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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Let me tell you 'bout my best friend He's my one boy cuddly toy, My up 'n down, my pride an joy Whether we're printing lots of stuff Or just having lots of fun...... Apologies to Harry Nilsson Ok,. this project actually started years ago. I first made this as a thing to show people doing what is called 'Match Moving'. It is just where you take a piece of camera footage and then mix in some 3D. Did it to show my students in the way back machine. You can view it here. Open the door, get on the floor Everybody walk the dinosaur...... Then, the school I taught at was just getting into 3D printing. I mean way back when the makerbot first came out. So, that gives you an idea of how long ago. Anyway, I decided to take the animation for the Allosaurus and 'freeze' a frame of it walking to make a mesh. Long story short, they were not up to the task to print it. And, I did not have a voxel sculpting program at the time and Mudbox was not good enough to really make it work. Flash forward a millenia later and here we are finally realizing the actual idea. This image shows the Allosaurus in the S5. I maxed out the build space by angling the tail to the bottom, left, back corner and the head to the top, upper, right corner. This gave a final tail to snout length of 19.5 inches (495.3 mm). It took 6 days to print. You can see that I built a scaffold of TPLA to use so that I did not eat up too much PVA. The Dino is in UM White TPLA and I love that stuff. It printed like a dream. And, nowhere near as fragile as regular PLA. The Juvenile Brachiosaurus goes with this as well as it is part of a larger, 1 meter diorama of Jurassic Drama ? The scaffold did not have to look pretty and made it only one wall thick and very little infill. At this size, trying to use not too much of the materials at hand becomes a must. This is the full length shot once I got the PVA and scaffold off it. Sadly, the Dino is a newborn and piddled a little bit when shooting pics......He got excited too ? This was the only place to see any sort of layer lines in this print. The teeth are not much bigger than the letters on a USD Quarter......Mmmmmmm,. George Washington makes good eats ? Nom nom nom..... Looka dat eye folk!! Zowie kapowie!! No layer lines anywhere else on this one though. I am so thrilled that I do not have to worry about this and can just go straight to painting on this beastie.... ? Just a few super tiny strings here and there that I can hit with a heat gun and they will all be gone. Most of that is just very sparse. I was impressed that the S5 could hold the detail on such a large object. Now to just get the rest of the Diorama put together. I have juvenile Stegosaurii , cicads and Siderops and all sorts of other goodies to go in this thing. And, the TPLA is really, really nice to print with. Just basic settings at 0.1mm ;ayer height with things changed like supports and stuff. All real print settings did not get changed. But for now, I was just so happy to get this done ?
  2. 2 points
    Hi and welcome to the forum. First off lets be clear I am not from Ultimaker team. Anyway, lets also correct what you mentioned, Ultimaker had a filament runOut Sensor on UM3 but as @SandervG said they found that its reliability is not up to their standard and scrapped that idea for UM3. Community is more than welcome to reuse the existing cable on the extruder as it is still there. Got my UM3 a month ago and found that cable to still exist. Anyway, @foehnsturm started a thread To work on a filament flow sensor (and possibly runOut sensor) for UM2 and hoping maybe for UM3. But this is nowhere finish, I myself am attempting to see if I can recycle the existing code for the UM3 to use foehnsturm sensor. But I do this for a hobby and have a day job as well as kids so it might take me some time.
  3. 1 point
    I'm very impressed with Breakaway. I've done around 10 days of intensive printing of items which have all needed support. I would say that Breakaway has indeed come away 95% completely at the first attempt, while the remaining 5% has pretty well all come away with a bit of fine tweezer work. In about a third of the cases, some strands still get left which need some very careful work to remove. Compared with PVA, Breakaway is a joy to use. .... and it's a vast improvement on what you can hope to get with scaffolding produced by a single nozzle machine. There have been a couple of times when Breakaway did not bind cleanly to the print bed when starting a new job immediately following the removal of the previous one. I ended up doing a material change and then clipping off 10 cm or so of the Breakaway filament before re-feeding it into the system. This worked for me, though I don't know if there's any genuine rationale behind my "solution". Obviously, PVA is still going to be needed when handling sensitive internal structures and, since removing Breakaway involves a certain amount of force, I wouldn't want to use if when supporting particularly delicate structures. Having been so positive about Breakaway, are there problems around it? Will it continue to perform well after sitting around for some months?
  4. 1 point
    Could you post your .curaproject.3mf file and I would be happy to look at your setup. To make sure you get the right file format, use save project and not the regular save. The .curaproject.3mf file will have all your settings and the model plus its location and such.
  5. 1 point
    Does the AppImage have a Toolbox menu? In 3.4, the plugin browser was renamed to Toolbox. The curaplugin file should be compatible with Cura 3.3 (the PPA), but you are using it in the wrong way. Remove it from the local/share/cura/plugins folder, and instead drag and drop it in the Cuar window. It will then be extracted to the correct folder. Note that this will not work with Cura 3.4, because that requires a .curapackage file. Finally, realise that freeCAD needs to be installed as well as the plugin.
