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  1. 13 points
    How can the very latest, cutting-edge design software combine with a 5,000 year old manufacturing technique to deliver outstanding weight reduction opportunities? Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts upon the energy usage of the product during it’s service life. Lighter products mean less fuel to move them around, which can make our fossil fuel reserves go further, or make more efficient use of the renewable energies that we’re now beginning to adopt. Generative Design (GD) is the very latest design software released by Autodesk and is now included in Fusion 360, which is at the heart of their "Future of Making Things" strategy for Design and Manufacturing. It changes the way we design things and can deliver very efficient designs that deliver structural performance with optimised use of material. The aerospace industry is expected to be one of the early adopters of this technology because in that industry the cost and environmental savings from improved fuel efficiency carry the greatest rewards. Also, I see interest from the automotive industry for the same fuel efficiency reasons, but in the long term the drive for lighter weight parts could benefit many industries, even those outside of transportation. Another example of the benefits of lighter weight alongside reduced material usage is that shipping costs for parts reduce as their weight reduces, which can therefore also deliver cost efficiencies. GD is targeted initially at metal parts where the biggest opportunity for light-weighting exists. The complex forms it generates though often means that parts conceived in this way cannot be made with conventional manufacturing routes. They therefore need to use Additive Manufacturing (AM) techniques to produce them. The route of using high energy, laser-based AM to do this comes with associated high costs because of the specialised set-up knowledge required together with expensive processing, and post processing, to deliver a quality-assured part. This project explores the possibility of a more cost-effective route to a metal GD part which, even though at this stage may be just used for a small quantity of evaluation prototypes, can act as an enabler for understanding the potential that GD has to offer. This is the baseline design for this project. It is an aluminium bracket design similar to those used in aerospace applications to mount control surfaces, and in this form has not been optimised for weight. This design would weigh 383 grams in the intended material, aluminium A356. After processing this through Generative Design in Fusion 360 it’s time to review and evaluate the many alternative design options presented and decide upon the design that is considered the most appropriate taking into the other factors that have an influence on design selection such as manufacturability, aesthetics etc. This was the design option chosen for this part and Fusion 360 was used to create the final version of the model. The bio-mimicry that’s evident in most of the designs created by GD is interesting to see, in this case the design of the part can be seen as essentially a swept I-beam (which engineers, especially those in construction, are taught is a strong section), but with tendon-like attachments back to the mounting points to carry the tensile loading that’s created by the applied loading conditions What GD does is to turn the standard design workflow that we’re familiar with on it’s head. Traditionally we design a part and then stress test it virtually to determine if it fulfils the required structural performance. Any failures seen during this process require an iterative loop back to the design to correct them. With GD the stress analysis is a core part of the design synthesis, and happens as the part design iterates, which means that the output at the end should meet the requirements of the intended loading requirements. The software is searching for an optimal solution where the stress is ideally evenly distributed across the part as can be seen above. To prove that everything is good with the finalised design this part has then been virtually tested again in Fusion 360 to confirm that the original loading requirements are still met So we've created our lightweight part design, and maybe now we need to produce that in aluminium A356 to do some physical testing, but don’t want the expense of using a metal AM process. What follows is a way of achieving this where FDM 3D printing can play a role as an “enabler” to help create the final parts in conjunction with a very old (if not ancient) manufacturing technique called investment casting. This technique is 5,000 years old according to Wikipedia. The company involved with casting this project is Sylatech who have been using Ultimaker 3D printers as part of their process for investment casting of prototype parts Sylatech took the .stl file of this model and used it to create a 3D print of the part on an Ultimaker 3 in PLA. This PLA part was then used as the pattern in the investment casting process where it is submerged in plaster under vacuum conditions to ensure that all air is excluded from the mould and creates an accurate reproduction of the surfaces of the part. The picture below shows a display box which demonstrates the set up of the 3D printed parts partially encased in plaster. Once the plaster has hardened the casting box is put into a furnace at very high temperature in order to burn out the PLA, leaving behind a cavity into which molten aluminium can be cast. After solidification of the metal, and cooling of the mould, the plaster is broken away from the parts, and then they can be quickly and easily removed from the material feed gate resulting in these aluminium A356 versions of the PLA original. The final part weighs 122 grams which is a weight saving of 68% over the original baseline part, which shows the potential that GD has to make significant reductions in weight and material usage. Using this method we now we have an excellent quality physical part made very quickly in the final intended material in order to commence some physical testing.This is a different route to get to that physical test part in metal at a fraction of the cost of having it metal additively manufactured. It also shows how a brand new, cutting edge piece of software that only became available in May 2018 can combine with FDM 3D printing (which many people still see as a new technology even though it’s been around for over 20 years) and a 5,000 year old manufacturing technique to deliver potentially huge benefits in weight and material usage. Using the investment casting route in this case study is why I chose the title for this article, and shows that we can effectively go “Back To (Deliver) The Future”. Do you see the need for lighter weight parts in what you do, and can you see the potential benefits of using Generative Design and this method of producing metal parts? I'd welcome comments, suggestions, and discussion about any aspects of the above article, the next steps that I'm looking at are how this process could scale up to batch production of the parts using 3D printing techniques that could support low volume production quantities
  2. 12 points
    Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  3. 12 points
    A small update, we are doing a lot (A LOT) of testing to optimize every single part, from print time to assembly to tutorial videos. Is quite a lot of work, but so far we are on a really good point print quality. Ofc like any beta testing we found stuff to improve. Right now we have 3 versions and we are testing every single part as much as we can. Basically from the first design to the new we had 5 versions, and atm the last 3 versions are under stress testing. Also please, if someone has a REALLY difficult print, something that requieres finesse and precision, I would like to print it and test it to see if there's any weak point. Ofc if someone want to share it with me and keep the files form being public that's ok too. I would really like have an architecture file or something really challenging apart of voronoi and very thin walls. Also after talking to @bondtech and we just got 2 ideas that could be really interesting for the guys like us that want as much precision as possible from the extrusion, up to the decimal points of estep calibration for each kind of filament. Very interesting stuff, we will publish more when we have more tests of this ideas.
