Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/05/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hello Team, my name is Erwin, and I just joined the "community". Ultimaker 2+ ("Oskar") just works on the fourth object of his so far short life. "Erwin" is a fake name, but I like it since I used it for my dwarf back in good ol' AD&D-times. I am old (financed my study of physics developing software in a language called FORTRAN :-D). My hobby is combining analog electronics with digital and apply this to gardening challenges e.g. an intelligent and self-sufficient 4-zone watering of my greenhouse independent of any electrical power-lines. I suck at building boxes and improvise from stuff that one usually finds in the scrap box of a hobby workshop. Now I am proud owner of an ultimaker 2+ and ... tataaa ... I am turning into a semiprofessional and build boxes and clamps and gearboxes and and and (wish ;-) ). I am glad to be here and - of course - very excited with all the wonderful and creative people around here. My dark side is: I am an almost dogmatic open-source promoter, and my computer runs on ubuntu :-). Stay safe and healthy, have a great day and always filament on the spool. Erwin
  2. 1 point
    i have a lot of questions, but first well done to the people involved in this :-) did you use the new stepper motor that came with the upgrade kit, or just use the original? the "Esteps" setting that you changed, is that due to the new motor or due to the new extruder? whats the PID setting all about, is that due to a higher wattage heater? do think i need to do the same, as i went for a UM2 hot end assy then fitted the olsson block, i didnt go for the UM2 Plus upgrade. You didnt mention about changing the pinter head size in the machine settings in cura! well you saved me the hassel of figuring out the firmware. i had to revert back to the UMO + firmware after my upgrade to the UM2 + firmware. i didnt like how the bed is leveled for the UM2 and the extruder steps were drifferent and worked in reverse. (i shouldnt of changed so much too soon) at the moment i using the UM2 + hotend with the UM2 sliding blocks. this new firmware builder, am i right in thinking that i can now use my UM2 LCD display? is that what the "full graphic smart controller" is? do you know where i can buy just the extruder feeder (the white block, not sure whats its called), i have looked every where. it might of been easier just to buy the upgrade kit but it was too much at around the £330 i bought a Hot end assy clone for £76 inc. heater, sensor and fans then bought the olsson block on ebay for around £40 pounds (new inc. four different nozzels) and the UM2 LCD display and controller for £35 (clone) bought the UM2 sliding block for £20 (clone, but they weren't perfect, had to add some tape to get them the same level) make my own cables (look the same but took some time). plus new rods for around £20 (ended up buying them locally, as the ones that arrived in the post were slightly bent) and before i forget, the fans have failed on the hot end assy after 2wks. (cant expect every thing to work on cheaper clone versions)
  3. 1 point
    The one for children and the one for wood both have PVA as the primary ingredient. This is also the key ingredient in hair spray and glue stick. Any of these work but my favorite is "wood glue". For wood glue mixed with 10 parts water I use a paint brush and paint it right on the glass inside the printer. Heat the bed and it dries quickly:
  4. 1 point
    Les occasions de me faire plaisir sont rares et comme j'adore les figurines de Leo Haslam (fichiers dispo sur youmagine et thingiverse) je me suis lancé. Le tout a pris 250 heures d'impression en PLA. (neofiil 3d) et j'ai terminé mes fonds de bobine esun pour le socle. précision buse 0.4 ou 0.25 et les layers 0.05 à 0.2 selon les fichiers. Aucun support n'est nécessaire le fichier est découpé pour l'impression. Pour l'instant j'ai passé une couche de résine (nanovia) et il me reste la peinture et quelques accessoires a finir de coller.
  5. 1 point
    Voila après réglage des poulies grâce à 2 outils de réglages puis impressions tests, tout est bon ! mes angles sont droits ! Merci à tous ceux qui m'ont aiguillés dans cette démarche. A bientôt.
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!