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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/01/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It's probably not possible to find 'perfect' default settings as there are so many different models. As for the increased print time, please compare a constant small layer height for the whole model against using adaptive layers with a larger base layer height (profile) but the smallest layer height the same or even smaller than the constant small one (e.g. 0.06mm for the whole model vs adaptive layers 0.15 with a 0.1 variation). Otherwise it would indeed increase the printing time, because you're limiting your upper limit to 0.06 + 0.1. The idea behind it is not to get lower print times when just enabling it, but get lower printing times with similar visual quality for the detailed parts and courser quality for the straight parts. I agree the UX can be much improved, but my initial development was focused on getting it to work in the first place and not destroy print quality when changing flow rates.
  2. 1 point
    Hi Everyone. I wanted to share a little python script I wrote for making time lapse videos with the onboard camera on the Ultimaker 3. Here is an example from a rather messy print I just did. Get it on GitHub. There's probably a lot of generic webcam tools for doing this already, but this one is nice because it doesn't start taking pictures until the printer begins printing, and it stops once the print is completed. The script requires Python 3 and FFmpeg. Usage $ ./timelapse.py HOST DELAY OUTFILE HOST is the IP address of your Ultimaker 3. You can find this through the menu by going to System > Network > Connection Status. DELAY is the time between snapshots in seconds. You'll probably want to figure this out based on how long your print will take and how long you want the video to be. For example, if I want a 10 second video at 30 fps, that will be 300 frames. If the print will take five hours, then 5 hours / 300 frames = 60 seconds between frames. OUTFILE is the name of the video file you want to make. It will be encoded using H.264 at 30 FPS. You can choose any container format you want, but I recommend either .mkv or .mp4.
  3. 1 point
    setup:- latest version of Cura 3.2.1, win 7 64 bit OS, Marlin Firmware home built printer. When a print completes Cura tells me its printing and still shows the option to abort. why does it not go away and free up the application to start another print or do a reprint the only way to get back to preparing a print is to abort the completed print. forgive me if i'm wrong but abort usually is an option to get you out the poop when things go wrong not to return to an application after a successful print. on another note, I'm finding some idiosyncrasies in Cura which would be nice to see addressed in the next version release. 1. no option to manually control extruder temperature 2. no override for extruder and bed temperature whilst printing, just means we have to abort and screw up a print to adjust temperature before reprinting we need to be careful about plastic waste and saving the planet, western governments have already got their eye on the perceived waste we will create. districts in China have already started to make printer owners licence them so they can prevent the manufacture of illicit parts ie. guns etc. They will end up going down the road of the drones. 3. print order, Cura's slicer will never be able to understand why you would prefer to print at certain areas of the bed and not use its quickest route algorithm. I would set large pieces at the front of the bed and as the Y travel increases the large pieces end up away from the print-head and leave the rear of the table clear for further printing. You have to appreciate that many of us started to build machines before Ultimaker was born, we are talking the early reprap using printrun, pronterface etc. the old applications used to make the settings much more accessible, i'm in a bit of a dilemma as I actually like the simplicity of Cura, i'm getting old and really like to moan. I do take the hump when programmers dictate how mechanical machines should be operated, take the Airbus A320 for example - they insist they know more about the operation of an aircraft than a pilot. it all went horribly wrong when a heavily iced aircraft required more thrust on takeoff to clear the runway only to have the aircraft's computer decide it was not appropriate and throttled back every time the flight crew demanded more thrust. You guys at Ultimaker are always going to come up against old gits who cant use settings they used to have and love.
  4. 1 point
    Make sure to set width and depth to your printer dimensions. I'd choose Marlin
  5. 1 point
    Ça a fonctionné en les plaçant manuellement dans cura (0-0-0) (0-0-3.81) Merci Darkdvd...
  6. 1 point
    Are you sure that this printer has the origin of its coordinate system in the center? That would be very unusual for this kind of printer... What happens if you uncheck "Origin at center" in the machine settings?
  7. 1 point
    Hi folks, I’m new to UltiMaker, but have been using FDM printers for years. I loved the idea of having a camera mounted in the printer for monitoring my builds and to be able to abort if necessary. I was annoyed to discover after buying it last week that it is only when on the network. I didn’t want to mess with routers, IP addresses and firewalls. So I looked at another option to remotely access my home printer when off-site. I’m using TeamViewer (but I’m sure any remote access tool would work). I’ve paired my workstation to my laptop with the programme and use the smartphone app too. Now I can access my home PC and monitor the build from within Cura’s interface. The video quality is great and I love the idea that I can abort directly from Cura. I’d imagine that this only works when printing across the network and not off the USB key. Hopefully others will find this quick-cheat useful. Shane
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for your response. I can appreciate the complexity of adding this functionality. Good to know that it's at least in consideration . . .