  4. 10 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  5. 10 points

    Version 1.0

    9,687 downloads

    The original dodecahedral kinetic sculpture by Stijn van der Linden a.k.a. Virtox. Made of five nested dodecahedra, each one is limited to rotate around its own axis. It was printed with dual extrusion on an Ultimaker 3 with water-soluble PVA support material.
  6. 9 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  7. 9 points
    You, sir, are a coward. You rant and rave here, link us to your additional ranting and raving blog...and delete Nallath's well-crafted reply/comment on it. You like to make a lot of noise but can't stomach a response. Grow up.
  8. 8 points

    Version 1.0.0

    42 downloads

    1/40 Mosasaurus Nozzle : 0.4 Layer : 0.06
  9. 8 points
    Big announcement! [German version] [French version] [spanish version] Hold on to your seats. It is not every week I can make an announcement of this magnitude. In a few weeks time Ultimaker will migrate its forum to a new forum software, provided by IPboard. For some it may be a surprise, for others it may be a decision overdue. Nonetheless we are happy and confident that this is the best decision we could make to provide a healthy environment for our community and ensure a bright future. We are aiming to migrate mid-December and do the complete the migration in ~3 days. Some parts of the preparation are still in progress, so the exact date may change (if it would get too close to the holidays, we might decide to do it early January instead). In any case, we wanted to share this prospect with you ahead of time. Make sure to like or follow this topic, so you will be kept up to date about possible changes and there will be no unpleasant surprises. Migrating means there will be a period of time that the forum will unavailable for contributions. In order to migrate all content, we have to close it down, bundle everything and deploy it in our new environment. We are looking into keeping the forum available for searching but no new posts can be made. Or perhaps have a designated chatroom available to bridge this period. Obviously we try to mimic the existing forum as much as possible for a smooth transition, however it is inevitable some things will work and look a little bit different. We’ll do our best to make the introduction as easy as possible. Why IPboard? A little while back I invited some of the most active members of our community and Ultimaker to help test different types of forum software. Among others we tested vBulletin, phpBB, IPboard and we looked into Vanilla and Discourse. After some thorough testing it was pretty clear that IPboard won the comparison with a landslide. Why migrate to a new forum? There are a few different reasons why we think it is a good move to migrate to a new forum. For starters, there have been some bugs haunting the forums which have proven difficult to fix. Some of these bugs have been more intense than others, regardless, they boiled to a point where they (could) harm the user experience significantly. Obviously, that is the last thing anyone would ever want. Secondly, when we moved to our existing forum we had big ambitions to build a collaborative forum where users would gather and ignite projects together. For example, in the user tab you could look for users with certain skill set, to potentially invite to your project and many interesting projects would surface from our community. And indeed some have, the Mark 2 project being one of my favorite community projects. But we don’t feel that vision still matches with our community, with knowledge increasingly becoming more important. The Ultimaker 3D printers becoming more advanced, a better ‘out of the box’ experience will take over a lot of the questions originally asked in our community. At the same time, that is where it gets interesting! After the ‘out of the box’ experience and your first handful of prints, you want to go and explore what you can really do with 3D printing and the Ultimaker ecosystem. And that is where the community shines. We have so many product experts in our community, it is unbelievable. That is also where we want to focus on in the upcoming era, educating our community further. Of course, we need a healthy, cooperative and supporting software environment to do this in, so the migration is step 1. If there is anything you want to learn from us, make sure to let me know! Can be about CAD modeling, post-processing, materials. But more about this, in our new forum As always I’m curious to hear what you think. Make sure to follow this thread so you will be kept up to date when things get more clear further down the road.
