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Hello tout le monde, Je vous présente la mascotte que j'ai modélisé sous ZBrush pour la futur B-Velta, une imprimante de type delta Made in France, qui sera en kickstarter dans les prochains jours. Le gcode du modèle sera intégré directement dans la bécane. La modélisation a été pensée pour que la figurine s'imprime sans supports biensûr Hauteur totale -> 180mm Buse -> 0.6 Hauteur des couches -> 200µm Remplissage -> 20% 2 impressions pour voir la différences des détails : Colorfabb ngen silver metallic et Octofiber Light Wood Pour ceux que ça intére

détrompe toi le dark thème existe dans beaucoup de soft et lorsque tu travail dans la pénombre ça fatigue bien moins les yeux. Test Ma phrase , c'est: "en plus, ça sert à rien, mais j'ai aussi personnalisé la plaque arrière" j'aurais du ponctuer autrement... et j'ai testé, vu que c'est le dark thème sur ma capture d'écran... avec mon logo sur la plaque de fond! Et: au fait: mon logo est antérieur à celui des "insoumis"... Je dis ça je dis rien...

Hello everyone, I've been using Cura now for the last week or so and have been impressed with it. So much impressed that I thought I would contribute a post-processing plugin that allows for filament changes for multicolor prints. This was originally made for my Prusa i3 MK2S, but I think it will also work with other printers, if the firmware for it supports the M600 G-code command for filament change. Basically you just enter in your layer(s) where filament change is needed, and it will handle the rest. There are some extra parameters for filament retraction amounts. Multiple layers can b

As an avid Ultimaker fan I'll be honest it's not been without it's issues on both 2+ and 3. if you buy a porche you expect expectional service to go with it. I would like to say that for both machines I have had nothing less. although the issues have been received with disbelief but with detailed explanation and demonstrations I always find myself with a resolution. From both Ultimaker direct, importer and authorised seller I have had polite and great communication along with direction, solution and/or replacement parts. So thank you Ultimaker with the customer support. things can

Why would you measure anything if the cad files are on GitHub? Many cad programs let you easily grab the faces of the .step model and save as dxf for example to use in your CNC software.... If you only need dimensions it's also easy to measure accurately in cad. Use f.e. the free fusion360.

I went to see the total solar eclipse last month and my daughter took footage from 4 different gopros and stitched and edited into a really nice video - more about the people than the eclipse - I think she did an excellent job (she has created about 70 videos over the last 3 years so she is getting pretty good - she has 2 other channels). It's a very intense event. Both my daughters cried. It's not what one expects. This is my third total eclipse. We went with 130 other people from the Boston astronomy club (atmob). Anyway eclipse part starts at 3 minutes in - I'm the guy in the yellow s

Which printer do you use? Depending of the printer type, the gcode type has to be set in Cura.

Tiens au fait j'ai imprimé ton dock externe! impec!

Le "dark thème" est présent dans dans tout les softs de modélisation que j'utilise ou ai utilisé Maya, 3dsMax, Zbrush, Blender...... ça ne fait pas mal aux yeux, ça permet d'avoir un bon contraste avec sa modélisation, c'est facile pour faire du keying (remplacer l'image de fond par une autre). D'ailleurs c'est cool qu'il en ai mis un j'approuve à 100% PS : Moi j'avais compris Nano que le truc qui ne servait à rien était le placement de ton logo sur la plaque ^^ Mais c'est cool c'est sur pour les captures d'écran comme ça pas obligé de mettre un petit filigrane par la suite Pour l

That's a very common problem with ABS, I eventually abandoned it in favour of PLA, even though ABS was the better material for the project. Since switching, the delaminating dropped from 50% per print to 0%. PLA is SO much easier to print.

Instead it might just be something is loose with the Z screw and/or Z nut. The Z screw might not be properly connected to the stepper and it may slip. I thought that was impossible but maybe? Or maybe the Z current is too weak? I guess if it's not the heat issue above I would connect the printer to a PC through USB and install pronterface on that machine. I would then direct the bed to move up and down by 1mm, 10mm, and 100mm movements. I would measure how far it moved (maybe a type a ruler to the side of the machine near the bed? and also feel it. See if I could feel something strange.

Well it could be the driver overheating but that usually causes your part to be taller, not shorter but here is an old post below - I would remove the bottom cover, tilt the printer and have a fan blowing some air on the circuitry and then start a new print. Just to see if that helps. If not then ignore this "hot z driver issue" below: Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well unde

Avec la 0.25, on s'éclate aussi !