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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/02/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hi there, I'm Matt and I have been writing about experiments in grayscale printing on the Ultimaker 3. This is a technique created by Tim Kuipers. In a nutshell, grayscale 3D printing allows you to print items in two colors, rather than monochrome. This gives an item enhanced depth, definition, and realism when compared to a monochrome print. Here's an example of what can be achieved: You can read a full article about it here. See all of Tim's designs here. At the time of writing, grayscale printing is not integrated into a stable version of Cura. However, it is possible to preview this feature. Please note: this feature is in a very early experimental stage and only intended for advanced users! 1. Download the CuraEngine backend configured to print in grayscale. 2. Compile the C++ code and run "CuraEngine" directly from the command line. Note: Currently there is no GUI. 3. Download a textured input model: Crushed can (Designed by Beerend Groot) https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/37649-grayscale-can-linear-halftoning Kuipers bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/textured-bust Blockade bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/blockade-textured Connecting rod https://www.youmagine.com/designs/connecting-rod-textured 4. Print! Please share your reactions/trials in this thread!
  2. 1 point
    Every week I’m happy to see how many new visitors register to our forums. I’m always keeping an eye out for their posts to make sure they don’t go unanswered and consider it an opportunity to get to know each other a little bit. Still, there are a lot of new members who go by without getting to know Team Ultimaker, or all the gems in this wonderful community. I want to introduce our new friends in this category, welcoming them to our forums and hopefully it will be a first step in getting to know each other better. Ensuring we can all enjoy our time here. With that said, welcome to the Ultimaker community! Each of you have access now to the countless of experts here and online resources available. Use it wisely A great way to get started is to introduce yourself. We would like to hear from you! Please tell us something about yourself, like; - What 3D printer do you have - What do you (plan to) use it for - What would you like to learn? Since a better world starts with yourself, I’ll go ahead: I’m Sander van Geelen, the community manager at Ultimaker. I have an Ultimaker Original+ and an Ultimaker 2+. I use them mostly for printing objects around the house that broke and I’m in the process of converting illustrations I like to make into 3D models. Finally, what I would like to learn is what you fine folks are up to Without further ado, @pbackx, @ViperJet, @LynG3, @YvesRossignol, @OOZYM, @ppowers, @agentpickle, @Raybo, @energyguyoly, @Orange_42, @SirKri5, @Margarida, @brolman, @nicoddl1, @stuart13, @Kurtenbach, @bioscope, @Sakata3d, @Ermanno … the floor is yours! I’ll also introduce our moderator team (your best friends): @IRobertI, @Didierklein, @Flowalistik, @Gr5, @Neotko, @Nicolinux Oh, finally, some links you might find useful: Online resources Useful links to get started Welcome!
  3. 1 point
    Since you don't have a fancap to redirect the air, I would suggest you use one (printed on greentec-platec or a hightemp material using some high temp aluminum tape can make a fancap that last for a LOOONG time). Then, to isolate even more the air hitting the heater blocks, I use the E3D silicon socks, and cut with an exacto some of the thing, and along the fancap hole and the system, all stays put and doesn't move. Ofc if you take into account the sock design, you could make a fancap that also holds the sock better, but so far no issues. Ofc, they don't last forever, more like 4-5 months tops, and with sticky materials they erode quite fast. But even so, they give me a much more controlled heat on the blocks, specially since my fans give much more air than others.
  4. 1 point
    You don't even have to buy it - just use the PVA solution you get from postprocessing your UM3 prints with PVA.
  5. 1 point
    Whoo... that´s really straigt forward... so assuming, even I can manage it *lol* Thanks!!!
  6. 1 point
    Hi Amedee Yes, printer is running by now. But it's a long way to go. much to correct and modify. The Solex cartridges with 35W are working great, never heated up this fast. BUT there is the Problem - the PID in std FW starts at least 10 degrees before set-temperature. but this is to late. the temperature overshoots by around 27 degrees. then it has to cool down an after some itterations the print starts. same on temperature-changes within the print. These overshoots are the problem for the PID-Autotune. there is a border of 20 degrees deviation before the routine stops itselve. My solution for the moment is to decrease the PID_MAX to 128, then it works fine. And my Powersupply wont break down on 2 heaters and heated bed. Now i could even start a pid-autotune. My solution is like this: - I took the FW from your Builder (Branch). - added the hotend-auto-fan for both extruders - i inverted the extruders because of UM2+ exturders - i inverted the x and z - changed the anoying beeper ;-) - changed teh PID MAX for the hotends to 128 - changed display timeout to 1 minute - forced diaplaying the fan-percentage so I'm close to the build from your builder. only thing left is the fan-kickstart 200ms and 20% min-fan-pwm. I thank all of you so much!!! It's great to know where to go next :-D Next stop: find the right settings in Cura. There is much work waiting, to get the failures out of the above print.
  7. 1 point
    Looks it is on the rails... Sorry for not answering faster, I am out of town these days. Having said that and referring to the github issue you filed, I am very surprised you cannot get your temperature under control with the PID auto-tune. The 3DSolex cartridges do not require any firmware tweaks to work properly.
  8. 1 point
    It is relatively straightforward, just connect to the 'temp' connector, as you can see on this picture: . Be careful, this picture is from my old 1.5.3 board, on recent boards the order of the pins is different (but it is written on the board)
  9. 1 point
    Indeed on Cura it works since they added the per object settings. For s3d they broke it on 4.0. Visually I prefer s3d over cura and for the prints I do Cura can't manage efficiently the multiple settings I need nor the surface finish. But cura is getting better and better very fast. Oddly, when I got into this, I went full tilt with printer, supplies and software. I own S3D as well as downloaded all the others (main ones like slic3r, etc) as well as expanded my creation software and dropped a few others for creative freedom, and found Cura more to my liking. I think it is because of the time I got into it and it just 'fits'. Sorta like back in the day when people gravitated to Freehand or Illustrator based on what they felt was right for them. Both did basically the same thing, but it was more of a personal choice. I am not disappointed with S3D. Do not get me wrong about that. I just, like, ya'know, have a teeny crush the the cute Cura damsel, fer shurrrr, dude...... But as soon as I get this print finished tomorrow evening, I have one using your technique ready to go. It makes me want more infill pattern choices and 3D control of line direction. Yes....I want it ALL!!!!! BWAHAHAHAHahahahaha
  10. 1 point
    Hi to all ! It's not a joke ! I don't own an UM3 but I had the opportunity to disassemble an UM3 print head this spring exist, it serves to keep well in pressure the 2 level switch parts, something goes wrong for the Orange_42 case, the spring went out from it position, For an unknown reason, I think it turned while screwing out through the hole ? it will need to open the top head to reposition it under the condition that there is no level broken parts, Without this spring the level switch would not "switch" perfectely.
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