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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/08/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hello, I'm Marco and am 45 years. I started at Ultimaker in December 2015, so almost 2 years already, as a senior software engineer. At this moment I'm one of the DevOps working on the Firmware of the UM3 and to improve all aspects (software, procedures, little bit hardware ) that come with it. And I'm learning more every day! Having an interest in electronics (automating trains H0, Domotica), gaming (MMOs mostly), listening to music (trying to make some with an electrical guitar), watching movies / reading books (mostly sf) and naturally programming keeps me a busy bee.
  2. 3 points
    An original birthday present, a mold made of the Ultimaker icon and filled with chocolate! Very delicious
  3. 2 points
    If you need plenty of cooling you can also take a look at the centrifugal fanduct by @gudo https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-centrifugal-fans-duct I have used it for 6 months and could not be happier...printed in PLA and no major issues with heat since the part closest to the nozzle is a piece of aluminium sheet from a can. You need to buy new fans though since it uses blower fans and not the ones that comes with the printer.
  4. 1 point
    I don't know if you have had much success since posting this but I also have a UM 2+ and have recently started printing midnight NinjaFlex and have had great results. It gave me a lot of issues at first with the extruder but once I cleaned out my nozzle using the atomic method and rubbed a few drops of sewing machine oil on the first foot of filament it has worked nicely. Once the filament has been inserted they suggest heating your nozzle and allowing the filament to come out before starting any print to make sure it comes out nicely which I also do. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me for more details.
  5. 1 point
    I don't like the way it is explained in the manual, it is a source of trouble... This is what I recommend: Screw the nozzle in the heater bloc, but NOT flush against the heater bloc -- leave approx. a 1mm gap Screw the brass pipe until it reaches the nozzle -- do not apply excessive force as it is fragile Now tight the nozzle against the brass pipe with a wrench. You don't have to over-tighten it, 0.5 Nm should be enough. At the end there still should be a gap between the nozzle and the block, if you are tightening against the bloc you will have leaks! Optional, but recommended: repeat the last operation when the hot-end is at temperature (don't burn yourself!) Your bloc will never leak again after that
  6. 1 point
    Hé, il a "juste" de la sous-extrusion ! Je propose la solution économique, @snow13710 peut peut-être se faire aider...
  7. 1 point
    This is one of the best upgrades I have put on my UMO+ so far...after switching to the UM2 printhead. It just works...without hazzle...and with flexible filaments. I even managed to use up all of the "crappy" Ultimaker filament that came with my printer (the faulty batch that snaps as soon as you look at it)
  8. 1 point
    A little known fact about @ghostkeeper is that he apparently does not need sleep, regularly answering bug reports on github until 2:30 in the morning.
  9. 1 point
    @neotko I am not sure bed size does matter. UMO+ and UM2 have AFAIK the same bed size in in the firmware. I always set the real printable area in the slicer (Which doesn't mean we can't have something in the firmware -- in particular for the Z if you have a really low Z end-stop) X/Y end-stops makes definitely sense, we already have Z... I'll add that to the list (together with temp sensor 'calibration') -- ETA probably not before end September...