  10. 8 points
    Option of a bigger build volume. New silent step control board with more smarts. Closed-loop stepper-motor control with step-loss compensation. Light weight direct drive. 5 extruders, system like the mark 2 with ability to have other attachments other then filament extruders. Enclosed with temp control. Smart filament sensor that can compensate drive slippage, detect run out etc. Failed print camera detection also to detect if head is out of position if a pulley has slipped. Failed print recovery. Auto part removal for production runs. Stiffer bed on ball screws. Light weight stiff gantry. Touch screen with a ton of options for adjusting on the fly or customising printer setup manually. (Options were less on um3 compared to um2 where it should have been more like tinkerware.) Nozzle tip cleaner on material change With ability to set tip clean intervals for single extruder prints. Hot swap spool changer for filament run out. Phone notifications on printer status. Probably missed a few things because I just woke up. And make all this cheap enough so i can afford a print wall .
  11. 7 points

    Version 1.0

    2,890 downloads

    During my spell working in the Art department on 'Avengers Age of Ultron' I was asked by the production designer to build a prop to help dress the interior set of 'Stark Towers' The model was to show the new section of tower that replaced the damaged section from the original film. As I only had 4 weeks to build it (including 3d modelling) we needed to simplify the design a bit, hence the lower portion being in laser cut acrylic. Using my trusty Ultimakers I think I pulled off the desired effect, even if it only appeared in the movie for less than a second!
  12. 7 points
    Hi (architectural) community!, My name is Floris and i own a small business in printing scaled models for both architects and urban designers ( i myself am a urban designer). It started as a hobby/ interest to use the 3D prints in my workfield as an extra or advantage. I am still nowhere near a pro when it comes to knowing the in and outs of 3D printing / cura settings and getting the best result in the least amount of time (thats also the reason i joined this community, to learn). Below are a few of my works, ranging from an entire new neighbourhood to a single high end appartment complex to a few new houses. Currently i am working on 3 scaled models for an architect, i will post the results when they are done. For most of these models i used the following settings in Cura 3.1.0 Ultimaker 3 layer height: 0.2 top/bottem thickness: 1.2 wall thickness: 0.8 infill density : 15-30% printing speed: 20 -50% printing temp. 200 - 215 degrees travel speed: 200mm/s
  13. 7 points
    Hello tout le monde, Je vous présente la mascotte que j'ai modélisé sous ZBrush pour la futur B-Velta, une imprimante de type delta Made in France, qui sera en kickstarter dans les prochains jours. Le gcode du modèle sera intégré directement dans la bécane. La modélisation a été pensée pour que la figurine s'imprime sans supports biensûr Hauteur totale -> 180mm Buse -> 0.6 Hauteur des couches -> 200µm Remplissage -> 20% 2 impressions pour voir la différences des détails : Colorfabb ngen silver metallic et Octofiber Light Wood Pour ceux que ça intéresse, voici le lien de la page de la b-velta -> https://www.facebook.com/BVELTA
  14. 6 points
  15. 6 points
    Hello everyone, I have been away for a while being busy with well, work. However, I never had a chance to brag and show some of my work both from work and personal portfolio. Some from the work portfolio is done by myself, some together or exclusively by interns. In case I have not been clear before, I work as an architect for Sweco Architects at the mother ship in Stockholm Sweden. One of my daily tasks for the past two years was to handle the in-house fablab. So here are some photos of the works we have left around in the office - the really cool models always end up with the client (but what is new?) A little preview from work: Personal Portfolio - I use a lot of parametric design and 3D printing to exercise and build up my own skills in my free time - and also to be able to share with the community developments, therefore not implying a client and or her/his secrecy restrictions. Prints from the community such as ultimaker ad thinginverse:
  16. 6 points
    Hi, I have created this thread to keep an overview on which materials are available through Cura as part of our Material Alliance. We can add a short description of each material so you have at least a basic idea of its properties. Do realize this is a summary, if you want to know specific properties please visit each filament specific technical data sheet. I'll also include a link to each individual thread, in case you want to discuss a material specifically. Questions? Feel free to post them below! This thread will be updated over time. BASF - PET CF. Carbon fiber, high dimensional stability, low moisture absorption, heat-resistant of 74ºC - PP GF30 . Glass fiber (30%), extreme stiffness, chemical resistance. Clariant - Clariant PA6/66 FR. Flame retardant. - Clariant PA6/66 GF20 FR . Glass Fiber (20%), flame retardant. - Clariant Pet-G. Chemical resistance, good layer adhesion, heat-resistant ~80ºC. Colorfabb - Color On Demand, PLA in 100+ RAL colors at 2kg MOQ. - woodFill , 70% PLA and 30% wood provides a wood-like texture DSM - Arnitel ID 2045 . ShoreD 34 hardness, flexible TPC. - Arnitel ID 2060 HT . High performance TPC, high temperature, chemical resistance. - Novamid ID1030 CF10 PA6/66. Carbon fibers (10%). Dupont - Zytel 3D1000FL. Ultralow shrinkage. - Hytrel 3D41000FL, shoreD 60 hardness. Eastman - Amphora AM3300. Low-odor, styrene-free material. ElogioAM - Facilan C8 . 3D print almost without layers, good interlayer bonding. Igus GmbH - Iglidur I150 . Self-lubricating, wear resistant. - Iglidur I180. Self-lubricating, wear resistant. Lehvoss - Luvocom 3F PAHT 9825 NT. Unreinforced PAHT, low warping. Matterhackers - NylonG . Glass fiber (~20%). - NylonX. Carbon fiber (~20%). Owens Corning - XSTRAND GF30 PP . Glass fiber (30%). - XSTRAND GF30 PA6 . Glass fiber (30%).
