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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    @SandervG This is the biggest downside to the new forum... Once you have clicked on the notification icon...all notifications are "marked as read" when you go back to that menu. Yes, they are still there...but you can't see which ones you haven't read.
  2. 1 point
    I am Stefania Dinea, an architect who mixes 3D printing, VR, parametric design and blogging daily and I will share some of my 3D printing tips & tricks with you. This series is my overview about the process and my work-around. Please feel free to comment and add. PREVIOUS POST: THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 01 TOPOGRAPHY THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 02 MASSING THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 03 TOLERANCES AND SNUG FIT 04 ENTOURAGE Basic entourage consists of the following: Human figures in scale, trees and vegetation, and vehicles. So what would be the best approach to this? Especially when you are dealing with a sloped terrain – you also have to remember that super glue is your best friend but it does not always give out the best result in terms of optimal efficient solutions. One of my tips is to place holes in the site (floor in revit) and make little support extensions/pins for your entourage of choice. So how thick should a pin be? Remember the 2 mm min thickness I was talking about? Well that would be it – 2mm in scale in 1:400 + offset of 0.3 mm. So in scale that should look like this: Support system diameter: Support placement diameter: This is how the site looks like after perforation: To do now entourage – one option would be to model in view, another would be to use a family to model specific entourage. One thing you cannot use are the families already included in Revit (unfortunately) specially when it comes to entourage. To look for inspiration, there are multiple options, in terms of sketching, and as I said before, you are only limited y imagination. So to get started you might want to use the following keywords in your google search: people silhouettes and architecture tree sketches and you will find example such as: So pick what suits your own project, your style and maybe you even have your own design. Now to continue with Revit, cut a section through one of the placements spots and insert and image of one of your desired human silhouettes once you have decided on one type and click on model in place. The simplest way to go around things is to just trace and extrude. and it might look bulky due to the scale you are working it – but remember that in the final print it will be quite small and fragile. A perspective preview of the result: I would print this item flat, however the issue is as follows: If you check the top view, my base model might be problematic and my single extrusion is impossible. The solution is to alter the base. If your model seems to thick and chinky, you might consider printing it on the side, and cut it in half. Just look how small it is at scale 100% in Cura - it's a game of spot the model (it's the very small yellow dot in the middle ) (it's that very small yellow dot) However, in scale 1:400 (250 in cura) it will look a lot bigger, not by much though. After the first print with recommended Cura setting for extra fine I discovered that my 0.3 tollerence in Revit was too little. So with these general dimensions in Cura, my print pin was just the exact fit of the diameter whole – therefore inadequate. To avoid going back to Revit and making alterations, I went for a modification in Cura. As follows, by making sure that Uniform scaling is unchecked – in the end, the only thing of importance that needed rescaling was the diameter of the base and not the height. Running a test print and seeing that this tolerance worked I remodeled the initial scalable human silhouette – and took if for another test print. The same principle applies to modelling tress, you can make them as a flat 2D extrusion or a 3D volume. In the image below are two examples: For efficiency reasons I do recommend you model them as a family type, so you can reuse them in multiple projects. And I do recommend you make a parametric family so you can change the level of detail according to scale. But more on that in another blog. For now I will print a little army of trees so my landscape will look something like this: As you will notice in my final prints photos, I am not a patient person, and in this industry is hard to be, as everything is last minute and deliveries have a yesterday deadline on them. No matter how fast the machines are working if it's not instant it is never fast enough. However, please remember the time when everything had to be made by hand and delivery took forever on various materials needed to produce a model – I don't know about you, but I sure don't miss it – not to mention the cost. Nowadays time is generally consumed by 3D modelling – that is why I am a huge fan of BIM – if you have a proper BIM model, adding an extra as a 3D print should take no time at all to adjust, as you will see in the following chapters. Also, how small can you print entourage? NEXT ON THIS SERIES: 05 HIGH RESOLUTION BUILDING FACADES human.stl site for landscape.stl tree1.stl tree-2.stl
  3. 1 point
    Sexy girl for all of you!
  4. 1 point
    Having had some problems myself with PVA as I learned to use it, I found out that you can also get rid of a clogging by letting it heat up for a while, like 30 minutes or something then doing hot pulls. That way, the PVA heats up to the core and melts nicely, and what's sticking to the inside of the core turns to charcoal and comes off more easily when you do some hot pulls afterwards. Worked with PLA clogging as well in my experience. You have to force it until you see the burnt part extrudes some, but the UM3/E is quite resilient so you can apply some muscle without fear of breaking it. If the whole printcore assembly is on the front-right corner as prescribed in the manual. I'm personally wary of the needle method because you can inadvertently damage the nozzle if the needle is a bit too thick or you twist it the wrong way and scratch the inside of the core.
  5. 1 point
    Even though we usually like to be as open as possible, some projects are just not ready yet for the light of day. In those cases, we sometimes set up a closed testing group. The subject of such a testing group can range from hardware, software to materials. Usually, we invite involved members of our community to such a group so we know what level of expertise, knowledge and involvement we can expect. It allows us to make it a valuable element of a carefully shaped test cycle. Clubs are only visible when you have received a specific invitation to join.
