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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/21/2016 in all areas

  1. Well... I'm usually not the guy arguing in public, but this time it's just too much... As we all have some trouble with our UM2 extruders and couplers are quite expensive I looked for an alternative solution and found the E3D Titan Extruder and the V6 Hotend. I've used the robert's alternative feeder for a while, quite good but not top notch. As I contacted E3D first they sent me a pre-version of the online wiki with links to the extra parts I have to print, a pre-modified firmware etc. Looked good so I ordered the parts and received them a week later Meanwhile I got an email from E3D that
    1 point
  2. Bloc Ollson installé !! eh beh une sacré m***e.... impossible de retirer la sonde et la cartouche de chauffe. Même en chauffant ou refroidissant au préalable ça ne bougeait pas d'un µm... Obligé de sortir la Dremel et de disquer le bloc en laiton puis d'écarter au tournevis.... M'enfin c'est fait, ça fonctionne et on n'y reviendra plus ^^
    1 point
  3. In case you want to actually prevent the shortcuts you can try "combing". It will keep the nozzle "inside" already printed parts. Beware: Last time I tried this option, the effect on the final result was not big but the noise due to the difficult paths sounded like the printer was trying to kill itself. Maybe combine with a lower the travel speed.
    1 point
  4. Am I able to flash to the Tinkergnome firmware through the arduino software, just like any other marlin firmware? Or is there a different process. Just asking before I screw anything up. I don't see any process instructions on the tinkergnome page.
    1 point
  5. Hallo Stephan, Ich benutze dieses hier: Taft Ultimate Eigentlich wollte ich dieses hier kaufen Taft Ultra aber in den erst besten laden wo ich rein gegangen bin, gab es nur das obige. Und da das besseren halt angibt, kann es ja nicht schaden Hier der alte Post Ich drucke PLA, XT und PET! Ich bin von dem colorfabb Filament begeistert, das ist verdammt gut aufgerollt. Bei den Ultimaker Filamente war mind. 1mal pro Rolle einknoten drin. Gruß Gerd
    1 point
  6. Very interesting developement. I modified the tower to double the perimeter length (by increasing the x and y dimensions 41.4%) which should roughly double the print time per layer and used all the same slicer settings as before and the layer banding doubled on that print in frequency. Take a look.... I'm thinking this is caused by inconsistent extrusion rates now caused by some sort of inconsistent feed per revolution of the either the knurled feeder gear, extruder gears or extruder motor itself (or if i should be so lucky, all the above, lol). Thank you @neotko for suggesting bangba
    1 point
  7. The text file gcode is to manually update. I would advice you just install tinkergnome firmware and the adjusting of e steps is just in the advance menu...
    1 point
  8. I am not understanding at all. What would I do with a text .gcode file after that? Where can I find my current value to even calculate my new number? I'm moving 75mm out of 100. Is there seriously not a simple, step by step guide anywhere for stupid people like myself?
    1 point
  9. I have both and I would get the extended. It does get a little bit of vibration lines on tall parts but small items that you would normally print on the UM2 are the same, for the flexibility it's worth it to have the extended. The UM2go has the best quality and is my most used printer.
    1 point
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