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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/07/2017 in all areas

  1. Sorry for the very late answer, I've been a bit busy lately. First of all: please watch out with placing non-food objects in your microwave. Your microwave works by heating water, but if there is not enough water in the microwave, it can overheat. It is often recommended to place a glass of water in the corner of the microwave to absorb energy. I know this because I've spend some time microwaving stuff for my graduation research (making Graphene) and just for fun . I believe PLA can become brittle because of multiple reasons. - Polymers have relaxed into a certain state, and alignment (cr
    2 points
  2. Hi there. It seems that Cura 3 (and prevous versions) can't handle larger models with UM3. It simply does not fit. I have disabled one of the extruders, changed brim/skirt/raft to none and so on. Problem is that Cura can't place and slice a model of size 200x200x10 (x,y,z). It works if I change the size of the model to 185x185x10. It did not work with 195x195x10. I have tried other versions of Cura and tried other computers with fresh Cura installations, same problem. Stl file is flawless, it is just a slab, nothing more than that. The specification for the UM3 says: Left or right nozz
    1 point
  3. This has been buzzing around in my head. So many suppliers of PLA (et al) don't have a clue what's in their product. Especially if they farm out their filament requirements and product responsibility to China. They talk as if they know, but they don't. It's all sales pitch and sell sell. I imagine Ultimaker do their filament research, but do you actually know what's in the filament you sell? In this case I'm referring to PLA - the poorer person's filament.
    1 point
  4. I just hate pure brass nozzles. Yes, they are cheap. And have great heat transfer properties. However, PLA sticks to brass. Then it burns and leaves black residue on white/natural colored prints. Currently searching for the best 'non-stick' coated nozzle. I've tried ICE coated stainless steel ones from 3dsolex. Coating works great, reduces PLA stickiness by 90% or so. However, quality control is lacking. 0.4mm ICE coated ones have smaller opening diameter than 0.4 brass RSB ones. No measuring needed, visible with naked eye. Could be a bad batch, I don't know. Bought two, not buying again. M
    1 point
  5. You can in Cura 2.3X and up (The versions I have used). Just go into preferences and uncheck "Ensure Models are Kept Apart" in the general settings. It will let you place your models any way you wish. I have found this to be important as, say, you have an "X" shaped object. the bounding box will make a square that nothing can go into the voids of the "X". Unchecking that will allow you maximize your printing area when really stacking parts. But, it makes the user responsible for not overlapping models manually though.
    1 point
  6. I opted to experiment and bought a Creality CR-10 (300 x 300 x 400). They are about what you would expect from a cheap, Chinese 3D printer. Out of the box, once you have done some calibration, they can print very good resolution and large. And if you just want to print with PLA, that's fine. However if you want to get into ABS, PETG or anything else, you're looking at upgrades. Depending on your comfort level, there's a lot you can do. Many build their own enclosures, replace the print head with an E3Dv6, upgrade the extruder to a metal one, add filament run out sensors and auto bed le
    1 point
  7. Ever since the release of Ultimaker Cura 3.0 we have been working hard to continue our innovations and get Ultimaker Cura 3.1 ready for beta testing. We're happy to share which new features and fixes we have in store for you this time! Some of the highlights: Layer view allows you to monitor a simulation of the printing strategy according to your settings in the layer view. Increased speedand faster response times (5-10%) reduce lagging when processing, selecting printers or profiles. Jogging Control your Ultimaker 2+ with on screen controls via USB. A little bit more in-depth:
    1 point
  8. Seems they released a 1.1 Plus TL-Smoother with 8 diodes and (they say) less noise Gonna buy one and test, since so far soon I’ll only have 1 machine with this boards, duet3D for the win! So the product is at http://s.aliexpress.com/ye2quMf2 I will buy today and test when it arrives. Also seem they changed the cable extender.
    1 point
  9. (Traduction du message de @SandervG dans le forum anglais) Bonjour tout le monde, Je voulais partager avec vous les dernières informations par rapport à la migration. Il y a toujours la possibilité que la migration se fasse mi-décembre même si les étapes préparatoires ne sont pas encore totalement finalisées. Donc il est encore un peu tôt pour affirmer et poser une date maintenant. Les étapes techniques sont pratiquement finalisées par notre équipe de dévelopement et par IPboard mais l'algorithme de migration des données, des fichiers attachés et les préférences des utilisateurs est toujours
    1 point
  10. I just ordered 2 over the weekend direct from bondtech and they shipped Monday and arrived today (Wednesday) - very quick delivery and impressed by the build quality As cjs recommended, just get them direct.
    1 point
  11. Figured out the issue (or a fix I should say). It was because 3.1 had no profiles in Preferences | Profiles! So I cleared the old settings by running: rm -rf ~/Library/Application\ Support/cura Then relaunching which forced it to rerun the original setup. This is obviously a major bug upgrading. Did I miss some documentation on this?
    1 point
  12. And you also need the signature file which is: http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/UM3-rootfs-4.1.4.20171204.tar.xz.sig These files can be installed on both the UM3 and UM3 Extended. Instead of downloading these specific versions you can always download the most recent versions: http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/latest.tar.xz http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/latest.tar.xz.sig
    1 point
  13. http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/UM3-rootfs-4.1.4.20171204.tar.xz
    1 point
  14. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/51752-recovering-a-bricked-um3 this worked for me
    1 point
  15. Yeah - I agree. It's really bad. Here are the common causes - this list covers UMO, UM2 and UM3 - #1 is the most common cause of underextrusion. Pay close attention to that first. If it "used to work fine" and you changed nothing (not even slicer settings) then #3 is by far the most common. Yours seems so bad I would suspect a steps/mm setting which could happen if you updated firmware or messed with steps/mm or flow on the printer. For example the UM2+ firmware on a UM2 will do exactly what is shown above. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as
    1 point
  16. You can't do that but the recent versions of Cura (3 onwards?) support relative extrusion for those printers that can use it. It's in the special modes section. The Ultimaker people can confirm this but, unfortunately, I do not think that their printers can cope with relative extrusion so if that's what you have it probably won't help.
    1 point
  17. Under preferences, disable "Ensure models are kept apart", restart Cura, try overlapping models again.
    1 point
  18. Fantastic addition to the layer view !! was one of the main things missing vs S3D imo. Small remark, I think the PLAY button should be placed next to the video slider. IMO the translucent nozzle representation may be smaller, or even just a simple line, to block less of the model. Maybe increase the size of the dot's on the video line to easier "grab" them for manual sliding, maybe check on a high-res display... Also at first glance, probably just because I'm used the the S3D implementation I'm missing a play speed, and continues play for the whole model, but not sure if I'll reall
    1 point
  19. Option of a bigger build volume. New silent step control board with more smarts. Closed-loop stepper-motor control with step-loss compensation. Light weight direct drive. 5 extruders, system like the mark 2 with ability to have other attachments other then filament extruders. Enclosed with temp control. Smart filament sensor that can compensate drive slippage, detect run out etc. Failed print camera detection also to detect if head is out of position if a pulley has slipped. Failed print recovery. Auto part removal for production runs. Stiffer bed on ball screws. Light we
    1 point
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