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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/02/2016 in all areas

  1. Printed this for the wife - the names of all our family. Printed in ABS with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height. The printer was left open, no paper or cardboard covering it. Obviously it did not distort or delaminate during the print. It took around 8 hours to print at 60mm/sec and 45mm/sec for outer edges. The only thing that went a bit wrong was that I did not print it solid, so it leaked a little. That was easy to fix, I simply washed the inside with acetone, and minutes later it was dry and waterproof.
    8 points
  2. Finally on holiday with a little spare time to post a few prints from last year: [print=3810][/print] [print=3806][/print] [print=3800][/print] [print=3799][/print] [print=3796][/print]
    4 points
  3. This isn't my absolute most recent print, as I've been printing fairly heavily this week. But I just opened a batch of Faberdashery pearl white and I'm a little mesmerized by it. I kind of want to print everything right now. This is Loubie's Aria dragon on Thingiverse/YouMagine. I love this print. A one-piece dragon with no supports needed. And this vampire skull is for my mom's boyfriend. I printed one a couple years ago when I was new to 3D printing...that one wasn't bad, but this one looks so much better.
    2 points
  4. Yes I am here - who called? There was one other "trick" for XTCF-20. Measure the diameter of your filament. I had to set mine to 2.9mm in the filament profile on the printer (Material->Settings->Customize)
    1 point
  5. Hallo, Habe jetzt mal mein Fanshroud mit dem Material biofila PlaTEC wo @avogra empfohlen hat gedruckt. Bin Begeistert . Lässt sich super drucken bei 205C, weiter positiv aufgefallen man sieht die einzelnen Layer nicht mehr so stark. Der erste 7Std. bei 255C Druck kein verziehen, eine Stelle wo leicht eingefärbt ist, sonst Garnichts. Habe jetzt noch in nachhinein eine Abschirmung mit folgenden Produkt (GOLD Thermo Hitzschutz Tape) verwendet. @Dim3nsioneer: Mit Keramikband war ich nicht so 100% überzeugt, habe dann dieses Video auf eBay gesehen. Bei 5:15min wird das Besagte Produkt
    1 point
  6. I had a similar issue a few months back, and it wasn't the nozzle joint leaking for me. It was coming from the top of my Olsson block, where the metal isolator screws onto the Olsson block. The cause for my leak was a loose spacer above the PTFE coupler. If there's not enough pressure on that part (mine was a home made plastic cylinder, yours is the shiny metal cylinder in your pictures), then melted filament leaks and works its way through the isolator threads.
    1 point
  7. I've started printing my concept speargun at ulti settings now and the results are exceeding my expectations. I have done a bit of post-print work but for the results you get regarding strength and quality... and possibly durability... its looking so worth it. I can't believe how 'sturdy' it feels in my hand. Best filament so far... for working parts.
    1 point
  8. The whole thing was modelled in Blender. There is a plugin to create spiral curves, and then a mesh - in this case the letters - has a Curve modifier attached that distorts it along a curve.
    1 point
  9. Interessant comme technique @RonanB avec le filament de cuivre ça devrait aller je pense, le tout est de ne pas arracher tout quand on tire sur le fil! Sinon j'ai cru comprendre que le filament sort toujours pour sam? Quand je fais un atomic (en général je le fais au PLA) je fais sortir du filament en poussant à température haute (dans le cas de l'ABS 250 - 260°c), je laisse sortir une bonne quantité si c'est possible puis je met la température basse. Je pense que c'est aux alentours des 130°c pour l'ABS. Pendant que la température descends je continue de pousser sur le filament pour ce co
    1 point
  10. Don't worry, our bubbles are busted so frequently that we hardly notice it anymore ;-) The issue that was fixed was timing related; things are/were happening in different threads, and sometimes the order in which things finished was unexpected. This happened mostly on Windows, but there is/was no reason why it could not happen on OSX too. So we have hopes that the fix for the issue we saw on Windows also fixed the same issue on OSX. But like our bubbles bursting, our hopes have a tendency of shattering. Especially when it comes to bugs like this. Fingers crossed...
    1 point
  11. If you want a machine for business you need 2 machines. I would get a um2+ and a umo+ and upgrade it with gt2 pulley/belt um2 sideblocks and um2+ upgrade kit. This way you learn to assemble the um+ and mod it so it prints like a um2. Or just two um2+. With just one machine you won't be able to keep the production going if anything goes wrong. If your parts are small you could go with a um2go for backup and a um+. That will give you knowhow and two machines for the price of one um2.
    1 point
  12. I love these kind of requests, because you want things that are in there Settings->Preferences->General->Scale large files Settings->Preferences->View->centre camera
    1 point
  13. Ouch it leaked somehow. Most probably the nozzle wasn't tight enough? So first thing to do is clean the mess, can you still heat up the nozzle? (Go to maintenance -> Advanced -> Heatup Nozzle) If yes heat up to 220°c or 230°c and remove the plastic with tweezers or whatever tool you have. Pay attention to the two white cable in the back (heater and temp sensor). Then you probably need to take the nozzle away, heat up to at least 140°c and unscrew it Maybe you can do an atomic method or two before removing it. When everything is clean put the nozzle back (tighten it when hot, 140°c
    1 point
  14. Having worked on UMO+ and UM2 machines flowalistik, I definitely agree with your assessment. Putting the machine together yourself does make it that much easier if you have to service it. Having the open sides does also make it easier to get at things like the pulleys and endstops if you need to change out parts. I had a lot of experience with the UM2 machine before I ever set my hands on a UMO+. As far as assembling/disassembling/repairs go, I think you can access the pulleys easier to swap out the belts on the UMO+, but at the same time, I prefer assembling the UM2 XY axes to the UMO+ axes
    1 point
  15. Because your machine is covered - try lowering the bed to 50C. The PLA should stick just as well. I did experiments where I did a 2 minute print (the bottom 5 layers of the ultimaker robot) about 20 times with different settings. I used a scale and a screwdriver to push the part off the bed (while bed was still hot) and measured the force. I tried glue/noglue. I tried hairspray. I tried many different temperatures. There was a huge difference around 35C where cooler than 35C and the part came of with about 1/10 the force. After that I never print with bed cooler than 40C. 50C should b
    1 point
  16. I been playing with wipe and coasting since today I got a lot of free time for the first time in 3 weeks. And.. well. Coasting distance, works much better with very very very short distances like 0,04-0,20. Using like I used before distances of 0.40-0.60 creates an error on the print, when doing a TON of retracts and extruding very small amounts of material, like my little texts that are on a process that uses 0.32-0.36. There's a point that makes it under extrude the text after the 3-4layer because there are errors on the restart after a retract since some material has been lost on the wipe/
    1 point
  17. [print=3785][/print] Made this for daughter's boyfriend who will be gifting it to his boss soon. Now everyone who has seen it wants one of their own, lol.
    1 point
  18. Here's the start code I use for UM2 on simplify3D, but can obviously also be used in Cura when you want to use RepRap (marlin/sprinter) i.s.o. UtiGcode. I start the priming in the front-middle due to my 2head setup, so you probalby want to change to front-left. G28 ; home all axesG1 X110 Y45 F3000 ; bring extruder to the frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z30 ; lowerG1 E50 F225 ; purge nozzle with 50mm of filamentG1 X80 Y60 F3000 ; move aside of the puddle of primed plasticG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again and the end code G28 ; home allM104 S0 ; turn off heatersM140
    1 point
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