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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/05/2018 in all areas

  1. Rien depuis décembre? Plus personne n'imprime ou le sujet à migré ailleurs? Ben on va voir quand même si ça marche toujours ici heing! Donc voici ma dernière production, toujours dans la séries des petites voitures pour circuit au 1/32ème pour aller se tirer la bourre avec les copains Le modèle parce qu'il faut bien définir que qu'on veut imprimer... C'est la dure loi du maker! Vue de dessous après montage ça donne ceci ( PLA couche de 50µm buse 0,4mm). NB : en passant, je galérais avec les supports qui faisaient des surfaces pas terrib
    3 points
  2. Sympa En effet ça fait un moment que je n'ai rien mis ici Dernier projet en date, design de @lekid c'est le Darwin Barcode, imprimé en Polysmooth sur Ultimaker 2+ et lissé avec le Polysher. Le tout est collé sur une plaque de verre de 30cm x 60cm, l'idée c'est de la mettre dans un showroom d'un regroupement dans le milieu de la 3D dont je fais désormais partie (Pole numérique 3D De Liège). Encore une petite impression récente, scan d'une statue du Louvres imprimé en filament StoneFill de FormFutura L'eff
    2 points
  3. Ok, some of you may have seen my other appends in this thread https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/1114-throw-away-your-short-belts-direct-drive/?page=9&_fromLogin=1 , but it's time I had my own thread & stopped hijacking that one! I want the best quality I can get from my UMO, by which I mean round things really should be round, and there should be no ringing/overshoot at sharp corners etc. This requires 3 things; zero backlash in the X & Y drives, the highest possible rigidity, and the lowest friction. Backlash means you get flat-spots in round objects where the
    1 point
  4. PLA sticks to almost everything when it is melted. Particularly to metals like brass and steel. Even when you polish the metal carefully, it becomes a problem. All metal hot ends like the e3dv6 hotend works very poorly with PLA and it gets jammed all the time but it works great for ABS. Teflon (aka PTFE) is great because PLA doesn't stick much to teflon. Doesn't stick at all really. But teflon doesn't do well above 200C - it degrades "quickly" (over many hundreds of hours - maybe 500 hours failure if teflon reaches 250C). When teflon degrades it becomes more soft and more rub
    1 point
  5. This would be a good upgrade but you have to print your own mount.
    1 point
  6. Now that I can produce shorter term prints and long term prints I am getting more done. This is a Mandelbrot I converted from a 2D image I made to work as a heightfield map inot a 3D object using Cura's open image dialogue. Honestly, it is a great way to bring heightfield type of maps in to make geometry based off that. This was the small prototype I made: Then, this is the full size master model. It was printed hollow to allow light to pass through it the way it would through water. But still works from other angles.
    1 point
  7. As good thing, same version 1:32 scale 1 (G) made in two pieces.
    1 point
  8. test failed. 0.03 is too much. 90 flow, 185 temp.
    1 point
  9. Short answer: you can't. Longer answer: If you have a close look at the printhead, you will see that the nozzel is not in the center of the head. It is a couple of mm to the left, originally conceived to leave room for an additional extruder; the non-plus version of the UM2(extended) had additional holes to the right of the nozzle. If you move the bed close to the head, and then manually move the head from left to right, you can see that the head reaches further to the left of the buildplate than to the right of the buildplate.
    1 point
  10. Hi, this has nothing do you with your printer, probably, but is due to the way 3d printers print circles. I.E. they do not draw circles they draw lines and as a result the diameter of a circle will always be smaller. So you have to give your circle a bigger diameter at design. It may take you a couple of goes to get it right but once you have done it a few times you will get a feel for your printer and will know what increase to make. For straight lines you should be able to hit +/- 0.05mm accuracy. I will not guarantee anything better but can normally hit 0.03 or 0.02. As lon
    1 point
  11. oui https://www.ideato3d.be/fr/boutique/ameliorations/bondtech-fr/extrudeur-ddg-pour-ultimaker-2/ Je ne l'ai pas encore testé perso
    1 point
  12. Glad you were able to get the cable changed out. I don't think I've ever seen the printhead PCB board cause the issue, just the printhead cable.