  6. 1 point
    Interesting post! I do not have the benefit of your background or experiences but I am a long gone software developer, ranging from assembler to Cobol. Yes old stuff but the fundamentals of software development broadly remain the same, just the tools and audiences change. The more complex one makes a subject, whether necessarily or unnecessarily, the more difficult it becomes to deliver clean code. Probably more importantly the more difficult it becomes to modify and deliver clean changed code. A generalisation would be that new functions work but bugs are introduced to existing code that was clean – it is just too complex to understand all ramifications of change and beyond one’s financial/operational capabilities to test everything that has not changed ( or so your thought!). At the moment I am stuck on Cura 2.7 (which for me works fine) whilst I await a clean version of 3.n. Does 2.7 produce better models than 15.04? For the most part, for me, probably not. But, as you say, there are more options which give you more control and if nothing else should help one overcome problems more easily. So is Cura now more complex than it needs to be? (Anyone from Ultimaker is welcome to shoot me down in flames for any wrong assumptions here). There are some fundamentals. The decision to create the new software (was it Pink Flamingo back then?) would have been driven by a variety of influences. There was a new printer in the labs to support, importantly with dual extruders. There was a new extruder system and coded reels of filament to support. Probably the architecture of the old Cura software did not lend itself to what Ultimaker wanted to do and the decision to throw away the old software was taken. Maybe, above all of this, Ultimaker saw that the market needed to change. It was populated mainly by techies and difficult, without help and that level of technical capability, to produce decent quality results quickly without some considerable experience – the learning curve was quite steep. Ultimaker wanted to move the market to a more plug ‘n play level; just compare laptops now to pre Windows or even early Windows PCs. I cannot remember the last time I reloaded the Windows O/S whereas with W95 it was every 6 months at least. Just consider how much functionality they have added to try and make this goal achievable if you have an Ultimaker 3. So yes the subject is more complex and no doubt so is the code, although hopefully better architected. I for one would not criticise them for this; indeed I applaud them for embarking on such a change. Just think of the increase in productivity if your engineers each had their own printer and with a few key depressions could produce their own prototype there and then, not having to rely on people like ourselves. And whilst there are now all these additional settings to keep the techies happy, their challenge going forward will be to gradually automate everything, remove all those techie settings, so we are all just making a few key depressions!
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    I would store open PVA in a bag or plastic container with silica packs. It's the best way to keep the moisture out. Generally if you can tie a knot in the PVA, you're risking the PVA tying itself in a knot around your feeder. (This photo is from a particularly bad incident.) I keep meaning to make a video showing good PVA and both ways PVA can go bad. Do you have PLA? I generally find bending good PVA feels like bending PLA--you can break it when you bend it, but it doesn't just snap unexpectedly. I wouldn't recommend a file, but if you have a thin needle, you can try inserting that from the underside of the print core when it's hot. It might break up burnt material. Sometimes the hot and cold pulls have to be repeated multiple times to get it clear. The needle can help.
  9. 1 point
    Thank you :) That thing filled the UM3E build volume :) Oddly, that was a design from 2 years ago when I made the decision to go full tilt into 3D printing and it woiked! :) I cannot tell you how many lamps I had designed from that time period but a rough guess would be about 10-15. Of course, some I would not use now, but still....LOL
  10. 1 point
    Do you man the "plus" kit? If so you have to download new firmware afterwards because the "plus" feeder has a different number of steps/mm for the E axis than the non-plus. If you downloaded new firmware it's good to do a "factory reset" which sets all the steps/mm and many other settings back to default for that printer. Anyway, this link shows a good explanation of where not to plug the fan into by erin from fbrc8:
  11. 1 point
    Sorry I didn't see this earlier. If I don't answer you feel free to post simply a "@gr5" once per day until I notice. I check the forums > 5 times per day but the forum is not designed in a way that I notice everything. 70mm/sec X 0.35 X 0.2mm is (if you multiply these 3 numbers) 4.9 cubic mm per second. 4.9 is pushing it. My notes say you can do that at 230C but no way at 205C. So you need to either: reduce layer height to 0.1 reduce speed to 30mm/sec (max for .2 layers, .4 nozzle and 205C print temp increase temp to 230C (and suffer bad overhang quality) You don't have to do all 3! Just one of those. Or you can do a 4th thing - use a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle. I suggest you either relax and live with much slower printing times or use a larger nozzle. Regarding retractions - that's nothing. You should see the amount of retractions when printing the eiffel tower or a voronai vase.
  12. 1 point
    It depends also on your print speed which you do not mention. Your optimum temp. will depend on your printer, your filament, the colour of your filament. And your optimum temp. could easily vary by 5 degrees either way from my optimum. My definition of optimum is the coolest temp. I can print at without under extrusion or any negative impact on the surface quality. With .3mm layers and a .4mmm nozzle at 30mm/s I would be in the region of 195-200 depending on filament
  13. 1 point
    3/4 of a nozzle size is pretty much the upper limit for a layer height. So 0.3 is possible with a 0.4 nozzle. But with thicker layers, you want a larger nozzle size. 0.2mm is our highest layer height for our provided profiles for a 0.4mm nozzle.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks for that feature, it is promising. It would be cool if we could choose the area that we want the tune the precision. Lets say that I'm printing a jig for what ever reason, and the only thing that I care about is a precise hole, wall, floor.. the rest could be shit, It does not matter. Having the option to get that precision on those precise areas would be great. Actually this is pretty much the case in the industrial application that we are planning to use this printer.
  15. 1 point
    J'ai laissé dans une étuve ma bobine (55°C et pendant 24h) et je n'ai plus de problème. Merci pour vos réponse. Je vais maintenant stocker ma bobine dans un contenant fermé avec des absorbeurs d'humidité pour éviter que le problème ne revienne. De plus, point de vue visuel, sur la photo postée sur mon premier message, on peut apercevoir que le PVA à une couleur "jaunâtre". Une fois la bobine seche, le PVA est vraiment blanc. Ceci peut servir potentiellement servir d'indicateur quant à la saturation ou non en eau du PVA. Merci la communauté !
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