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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    @KenL The only autoscaling that exists in the latest version of CURA (3.2.1 at this moment) is for autoscaling very small or very large part, ie stuff that is either in mm or meters, since one would be very hard to select and the other would just fill up the viewer and zooming out might not be possible. If those are not checked, then CURA does not do any autoscaling. I've printed plenty of stuff on the diagonal on my UM3E and never have I experienced what you experienced. Based on what you said, I believe you are being tricked by a quirk of CURA that @gr5 tried to explain in his first response: the measurement in the 'Scale' menu are not the measurements of your item, but a measurement of the volume it will occupy on the printing space. CURA is measuring the space that the printed item will occupy using predefinite and absolute X, Y and Z direction that do not vary. For example, if I try to print a wrench horizontally then diagonaly, the measurements by CURA changes, but not the size of my item: It only changes because I have changed the orientation. Cura measures using it's own reference system, irrespective of the orientation of your item, as shown by the big blue, red and green boxes. Thus, of course, if I change the orientation of my item, then the measurements in CURA changes since it doesn't care about orientation, it just measures in a straight line. Basically,CURA makes measures this way: And not this way: Hope it helps you.
  2. 2 points
    /on-topic Another great way to interact with the Cura developers and contributors is via GitHub: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues. Most technical conversations are held over there.
  3. 1 point
    I have seen a few posts about surface quality when using PVA materials. Recently, @SandervG held one of my prints and immediately noticed that the underside of one side was a bit rougher than the other side. I was curious to see if he could elaborate on it as, if I remember correctly, he stated that it could have been due to uneven heating from the buildplate. I thought a bit of info for everybody on what caused this and how to remedy it would be a nice refresher for me, but also good info for all the other people dealing with this.
  4. 1 point
    Personnellement je démonte et je remonte a une température bien plus élevée... genre 160 °. Bon Ok des fois je me brûle... ;-)
  5. 1 point
    Je vais voir avec lui, mais il est débordé en ce moment !
  6. 1 point
    Since you are basically jumping into this feet first, you need a pointy hat in your avatar there @cloakfiend to complete the image of the alchemist you have become
  7. 1 point
    How can a company qualify a software without having the hardware for which it is intended? It's like having an iPhone and validating a Android software!
  8. 1 point
    Ultimaker only sells I think 3 nozzle sizes: .25, .4, .8 (or is it only 2? I haven't really paid much attention). With 3dsolex the most popular nozzle would be the ruby/sapphire nozzles (called "everlast") for printing highly abrasive filaments like glowfill which can eat through a nozzle in just a few hours. Or carbon fill. Or steel fill. There is also a 0.5mm steel nozzle, and a 0.6mm nozzle if you want part way between .4 and .8. Also a 0.15 nozzle. Also a 0.1mm nozzle (yes, really!). Also there is a 1mm nozzle and I think a 1.2 maybe? Plus you can just drill out your own desired nozzle size I suppose if you want a 2.5mm nozzle? Pros: 1) Lots more choices for nozzles. 2) Easy to clean a nozzle or replace a nozzle - if it is clogged just remove it and slap on another one - no down time. You can do the cold pull or other cleaning technique over a gas stove while the printer is printing. 3) Easier to diagnose certain underextrusion issues. Maybe your bowden is highly worn out and has high friction. do a cold pull and remove the nozzle, now you can pass filament through a room temperature hot end and feel if there are problems in the path. 4) The "race" nozzles have better heat conduction (they have two paths inside each nozzle for the liquid filament to flow through) which heats the plastic better and you can print cooler (or faster - but I recommend cooler). This is particularly useful for ABS which has a very narrow printing temperature range. It allows you to keep the nozzle cooler so ABS is less likely to turn into gunk yet hot enough to get good layer adhesion. Cons: 1) Price. If you only will ever need 0.4 and 0.8 and you already have a 0.4 then it's much cheaper to just buy the ultimaker core AA 0.8. 2) The UM cores each know their nozzle size. The 3dsolex comes programmed as one nozzle size so you have to manually set the line width in cura. Or you can manually choose for example the AA 0.8 nozzle in cura. It's an extra step. Plus if you chose AA 0.8 but the printer thinks it has a AA 0.4 then you have to hit "ignore" once. So two extra clicks in life (one in cura, one on the printer). It sounds minor but it can be annoying.
  9. 1 point
    C'est pas tout jeune mais instructif : https://airtripper.com/1338/airtripper-extruder-filament-force-sensor-introduction/
  10. 1 point
    Well, no. Depending on the material it might ooze that much the ooze length is longer than the z offset. And then it leaves that trail on the tower and not on the print itself.
  11. 1 point
    Here is the before and after acetone and the back so you can see where i drilled the holes to fill it up. This is where the transparent filament came in really useful. I could never figure out where all the holes would be as easily as seeing them! Plus the problem of seeing if you were going to drill too deep was eliminated because you can see if you are safe to drill in that area and the best place to fill.
  12. 1 point
    I was not successful with the line width but finally "concentric infill" did the trick. How do I mark the topic as solved?
  13. 1 point
    Difficile à dire: il faudrait le suivre sur toute sa longueur pour savoir...On va dire en effet ± 0.1mm, avec parfois des étirements impromptus à l'enroulage, qui créent des pics dans un sens ou dans l'autre. Honnêtement: quand j'imprime: la différence avec un filament acheté n'est pas flagrante...j'ai même testé avec un filament très étiré, que j'avait considéré comme "raté" et que j'avais la flemme de rebroyer et reextruder, et je n'ai pas eu de grosse sous extrusion sur le modèle que j'ai imprimé, de toutes façons destiné à un usage ne nécesitant pas de grande précision. (une cale pour surélever un projecteur). De toutes façons, le filament que j'extrude n'est pas destiné à des objets de haute précision... et j'ai encore un peu de mal avec le PLA recyclé, à cause de l'humidite qu'il contient ... mais même là: j'ai imprimé des pièces un peu grossières en 0.8.. et ça a marché correctement. J'ai le sentiment que certains d'entre nous sont obsédés pas la précision... Et parfois, ils psychotent un peu.... A mon avis...
  14. 1 point
    @zephirl, It seems like nobody answered your original question. Here's my bit of advice for printing flexible filament: Use a slower print speed. Try 25mm/s Turn off retraction Print at a relatively large layer height, such as 0.2mm You might also try increasing the print head temperature a bit, just to get the material flowing well.
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