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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/11/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Went to the T-Rex exhibit here in leiden Holland, and this is an Impressive T-Rex, the most complete T-rex found. They made some 3D printed parts and castings from other T-rex skeletons to make it complete, and it is a beauty And what did I find at the end of the exhibit, an Ultimaker print farm of 9 Ultimakers, and this:
  2. 2 points
    Ultimakus Unlimitus Rex... Actually, those bones are just decoration for the Ultimaker exhibition, aren't they?
  3. 2 points
    Mon frère faisant construire, il a opté pour de l'isolation extérieur. La pose des volets roulants étant faite avant, ils ont regardé comment mettre les caches des caissons. Petit problème, c'est que la pièce d'origine qui se fixe avec le cache n'allait plus du tout. Du coup bibi à repris la pièce, et agrandit un côté. Après le test sur une pièce, et le résultat étant convaincant, petite série de 18 à faire. Et la petite série au complet Pour accélérer la production, j'ai installé le feeder de Bondtech. Résultat -> j'ai mis moitié moins de temps que prévu ^^
  4. 1 point
    So I've been using my UMO+ for about a month, and since day one I have seen what looks like skipped layers on my prints, especially when using higher resolutions such as 0.1 mm or better. The skipped layer is always around the same height, at ~12 mm. Sometimes there are two skipped layers. I wanted to share my experience and solution on the issue. Hopefully this posting adds to all the other postings on topic rather than being a repeat, and maybe it will help someone else with a similar situation. After some research, I narrowed the skipped layer issue down to the Z linear bearings. When I built the system, the bearings were crunchy and sticky in several places along the bed travel, as many others have noted. There was an especially bad sticky area right around the 12 mm height zone. I tried all the recommended fixes: realignment of the bearings (no change), wiping the oil from the shafts (no change), light oil on the shafts (not recommended, and it got worse), and degreasing the bearings and shafts in place (slight improvement). As a last resort I detached the bearings from the platform, and even with no load on them, they were sticky in several places. I degreased them further and there was minimal change. I even flipped the shafts to rule out a shaft problem. I tried everything I could to make the OEM bearings work better, but no luck. Since I had already ordered and received replacement bearings from Misumi (part no. LHFSW12, 40USD for two shipped in the US), I gave up on the originals and tried the Misumis. What a difference! The bearings glide smoothly on the shafts with no sticking. Now I am happy! The OEM bearings were OK when held horizontally, but terrible when held vertically as they are installed in the printer. Orientation of the shafts with the Misumi bearings made no difference. The Misumi bearings are a drop-in replacement using the existing screws. Here are some before and after pictures at various layer heights for the 3DHubs Marvin test object. I used the standard Cura settings for Low, Normal, High and Ulti-quality, except that I changed in-fill to 10%. The material is 3D Universe Grape PLA, 210°C nozzle/60°C bed. Before (with OEM Z bearings): Note that there is a skipped layer on the 0.1 mm and smaller prints. The skipped layer is at about the same height on each print. After (with Misumi Z bearings). Note: I should have leveled the bed after the bearing change, so my first layers on the first three prints weren't very good. For the 0.04 mm print, I leveled the bed: The skipped layer is completely gone on all prints. Here is the OEM bearing (left) and Misumi replacement (right) for reference: As a result of this work, I highly recommend the Misumi replacement Z bearings. I wish that Ultimaker had used higher quality bearings in the kit, since this appears to be a fairly common complaint. Both of my bearings were faulty, so I don't think this is a random occurrence. Best Regards to the Community.
  5. 1 point
    I took the heat sensor cable off the head and the metal sleeve was loose. Could this be the problem or do you know if they can they work like that? I finally noticed that you're the one deserving my thanks! So thank you for your help!
  6. 1 point
    The part that confuses me @zurichch it's that you say 1.5.7 board, if you have UMO+ you have a 2.1.X board Also, I would just try to open old cura 15.xx and flash with that firmware. If it doesn't connect I think I did read long ago an user that had that problem and fixed it by turning off/on until cura did connect to the printer. Also you tell on what OS you did this, for example if it's mac I would try to reset the PRAM before trying again. Also, I don't think you really need to update umo+ firmware to use the calibration of cura, you can skip that. Edit.. Ok you have a UMO with a Bed kit, not a UMO+ the part you say "I did with the Ultimaker Origianl + firmware" did confuse me. Can you try to flash with the old cura and the UMO with Bed kit firmware? (not umo+)
  7. 1 point
    So far it works, I don't have much nasty filaments (that could stick to the nozzle) but as soon I finish the design I'll do a carbonfill test (it always makes a big chunk of goo on the nozzle after 1h) that should be a decent test. The first test I did was printing one of my keychains (something I have printed easily over and over 500 times) with faber pink. For this filament/temp I always had to go 222-225 to get a gloss finish, anything below made the finish matte (something quite handy sometimes) but it was something that always did bother me since on umo+ hotend I was able to print at 210 with gloss effect). So first test was at 215C and the print did had a nice and cool gloss effect on the big top flat layers. So my early theory it's that having the nozzle cover with this helps to keep a more uniform heat all around, so the filament exists 'hotter' than without the socket. It's too early to open the champange but I'm quite surprised and happy by this sideeffect.
  8. 1 point
    Pour le PLA, avec le plateau chauffant je suis d'accord avec Darkdvd: rien: juste une plaque propre et dégraissée, à 60°. Pour l'ABS: j'aurais bien aimé utiliser les sprays, mais rendu dans mon pays, ils sont hors de prix... Donc Jus d'ABS (petits morceaux d'ABS dissous dans de l'acétone pour faire une sorte d'aquarelle, pas trop épais...) + Grand brim (au moins 20 tours) Pour les ventilos: Pas de ventilo pour l'ABS, et un caisson est bienvenu. Pour le PLA: le réglage par défaut de Cura n'active les ventilos qu'à la seconde couche. le brim éventuel (pour les pièces avec une faible surface de contact avec le bed) est aussi imprimé sans ventilo. Il n'y a finalement que pour le CPE ou le PET que j'utilise de la colle. Il faut la mouiller pour que ça marche bien: tu badigeonnes avec le stick puis tu passes une éponge bien humide avec de l'eau chaude pour tartiner un peu comme si tu peignais le verre à la gouache... Enfin, voilà mon expérience perso...
  9. 1 point
    Des photos je ne peux rien dire n'ayant pas d'UMO+ mais par contre, ta phrase est en sous-extrusion de français...
  10. 1 point
    As someone who lives in a very small appartment in Paris, the feature I'd like the most is a silent printer. I already have an UMO+ and an UM2+. The noise level difference between those two printers is very big as the UMO+'s plywood frame amplifies the noise, but I think there is still room for improvement in terms of making the printer a little bit more quiet. A top and front cover would help a lot, but I'd go for the motor drivers/mechanical parts upgrade, as that's the only way to improve that. But, however, I don't think this is a priority. Better printing quality (dual extrusion for PVA support) and reliability are the most important things at this moment, and I guess Ultimaker is ulti-focused on those two things.
  11. 1 point
    Le saint graal de l'adhésion !!! Je le mélange 50/50 avec de l'eau et je tartine au rouleau. Pas un décollage et je travaille à 90% l'ABS.
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