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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi all, Sorry that this is vaporware, I plan to print it soon. Ivan is my companion robot. He has taken many small and playful steps in his development into a full robot. In this version, Ivan is an industrial robot arm. Here is the GIF animation that I will discuss with you: In this image Ivan is playing "touch the ball", a game in which a red ball is randomly positioned by the OpenSCAD design file for Ivan, then Ivan's motor angles are calculated according to four simple trig expressions that I developed and a touch of algebra as well. These do a good job of positioning Ivan's toolhead close to the ball as you can see. This method is simpler than forward kinematics and easier than inverse kinematics. I think, though, they are a form of forward kinematics. Anyway, that is ball tag. Ivan's big discs contain planetary gear sets, and Ivan's connecting rods are PVC pipe. Ivan looks unstable but he has screw holes from underneath and a large enough wooden platform to keep him in position. The planetary gear sets are key to Ivan's identity. They function as plastic bearings rather than use metal bearings because, you see, Ivan is nearly all plastic. Except for motors, fasteners, and control electronics (and wooden base), Ivan is entirely plastic. The plastic consists of all 3D printed parts except the section joiners which are PVC tubing for strength and reduction of print time. Ivan will be printed in Nylon, which is ideal for gears. Also related to the planetary gear sets is Ivan's history of Gear Toys in open source hardware. Ivan is somewhat popular, mostly I deduce from parents printing Gear Toys for their kids. So the Gear Toys have become a learning sequence from toddler to teen and above into adulthood and I thought a robot arm would be nice. Anyway, that is Ivan. Les
  2. 2 points
    Nous accompagnons un jeune patient dans sa volonté d'apprendre à nager et avons réalisé un proto sans avoir de recul sur le comportement physique du PLA en millieu aquatique ( mer / piscine ) mise à part une lecture de la littérature existante : - PLA milieu marin Aujourd'hui après un an d'utilisation aucunes dégradations significatives n'est constatées sur ce PLA /PHA. Donc ton petit bateau devrait tenir le cap un bon moment
  3. 2 points
    [print=11663][/print] Did this model a week ago. I printed it with the UM2+, and the 3D printed threaded parts came out great. I didn't really want to paint the model, but I wanted it to look more realistic.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    According to Korneel, Cura 2.x is built around extuder 1 is the primary. Today I finished a 2-color print. Then I wanted to print another (single color) model, with the current color in extruder 2. SMART: I set extruder 2 as primary and set about printing. Not smart enough! After some base layers with extruder 2 (My chosen color pla, using AA core, of course), the machine decided to print a brim! Since brim is set to extruder 1, the head moved to a corner, produced a poo from extruder 1, and the decided to carry it and dumping it on my flat print, then making a perfect brim on a lower leverl. Hmm... I guess smarter to leave extruder 1 as the primary.
  6. 1 point
    Thank you again Tomnagel, your baby (the EM3Ex) is really a nice machine. This is my first experience with the 3D Printing technology, it's really rather simple to enter into this new world. To give you an idea see the picture of my first complex project after just few days acquiring the EM3Ex : Really simple to use in single extrusion mode with rather good results. Will work in dual mode when I'll be more habit with all the environment. Next step is to use copperfill and brassfill for RF (Radio Frequency) and Mw (Microwave) environments. Thanks again for the help to all of you. pf
  7. 1 point
    Sorry to bring the post back to life but thinking my TFM might be on its way out still as when it primes before a print it entrusts alot less then it did before and getting really weird issues with prints. How long does a TFM normally last when printing in the 210-230c range I'm now in the 500 hours. Check this post and the next 3-4 post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35497-is-the-ruby-nozzle-for-the-olsson-block-for-sale?page=3#reply-172875 Thanks that helped alot removed the filament and took the nozzle off and slide filament goes in with almost no resistance but when pulling up there is alot of resistance and shining light down the hole and looking in you can see a little black brim between the TFM and the heater block (if thats what you call it?) so I'll give my ultimaker reseller a call tomorrow and hopefully have them in stock.
  8. 1 point
    If you've never gotten "heater error" and if your temperature is able to stay close to the temperature you ask for then there is no need for a more powerful heater. It doesn't matter if it's 200W or 20W. If the head is at 210C while printing and that's the goal temp then it's irrelevant what nozzle size you have. Your heater is good enough.
  9. 1 point
    Bei meinem ebenfalls bei Amazon.de gekauften UM2+ (Verkauf & Versand Amazon.de) fühlte sich iGo3D für Support & Gewährleistung verantwortlich. Konkret: Ich wollte bei iGo3D Ersatzteile selber kaufen, es kam die Frage, ob ich denn keine Garantie mehr hätte. Ich sagte schon, aber halt gekauft bei Amazon, dann wollten sie die Kopie der Amazon Rechnung und danach gabs die Ersatzteile komplett umsonst. Ob das generell so ist oder ob iGo3D hier ne Ausnahme gemacht hat, kann ich nicht sagen. Im Grunde ist iGo3D ja DE/AT/CH Distri, kommt vielleicht daher.. PS: inzwischen dreh die Platte einfach um, bis Ersatz da ist. PS2: Ne neue Platte kostet im schlimmsten Fall 35,00 Euro rum, wäre sonst auch nicht der Weltuntergang, falls sich die Garantiefrage nicht klären lässt..
  10. 1 point
    Humm ... I'll try tomorow morning, tonight it would be too noisy ... I guess this is what I'm trying to do since I asked for this issue. I missed within Cura the "Per model settings" . Thanks for your response.
  11. 1 point
    Hi, Das Video wie Ihr Cura 2.4 so anpasst damit ihr damit Dual Drucken könnt mit eurem UM2. Die Daten dafür könnt ich hier runter laden. Ihr findet die .rar Datei ganz unten auf der Seite. Gruß Marin
  12. 1 point
    @sandervg Seriosly...this forum is, and has been for more than one week, unusable unless you want to read only the most recent posts :( If you can't keep your own software working maybe it's time to bite the bullet and use third-party software proven to work.
  13. 1 point
    This is my latest work, still in progress. RC Stan Tug. [media-thumb=32382] [media-thumb=32383] [media-thumb=32441] [/media-thumb][/media-thumb][/media-thumb]
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