  10. 1 point
    hello Forum. I'm having this problem> U3 Stops to print randomly while printing with WIFI, and the printer freezes. does anybody experienced the same problem? Best, Esteban
  11. 1 point
    V4 Version update 24th August The original idea didn't work, but all the Firmware changes (most of them) do work with this (I think final) version V4 that places the Endstop on the bottom. This mod make's you loose 10mm of Z print area, but for me it's worth. You will need this printed part to hold the endstop on the bottom https://www.youmagine.com/designs/new-z-endstop-limit-location-for-calibration-a-la-um2-on-umo'>https://www.youmagine.com/designs/new-z-endstop-limit-location-for-calibration-a-la-um2-on-umo'>https://www.youmagine.com/designs/new-z-endstop-limit-location-for-calibration-a-la-um2-on-umo'>https://www.youmagine.com/designs/new-z-endstop-limit-location-for-calibration-a-la-um2-on-umo Also you will need new firmware with changes: LIST of changes to the firmware to make this work Configuration_adv.h#define X_HOME_RETRACT_MM 7 // Same values UM2 uses#define Y_HOME_RETRACT_MM 7 // Same values UM2 uses#define Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM 7 // Same values UM2 uses Configuration.h#define X_HOME_DIR -1#define Y_HOME_DIR -1#define Z_HOME_DIR 1 ultralcd.cpp// New definitionsstatic void lcd_init_z_adjustment();static void lcd_prepare_info_z();static void lcd_prepare_adjust_z();// At the end of the menu. Edit. The 'prepare menu' static void lcd_prepare_menu() MENU_ITEM(submenu, "Realign Z Offset", lcd_init_z_adjustment);// Content of new definitions/* OFFSET BED ALIGN */static void lcd_init_z_adjustment(){ Config_RetrieveSettings(); // reset to the stored settings add_homeing[Z_AXIS] = 0; // Reset Offset to 0 to prepare adjustments enquecommand_P(PSTR("G28 Z")); // Move to Z bottom endstop menu_action_submenu(lcd_prepare_info_z); // 1 - Show basic info and jump to lcd_prepare_info_z}static void lcd_prepare_info_z(){ enquecommand_P(PSTR("G1 Z30")); // Move to Z to A safe 30mm height This shouldn't hit um2 or umo+ hotend and could be 20 probably lcd_implementation_draw_line(0, PSTR("- Redefine Z 0.00 -")); lcd_implementation_draw_line(1, PSTR("Move the bed until")); lcd_implementation_draw_line(2, PSTR("Kisses the nozzle")); lcd_implementation_draw_line(3, PSTR("- Push to start -")); // wait for Click to continue if (LCD_CLICKED) { // clean screen to continue lcd_implementation_draw_line(0, PSTR("")); lcd_implementation_draw_line(1, PSTR("")); lcd_implementation_draw_line(2, PSTR("")); lcd_implementation_draw_line(3, PSTR("")); lcd_quick_feedback(); menu_action_submenu(lcd_prepare_adjust_z); // 2- Jump to lcd_prepare_adjust_z }}static void lcd_prepare_adjust_z(){ if (encoderPosition != 0) { refresh_cmd_timeout(); current_position[Z_AXIS] += float((int)encoderPosition) * 0.02; encoderPosition = 0; plan_buffer_line(current_position[X_AXIS], current_position[Y_AXIS], current_position[Z_AXIS], current_position[E_AXIS], manual_feedrate[Z_AXIS]/60, active_extruder); lcdDrawUpdate = 1; } if (lcdDrawUpdate) { lcd_implementation_drawedit(PSTR("Z Ooffset"), ftostr31(current_position[Z_AXIS])); lcd_implementation_draw_line(3, PSTR("Push to Continue")); } if (LCD_CLICKED) { // set's current Z position as the 0 add_homeing[Z_AXIS] -= current_position[Z_AXIS]; // store all settings (including the new z-offset) Config_StoreSettings(); // important: tell the printer that we are at z=0 now current_position[Z_AXIS] = 0; plan_set_position(current_position[X_AXIS], current_position[Y_AXIS], current_position[Z_AXIS], current_position[E_AXIS]); // move z down a few mm plan_buffer_line(current_position[X_AXIS], current_position[Y_AXIS], 5.0f, current_position[E_AXIS], homing_feedrate[Z_AXIS]/60, active_extruder); // important: inform the printer about the new position current_position[Z_AXIS] = 5.0f; // return to the previous menu lcd_quick_feedback(); currentMenu = lcd_prepare_menu; encoderPosition = 0; }} ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ OLD IDEA & OLD TEXTS FROM HERE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Been thinking a lot about changing the z endstop to something more like um2, so I could redefine the z offset by firmware instead of hardware, since it's a bit pain in the arse to have to change it manually (yeah I know there are printed parts that allow you to screw up/down the endstop). What do you guys think of this (specially @amedee). By changing the endstop we could have a physical fixed point, but since it's on a non obstructive way, it would allow on umo+ to refit the z offset by firmware without the need of touching the hardware anymore. On a perfect world that could allow to have a calibration UI like um2. Edit: Also umo+ has extra holes (for a second extruder) to fit a printed part that would allow to do this quite easy. EDIT: Idea almost done! Thanks & ! https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22120-idea-new-location-for-z-limit-on-umo?page=1&sort=#reply-153756 EDIT: Adapter to fully secure the new endstop location: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/new-z-endstop-limit-location-for-calibration-a-la-um2-on-umo
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