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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/31/2016 in all areas

  1. I just wasted 15 hours and a lot of plastic on the autoscale feature. namely I did not notice that it did scale the STL file and printed it. Now the feature is possible to turn off but I would like to know in what situation do this option EVER need to be on ?? Having it on can result in really bad result as I just experienced can anything equally bad happen if it is not ON ?? That is I would really really like to see that option not existing at all as this problem is going to happen to more people than me. If the model is to large put up a dialog or something asking if it should be scaled
    1 point
  2. Well clearly we all understand what scaling a model does. It's doing it automatically that make no sense. Of everything I printed only a very few could actually be scaled. Most of the thing I print needs to be the size its designed to be and changing it is just going to make the whole thing useless. If the thing do not fit ask the user don't just assume it's ok to scale. Its to easy to miss that this scaling happens and the result is WAY worse than having a model that can not be sliced until the user scales it to fit. I see no reason to retain this feature, just always ask the user.
    1 point
  3. @Eraser: @iroberti's picture shows the spacers I meant. Could you fix that pulley without screw in the meantime? If you need a new grub screw and have problem with getting it because it's metric you may get in contact with @valcrow. He is the Canadian distributor.
    1 point
  4. No need. All the older versions up to 15.xx can run next to each other.
    1 point
  5. I did everything I said I would do, and I tried to print the Heart Necklace that came with the printer, and it came out fine 8) Now instead of trying to re-print the same code that kept failing, incase it was the code itself causing me to have to repeat the atomic method, I'm going to change slicer software and see if it was a bug within the code that caused the issue. I will keep you updated on the progress, again thank you to everyone for your support. The piece I am trying to print is the 1st half, center section left side part 2 cut of the Hawkmoon Pistol model, it is one of 18 part
    1 point
  6. Oilers help make the hotend more coated to protect the metal, It is easier to pass though and their will be less, issues, It eliminated all my issues with clogging.
    1 point
  7. I don't know about S3D but it sounds like you need to raise your bed a little bit (untighten each leveling screw about 1/3-1/2 turn. The lines on the first layer should certainly be touching without fudging of the settings.
    1 point
  8. Don't use oil for PLA, it is not needed. Or I should say, if you do need it, something is seriously wrong. The only time I might recommend using a _tiny_ amount of oil is if you're printing something like NinjaFlex. For rigid filaments it should not be used. Could you share your print settings as well? If you try printing one of the files that came with the card, does it work then? Have you tried printing a file that has worked previously? If you look at the filament at the feeder when your print has failed, has the feeder dug a hole into it? Have you tried a different spool of filament?
    1 point
  9. Yeah, I didn't want to say anything but it looks like a copy to me as well. Different menu button. Missing label around the SDcard slot. Missing "Extended" on the z-cap. Labels on the model cooling fans that I've never seen before. "Extended" text looks too fat. Missing ferrite cores.
    1 point
  10. It also might be the level. Make sure you level correctly. Here is a guide to how your first layer should look like. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21330-what-does-a-successful-first-layer-look-like
    1 point
  11. Might want to increase the temperature a bit, and play with the retraction. Leveling close is sometimes not good, because then the nozzle may scrap the part. Please let us know your temperature on the heated bed, and hotend. I think it should be fairly okay, but under extrusion or low temperature printing can also lead to clogs. In addition a good upgrade you can do is use an oiler, I have it on the Robo 3D and when I did not I would have issues, now I do not. It will help with less clogs too, if you mostly print in PLA.
    1 point
  12. You are over extruding a bit. The extra filament pressure builds up in the nozzle and occasionally a little extra spurts out and makes a little bumpy thing. This is the bottom layer and usually you *want* it to over extrude a bit. If you just ignore this and let it print the next layer up things should be fine. The bottom layer is affected by leveling - if you level slightly too far from the bed then you will get what looks like underextrusion plus your part won't stick well (if it all). If you level too close (this is good) you can get these bumps. Much better to be too close like this.
    1 point
  13. Try doing this: When you are homing after the z-axis homes, quickly press the x-limit switch if it stops then we probably know it is not your limit switch and one or both of your stepper motors.
    1 point
  14. You said you checked all the rollers (we call them pulleys), does that include the ones that sit directly on the motor shafts?
    1 point
  15. 60 mm/s isn't really that fast, so long as you weren't running really cold - my guess would be that possibly the filament got tangled up a little bit, so the extruder had a harder time feeding it cleanly. Over on my http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ about extrusion speeds and limits, ErikZalm has recently commented on some tests he's done using an encoder to measure filament feed rates - reinforcing my rather more indirect findings, and directly observing what I had long suspected - that the difficulty of getting filament off the spool materially
    1 point
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