  9. 1 point
    I'm not sure when we fixed this bug, but we did fix some issues that look similar to this. I expect that it will be fixed with the next firmware release.
  10. 1 point
    Bonjour Ulix et bienvenue sur le forum, Tu trouveras une liste des revendeurs belge ici: https://ultimaker.com/en/resellers Sinon si jamais je fais partie de ces revendeurs et je peux obtenir toutes les pièces de rechange pour les Ultimaker. Ces pièces ne sont pas sur mon site actuellement, je n'ajoutes les pièces de rechange dessus qu'a la demande (imagine le nombre de pièces détachées qu'il y a). Donc si ça te dit: www.ideato3d.be, tu m'envoies un mail avec ce que tu veux et je m'en occupe.
  11. 1 point
    I'm biased and like 3D Universe but all of these places (except probably amazon) definitely have good customer support and dedicated people who know the machine somewhat but at some point if you want even better advice you should come to this forum. Sorry we were away last week - we had great fun. I am familiar with the staff at all of these places (except amazon) and they are nice people who have experience with all kinds of issues with UM printers.
  12. 1 point
    Merci darkdvd ! Grâce à toi, j'ai pu remonter correctement mon feeder. La tête de la vis de réglage apparaît maintenant par le trou de réglage, ce qui n'était pas le cas auparavant... Je lance une impression et je reviens vous dire.
  13. 1 point
    yes. Well here is what I think is a more precise explanation for leveling on both UM2 and UM3. The calibration card has a thickness. Say it's 0.15mm (not 100% sure). when you level with this the firmware is assuming the nozzle is this distance from the glass (0.15mm or whatever the thickness is). At this point the printer realizes that the nozzle and the glass are 0.15mm apart so it stores this calibration information such that forever in the future if you tell the printer to go to Z=0.15mm it will go to this location. If you tell the printer to go to Z=0 it should hopefully touch the glass. Typically the bottom layer thickness is 0.27mm meaning the printer sets Z=0.27mm while printing the bottom layer and it also extrudes just the right amount of material to fit that gap. I prefer to level the printer without the calibration card (although then I tweak the 3 screws again when it starts printing) such that when you tell the printer to go to z=0.27mm it actually prints about 0.12mm between glass and nozzle. This squishes the bottom layer extra hard. Alternatively changing bottom layer height in cura to 0.1mm seems to work very well also.
  14. 1 point
    Daid has found the explanation: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21651-um2-huge-blob-grinding-at-end-of-print/?do=findComment&comment=202239
  15. 1 point
    And don't forget more testing, as these changes are pretty "deep" into the code. So those changes could impact a large number of other features. To be sure it didn't accidentally break some stuff, you need to re-test a whole load of features. So pretty much what Aldo said; Don't assume malice if we didn't build a feature exactly how it should be. We know that it's not perfect. We don't like it either, but there is only so much things that we can do, so it's a constant balancing act. Constantly having the feeling that we need to defend ourselves isn't really helping
  16. 1 point
    Tu as le bed levelling auto sur ton um3 ? Tu peux aussi changer la hauteur de la première couche et la mettre à 0.2 ou moins
  17. 1 point
    Quick test confirms it was "Combing" control. At least for Cura 3.2.1 setting "Combing" to "No Skin" has removed the extrusion between enclosure penetration features, i.e. button openings etc. Whether there will or will not be travel extrusions, not wanted, is known within the first few minutes of starting the print. Will run full print and see what "No Skins" in "Bombing" inadvertently might change...hopefully nil. GR5 thanks a ton....your batting 1000 Gene
  18. 1 point
    Oj00 are you running the most up to date firmware? If not, update it. There's also now a video guide for reseating the print head cable, though you may want to check with your reseller before disassembling anything:
  19. 1 point
    So this is looking more and more like a bug in the 2.6.2 firmware (note it may be there are two different 2.6.2 firmwares and the one with cura 3.2 has the bug and not in cura 3.0). I suggest you install cura 2.5 and install the firmware from that onto your printer. And let us know if that fixes it. Also switching to reprap style gcode instead of ultigcode will fix it but that's not as good a solution.