  17. 6 points
    I decided to take the challenge, and to design a set of people myself. :) However, when it comes to ultrafine details and lots of variation, there is no way we can beat the Preiser models with our FDM-printers and standard 0.4mm nozzles. So I didn't try that. If you want realistic, finely detailed models, the best option is to buy unpainted Preiser sets: this gives you about 100 little people for about 30 euro. Google for: preiser ho figuren Instead, I decided to take a totally different approach and optimise my set for 3D-printing, so it can be printed easily and fast. I designed it in harmony with the cars already shown in the previous contest. Thus my people are a bit abstract and cartoonesque, but they do fit-in well with the cars. They are sort of cardboard-people, "Cardboardians", living in the country New Cardboardia, which is nearby Tsunamia, Quakeland, and Volcanostan. Scale is ca. 1:100, as requested. But by slightly varying this, you would get more variation. The biggest advantage is that these people can be printed on their back, so they print way cleaner than "upright people", and way faster. After printing, they can easily be broken off the support bar which helps making printing easier. They require very little post-processing. They can be printed without warping, and without damaging while removing them, if printed in PLA using my salt method for bonding, I tried it. Other bonding methods should work too, but you may need to be carefull not to damage them when removing them. If you don't want to glue these people to your architectural model, you could glue them on a transparent piece of plastic (mica or similar) of ca. 10mm x 10mm, like Preiser does with most of its painted models. Then you can move them around and recycle them for the next project. The transparent base does not visually hurt. I recommend printing at 0.1mm layer-height, speed 20...25mm/s, and at a low-medium temperature. All can be printed with a standard 0.4mm nozzle, since all legs and arms are wider than 0.4mm. See the photos of upright printed people compared to my cardboardians below. The upright model is not my design, but downloaded from thingiverse, named "Elf girl", designed by Robyn, daughter of "southoz"; if I have all that info correctly. Actually this Elf Girl is a very nice design, and 3D-printing it in scale 1:10 (17mm) does not do justice to it. The red elf girl is printed with 4 together, plus a dummy cooling block of 10mm x 10mm x 20mm, at very low speed (20mm/s) and low temperature (180°C) in PLA. The green one at the left is also printed with 4 together, slow, with dummy block, but at normal temp (210°C). The blobby one is printed standalone at normal temp (210°C), without dummy cooling block, and slow; but it obviously had not enough cooling and is hardly recognisable. And the last Elf Girl is printed single too, slow, but at low temp (180°C). The cardboardians are printed slow (25mm/s) at medium temp (ca. 200°C). You can see that upright printed people look like zombies, where pieces of rotten flesh are coming off (strings and blobs). Or they look like aliens in space suits (not enough cooling). Not like humans. This weirdness might hurt in an architectural model. My cardboardians however, look way more neutral and unobtrusive. Even though the designs are crude and cartoonesque, they come out cleaner when printed. And they are similar to the cars, and to typical vegetation. So there is more harmony in the scene. The set contains several men, women, and kids. Most are unique, but a few of the neutral models have duplicates. (The additional bonus set was my first try, containing 8 identical people and thus not conform the rules, outside of the competition. But since I have it anyway, I can as well share it.) The models are under a Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license: you can use them for free, for whatever purpose, thus also for commercial projects (for example an architectural design for a client, or for publishing on the Ultimaker website). But you can not ask money for the design files: these have to stay free. You may make modifications and derivations too, but if you share them, it also has to be for free under the same license. cardboardians_set.stl cardboardians_bonus.stl Set of cardbordian people, scale ca. 1:100. Bonus set (outside of contest). Beautiful Elf Girl, by Robyn (downloaded from thingiverse), for comparison in print tests. Cardbordians as printed. I removed a couple of thin hairs, but no other post-processing. Elf Girl (printed upright) vs. Cardboardian people (printed on their back). See body text above for more info on printing parameters. Preiser HO-scale people (=1:87, close to 1:100). But they also exist in other scales. In case you need really detailed people, and a huge amound of variation...
  18. 6 points
    What, nothing about the improvements to manual supports and adjustment meshes? It is now much easier to load objects and mark them to be printed as supports, which is useful if Cura does not produce the support you want. You can also prevent support being added in certain places. Here's a slow-to-the-tooth gif that demonstrates the idea (it has been tweaked a bit since the gif was made): Per Model Settings now has a "Mesh Type" setting. It allows you to change a model from just printing as any other model to special functions. These special models don't necessarily push other models away, so that it is easier to create an overlap.
