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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    @lekid, pour ton info et pour ne pas oublier mon cadeau, c'est le 11 mars
  2. 2 points
    Merci pour les explications du nouveau forum C'est cool ce calendrier pour voir les events On peut même voir les anniversaires des membres (ainsi que leurs âges ^^) On va bien continuer à le faire vivre comme avant je pense qu'il n'y aura pas de soucis là dessus
  3. 1 point
    Have a look HERE All 3D files are available and you can get the dimensions you require.
  4. 1 point
    Et ben non, le lien "edit" disparait lorsque l'on revient sur le Forum. Du coup, impossible de corriger une erreur après coup.
  5. 1 point
    Cool! Many Thanks guys. I'll follow you suggestions since it's worth a try! What type of core should I buy? The hardcore pro one? Does it reach 360°C?
  6. 1 point
    If I wanted to print PEEK or ULTEM the first thing I would do is buy a used UMO with glass (heated) bed (and possibly throw away the heater and keep the glass and metal frame bed). I would move the motors to the outside of the frame so they don't get hot - extremely easy to do on a UMO - no hardware needed - no drilling needed. I would cover the two sides. I would get an all metal hot end such as E3D (but realize all metal hot ends are not good for PLA so this is a high temp only printer). I would buy an AC bed heater.
  7. 1 point
    How did, who prints Ultem on UM2, solve the bed adhesion issue?
  8. 1 point
    That I would not be sure about. I would have to research to find out....But you would still have the buildplate issues.
  9. 1 point
    Heat will be the issue as the UM3 does not have the build plate temp or the nozzle temp, even with hardened nozzles.
  10. 1 point
    What do I need in order to print Ultem with my UM3? Would the special 3d Solex nozzle suit? Is the diameter an issue? As far as I know Ultem is sold only in 1.75mm spools
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    btw, forgot to mention. Your setup looks super-clean
  13. 1 point
    You made my day! This setting was activated on my MacBook for the Thunderbold Ethernet interface. After disabling it, Cura no longer crashes. Thanks for pointing this out!
  14. 1 point
    Hi Sanders, I'm new to 3d printing. I bought an Ultimaker 3 a month ago and I was able to download some interesting figures from the previous forum. Now the new one is more graphic than the previous one but I can not download the printed figures files. Any suggestions on this? Greetings and congratulations for the change Daniel
  15. 1 point
    Beside the problem with the power supply, i encountered 2 other issues that caused crashes. 1: when using the old printhead from the um2 (not+), the gap between the 2 nozzles is to big (Z offset), and you have to print a spacer. 2: put some x and y start figures (mine are at 40), to avoid unwanted head moves, outside the printarea, with fysical crashes as result.
  16. 1 point
    I've never had a problem like this with any other version, and I'm confused. The splash screen will come up, and goes through all of the normal "loading this and that" stuff, but after "loading interface" the splash screen just disappears and the program does not run. Nothing in the Windows Task Manager to indicate that it's running, nothing in the Event Viewer logs, and if there's any kind of crash log from Cura itself I can't seem to find it. I do still have 3.0.4 installed, but it's in a different folder on a different hard drive. I always leave the last version installed until I'm sure the newest one is going to work right. This has never caused any conflicts in the past. Windows 10 Professional 1709 (16299.64), i7-4790, 16GB RAM, nVidia 1050 Ti, if any of that matters.
  17. 1 point
    Laut Anleitung kann man im Browser einfach "ultimaker.com" als Adresse angeben, wenn der Rechner mit dem (temporären) Hotspot verbunden ist. Die IP-Adresse des Druckers sollte auch gehen, ich bin aber nicht sicher, ob die am Drucker angezeigt wird. Damit sollte man auf die Konfigurationsseite gelangen (die vom Drucker bereitgestellt wird).
  18. 1 point
    Hi Folks, Congratulation with a new "home" Ultimaker! Much better Thanks. This topic about nozzles is interesting as this is one of the most important little detail of the printer.. As I'm using the original (25W) heater and PT100 sensor from the UM2 standard heath block on a OB with a 0.4mm nozzle. I noted some difference between the old and the new. The feeding speed was not that impressive. -So I used the copper grease on the nozzle thread in order to improve the heath transfer from the heath block to the nozzle. Also filled the two holes in the OB for the heater and the PT100 sensor. Then heated it up step by step, in order to clean off the volatile substances from the grease dripping of the block. Gradually increasing the temperature until 230 deg. Celsius. Also insulated the OB to avoid heath leak. After this treatment, the whole thing really improved much. I made a feeder test (the cylinder) and started printing at 205 deg. C. When the temp decreased 1 deg. C. during the printing, I increased the temp one more deg. C. At the very end of this print the heat block temp was 207 deg. Celsius. I'm using a standard UM2 feeder, belt geared 1:2, -but the BIG difference here is that I'm driving the filament on the inside of the looped filament. NOT on the outside of the filament as Ultimaker do it -and this little difference make a BIG reduction of the friction! All filaments with memorized roll up, -will improve feeding when feed from inside the filament loop. This mean to mirror the UM2 feeder and change rotation direction. Thanks. Torgeir
  19. 1 point
    Do you have 'Auto Proxy detection' turned on in your network settings?
  20. 1 point
    Love the working quickreply and the fact that I don't have to wait 30 seconds for a next page! good job!
  21. 1 point
    Thank you, and it has been! ..Luckily there were lessons learned and I had a great team to work with!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Thank you! LOL In all seriousness, I do love this program. I've tried all of the other slicers, including the expensive one, and I always settle back on Cura. I'm really just a little disappointed that I can't try any of the newest features yet, and my 3.0.4 (re)install is still working perfectly, so I'll just be patient with the new release for now.
  24. 1 point
    i just installed 3.1 and am also having this same issue on windows 10. i get a splash screen but the program itself does not appear.
  25. 1 point
    There is no way to edit the non-accessible areas of your bed in the UI, but you can do it by manually editing your configuration files. Go to Help -> Show configuration folder. In the folder that pops up, go to the folder named "definition_changes". In that folder there will be multiple *_settings.inst.cfg files, one named after your printer. Open that in a text editor (notepad will do, don't use word(pad)!). At the end of that file, add a line like this: machine_disallowed_areas = [ [[-120, -105], [-105, -105], [-105, 105], [-120, 105]], [[105, -105], [120, -105], [120, 105], [105, 105]] ] This adds two polygons, one to the left of the bed, one to the right of the bed. In my example, I am assuming your "virtual" bed is 240 x 210 mm, and you want to cut off 15 mm on both sides. Update: values needed adjusting
  26. 1 point
    Hey, I appreciate it :)I will have to look at the netfabb thing that he posted to see how it turned out. That thing was a mess. Sadly, too many people do not know how to model. That thing was a mess. I did do a double check on it and cleaned it just a bit further if you want to re-up the file. The same link works as I just overwrote the previous file. It was a bit of guess work with jutting angles and corners. http://www.kmanstudios.com/Nikon SB-600 Flash Color Filter Adapter (Vivitar 2800)_Fixed.STL
  27. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    I wanted a more integrated solution for mounting a Raspberry Pi Camera on the UM2, so i designed one. I am using a third-party camera module with a 36x36mm board and a M12 lens mount.
  28. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    promo toy for Russian company REC
  29. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    I printed this big UM Robot with the modified Olsson block and the .8mm nozzle. The silver one is the normal robot that most of us print at least once
  30. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    This custom camera loupe is designed by @Valcrow from Redicubricks. It was a perfect fit for our camera team during an upcoming Ultimaker video!
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