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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Play with it if you like: It is assumed the 0.4mm print core is in slot 1, and the 0.8mm print core is in slot 2 3 thin walls will be replaced with one 0.4mm wall and one 0.8mm wall. 1. Load your model. Select the normal profile (0.1mm layerheight). Select "discard current changes" in the profile menu to be sure everything is set to default. 2. Load a cube. 3. Turn off the option that Cura separates your models 4. Resize and position the cube so that it encloses your model, except for the top of your model (otherwise you can no longer select your model) 5. Select the cube, and on the left side choose "per object settings", make visible the option "infill mesh", and select it. From now on, Cura no longer sees the cube as an object, but as a region where local slicing settings can be applied. 6. in the per object settings a. select the cube to be printed with extruder 2. b. Set line width to 0.8mm c. Set wall line count to 1 7. On the right side, with extruder 1 selected: set top/bottom thickness to 0.1mm 8. On the right side, with extruder 1 selected: set wall thickness to 0.35mm 9. On the right side, with extruder 2 selected: set infill layer thickness to 0.4mm 10. On the right side, with extruder 2 selected: set top/bottom thickness to 0.8mm 11. if you are satisfied, resize the cube so that it fully encloses the top of your model Check the layerview with what is happening. This is not a very good description, but it will get you going.
  2. 2 points
    Cura can already do that, albeit it is not easy. I'm trying to get a "how-to" written, because with some instructions I think everyone can manage. Here in UM HQ we're combining 0.4mm print core with 0.1 layerheight (for the outside) with 0.8mm print core with 0.4 layerheight (for the inside). The result is a beautiful print at more than 50% reduced print time.
  3. 2 points
    Thanks, Baseline, we really try our best to make a smooth process for everybody. I love getting to see the incredible things you and others in the community are creating.
  4. 2 points
    @foehnsturm did you scrap your CoreXY? I'm currently building mine: Oh and I've made this:
  5. 2 points
    A small update, we are doing a lot (A LOT) of testing to optimize every single part, from print time to assembly to tutorial videos. Is quite a lot of work, but so far we are on a really good point print quality. Ofc like any beta testing we found stuff to improve. Right now we have 3 versions and we are testing every single part as much as we can. Basically from the first design to the new we had 5 versions, and atm the last 3 versions are under stress testing. Also please, if someone has a REALLY difficult print, something that requieres finesse and precision, I would like to print it and test it to see if there's any weak point. Ofc if someone want to share it with me and keep the files form being public that's ok too. I would really like have an architecture file or something really challenging apart of voronoi and very thin walls. Also after talking to @bondtech and we just got 2 ideas that could be really interesting for the guys like us that want as much precision as possible from the extrusion, up to the decimal points of estep calibration for each kind of filament. Very interesting stuff, we will publish more when we have more tests of this ideas.
  6. 1 point
    TinkerGnome helped me set up the Marlin build environment. How to do it is out there and published but I wrote down extra details. I don't know if my notes make sense but I thought I would post them here. If you try to repeat this and have any trouble let me know below and I will clarify the instructions as necessary. Get the source code from github and put somewhere on your hard drive. I'm not going to give you a tutorial on github - there's a lot to github features alone - you can simply download the zip but if you plan to edit it's best to install git and clone the project. If you want to submit bug fixes you absolutely have to create your own github account and create a fork, make changes, test changes, push changes to github and then send a pull request. Ultimaker's source code is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin tinkermarlin - a variant which is better is here (although there may be a bug in version 16.12.1): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin First know that the IDE is code::blocks. We need SDL 1.2 and arduino IDE and mingW compiler. Start with mingw compiler: Install arduino compiler from here - version 1.6.10 works but some newer versions won't. Ultimaker uses v1.0.5. Save it into a path with no spaces (not program files which has a space): https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software mingw gcc get here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/mingw/files/ Near the top is a setup.exe file. After it installs it launches the installation manager - at this point nothing useful is installed. Next mark packages mingw32-base and mingw32-gcc-g++ (gnu c++ compiler) to be installed and then menu item "installation" "update catalogue". Wait for this to finish. sdl get here: https://www.libsdl.org/download-1.2.php then get the win32 version near the bottom mingw32 version of sdl - this gets us SDL.h and sdl.dll from the gzip file copy the bin\sdl.dll file into c:\mingw\bin\ and lib\* to c:\mingw\lib\* and \include\SDL folder to c:\mingw\include\ such that there are many .h files named SDL*.h in c:\mingw\include\SDL\ optionally copy SDL.dll to c:\windows so it can be found more easily. If there is already an SDL.dll there don't overwrite it - yikes. codeblocks - you only need codeblocks if you want to create a simulation but you should definitely do this - it allows you to break on a line of code and test so many things! But if you write perfect code everytime then skip codeblocks. http://codeblocks.org I recommend installing this last or at least after mingw or restart it after installing mingw. After codeblocks is installed and started it somehow seems to find mingw. After launching codeblocks I think it asked me for a project file that was in the source tree here: .....