  19. 6 points
    Non c'est bien un raft. les lignes ne sont pas concentriques. Peut être une astuce de possesseur d'UM3 --> ils font un raft en filament soluble et à la fin de l'impression ils mettent l'imprimante toute entière dans l'eau . Comme ça le print se décolle tout seul
  20. 6 points
    Bonjour, Le webinaire sera enregistré dans son intégralité et vous pourrez le visionner par la suite sur notre site https://www.makershop.fr/
  21. 6 points
    At this moment i can say that i did a succesfull transformation of my UM2 Just a little review of the work done. After reading about the magical magnetic changer, i knew i wanted one. My base was a good working UM2 which was converted to the +. Very good and reliable machine. But ofcourse, no second extruder.... As soon as the project was "released", i printed the parts, put the magnets in, and mounted everything with the old UM2 head + feeder. Then i had some problems, the second head was to high. Immediatly i was supported, and got a spacer to print, which i did, after that it theoreticaly worked. But, the old UM2 head + feeder just did't cut it, feeder skipping, bowden blocked, bwaa, ordered an extrusion upgrade kit, and mounted that, what a joy, no more worries with the feed + nozzle. Electricaly, i also ordered the Mark2 board + cables, no mess with cables, and, total control over the fans off the second hotend. The first prints gave me troubles, with out of area messages and stopped prints. Turned out to be a Cura problem. (or at least, i found a workaround for this issue) My final verdict: If you have a UM2, and want a second head (who doesn't?) this is the way to go! Play safe, order the mark2 board, use a original UM2+ extrusion upgrade kit, and good quality magnets. (900grams pulling force, these are some strong magnets!) And, to all the founders, contributors and beta testers, i can't tell you all how happy you guys make me. Support at the right moment, you got me true here. It feels like having an (even better with more possibilies) UM3, but for a much lower price.
  22. 6 points
    Fichier : "en_cas.stl" Buse : 8 mm Filament : "Sauce piquante" Support : oui / jambon blanc / pain nickel
  23. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  24. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  25. 5 points
    ...in the meantime here is a censored bust, just in case anyone was offended, re-touched sculpted scan data and I had no photos of the back so I just left it plain, and chopped the arms of for statue effect. For the life of me this one just wouldn't polish anymore than this I spend ages and loads of compound and cloths to no avail, the copper grain was just too coarse to smoothly polish (a result of a too high current!). It was also a sign to say goodbye to my solution and a highlight that surface quality massively impacts the ability to plate and the final outcome....which actually turned out ok, I wish I could post a few more models which turned out great but they are extremely graphic close ups so theres no way and too many eyebrows would be raised!!.
  26. 5 points
    very happy with my doggy...
  27. 5 points
    As for the flow sensor. We (the Mark2 crowd ) almost finished development for an external flow sensor for the UM2+ including firmware integration. Mechanically it fits to the UM3, but connecting to electronics and ofc firmware integration is a different story ...
  28. 5 points
    It's bigger. 330x245x315mm to be exact. And that volume can be used by BOTH nozzles. No more less volume for dual extrusion prints. It has a flow sensor, that works for jam detection as well. Yes, we spend a shitload of time developing this one. It has been in development even during the UM3 development. As we wanted in the UM3 initially, but we cut it from the release then when it didn't work properly. Solves the 750g spool problem. I think we've gone trough 2 different sensor chip designs, and a whole bunch of mechanical designs before that part was perfect. Then the software when trough a few large iterations as well. This was quite a ride. Touch screen, better late then never. Doors, just improves print quality, especially with high temp materials. But we all already knew this. Expansion port. Next to the spool holder NFC connector there is a mystery connector. Future extension devices can be connected to this. Cannot tell you what we have in the works for this. But hey, the connector is there. Aluminium buildplate. Not all materials where sticking very well to the glass. A proper aluminium build plate works better for some materials. (Available later) Double the theoretical resolution on X/Y by changing the belt pulley sizes. With the heavier construction, this also gave us the plus of having more torque. Internal power supply. No longer the separate power brick. New improved bed, which is stiffer then anything we did before. Grid based leveling. With the large build volume, our 3 point leveling no longer worked properly, as glass and aluminium plates are always a bit warped. (I think this will be backported to the UM3 as well, but don't hold me on that one) It uses the same PrintCores as the UM3, why change something that works great? One thing got removed compared to the UM3, the frame lights are now only white, no longer RGBW. (The RGBW strips are quite expensive in the UM3, and never really used, which I personally think is a shame, but hey, you win some, you lose some)
  29. 5 points
