Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/02/2016 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Printed this for the wife - the names of all our family. Printed in ABS with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height. The printer was left open, no paper or cardboard covering it. Obviously it did not distort or delaminate during the print. It took around 8 hours to print at 60mm/sec and 45mm/sec for outer edges. The only thing that went a bit wrong was that I did not print it solid, so it leaked a little. That was easy to fix, I simply washed the inside with acetone, and minutes later it was dry and waterproof.
  2. 4 points
    Finally on holiday with a little spare time to post a few prints from last year: [print=3810][/print] [print=3806][/print] [print=3800][/print] [print=3799][/print] [print=3796][/print]
  3. 2 points
    This isn't my absolute most recent print, as I've been printing fairly heavily this week. But I just opened a batch of Faberdashery pearl white and I'm a little mesmerized by it. I kind of want to print everything right now. This is Loubie's Aria dragon on Thingiverse/YouMagine. I love this print. A one-piece dragon with no supports needed. And this vampire skull is for my mom's boyfriend. I printed one a couple years ago when I was new to 3D printing...that one wasn't bad, but this one looks so much better.
  4. 1 point
    Yes I am here - who called? There was one other "trick" for XTCF-20. Measure the diameter of your filament. I had to set mine to 2.9mm in the filament profile on the printer (Material->Settings->Customize)
  5. 1 point
    Hallo, Habe jetzt mal mein Fanshroud mit dem Material biofila PlaTEC wo @avogra empfohlen hat gedruckt. Bin Begeistert . Lässt sich super drucken bei 205C, weiter positiv aufgefallen man sieht die einzelnen Layer nicht mehr so stark. Der erste 7Std. bei 255C Druck kein verziehen, eine Stelle wo leicht eingefärbt ist, sonst Garnichts. Habe jetzt noch in nachhinein eine Abschirmung mit folgenden Produkt (GOLD Thermo Hitzschutz Tape) verwendet. @Dim3nsioneer: Mit Keramikband war ich nicht so 100% überzeugt, habe dann dieses Video auf eBay gesehen. Bei 5:15min wird das Besagte Produkt gezeigt. Das sollte doch das perfekte Produkt sein. Das hat sich super zuschneiden lassen, mal sehen was es bringt. Gruß Gerd
  6. 1 point
    I had a similar issue a few months back, and it wasn't the nozzle joint leaking for me. It was coming from the top of my Olsson block, where the metal isolator screws onto the Olsson block. The cause for my leak was a loose spacer above the PTFE coupler. If there's not enough pressure on that part (mine was a home made plastic cylinder, yours is the shiny metal cylinder in your pictures), then melted filament leaks and works its way through the isolator threads.
  7. 1 point
    I've started printing my concept speargun at ulti settings now and the results are exceeding my expectations. I have done a bit of post-print work but for the results you get regarding strength and quality... and possibly durability... its looking so worth it. I can't believe how 'sturdy' it feels in my hand. Best filament so far... for working parts.
  8. 1 point
    The whole thing was modelled in Blender. There is a plugin to create spiral curves, and then a mesh - in this case the letters - has a Curve modifier attached that distorts it along a curve.
  9. 1 point
    Interessant comme technique @RonanB avec le filament de cuivre ça devrait aller je pense, le tout est de ne pas arracher tout quand on tire sur le fil! Sinon j'ai cru comprendre que le filament sort toujours pour sam? Quand je fais un atomic (en général je le fais au PLA) je fais sortir du filament en poussant à température haute (dans le cas de l'ABS 250 - 260°c), je laisse sortir une bonne quantité si c'est possible puis je met la température basse. Je pense que c'est aux alentours des 130°c pour l'ABS. Pendant que la température descends je continue de pousser sur le filament pour ce continue à sortir, ce qui va bien remplir l'intérieur de la buse. A un moment donné ça ne va plus sortir, tu peux arreter. Une fois que la température froide est atteinte on tire un bon coup sur le filament et normalement ca doit avoir un bel aspect conique.
  10. 1 point
    Don't worry, our bubbles are busted so frequently that we hardly notice it anymore ;-) The issue that was fixed was timing related; things are/were happening in different threads, and sometimes the order in which things finished was unexpected. This happened mostly on Windows, but there is/was no reason why it could not happen on OSX too. So we have hopes that the fix for the issue we saw on Windows also fixed the same issue on OSX. But like our bubbles bursting, our hopes have a tendency of shattering. Especially when it comes to bugs like this. Fingers crossed...
  11. 1 point
    If you want a machine for business you need 2 machines. I would get a um2+ and a umo+ and upgrade it with gt2 pulley/belt um2 sideblocks and um2+ upgrade kit. This way you learn to assemble the um+ and mod it so it prints like a um2. Or just two um2+. With just one machine you won't be able to keep the production going if anything goes wrong. If your parts are small you could go with a um2go for backup and a um+. That will give you knowhow and two machines for the price of one um2.