\MarlinSimulator\UltiLCD2_Sim.cbp In code::blocks menu click "build" "build". You should get no errors in bottom "build messages" window. Click menu "debug" "start/continue" and it should pop up the simulator and boot. Simulator shows screen and position of x,y,z axis graphically and more. Before starting your program you can add a breakpoint in codeblocks on a particular line of code - right click on the number to the left of your line of code and add a breakpoint. Then click the play button called "debug" (versus the play button titled "run"). When the simulator gets to that line it will pause and you can examine variables (right click and add to watch and see values of variables). building the hex files: you need to launch the mingw64 shell - it looks like a dos window but better. I don't know how to launch that but it came for free with my installation of git gui (from the git website). You build like this - get to the marlin folder and do: ./package.sh But it will fail the first time. You need to set a few things up. edit this package.sh file and add this line below the other arduino_path definitions: ARDUINO_PATH=c:/Arduino (or change to wherever you installed arduino ide - again - no spaces in path allowed!). You should probably double check that this file is in this exact path: c:/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-gcc.exe If not, then you probably need to modify AVR_TOOLS_PATH in marlin/Makefile. I didn't have to modify that. You don't have to do anything with ARDUINO_VERSION unless you are using a version before 1.0.0 in which case you should probably get a newer arduino ide anyway. Also I had to redefine MAKE by adding the following line in package.sh - this is where mingw32 installed for me (/c/ is the equivalent of c:\) MAKE=/c/MinGW/bin/mingw32-make This editing of package.sh may sound confusing but it's really quite simple - basically you are telling package.sh where a few folders are. Once you look at it then you will probably realize how simple it is. And if you screw up it's obvious - it will say "can't find mingw" or something like that.
  7. 1 point
    Why don't juat use any hairspray?? I use the cheapest spain brand and works and keeps working. I have a normal and 'extra' brand. So I use the extra syrong brand for the big jobs and the normal for the fast jobs. To remove the print from the glass I wait to 40C minimum and I put some windowasher that allows me to remove the print without forcing the glass. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/33206-greentec-pla-easy-removal-after-hairspray
  8. 1 point
    Nuked the folder, reinstalled, all fresh and clean. Just finished a print (seems to print a good chunk faster now too!). Once it's done taking a bath, i'll let everyone know how it came out.
  9. 1 point
    I think it is a good move. There are too many patent trolls and too many who think hard work (long hours, years of development and innovation) should be free. Being defensive does not block anybody in and does protect the hard work of the individuals who make things we like to play and work with. I have seen way too many resources that have been offered for free only to be put up for sale elsewhere. Time will tell how it is handled, but I can say I do approve and appreciate the need for it. A little too much jumping up and down about a positive move methinks in a few responses here. And, there is way too much theft in the industry across the board. I was contacted by CGTrader to sell models. When I mentioned one of their models was found on another site for free, I heard nothing back from them. And, I have archived the emails in case someone wants to dispute this. Basically they are either selling free work, or someone bought it and set if free in the wild. What was disturbing was that once this was pointed out, I never heard from them again. We used to get paid for our work but somewhere, too many people decided everything was for free if it was on the internet. A lot of potential to make money, but a lot of risk too.
  10. 1 point
    Hello Erin, Our Superstar from fbrc8 thanks for your support. Everyone I just have to say we couldn't have gotten this far without Erin and her fantastic team at fbrc8. Ultimaker really hit a home run in choosing fbrc8 to be their US partner for service.
  11. 1 point
    I played around with the Smooth Variable Layer Height (SVLH) feature. While it may seem off-topic on the Cura forum, I'd like to state some of my impressions of it here for the Cura developers - so they can do it better: First, its a decent first cut. It does what it says it will do with little effort on by the user (or the app ) But, in my opinion (and I might have missed something), it falls way short in a 'good' implementation: There is no analysis by the app on what parts would benefit from "SVLH", nor any suggestions by the app on what an appropriate layer height would be for any given section. There is no feedback on what you are 'smoothing' the layer height by. It's just a curve to the side with no numbers to tell you the new layer heights. Smoothing is done across the entire X/Y plane. If you object has 'towers' (or you have two objects), one curved and one straight, the smoothing is done on both, regardless. I'll shut up now.
  12. 1 point
    Here are pics. The spider is not my model. Everything else is. This is where to find the spider...cool spider.... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1751722 EDIT!!!: The heart is not my model. It came from embodi.com and this is the link to it. Sheeesh...I should know better, eh? https://www.embodi3d.com/files/file/35-3d-printable-human-heart/ As an aside, I am recycling one of my test dinos for a diorama and is labeled as PLA. Pics: In order of squishiness-Natural is NinjaFlex, black is Ninja SemiFlex and Red is Cheetah.
  13. 1 point
    Greetings, We have reached another major milestone with principal production of the hull bottom section. We couldn't wait to do a quick mockup of most of the bottom section with the drive section.
  14. 1 point
    another way to do this is to print a thin disc, a little wider then your overhang, subtract it from your model and put it in when it reaches the top rim. The disc will be incorporated when the print continues.
  15. 1 point
    put blue tape on top of your printed support, make a pause on the last open layer and put you support piece in and resume. Best is to have your speed dialed down at this point to have a good adhesion to the tape. I did use this method to connect earlier printed links tomake a chain
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