    This is for the users that want to get their Zebra Stripes removed (almost completely) What does it do It fixes the Zebra stripes from the stepper motors that UMO, UM2 and UM3 use (as it today 6 August 2017) Left is WITH the TL-Smooth, Right is WITHOUT. Printed on the same day, same spool, same gcode Before and After installing them. The print test used is the Curve Test by @Valcrow https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print The issue is documented on this post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes On that post you will find that one way to fix it is by doing soldering on the SMD board, a delicate endeavor not for everyone. So a month ago googling I found this TL-Smooth chips that are being sold on a aliexpress shop, bough them and test them. So far it's been a week since I installed them and I don't see any issue after using the printer that has them for the whole week. Does that mean that is safe? No. Any mod ofc might have side effects, and since isn't a UM product, who knows. But IMHO it works nice and doesn't have side effects (that I can see so far). If I find any I'll update this post ofc. The guy that found that this kind if circuits fixes the Decay-something that makes the problem, was this guy http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html The china guys sell it without mention the guy that made all the hard work, but also he never did sell them or offer them, so is a middle ground grey area, where the users benefit from this knowhow. Ofc the little boards are around 8€ for 4 steppers, so it's quite cheap, and they send it quite nicely (except the cables that they sent me wrong like they show on their aliexpress page, so at least they warn about it). So... What you get when it arrives You get 4 plastic thingys, to put the chip in, they seem to compress with heat, but I didn't tested that since doesn't seem important (or is it?) First thing to do, is to check the wire cables. The seller warns about this, and it's important to do it right. That's why I made this simple video showing the process of rearranging the cables and, ofc, twisting the pairs to avoid electrical noise. How to install them Turn off the machine (doh!) Remove the Power Plug Now, without the power cable in. Turn ON and OFF the machine. This will discharge the capacitators, so there's no residual power on the Board. Turn the printer so you can access the board and remove the cover Now, one by one, unplug the motor from the board, and plug them on the TL-Smooth. To remove the cable, use your nails from the corners and push, don't pull the cables to avoid damaging them: Do it on all your steppers, close the cover, and arrange them so they don't disturb you. Warning I take zero responsibility if anyone gets his board damaged, or if their version doesn't work. I don't sell nor promote this stuff. I just found it, bought it and share my results. Important Warning Triple check the cables are right 'in' and they don't go out when pulling them (gently). If that happens you might have them wrong when you reinserted them. Update Last week found an important issue with torque with this stuff on. I need to debug it when I get time but basically if your printer is at the torque limit (for x/y/e) this will affect the prints. Specially the extruder since it's more sensitive to this. I'll test other TL-Smooth version but probably will just move to a Duet3D board and forget about um2 boards.
  30. 5 points
    How about ditching the perspective view and switching to an axonometric projection, or at least allowing the users to select one or the other? Engineering CAD is rarely, if ever, done in a perspective view, and such a view is not really appropriate for many situations in a slicer application. The distortion that occurs in the viewport because of the perspective is a hindrance to accurate positioning and nesting of parts on the build plate. Additionally, allow the 6 (not just 4) primary side views to be viewed without any perspective. Sometimes it's helpful to see the back and bottom views of a build area.
  31. 5 points
    Finally I have been able to finish my locomotive shed. All files are available on youmagine. Have a look at my website at: https://zoev89.github.io/locloods/index.html
  32. 5 points
    @zerspaner_gerd & @MarcoUbtz Thank you gentlemen, everything is working perfectly now https://www.youmagine.com/designs/flexible-coupler-using-colorfabb-ngen-flex
  33. 5 points
    I'll start with introducing myself, perhaps that would set the proper example ;)I'm Sander van Geelen, the community manager at Ultimaker. Basically, it means I look after you guys. I try to make this a healthy, fun and growing environment where you can even learn something on occasion. You should be able to learn everything about Ultimaker in our community of experts! So if you have any questions or feedback, make sure to reach out to me. You can either tag me (@username) or send me a DM. For Ultimaker I also design our booths for the shows we go to. I've started working for Ultimaker in 2011, from back in the days where we shipped a dozen of Ultimaker Originals per week. Laser cutting the frames and making the drive bolts ourselves. It was an awesome time, times have definitely changed, but Ultimaker has always remained to be awesome! mmmm.. I know things! For example.. 3D printing, and will probably be able to help troubleshoot left and right. On a more personal note, I have a background in illustrating so in my spare time, I still like to draw. And I like gif's.
  34. 5 points
    I now better understand how you people use the direct gcode commands. Still, I don't think Ultimaker will give it high priority since those are all tweaker use cases. When a community member posts a pull-request for a nice solution we could add it. Otherwise you tweakers already have the very powerful command utility described above. There is a slightly faster way to get to the command utility: - On the printer enable the development mode. - Setup a remote connection to the printer with: ssh ultimaker@ - password = ultimaker By loging in like this you directly enter the command utility. Sending gcode: sendgcode How about a web page where you can control the head movements? Sounds like a solution that would cover about 90% of your tweak desires. Technical implementation is easy but I would have to do this in my spare time and designing a nice looking web page is not my thing so I could use some help there...
  35. 5 points
    Discussion is good, and emotional outbursts are bound to show up from time to time whenever there are passionate people involved. I don't consider that a problem; people are pretty well behaved in here as well. But I still think wisdom would be to hold the doomsday predictions until empirical data exists to back them up.