  6. 1 point
    Nice designs! Look awesome. I havent done any hard edge stuff in ages!
  7. 1 point
    Space Cars! Designed for wings up for parking and wings out for flying..... Not as smooth as I would have liked. But it was super cheap filament and layer lines do tend to show more on slanted surfaces. This was done a little while back when I was just starting to really to try and lock down my settings too. Just now thought about posting them.
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for sharing, looks amazing. Looking forward on those weird printing stuff and post processing. I still cant get over Batty ? Now I wish I have an S5 ?
  9. 1 point
    That can be a bit frustrating. But increasing temp 260C at that low speed of 30mm/s could potentially cause heat creep like @kmanstudios mentioned. But if Printing at 210-220C with 40-60mm/s still causes jams for HTPLA then something is not right, not to mentioned swapping cores also present the same problem. Does the extruder skip steps every now and then before it finally jams or its completely fine until if stops with jam? I am not suppose to say it but that isolates to the material or there is something wrong with your UM3 but highly unlikely considering you print PLA just fine. I could be wrong tho I am no expert. I wish I have those material and test for you. Maybe other members can chime in. If no other reply try to reach out to support and point to this thread. I really hope you can sort this one out, I can feel your pain. (I've had similar experience and its not a pleasant one for me nor the printer ? ) EDIT: I am not sure if UM Support can help on 3rd party material but I hope they point you on the right direction. Please let us know. Its like a fish-bone stuck in my throat, cant get it off and not even the one that have the issue.
  10. 1 point
    Yes, just go to the configuration overview screen (second icon on the left) and tap onto the material in question. Then select 'change'. The swap routine makes sure you will continue on the spot in the gcode but it might result in a plastic spot on the print.
  11. 1 point
    I have 0 derlin experience printing it and only use them for bushing and spacers ? they seem to be slippery than most material. Anyway for the adhesion sheet, I too had that bubble issue but I found the wet or soapy water method works but only if you squeeze all the water out. Else the water will evaporate and cause bubbles even at 60C more so on a 95C. Basically I wet the glass with soapy water then squeeze like crazy with the blue rubber tool. Since then I never had bubbles on the adhesion sheet, CPE+ likes it a lot so I live it there even printing PLA. As for buildtak and similar I used them before but found that they dont like other material like PET and CPE to be more precise they like each other so much they dont want to separate :D. Interesting Derlin project would love to hear more about that.
  12. 1 point
    you can note down the settings somewhere and then if you wish to revert back to the original you can copy them back, however two v6's plus titans i guess you will be pulling much weight, maybe you need 8mm rods then, hope this helps :)
  13. 1 point
    ...so if I may give you a suggestion, let IT personnel do their job and implement an easier way to set and protect a static IP in the firmware. Nothing wrong with the SSH and connman for me, but somebody with less linux experience could be in trouble and normally people dealing with design are not linux experts (nobody is questioning why you use connman instead of /etc/network/interfaces so please do not question why we prefer to have printers on static IPs outside the DHCP area). Here the full guide for anybody who might need it: 1. on the printer panel enable developer mode (printer restart needed) 2. SSH to the printer (default credentials would be root/ultimaker) 3. $ connmanctl services and note the name of the interface that must be configured (remember: the machine has 2 network interfaces): from now on that will be the <service> (no "<" or ">" needed, just the service/interface name which will look like ethernet_<MAC_ADDR>_cable for the wired one, the other one I didn't have time to check ) 4. $ connmanctl config <service> --ipv4 manual <IP address> <netmask> <gateway> at this point the SSH connection will be broken because the printer switches immediately to the new IP so verify if everything went fine and 5. on the printer panel disable developer mode just in case you want to re-enable DHCP the command is: $ connmanctl config <service> --ipv4 dhcp
  14. 1 point
    Results before and after "acetoning". These are just old scrap pieces, which I kept around for testing. Material is colorFabb PLA/PHA, Dutch Orange. Printed with 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer height, 50mm/s, 210°C, 100% filled, on UM2. The visible part of the model is ca. 70mm long, 10mm wide, 3mm high. The green pieces are silicone casts of it, as they show some irregularities better than the original models. While the seam lines are still visible in the silicone-treated part, they are almost "unfeelable": it feels way smoother than the untreated part. All little openings due to minor underextrusion are completely sealed, which is best visible in the silicone casts. Text is gently rounded. Text caps height is ca. 5mm, raised 0.2 or 0.3mm (I don't exactly remember). I did a few treatments of brushing on acetone, and let it dry inbetween. (Next time I will try one thorough treatment, instead of multiple short ones, to see if that gives any difference.) There was whitening indeed, but that was only superficial and could easily be brushed off with a hand brush, while the model was still somewhat soft. It has to be a soft brush, since a hard nylon brush caused scratches. And it should be a soft brush that does not melt in contact with acetone. :) I guess that the whitening is caused by additives that are dislodged or broken down, and that get deposited on the surface? There are no signs of warping. Immediately after treatment I could push my fingernail about 0.5mm deep into the model, while it was soft. But now it feels hard like original. Anyway, I am glad with the results: if I take care to print more carefull (slower, lesser layer height), this will make silicone casts a lot easier and better. Thanks to cloakfiend for the research on acetoning.
