Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/14/2016 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hello community, I follow you from some months, I had a Prusa printer as starting point for this hobby, now I have a UM2 from about 4 months. It's a very good printer for hobby purpose I like it very much, I think is one of the best printer at that price. The only thing I don't like is the model cooling way. It's so poor, any stupid overhang prints out not so good, the workaround is to print at a very slow speed at about 25-20mm/sec. I know blower radial fan are better than standard UM fan but it's hard to find 30mm blowers and because I've replaced stock fan with Sunon's ones I decided to disassemble stocks to modify them in radial style. I don't know if someone had my same idea and if it's already done so I'm here to share with you what I'm doing. The idea is to use UM motors and put them in a new case as blower. I found there is a lot more air pressure than standard configuration, needs to try them over the printer. What do you think about?
  2. 1 point
    Yeah! I've attached a rocket engine to the printer to make things faster Yes, everything is related to the simulator, Daid already talked about this weird behavior, nothing to care about. And yes, I agree with both statements: info density is not a priority but I try to make the paths shorter (and related hierarchically). I'm focusing on aesthetics and intuitiveness, but the thing is, this way brings faster access to some parts of the firmware than going throw the current menu structure, it's not about a beauty but useless screen. On the other hand, the print info screen is where info density becomes crucial (or not, depending on the user needs), I haven't worked on it yet, It's a pending task. I'm also turning an idea since I started this project, something that I already discussed with tinkergnome: the possibility of allowing the user to configure the menu options. The concept is very clear to me, I would create another icon in the main menu, a quick-launch submenu where the user selects icons as shortcuts to any other node. Then it should be possible to choose to start at main menu or quick-launch menu, both also accesible from the other one. The problem is the way it has to be coded, this is a modular approach, the one I'm used to work with OOP, but currently the menu system is very hardcoded and I should rewrite a lot. For now I'm still working on the main UI, the ToDo list is huge! Thanks for your feedback
  3. 1 point
    I was having persistent problems with PLA warping and pulling off the print bed when printing large parts. I tried (individually, and in combinations): - raising nozzle temperature - raising print bed temperature - slow first print layer - thicker first print layer - disable fans for several layers - glue stick - releveling print bed - clean print bed with rubbing alcohol But I couldn't get a perfect result without any warping. Until now. Geert's salt method works amazing. Using it, I can drop the nozzle and print bed temperatures back to normal - which also improves print quality. I used it on a 9 hour print (that I had previously repeatedly aborted and restarted due to warping), and it printed flawlessly. Thanks Geert.
  4. 1 point
    Da es seit kurzem eine linke Version gibt habe ich einen Umbausatz angefragt und bestellt. Hier ein paar Bilder von dem Umbausatz: Kann man momentan nicht über die Homepage bestellen, aber per Email hat es auch super funktioniert. Sehr freundlicher Kontakt.
  5. 1 point
    Ich habe jetzt aufgrund der guten Meinung der Düsen einen Satz bestellt und siehe da, die Düsen sind wesentlich größer als die Originalen UM. Die UM Düsen haben eine Schlüsselweite von 7mm und die Hoffmann Düsen haben eine Schlüsselweite von 10mm. Hier mal 2 Bilder zum vergleich (Die Messingfarbene ist die Original Ultimaker und die Silberne ist die von Hoffmann): Ob und in wie weit sich das größere Volumen der Hoffmann Düsen auswirkt kann ich noch nicht sagen. Da ich noch keinen Druck gestartet habe. Wie geht das? Ich habe darüber noch keine Information gefunden.
  6. 1 point
    Hmm... in this case a screen saver function would be nice... what do you think, @Tinkergnome?
  7. 1 point
    I've seen it before. I think it's just the nature of the beast when it comes to OLED displays.
  8. 1 point
    After a print failure where the part came away from the bed and got all mangled into my print head (i had left it running overnight). I just could not get my Ultimaker 2 plus to print properly again. I just could not stop my first layer warping and if I did manage to get one to stick using glue the print was terrible, layers were skipping and the head kept getting blocked up after a few layers. After many many many attempts at re-levelling and changes to speed and temperature settings I eventually found the problem, there was actually 2. 1. The cables that power the fan and the head were slightly touching the nozzle fan and stopping it from spinning. This was causing the head to overheat and block the nozzle. it takes very little to stop the fan so if you are experiencImg blockages after a few layers check that you fan is spinning freely. 2. The bars that hold the head are clipped into the guides, the one at the front had become unclipped presumably due to my print failure pulling it out. After I had resolved both these the problem was solved and I again am getting brilliant prints straight onto the glass with no warping or issues. Worth keeping in mind if you are having print problems.
  9. 1 point
    life was just so much easier with square robots
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!