  36. 4 points
    So, after a week or so learning the ins and outs of the S5, I finally pulled the trigger (pressed the button) on my first 24 hour print. It's intended to be a Christmas lamp, and will soon be filled with lights/a bulb. I'll post another pic when it's finnished Modelled in siemens NX and printed at 0.2 with Inofil pro1 white fillament. (tough PLA)
  37. 4 points
    true. I bet he made a lot of people very happy without even knowing! in the meantime i've been repeating my nonsense from yesterday. I was fiddling around with my 'quick' sculpt. and only now i realise im going in circles, and now ive ended up on an old version, because all my new ones looked weird, its annoying. i've filmed me making this from a sphere as usual. but ive lost the history now so cant go back. im just gonna print this rough version and see how it looks.... ....I just remembered the very first thing i printed that i made was a sphere as i couldn't sculpt back then, and it didn't look good, but i felt it was possible....somehow, thats what got me so interested 4 years ago...
  38. 4 points
    Ultimaker Cura 3.5 is ready and its waiting for you! It comes with new features, bug fixes and UX improvements. As always you can download it for free from our website, whether you run Windows, MacOS or Linux. So what does Ultimaker Cura 3.5 have in stock for you? A few of the highlights: Prime tower reliability The prime tower has been subjective to quite some changes and improvements over the last period of time. We strive to make it as space and time efficient as possible while also making it more reliable (i.e., less prone to tipping over). In our latest improvement, a prime tower has 2 sets of walls. The outer wall which is printed by extruder 1 which functions as a purge bin for extruder 2. This makes the prime tower more reliable because there is less layer bonding between different materials. Improved overhang wall processing When overhang walls are detected, they're printed with varying speed and perimeters will not start on an overhang wall. This should result in higher quality overhang surfaces. Material preferences When you often use a similar set of materials, you can now set them as favorites and save yourself some time! They can be quickly accessed in the material selection. Custom support. Inspired by, and similar to the support blocker you can now also create custom support with Ultimaker Cura 3.5. It works just like the blocker, select the area on your model where you want to add custom support using (small) blocks, and voila. Ultimaker Cura settings guide. Very excited about this new guide. In the toolbox you can find a new plugin called 'Cura settings guide'. When it opens you can find all features in Cura and a more descriptive explanation about what it does and how it works. Most of the times accompanied by a visual example. But there is more! User Experience - Hotkeys; quickly toggle through model manipulation tools (generally on your left) using hotkeys. - File menu; 'Save' now saves projects, and 'export' saves models as other file types. - 3MF project files; it's time to say goodbye to '.curaproject' types. Project files now use a 3MF extension instead. - 'Open recent' is added to the menu now too. - Monitor page; not just Cura but also Cura Connect has been updated. The print jobs interface has been improved so there would be less switching between tabs. Slicing enhancements - Initial layer support line distance, users can now configure the density of the first layer of support structures. Allowing you to reduce or increase adhesion to the buildplate and overal strength. - Fan speed override; with this new setting the fan speed can be modified on bridged areas where support is used. Note: this only works when support is enabled. Bug fixes For better stability and performance, we have fixed a variety of bugs in this release. Including excess M109 commands in GCODE, unnecessary travel movements, extra skin wall count, the order of printed models, and many more. For a full rundown of bug fixes, please view the release notes. Last but not least, a big thank you to @smartavionics, @ahoeben, @bagel-orb, Kriechi, MarmaladeForMeat and Cubiq. You are vital to the development and progress of Ultimaker Cura. Also a thank you to everyone who helped us beta test Ultimaker Cura 3.5 Beta. Without you, we wouldn't be able to release the stable version today. Convinced? Download Ultimaker Cura 3.5 right here. Need more information? Here is our blog and here are the release notes. Please let us know what you think below! ?
  39. 4 points
    Hi Folks, I hope you enjoy evaluating the new gyroid infill pattern, it's very fashionable, right now. Just a quick word to alert you that because the infill pattern is, essentially, a mutating sine wave, it is possible to induce resonance in your printer when printing large areas of gyroid infill if the frequency of the head movement matches the resonant frequency of your printer. So, please observe the print head when you print a large area of gyroid infill the first time and if it is moving side to side more than you would expect, slow the print down to stop the print head thrashing around. When I observed it happening, a 10% speed reduction was all that was necessary to stop the resonance. Reducing the density of the infill will also reduce the frequency.
  40. 4 points
    The only reason for us to use boron carbide is that we want to absorb neutrons and boron (the 10 isotope) has very good properties for this. Boron Carbide is a chemically stable reasonably priced ceramic powder with high boron content (four boron atoms and one carbon atom). While a softer material with high boron content would have been preferable, there are no such options in a reasonable price range. Other uses is for example as a grinding powder, which explains why it eats 3D printer nozzles ? That is the basic reason behind the Olsson block and the Olsson Ruby nozzle, summed up in a few sentences ? If you are interested in further reading, we have published much of our work in an open access article: http://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1402-4896/aa694e (Check out the Supplementary Data too for information about the Olsson block and other stuff) There is currently no commercial production of boron carbide filament but there might be in the future. Be ware though, if you even come across it, that boron carbide is one of few materials which is harder than ruby, so it will slowly wear the ruby.