  20. 1 point
    After turning off Generate Support, you'll need to go into Experimental and choose Tree Support there. I too was getting tree and normal supports.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Oh wait I see. Maybe the changed something on new firmwares (I don’t have a um3 anymore since well, long history) you should be able to move to Griffin and there should be a sendgcode.py the. You can do python sendgcode (or something like that? To run the python, then ince inside sendgcode program you just send gcode directly to the marlin like a pronterface
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Try to send other gcodes like G28 Z0 to home Z if the E moves doesn’t do anything is probably because it has a minimum temperature protection. If um3 marlin allows it you should be able to send a M302 to allow Extruder movement when the tools are below 170C
  25. 1 point
    For my UM2+ - Firmware 2.6.2 and Cura 3.2.1 the following steps worked: Configure Cura (Preferences - Configure Cura - Printers - Machine Settings - End Gcode) to add the following -4- lines of text: ;Comment to stop blob and grinding ;Comment to stop blob and grinding ;Comment to stop blob and grinding ;Comment to stop blob and grinding See also discussions:
  26. 1 point
    You need to enable dev mode and access the machine using ssh root@yourprinterIP and the password is ultimaker then using sendgcode you can send the gcode you want like “sendgcode G1 E10 F300” (where E is 10mm and F300 is the speed Ofc the hard part is to change the esteps of the um3 since editing the json file can very easily Brick the printer if one comma or dot is misplaced
  27. 1 point
    Ok, mais la, tu imprimes du PLA et le PLA est un filament qui doit être refroidi et avec une enceinte fermée, il doit faire trop chaud et du coup, le PLA continue à travailler. Le 0.06 n'a d'intérêt que sur les surfaces courbes ou sur les impressions vraiment très détaillées ou imprimées avec une buse de 0.25 par exemple....
  28. 1 point
    Thanks for the suggestions. @smartavionics had the right idea - set wall count to 1. I have updated the discussion on Github.
  29. 1 point
    Je sais que le Tg d'un TPU n'est pas facilement mesurable mais quand même ! - 10° ! Autant ne rien mettre.
  30. 1 point
    I'd like to share the obvious advantages that Adaptive Layer has afforded me in my daily work flow. We are a manufacturer of plastic bottles. Not very sexy, but somebody has to do it . . . On this particular design, Adaptive Layer saved over 30 minutes on a 5 hour 15 minute build compared to without it. At the same time improving the overall look and quality of the finished model. The angular sections (dark blue at 0.10 layer) of the bottle have much finer stair steps per layer and the thread finish of the neck of the bottle has superior detail as well. The benefits are obvious. So again, thanks to the Cura team for this feature. I look forward to continuing improvement and the total integration into the basic application.
  31. 1 point
    The gcode ends abruptly Was send by wifi, or saved on usb? Because maybe the usb wasn't properly ejected. Clearly or Cura failed to write all the file or the file saving process was cut before the ended
  32. 1 point
    2 part, smooth-on type casting urethane will fit the bill. Very liquidy when mixed, like maple syrup (not that fake corn syrup stuff) Hardens in about 10 minutes and turns white after hardening.
  33. 1 point
    My suggestion: temporary re-install the firmware version that came with Cura 2.5
  34. 1 point
    Slice Control to Major Noob...... Ok, so I was doing a lot of prep work and found a mistake I had made while copying and replacing things to make a model work better. I have constructed a simplified version of events so that maybe it will help somebody else stay out of agita and frustration.....This can also serve as a bit of a tutorial on how you can merge models together should you need to for say, something like two color printing. First I constructed a model I wanted to slice. Just a couple of cylinders stacked: Then I check my mesh to make sure it has passed muster for slicing. For this I used the STL check in 3DS MAX. Usually bullet proof. But! Da Clumsy Noob can break anything!!!!! Yup looks ok....now to bring it into slicer. I exported each piece our as handle and disk. This allows me to control each part separately for doing things like alternate infill or two color printing or whatever. Ignore the odd shadows in my Cura viewport. Sometimes they stay as an after image until I restart it. Then I right click and choose "Select all models" Then I right click again and choose "Merge Models". If you have constructed your model properly, it will go together smoothly like so: It will be a bit floatey, but just adjust the numbers in the position type-ins: Then slice and voila!! It is all perf....waaaiiiittttt......... I checked it!! The software said it was ok!! IT MUST BE CURA DAMMIT!!!!!! Wellll....uhhh....no. I ran the STL check again to make sure I did not space out or anything....nope...cognitive abilities are still there.....well, as much as usual..... But this time I poked around and move things and find out that I had accidentally duplicated the disk on bottom. This made a set of coplanar objects. This is very bad. Veddy bad ol' bean! And that is a definite no-no in all aspects of 3D. It can confuse renderers, it can mess with any sort of simulation, it can as we now see, confuse the slicer.....coplanar is just not good. Capisce? Re-export that sucker and just reload the models. They will stay in place...... Slice again and all is well......... So, as the boat sinks slowly in the west and the sun pulls away from our shores, we hear the lonely hoof beats of Da Clumsy Noob ride off into the credits scene and little Timmy says, "Come back noob, come back!!"
  35. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    Recycling your prefered beverage can for improving the printed fan duct life time with any material The central portion of the fan duct below the heat block can now better heat resists by using a beverage can thin and light metal sheet part (0.2mm thick) It's can be easy cutted with a scissor and it's easy formed by a forming printed tools PLA would be used now for printing the fan duct for those prefer this material
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