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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/06/2017 in all areas

  1. Final follow-up: I chqnged the pins as follows: #define Y_STEP_PIN 49 //was 32 // PC5 #define Y_DIR_PIN 47 //was 33 // PC4 #define Y_STOP_PIN 26 // PA4 #define Y_ENABLE_PIN 48 //was 31 // PC6 And it is working perfectly. Thanks so much. Cheers, Greg
    2 points
  2. Je ne comprend pas ta réaction @f5bqp Je te signale que le choix d'IPboard a été fait après consultations de certains membres de la communauté et oui, c'est un bon moyen de supprimer certains bugs en passant sur un moteur de forum fiable et offrant d'autres fonctions. Mais c'est vrai qu'il y a différents types d'utilisateurs : il y a ceux qui pose une question, ceux qui y répondent....et les ronchons.
    2 points
  3. Es gibt ein Update zur Migration. Originalbeitrag hier: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/52169-ultimaker-community-forum-migration
    1 point
  4. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/51752-recovering-a-bricked-um3 this worked for me
    1 point
  5. @bondtech Thanks for running that test! It looks much better than the one I ran using the stock UM2+ feeder. I started seeing pretty severe under extrusion around 80mm/s.
    1 point
  6. So the test Gcode @Mendells provided is tested on our UM2 Extended printer (Upgraded to a 2+) Upgraded with DDG Extruder, PLA material. This printer normally prints black ABS so there are some small streaks of black ABS in the print but it finished ok without any underextrusion. @rebekah_harper this is how our DualDrive technology works: (old movie but still)
    1 point
  7. @rebekah_harper I think the UK Bondtech reseller is Emvio Engineering but they don't offer the upgrade yet. Therefore the best way is probably to buy it from Bondtech directly: http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/extruders/ddg-extruder_ultimaker2_en.html @mendells I currently don't have the time to print your test but I asked Martin and he will print it for you later today :-) Will be uploading the files tonight. Is there a way to upload them to this forum? Regarding the testprints I did. The main focus wasn't really on the speed as with acceleration you may never hit the speeds. I mainly wante
    1 point
  8. Journée de merde... Une page se tourne, je suis triste...:angry:
    1 point
  9. ust to follow up on this : I don't think I was running the right version from GitHub; so between the marlin code version and the arduino version I was running into different issues. I took a step back and -got the latest version of @tinkergnome 's geek_mode branch (17.10.1) -changed a couple of paths: --makefile : ARDUINO_INSTALL_DIR ?= /c/Arduino --package.sh : ARDUINO_PATH=C:/Arduino and now with Arduino 1.8.5 restored to that location (and all the previous configuration as per @gr5 's post I got a successful build of the hex files Thanks again Greg
    1 point
  10. Copperfill it's a filament that heats fast, copper has good thermal conductivity, and since the UM3 cores (3dsolex too) have a steel heatbreak, it should be easy to clog one just by using more than a few retractions. Tunning that material for a hotend like that would need to think of the material as if it where wood or flexible on a full metal hotend. I would start by reducing the retraction amount on the same area and increasing a few mm the minimum print before retraction. That should cut down fast the heat crawling up on the copper filament. Probably also you might need to tune the retracti
    1 point
  11. Copperfill it's a filament that heats fast, copper has good thermal conductivity, and since the UM3 cores (3dsolex too) have a steel heatbreak, it should be easy to clog one just by using more than a few retractions. Tunning that material for a hotend like that would need to think of the material as if it where wood or flexible on a full metal hotend. I would start by reducing the retraction amount on the same area and increasing a few mm the minimum print before retraction. That should cut down fast the heat crawling up on the copper filament. Probably also you might need to tune the retracti
    1 point
  12. Here's another example of using infill meshes - on this bracket I want the infill around the holes to be 99% but the whole bracket doesn't need that much so I have cylindrical shaped infill meshes:
    1 point
  13. Mon dernier bricolage, mon UMO est toujours au top. 8)
    1 point
  14. I just remembered that there were issues with the pictures moving over. Don't recall particulars. Wanted to bring it up in case it hadn't been considered.
    1 point
  15. This is an issue of some debate, the short answer is don't, just change the profile of an existing material and hope this will get fixed in the future. Previously Cura sent all the material profiles to your printer This was disabled by firmware because this could break firmware by setting the printing temperature to something unmanageable, after which people could no longer do an XY calibration print since that uses those temperatures, which by default works fine. Anyway your new material now has a unique ID (UUID aka GUID) that the printer does not know. If you set your printer to devel
    1 point
  16. I too have been having the same issue. By moving the print head and applying pressure to the belt from the side, I'm able to center the belts on the pulleys. It isn't a spacing issue as the pulleys have plenty of room for the belt. As the printer operates, the belt returns to it's grinding position against the side of the motor pulley. Due to the natural return, my guess is that the axes of the two pulleys are out of parallel enough to have the belt walk against the pulley wall. I too would appreciate some guidance on how to correct this issue, as I believe it may be contributing to my sl
    1 point
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