  41. 4 points
    I am Stefania Dinea, an architect who mixes 3D printing, VR, parametric design and blogging daily and I will share some of my 3D printing tips & tricks with you. This series is my overview about the process and my work-around. Please feel free to comment and add. PREVIOUS POST: THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 01 TOPOGRAPHY THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 02 MASSING THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 03 TOLERANCES AND SNUG FIT THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 04 ENTOURAGE THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 05 HIGH RESOLUTION BUILDING FACADES THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 06 INTERIOR DESIGN THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 07 STL EXPORT FROM REVIT THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 08 OPTIMIZE BUILD VOLUME 09 MATERIAL PROFILES In this section I am going to share some of my favorite tips&tricks. It took me over two years to learn that the best material for a printer is the one wearing the manufacturers logo, therefore the best material for an Ultimaker is Ultimaker material. Not only that, but Ultimaker has been nice enough not only to incorporate their own material settings into cura but also some generic settings that may include materials that are not necessarily apart of the Ultimaker family. This scenario allows you to focus on your goal – fast prototyping your idea and not spend to much time and energy on custom settings. However if you are a tinker – cura and the ultimaker machine will allow you to push your imagination into reality – with enough custom settings to break new boundaries. To conclude, when in doubt – go with what works! When handling materials, especially new ones, I do strongly recommend beginning with the recommended settings already found in cura. However, in Architecture I found it most useful to also restrict the type of materials to new adventurers in the field of 3D printing to PLA and PVA (If an UM 3 or higher is available). Personally, I think a UM2 still adds a lot of value to the education side, because it forces a different type of mentality, one that is design altering. Another thing that I like to custom make in cura is tailor my materials, to also include the price, therefore getting a material cost/printed piece and also include the producer and the supplier, so I always know which materials I use with what. First, you begin by downloading the technical data sheet of the material: These are the very useful information such as weight, and also ability to figure out the density of your filament. So, to create a custom new material, you go to Manage Printers> Materials>Create Using the information I already have, it is easy to fill in the info (in this example the cost is fictive) And the result looks something like this: As you can see, when you tweak your materials there are some benefits, not only accurately calculating how much time it needs to complete a job, or how much material, but also it helps prove the point that 3D printing is affordable in terms of material cost. Here are also my general all purpose printing settings (I only use this on UM machines and only when I use PLA) Layer height - 0.2 therefore top bottom thickness should be a multiply of this 0.2*6=1.2 Nozzle 0.4 so wall thickness should be a multiple of that 0.4*3=1.2 I have noticed I can take up the printing speed to 100 mm/s in cases of extreme urgency, which is almost always. I do not prefer to print with brim, but I always want to start my print with a skirt. Till next time. //S
  42. 4 points
    Yeah, I was about to! Our final decision was to turn the current check box in the Preference window into a text box where you can fill in a formatting string, similar to media tagging software. It's not all that hard to use but covers everyone's use cases.
  43. 4 points
    It's a spot where wear and tear can occur on the lever if the filament isn't quite sitting straight on the bearing; it's not super common but we've seen a few cases. I just put the label on the box actually about 5 minutes ago, and you should have the part in a day or two, with tracking information in your email. There's also an update on your support ticket with assembly instructions for installing it in your feeder.
  44. 4 points
    Tout bon! C'est pour une Alouette II au 1/6ème. J'en avait fait une il y a deux ans avec une turbine et j'aide maintenant mon fils (35 ans) à faire la sienne en électrique.
  45. 4 points
    Donc mon conseil du jour: Achetez une MakerBot
  46. 4 points
    La frankenpièce du weekend : mariage entre un retro "moderne" et un support "d'époque". la pièce d'origine, normalement collée au pare-brise le support "old style" la frankenpiece tada ! Et en plus, comme je suis grand, c'est mieux pour moi : je vois la route (plus que l'arrière, mais bon, je ne conduis pas en marche arrière, alors....)
  47. 4 points
    Here it is! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo
  48. 4 points
    L'impression parle d'elle même Je vous souhaite à toutes et à tous d'excellentes fêtes de fin d'années avant l'heure Pour ceux qui le souhaitent, je propose le stl gratuitement et il se trouve ICI
  49. 4 points
    And one of my first very good prints with the tool changer Really nice results, still needed some fine tuning on the calibration but very happy for the moment
  50. 4 points
    Look at the flair of the user you dissed. Look at mine. Look at yours. The etiquette of this board is not like 4chan. The standard here is to comment as if you are face to face. Many of us do meet with each other at conferences and maker faires. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that you would not say "Never made use of Google in your life?" to someone you were talking to for the first time at a conference. Also, user/ultiarjan 's statement, notwithstanding the existence of combination bearings, is correct. The Ultimaker design uses bushings for XY. Combination bearings instead of bushings would be both overkill and a design problem. Given that the movement rod diameter is 8mm, a bearing outer diameter would be ~15mm, rather than the existing bushing outer diameter of 11mm. This would require a redesign of the slider blocks and more clearance inside the case.
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