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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/24/2018 in all areas

  1. @SandervG This is the biggest downside to the new forum... Once you have clicked on the notification icon...all notifications are "marked as read" when you go back to that menu. Yes, they are still there...but you can't see which ones you haven't read.
    2 points
  2. I am Stefania Dinea, an architect who mixes 3D printing, VR, parametric design and blogging daily and I will share some of my 3D printing tips & tricks with you. This series is my overview about the process and my work-around. Please feel free to comment and add. PREVIOUS POST: THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 01 TOPOGRAPHY THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 02 MASSING THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 03 TOLERANCES AND SNUG FIT 04 ENTOURAGE Basic entourage consists of the following: Human figures in scale, trees and vegetation, and vehicle
    1 point
  3. Sexy girl for all of you!
    1 point
  4. Having had some problems myself with PVA as I learned to use it, I found out that you can also get rid of a clogging by letting it heat up for a while, like 30 minutes or something then doing hot pulls. That way, the PVA heats up to the core and melts nicely, and what's sticking to the inside of the core turns to charcoal and comes off more easily when you do some hot pulls afterwards. Worked with PLA clogging as well in my experience. You have to force it until you see the burnt part extrudes some, but the UM3/E is quite resilient so you can apply some muscle without fear of break
    1 point
  5. Interesting post! I do not have the benefit of your background or experiences but I am a long gone software developer, ranging from assembler to Cobol. Yes old stuff but the fundamentals of software development broadly remain the same, just the tools and audiences change. The more complex one makes a subject, whether necessarily or unnecessarily, the more difficult it becomes to deliver clean code. Probably more importantly the more difficult it becomes to modify and deliver clean changed code. A generalisation would be that new functions work but bugs are introduced to existing c
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. I would store open PVA in a bag or plastic container with silica packs. It's the best way to keep the moisture out. Generally if you can tie a knot in the PVA, you're risking the PVA tying itself in a knot around your feeder. (This photo is from a particularly bad incident.) I keep meaning to make a video showing good PVA and both ways PVA can go bad. Do you have PLA? I generally find bending good PVA feels like bending PLA--you can break it when you bend it, but it doesn't just snap unexpectedly. I wouldn't recommend a file, but if you have a thin needle, you can
    1 point
  8. Thank you :) That thing filled the UM3E build volume :) Oddly, that was a design from 2 years ago when I made the decision to go full tilt into 3D printing and it woiked! :) I cannot tell you how many lamps I had designed from that time period but a rough guess would be about 10-15. Of course, some I would not use now, but still....LOL
    1 point
  9. Do you man the "plus" kit? If so you have to download new firmware afterwards because the "plus" feeder has a different number of steps/mm for the E axis than the non-plus. If you downloaded new firmware it's good to do a "factory reset" which sets all the steps/mm and many other settings back to default for that printer. Anyway, this link shows a good explanation of where not to plug the fan into by erin from fbrc8:
    1 point
  10. Sorry I didn't see this earlier. If I don't answer you feel free to post simply a "@gr5" once per day until I notice. I check the forums > 5 times per day but the forum is not designed in a way that I notice everything. 70mm/sec X 0.35 X 0.2mm is (if you multiply these 3 numbers) 4.9 cubic mm per second. 4.9 is pushing it. My notes say you can do that at 230C but no way at 205C. So you need to either: reduce layer height to 0.1 reduce speed to 30mm/sec (max for .2 layers, .4 nozzle and 205C print temp increase temp to 230C (and suffer bad overhang
    1 point
  11. It depends also on your print speed which you do not mention. Your optimum temp. will depend on your printer, your filament, the colour of your filament. And your optimum temp. could easily vary by 5 degrees either way from my optimum. My definition of optimum is the coolest temp. I can print at without under extrusion or any negative impact on the surface quality. With .3mm layers and a .4mmm nozzle at 30mm/s I would be in the region of 195-200 depending on filament
    1 point
  12. 3/4 of a nozzle size is pretty much the upper limit for a layer height. So 0.3 is possible with a 0.4 nozzle. But with thicker layers, you want a larger nozzle size. 0.2mm is our highest layer height for our provided profiles for a 0.4mm nozzle.
    1 point
  13. Thanks for that feature, it is promising. It would be cool if we could choose the area that we want the tune the precision. Lets say that I'm printing a jig for what ever reason, and the only thing that I care about is a precise hole, wall, floor.. the rest could be shit, It does not matter. Having the option to get that precision on those precise areas would be great. Actually this is pretty much the case in the industrial application that we are planning to use this printer.
    1 point
  14. J'ai laissé dans une étuve ma bobine (55°C et pendant 24h) et je n'ai plus de problème. Merci pour vos réponse. Je vais maintenant stocker ma bobine dans un contenant fermé avec des absorbeurs d'humidité pour éviter que le problème ne revienne. De plus, point de vue visuel, sur la photo postée sur mon premier message, on peut apercevoir que le PVA à une couleur "jaunâtre". Une fois la bobine seche, le PVA est vraiment blanc. Ceci peut servir potentiellement servir d'indicateur quant à la saturation ou non en eau du PVA. Merci la communauté !
    1 point
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