  15. 1 point
    Both properly displaying the MAC addresses of both interfaces and the requests for static IP's are on our backlog. Not displaying the MAC addresses has indeed been an oversight that we are looking to fix quickly, but I'm not sure it can be worked in before our next release, so no promises. With most users so far we have been able to find a workaround for the static IP's, so this has not been a top priority for us before. However, we are getting a lot of requests (not only on these forums) for supporting more network configurations and are actively looking to build support for those configurations. It is on our backlog, but I can not promise you guys a timeframe for now.
  16. 1 point
    Ich glaub nichts das dass für andere Drucker außer Ultimaker Drucker funktioniert. (Über Cura) Siehe Drucker Einstellungen (Geräteeinstellungen, End G-Code)
  17. 1 point
    I decided to take the challenge, and to design a set of people myself. :) However, when it comes to ultrafine details and lots of variation, there is no way we can beat the Preiser models with our FDM-printers and standard 0.4mm nozzles. So I didn't try that. If you want realistic, finely detailed models, the best option is to buy unpainted Preiser sets: this gives you about 100 little people for about 30 euro. Google for: preiser ho figuren Instead, I decided to take a totally different approach and optimise my set for 3D-printing, so it can be printed easily and fast. I designed it in harmony with the cars already shown in the previous contest. Thus my people are a bit abstract and cartoonesque, but they do fit-in well with the cars. They are sort of cardboard-people, "Cardboardians", living in the country New Cardboardia, which is nearby Tsunamia, Quakeland, and Volcanostan. Scale is ca. 1:100, as requested. But by slightly varying this, you would get more variation. The biggest advantage is that these people can be printed on their back, so they print way cleaner than "upright people", and way faster. After printing, they can easily be broken off the support bar which helps making printing easier. They require very little post-processing. They can be printed without warping, and without damaging while removing them, if printed in PLA using my salt method for bonding, I tried it. Other bonding methods should work too, but you may need to be carefull not to damage them when removing them. If you don't want to glue these people to your architectural model, you could glue them on a transparent piece of plastic (mica or similar) of ca. 10mm x 10mm, like Preiser does with most of its painted models. Then you can move them around and recycle them for the next project. The transparent base does not visually hurt. I recommend printing at 0.1mm layer-height, speed 20...25mm/s, and at a low-medium temperature. All can be printed with a standard 0.4mm nozzle, since all legs and arms are wider than 0.4mm. See the photos of upright printed people compared to my cardboardians below. The upright model is not my design, but downloaded from thingiverse, named "Elf girl", designed by Robyn, daughter of "southoz"; if I have all that info correctly. Actually this Elf Girl is a very nice design, and 3D-printing it in scale 1:10 (17mm) does not do justice to it. The red elf girl is printed with 4 together, plus a dummy cooling block of 10mm x 10mm x 20mm, at very low speed (20mm/s) and low temperature (180°C) in PLA. The green one at the left is also printed with 4 together, slow, with dummy block, but at normal temp (210°C). The blobby one is printed standalone at normal temp (210°C), without dummy cooling block, and slow; but it obviously had not enough cooling and is hardly recognisable. And the last Elf Girl is printed single too, slow, but at low temp (180°C). The cardboardians are printed slow (25mm/s) at medium temp (ca. 200°C). You can see that upright printed people look like zombies, where pieces of rotten flesh are coming off (strings and blobs). Or they look like aliens in space suits (not enough cooling). Not like humans. This weirdness might hurt in an architectural model. My cardboardians however, look way more neutral and unobtrusive. Even though the designs are crude and cartoonesque, they come out cleaner when printed. And they are similar to the cars, and to typical vegetation. So there is more harmony in the scene. The set contains several men, women, and kids. Most are unique, but a few of the neutral models have duplicates. (The additional bonus set was my first try, containing 8 identical people and thus not conform the rules, outside of the competition. But since I have it anyway, I can as well share it.) The models are under a Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license: you can use them for free, for whatever purpose, thus also for commercial projects (for example an architectural design for a client, or for publishing on the Ultimaker website). But you can not ask money for the design files: these have to stay free. You may make modifications and derivations too, but if you share them, it also has to be for free under the same license. cardboardians_set.stl cardboardians_bonus.stl Set of cardbordian people, scale ca. 1:100. Bonus set (outside of contest). Beautiful Elf Girl, by Robyn (downloaded from thingiverse), for comparison in print tests. Cardbordians as printed. I removed a couple of thin hairs, but no other post-processing. Elf Girl (printed upright) vs. Cardboardian people (printed on their back). See body text above for more info on printing parameters. Preiser HO-scale people (=1:87, close to 1:100). But they also exist in other scales. In case you need really detailed people, and a huge amound of variation...
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