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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/02/2017 in all areas

  1. I did it ...Got my first dual extrusion print. It came out pretty well. I think I have to calibrate the settings it a little bit. There is a lot of extra filament coming out of the second extruder. I don't know how it's called. When the second head will start it's part of the layer there is always coming some filament out of the nozzle and that messes up the print a little, but I'm still satisfied. My power settings at the moment are 125W/170W/80W/80W. I also pre heated the bed first to 60 degrees, before I started the print. Not intentionally, but I figured that when I was slicing up t
    3 points
  2. Bingo! Thanx guys. When i pulled the feeder apart i put the tension screw back wrong (came up from the case). Shhhhhh don't tell anyone...
    1 point
  3. A problem with the second extruder not priming in combination with a raft was fixed on June 1 (CURA-3848 for reference). Looking at the generated layer view it seems this fixes your issue as well. Since it was only fixed yesterday it will be in an upcoming 2.6 release (not sure if that is going to be another beta or the final). Issue #4 was fixed today but since we are in the process of releasing firmware v3.7 it will most likely go in the next release. Since the next release isn't planned yet I can't indicate when it will be available. Update June-8: Issue #4 will be in the v3.7 firmware r
    1 point
  4. If it really IS solder, I have to wonder how on earth it got there. It really, really does look like solder that's been heated long enough to burn off all the flux. No matter. If we assume that whatever it is melts in the nozzle... it would be a reasonable assumption that you could get rid of it with some desoldering wick and either a soldering iron or a heat gun.
    1 point
  5. foehnsturm Thank you for your efforts ... and I wish you a good rest. You and your team have done an excellent job.
    1 point
  6. On the Ultimaker 2 (i.e in UltiGcode) the gcode is volumetric and filament size is set on the printer, just turn it down to 1.75mm, OR change your gcode flavour to RepRap (Volumetric) in your printer settings in Cura and turn on the "Diameter" setting under "Material" and you will be able to set the filament diameter in Cura. So, no need for the "22% flow" hack.
    1 point
  7. Je connaissais pas, jenregistrais juste le gcode.
    1 point
  8. Was original UM PLA coming with the printer. I think I found the problem. I was also thinking of under extrusion. So I checked the feeder. Last week I had a clogged nozzel and the feeder had eaten away a lot of filament. So I had to disassemble the feeder to clean it. Made a little mistake at reassembling. I assembled the housing of the feeder in the way that the screw head of the screw that adjusts the force of the spring was outside the housing. So the force of the spring was very low. I will try again with correct force and report back. Thanks for your help.
    1 point
  9. Oui, tout d'origine (cf Twitter pour des exemples) Le problème du ninjaFlex est que c'est très flexible et donc ça s'étire et ça se compresse fort. il faut rétracter beaucoup avant que ça se rétracte réellement dans la buse, et puis après avoir rétracté il faut pousser beaucoup pour obtenir à nouveau de la pression dans le bowden. Il faut donc un feeder au top (type BondTech) et des réglages aux petits oignons pour rétracter un peu correctement avec un bowden. C'est pour ça que je suis intéressé par un système d'extrusion directe comme le #GudoZGE. Jamais essayé J'ai un rouleau de Fle
    1 point
  10. Non, je n'ai jamais fait de voronoi, ça ne fait pas partie des choses que j'imprime, mais l'UMO (ainsi que l'UM2) n'est pas une bonne plateforme pour ce genre de chose: le bowden limite l'efficacité de la rétraction et si on n'a pas un feeder de type BondTech derrière on tue le filament. C'est pour moi la grosse limitation sur mes imprimantes, il faut être créatif pour les travaux qui demandent beaucoup de rétraction (tour de purge, ...) Je suis en train de monter un #GudoZGE sur une de mes machines pour faire de l'extrusion directe (voir le sujet qui en parle) La photo de mon post pré
    1 point
  11. Je confirme sur UM2 le ressort ne tient pas avec les teflon TFM pour UM2+ et pour être serin sur la durée de vie une rondelle I2K c'est top. Pour installer un teflon TFM + I2K il faut remplacer le ressort par une "bague" fichier dispo ici c'est le fichier de @darkdvd mis aux bonnes dimension pour les anciennes UM2 (bloc Olson)
    1 point
  12. Hallo allemaal, ik ben aardig opweg denk ik nu. de infill doet ie nu rustigger maar nu doet de printer inderdaad ook het binnen werk VEELLLL te snel net als voorheen de infill. ik laat hem nu even een Y corner printen, niet exakt deze maar een originail/ouderwetse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2120679/#files nu doet ie het binnen werk de massievere wand van de gaten ook te snel. . toch print de printer wel erg mooi vind ik! hij was nu net bezig met de bovenkant van het M10 gat, ik sta er nog steeds versteld van hoe die dat doet! hij werkt er heel rustig naartoe en dan
    1 point
  13. Au vu de la photo, je confirme, ton isolateur est décédé (RIP) et c'est selon moi ce qui explique la formation de bulles : La déformation de l'isolateur n'est pas externe mais interne : une légère cavité se forme à la base de l'isolateur, cavité qui laisse un gap entre le filament et l'isolateur, gap qui est rempli d'air entrainé par les marques laissées par la roue du feeder, isolateur qui chauffe plus avec l'ABS qu'avec le PLA (240°/260° selon ton premier message). L'air que nous respirons contient un certain taux d'humidité et cette humidité forme ces petites bulles en chauffant (vapeur
    1 point
  14. Thanks!! I've actually been looking at other slizers as the placement of objects and slow auto-slizing and startup was a huge bother. Glad you finally put back in a proper object placemnet feature. It's been defunct since v2.* where items goes way out of the printplate. I havn't tested it yet though Adding option to disable auto-slizing and supporting multi-threadding is very nice (why wait so long for this?) Requests You really need to focus some on Material settings! Add a "Material" icon next to the "Print Setup" and "Print Monitor" icons. We really must have (yes, must) more
    1 point
  15. OK, it has been a while with all the printing and experimentation. I am assembling the parts and such for upload, so this would be more of an update. I am hoping to have everything together by this weekend and up for this and the 14" model. And, I am beginning the priming and prepping for final assembly. Currently the model is in 5 Parts. 1) Saucer b. Engineering and Nacelles iii/ Deflector dish Quatro- Bussard Collectors are printed in different color for each Nacelle These parts are all put together within their structures, but separate to facilitate the priming and prepping and pi
    1 point
  16. You can do this with anti overhang meshes.
    1 point
  17. Status update: I mounted the printhead, the ramps and the new extruder on the UMO. But i got a difference between the CAD-modell and the real one which causes a print space lost. I got some realy strange things with the marlin software... but in the end the printer was ready to run. But the e3d V6 / 24V version don't get enough power with the 19V (watched a youtube video in which it runs...) I simply put the orginal UMO heater in the e3d block. Sadly i broke the main part of the printhead at the lower linear- bearing... I glued it temporarily. Redisigned it much tougher, fixe
    1 point
  18. After about 30 tries later, it finally worked! Tried many different wattage values. Current working parameters are: 140/150/75/75 Flickering light is better, but not completely gone, at least it doesn't switch off. First complete print (no calibration yet, only offset values set from @chiz ):
    1 point
  19. Hi! I´m already in touch with @Nallath and shared at the corresponding GIT issue - https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1868 :-) Thanksfor taking care!!
    1 point
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