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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    pour éviter le gaspillage de pva et les problèmes liés à ce materiaux je l'imprime uniquement (si possible) en interface de support comme sur la photo. les parties en rouge
  2. 2 points
    Oui c'est la partie la plus fragile du core, c'est faisable, mais il faut être ultra prudent et le faire dans le bon ordre surtout. Sur les hardcores c'est la même partie elle est pas plus épaisse malheureusement. Au début des hardcores il fallait démonter des cores ultimaker pour remonter les parties réutilisées, j'ai du en démonter une trentaine, j'en ai cassé deux je pense. Si tu veux retenter le coup un jour je pose cette vidéo ici: (de notre chère @gr5)
  3. 1 point
    After some trial and error with sizes I think I have come up with what works best for me with building details on the UM3. Attached a couple photos of before and after to show the end result. For vertical extrusions out from the face of the building I use 0.6mm width due to my nozzle size, for internal thin cuts that indent into the model I use 0.4mm width and for horizontal indentations and extrusions I use a height of 0.2mm. Windows I usually cut in 0.5mm with a 0.6mm offset to show the window frames when possible and for the thin elements I extrude or cut in 0.2mm just to show the facade panels details, this 0.2mm just shows enough of a detail to make it readable. Sometimes in the models I can't show all the horizontal elements due to the 0.6mm size but am able to capture enough detail for a solid representation of the facade. This model was in 1:500 scale and took a solid 3 days to print. I am using Form Futura atlas support in a polybox, which has never given me any issues and standard Ultimaker PVA settings. The balconies and verandah were printed separately. Hope this all makes sense. If anyone out there has any tweaks so I can add more detail, I would love to hear it.
  4. 1 point
    Tuning a printer is a big part of the process in any machine like this. Even $5million Heidelberg presses had to be 'fingerprinted' due to the differences in a variety of circumstances. And, people had to man many stations to keep quality up. Even getting settings dialed in can still need adjustments as soon as you change colors, brands or even the environment can change during seasons and that will affect things like A/C being used or heaters or whatnot. I see lots and lots of amazing prints in ABS from UM machines of all makes. I also find it interesting that you considered a machine that produced lesser quality prints to be 'hit=print and ready' while complaining that you have to work a bit to dial stuff in. The thing I find people forget is that once dialed in and understood, it is pretty much a 'hit print and forget' for the most part of any machine well tuned and paid attention to. We just forget that part of the process and expect things to work like our phones and such right out of the box. This will never be the way any physical production machine will operate for quite a while. I do not even see it on the horizon. We can get darned close, but not yet.....
  5. 1 point
    Could you share the logs? It's probably your virus scanner that's messing it up.
  6. 1 point
    Hello All, Here are my .stl files for the competition and this link contains 9 architect designs. Link - https://we.tl/eMce52MSuv Also, kindly find attached the .zip file. I hope you all will like it. Thanks Raghav Architect Designs.zip
  7. 1 point
    Merci de vos réponses. Je vais essayer de la sauver en le remettant dans le four pendant plus longtemps. @michel17 excuse moi mais je n'ai pas bien compris ton message. Tu parles de pva Ultimaker su pva. Il manque un L quelque part mais où.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    I had no issues with printing with Ninja's Flexible products. Here is a test I did last year when I first got my UM3E and was putting every imaginable material through it. The S5 should give similar results. I have not had the chance to test that yet with the Ninja Products yet though, so do not quote me on that specific case. This was done when anything that took too long was not feasible. Now, I print things that take many days, but not then....I wanted it in my hands as fast as possible. This is a small spider I got from Thingiverse to use as a test subject. I shot it with Krylon gold paint to test it and to be able to photograph it. It was printed with a PVA base and what looks like little strings are actually supposed to be the teeny prongs jutting off the legs. But, still not too shabby for a 0.2 mm layer height. First pic is with a US Quarter for size comparison.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Toute est résumé dans cette musique !^^
  13. 1 point
    Allez, ma contribe aux Makers de Nantes !
  14. 1 point
    From what you said, @Flutelab, it feels like you were expecting something that was plug-and-play, or hit-print-and-forget, to be more accurate. I'm afraid that, unfortunately, the technology available to us for 3D printing isn't yet at this level of refinement, and probably won't be until we manage to invent something resembling the replicators in Star Trek which manipulates matter at the atomic level and uses micro-gravitational field as support for things that need it. No matter what brand of printer you buy, or what kind of technology you chose to use, you will always have to fiddle with the settings to achieve the results you're looking for, make test to see with your eyes how the material you're using works in certain situation, and need tools to remove support in some situations. It's a simple fact of the 3D printing technology at the moment. Ultimaker has done a very awesome job creating generic profiles for their materials, but they're generic and thus they'll require fiddling to fit your particular needs. And, so far, I've been very satisfied with their filaments, but I've spent countless hours doing some testing to see how they react in certain situations, the effects of support, dual extrusion and so on, to get the experience and the answers. If you're not ready to spend time before the print, to prepare it, and after the print, to clean it and such, maybe 3D printing is not for you.
  15. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0


    elegant swinging smartphone stand The idea was a smartphone stand, where you have the ability to connect your standard charging cable... ... and then inspiration began to flow...
  16. 1 point

    Version 1.0.0


    Nozzle : 0.4 Layer : 0.06 #dinosaur #giganotosaurus #dino #dinosaurs #figure
  17. 1 point
    Yea, buy other hotend, buy a more powerfull PSU, use custom firmware. After a few months all will work but will print like crap because both hotends will leak. Then google Mark2, upgrade hotends to UM2, buyin 2 of all, then you can enjoy a dual system, but ofc since the firmware works for um2 screens you will need a um2 screen for 40-80€. Also you will need to change many parts and learn a lot. Is a fun travel, there's no easy way. Have fun!
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