar. Auch bin ich der Meinung das das nachlaufen durch die Wakü in der Düse minimiert wird. Die Wakü-Platte hat im betrieb eine Temperatur von ca. 25 Grad. Hoffe das ich bald erste Ergebnisse mit Dualdruck präsentieren kann. @ zerspaner_Gerd Meiner Meinung ist auch ein Dual druck mit PLA schöner vom Ergebnis. Da das flies verhalten von PLA deutlich besser ist als von ABS. Ob sich das mit den neuen Legierten Düsen die gerade im kommen sind besser wir muss ich noch Testen. So sieht das ganze dann bei mir eingebaut aus. Die Messing Hülsen habe ich noch als Abstandhalter mit eingebaut. Da ich gemerkt habe das wenn ich zu ein wenig zu fest anziehe mir die Platte unten entgegen kommt. weitere Bilder kommen noch Gruß Martin ( Beta Tester )
  24. 1 point
    I will try them all in a drip test and vapor polish test to compare. Will post results later.
  25. 1 point
    Interesting.....no reply from our Romanian friend anymore.
  26. 1 point
    Looks great. Like the logo... looks professional indead. .. I always wondered why not more people use the um2 head on an original... I guess the new Um2 upgrade kit may change this...
  27. 1 point
    Ok, just like many others here i also ran into the problem with the heated bed. Here is THE way to fix this problem, it works ! The problem is on the board itself and is caused by the thin ( to thin ) lines that go to the contacts for the temp sensor. I took out my heated bed to inspect the soldering, looked fine but still the bed caused problems, the temp goes crazy, runs up to 150 degrees + and than you get the error. this is how to solve it permanently.. remove the screws on the block where the 4 wires are attached. You need a soldering iron on 385 degrees max. remove the block and clean the contacts on the board and the contacts on the block. Than put new soldering on the contacts on the left ( the ones that heat up the bed ) solder the block back but only the 2 contacts on the left. Now take 2 thin electrical wired and solder them on them on the block on the right ( for the temp sensor ) In the picture you see the brown wire goes to the sensor on top, the red one goes to the sensor below. solder the 2 wires there and it works like a charm again. Here below is a picture of the solution, i think that everybody who has worked on the heated bed can recognize this and sees how the solution works. I found out that the lines on the board for the temp sensor are very very tiny, you can not resolder them, to little. but with these 2 bypasses, it works perfectly again Good luck Marco
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