    1 point
  13. Hi gr5, I picked up an ultiboard2 clone from aliexpress, named "v2.1.5" specifically to try out the TMC2100's. The board actually comes with individual micro jumper switches, much like the jumpers on the Ultimaker Original 1.5.7 board, but for each stepper driver! This means that you can install the trinamic drivers with M1 and M2 in off and M3 in on (if I'm reading the first post right). The question is: will this maximum speed of 62mm/s still apply if the jumpers are switched to Full Step mode (m1/m2 off, m3 on)? Or is this speed limit scenario specifically because of the 16 micr
    1 point
  14. Purée: j'écris en anglais sans le savoir!
    1 point
  15. Works fine indeed, i have it on one machine.
    1 point
  16. Le moteur d'origine a 400 STEP, celui de l'UM2+ en a 200 et il tourne dans le sens inverse donc oui, sur une UM2 sous Tinker, c'est possible.
    1 point
  17. I have faced same problem.I am building an ultimaker clone and I received bent axis. I have seen lot of video for straightening a shaft but they all requires some special setup like dial gauge, some propane torch or some sophisticated machine. Now when you have only 04-06 rods to look after, you should not go for purchasing those exotic showcase piece of measuring instruments. So I resolved that I would straighten the rods with my own hands (literally!!) and without any dial gauge to the highest possible resolution of human eyes (Fortunately, I am engineer by the grace of God could
    1 point
  18. My latest sculpt and print. A few errors due to hollow print and no infill but generally came out ok! Will show it after plating it! Should look lovely.
    1 point
  19. My family has a lot of Football fans. American football that is. Especially college football, and even more so if someone is an alumni. So, I made my dad and two uncles football ornament mascots. Yes, I am still catching up. That is why I got two printers: One fer bidness (When I gots it) and one fer personal. These would be the University of Georgia Bulldog, Georgia Tech Buzz (Yellow jackets) and University of Tennessee Smokey. Painted with metallic paints and fingernail polish. Had to do a lot of wet on wet spraying on those first few layers.
    1 point
  20. Wow, that is quite a modification you made there! I'm surprised with the lengths you went to on the motion control, that you are still using the stock print head. Looking through your pictures, it seems like you have inconsistent extrusion and could benefit from some improvements there. Are you running the original extruder drive? I'm still not so convinced that most ringing is caused by the belts. For sure, running the short belts contributes a good bit. But with a direct drive setup and GT2 belts (a big improvement over MXL), I don't think belt stretch is a significa
    1 point
  21. @6maker I am also interested in the details of how your "Dual Balance" system works. How do you achieve the special Z level for the non-active nozzle? Also am I correct in assuming you are using the extra fans to cool the non-active nozzle to avoid oozing?
    1 point
  22. There's an advantage in having the heavy feed-motor + drive system NOT on the print-head, as this makes the head lighter, & the lighter it is, the better it's going to be positioned by the 2 moving 6mm rods. Making the printhead heavier would mean greater amplitude vibrations causing greater errors in positioning the nozzle, more ripples visible on printed sharp corners etc, more overshooting when trying to stop, etc. But this means the motor is separated from the nozzle by whatever is the length of plastic in the clear tube. So that makes for less feed-control when doing thing
    1 point
  23. Yeah i'm aware of that and i'm very carful about the atomic pulls. However, i'm still convinced it's there since the beginning, because when i move the head by hand in one direction (eg. towards the front of the printer) it does not move in "smooth" fashion, but it does so in a series of "jumps" or "waves" - not sure how to describe it. The same happens if i try to pull the head diagonally (equally X and Y) - the head does not follow the hand smoothly along the X=Y, but it tries naturally to follow X-Y zigzag pattern. I think these are the symptoms of the rods being dead. I always thoug
    1 point
  24. There is also a risk of bending the rods by atomic pulls, if you do them too brutally, or by lifting the printer by pulling on the rods. I am not saying that has happened to your printer, it's just as precaution. If you want to use a more gentle atomic pull, try this method: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Instead of pulling brutally, this method uses gentle wiggling and twisting instead, plus much deeper cooling to room temp, before reheating. But no brute force at all. Cleaning results are similar to the standard atomic pull. I should update that manual a b
    1 point
  25. If they are bendt since assembly you could try and contact your reseller and see if they can send you new ones. If you need to buy new ones, also most resellers can get you new ones, the prices I got from my reseller was slighty higher than the prices I got from IGUS, so I ordered new ones from IGUS, also from IGUS you need to tell them the length. That suited me very good, as I'm running direct drive on my Ultimaker and I ordered 16mm longer ones, so they stick out and motors connect. The IGUS ones are found here : http://www.igus.eu/product/?artnr=SWMH-08 their site is a bit diffic
    1 point
  26. Should also add that you get better quality prints as well (at least I do) as it allows PID bed heating instead of "bang bang". For me this got rid of banding completely
    1 point
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