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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/16/2017 in all areas

  1. I tried the Cura setting for “Shell - Horizontal Expansion”. For a 0.4 mm nozzle size and a layer height of 0.2 mm ("Fast" profile) I guesstimated an offset of -0.2 mm. With this compensation, the InMoov parts now come just right out of the printer; I do not even have to sand them down anymore. Now I just have to grind down all the parts I already have printed in the past weeks, *sigh*. Thanks for pointing me to the "Hoizontal Expansion" setting!
    1 point
  2. Si tu as un faux contact avec les mouvements du plateau tu peux avoir une brève interruption de la connection qui se traduit par une lecture de température aberrante et qui va provoquer l'erreur...
    1 point
  3. No, it is the wrong type, it is made for a thermocouple, not for a RTD (resistance thermometer) like the PT100.
    1 point
  4. Salut @zizon : c'est le même plateau pour les 2 et 2+ J'ai eu ce problème également qui a mystérieusement disparu après avoir refait le câblage côté plateau en coupant l'extrémité des fils et en refaisant proprement le montage de l'ensemble : un petit étamage n'étant pas superflu.
    1 point
  5. Bonne chance a vos 2 projets, que le meilleur gagne !!!
    1 point
  6. Hi, thanks for your reply. Sorry, I have no idea what "the final siE" or "a rule of three" is. If my UM3+ prints with an offset of approximately 0.3 mm on the X and Y axis, can I just enter "-0.3 mm" in the "Horizontal Expansion" setting to get accurately sized prints? I really do not understand why this problem even happens with such an expensive device like the UM3. InMoov is designed to be printed even on cheap 3D printers, and nobody else seems to have to do these hacks, except for very few people with totally uncalibrated DIY 3D printer kits…
    1 point
  7. You can't do a G92 by itself. It matters where the bed is at the moment you do the command. so for example you could do: G0 Z10 G92 Z10.1 That would move the bed so the nozzles is 10mm above the bed but then tell the printer it is actually at position 10.1 such that when it goes to position 0 it will press somewhat into the glass. Or G0 Z10 G92 Z9.9 In this case when it goes to Z0 it would hover .1mm above the glass. Or you can do as you said: G0 Z0 G92 Z.1 Be careful at Z0 as you can hit a clip. This will press more into the glass. G0 Z0 G92 Z-0.1 This will mak
    1 point
  8. Also, a better way to calibrate stuff is to check the final siE, then use a rule of three and apply a negative or positive Horizontal Expansion on cura (hidden option). That should give something more easier to control.
    1 point
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