  12. 1 point
    I love these kind of requests, because you want things that are in there Settings->Preferences->General->Scale large files Settings->Preferences->View->centre camera
  13. 1 point
    Ouch it leaked somehow. Most probably the nozzle wasn't tight enough? So first thing to do is clean the mess, can you still heat up the nozzle? (Go to maintenance -> Advanced -> Heatup Nozzle) If yes heat up to 220°c or 230°c and remove the plastic with tweezers or whatever tool you have. Pay attention to the two white cable in the back (heater and temp sensor). Then you probably need to take the nozzle away, heat up to at least 140°c and unscrew it Maybe you can do an atomic method or two before removing it. When everything is clean put the nozzle back (tighten it when hot, 140°c at least), don't overtighten, but make sure it's tightened enough (i'd advise to use the torque wrench you can find on youmagine to do this afterwards). Hope this helps!
  14. 1 point
    Having worked on UMO+ and UM2 machines flowalistik, I definitely agree with your assessment. Putting the machine together yourself does make it that much easier if you have to service it. Having the open sides does also make it easier to get at things like the pulleys and endstops if you need to change out parts. I had a lot of experience with the UM2 machine before I ever set my hands on a UMO+. As far as assembling/disassembling/repairs go, I think you can access the pulleys easier to swap out the belts on the UMO+, but at the same time, I prefer assembling the UM2 XY axes to the UMO+ axes by a big margin. The UM2 pulleys all go straight to the ends of the rods, and the set screws hold them in place. Having the pulleys sit some way in on the axes was a little disorienting for me the first time I put together a UMO+. The bed and electronics are the same. There are the differences in the printhead, but with the Olsson block on the UM2+ and the aluminum block with separate nozzle, those feel like they are starting to look more similar again. And now both have the geared feeder. It's not more difficult compared to an Ultimaker Original+, although most users would find more trouble doing some maintenance due to a very simple thing: assembling an Ultimaker kit makes you see how everything works, it's a learning process. Ultimaker 2 users may not fully understand what causes a problem and that may lead to unnecessary tweaking before realizing that it's Y and not X what it's not working.
  15. 1 point
    Because your machine is covered - try lowering the bed to 50C. The PLA should stick just as well. I did experiments where I did a 2 minute print (the bottom 5 layers of the ultimaker robot) about 20 times with different settings. I used a scale and a screwdriver to push the part off the bed (while bed was still hot) and measured the force. I tried glue/noglue. I tried hairspray. I tried many different temperatures. There was a huge difference around 35C where cooler than 35C and the part came of with about 1/10 the force. After that I never print with bed cooler than 40C. 50C should be quite safe - well above that critical threshold. The next threshold is around 60C to 70C where you are above the glass temp of PLA and if you can keep the bottom 2mm of the part above glass temp you get horrible "wall cave in" but you get zero "lifting off bed" problems. You don't want wall cave in" so once you are down to 60C there isn't much "down side" to going even cooler to 50C as you are now below glass temp of PLA anyway. Finally another completely different option - you could print the bottom 5mm of the part at 190C and at 1/4 speed and then speed it up when you are well past the "wall cave in" area. If this works you can hand edit the gcode or use the "tweakAtZ" plugin to change temp and/or speed at a given Z height.
  16. 1 point
    I been playing with wipe and coasting since today I got a lot of free time for the first time in 3 weeks. And.. well. Coasting distance, works much better with very very very short distances like 0,04-0,20. Using like I used before distances of 0.40-0.60 creates an error on the print, when doing a TON of retracts and extruding very small amounts of material, like my little texts that are on a process that uses 0.32-0.36. There's a point that makes it under extrude the text after the 3-4layer because there are errors on the restart after a retract since some material has been lost on the wipe/retract. Specially when printing more than 1 at the same time. With just 1 it happens but ... well... depends on the material mostly. About wipe: If you activate Wipe nozzle and you have 'Perform retraction during wipe movement' then the distance you set for 'Wipe nozzle' it doesn't matter. It will wipe as much time as the retracts takes place. So if you retract faster the wipe distance will change. Also it will only wipe if the minimum travel for retraction kicks in, so it won't wipe always, but only when he can. To be able to control wipe nozzle, you must deactivate the perform retraction during wipe, but that also removes the retraction. So... It's quite like juggling balls. Ofc the amount of filament lost could be controlled with extra restart distance. But that would need a very fine tune with a big amount of print tests. Resuming: a) Save coasting for very drippy filaments b) Wipe nozzle + advanced 'perform retract during wipe' cancels the distance of the wipe with as much as he needs to retract (so retraction speed + distance defines this) c) Wipe alone without retraction can be controlled. This it's how the retraction speed affects how much distance will the wipe do when te option 'perform retract during wipe' it's enabled.
  17. 1 point
    [print=3785][/print] Made this for daughter's boyfriend who will be gifting it to his boss soon. Now everyone who has seen it wants one of their own, lol.
  18. 1 point
    Here's the start code I use for UM2 on simplify3D, but can obviously also be used in Cura when you want to use RepRap (marlin/sprinter) i.s.o. UtiGcode. I start the priming in the front-middle due to my 2head setup, so you probalby want to change to front-left. G28 ; home all axesG1 X110 Y45 F3000 ; bring extruder to the frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z30 ; lowerG1 E50 F225 ; purge nozzle with 50mm of filamentG1 X80 Y60 F3000 ; move aside of the puddle of primed plasticG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again and the end code G28 ; home allM104 S0 ; turn off heatersM140 S0 ; turn off bedM84 ; disable motors
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!